Peter Vaughan Truslow

Recently got a P44 pro and when empty, I was seeing random write speeds as high as 1857MB/S with 4K Q8T8 in crystaldiskmark 6. after a few hours of messing around, and with the drive 20% full and being used as the boot drive, random write speeds for every queue and thread profile supported by crystaldiskmark 6 and 8 both top out at just around 176MB/S, including the Q8T8 profile that previously was 10x faster than that. I’ve tried trim, I’ve tried the solidigm and microsoft NVME drivers, tried rebooting many times, and even removed the other NVME drive from this machine with both the microsoft and solidigm drivers managing the lone NVME boot drive all to no avail. has anyone else seen any behavior like this? I bought this drive after the praise it got in Wendell’s video with the synergy toolkit enabling features like “fast lane” but I can’t even enable that feature anyways (with the solidigm or microsoft NVME driver) It still seems faster than my old HP EX920, but after seeing the blazing speeds last night, It’s kinda sad it has settled into 1/10th the performance in some test profiles.

I have a Tripp-Lite Omni900LCD, in the older style that was more square, though I doubt they are very different. The battery is in good condition and dips only to 13.3V under the mild load. The UPS is not overloaded, the machine powering it draws under 100w average and peaks around 200w. About a week ago it started going into battery mode for about a second, as though a self test had been initiated. I have the unit connected to homeassistant via NUT so I can see the battery voltage dip, then climb to 14v, then return to float at 13.5v. When the unit does this, it does not beep, but I do hear the relays clicking. alarms are not silenced. If I manually initiate a self test either from PowerAlert Local or the front panel, it does beep when self testing. Maybe I will point one of my security cameras at it and hopefully capture what the display shows next time it happens. There is no pattern to it. sometimes it is as often as 2 hours apart, or as many as 20 hours apart. input voltage across the same window is as low as 117V and as high as 122V, depending on the time of day. Does anyone have any idea what is happening, and if I can do anything about it? If it's toast it's no great loss to me, It's my smallest and wimpiest UPS but it's protected my media server well enough for several years.

what you use is up to you, I can confirm though that it works perfectly fine with an old red straight sata cable I have with loads of clearance. straight sata power cables should also be fine, but I haven't verified.

more notes: if you do right angle cables like me, don't hot glue in the bottom one before installing it in the case, it will get in the way. the sata power cable was custom modified by removing the two sata connectors on the end by removing the covers and pulling out the wires. I also stole two straight through punchdown connectors from a dell PSU Then they were reinstalled with one before and 3 after the first original connector on the cable. I laid out the position on the frame with some slack, then punched down the wires with a flat blade screwdriver and then a small allen head bit on a screwdriver with the connectors against a table. I also stripped out the 3.3V wire to avoid WD white label/shucked drive issues (or any drive that uses SATA power disable on pin 3 of the power connector) make sure you get the position right the first time, as removing and reinstalling will leave cuts in the insulation which is not ideal.

TLDR at the top: 3d print it yourself. I'll cut to the chase. It's all available here. the correct extension to order is included in the post on printables. print out of ABS or PETG if you can. A few months ago I discussed on reddit how Fractal design should make an add-on backplane for the define R5, since it is still a go-to entry-mid level home server case. I contemplated doing a PCB design myself, but decided to see if I could find some off the shelf hardware to 3d print a bracket for to make it work. I settled on this extension initially, but only bought one. I decided on This one instead since the cost per was less. They seem to be exactly the same, or close enough, but my final fitting adjustments were based around the 2 pack. I found lots of sellers on aliexpress that carry them, but figured a few extra dollars was worth getting it this week rather than in two months. The extensions mount to the frame with #4-40 machine screws and nuts. M3 should fit but would be tight, M2.5 would probably be better. The extensions are modified slightly, using a knife to scrape off the two tabs in the power section and one in the data section where it interfaces with the drive. This is unnecessary but reduces the insertion force and force needed to remove a drive, which I prefer, since the drive sleds already hold the drives positively inserted. The backplane frame snaps into the cutouts in the sides of the drive cage where the rails for the drive sleds end, and seems rigid enough. I wanted screws, but there aren't many options without modifying the cage. I wanted to avoid adding holes to the cage, since this would be hard to reproduce accurately. The drives must be mounted to the cage where the end of the drive is almost flush with the end of the cage. This means that the front and middle screws are used, which is not ideal for high capacity WD drives that don't have middle screws. There are 3d printed extensions for the drive sleds that are a friction fit and address this issue. The clearance on the backside of the backplane frame is huge. Easily enough for fitting any kind of sata cable or sata power cable, no need for right angles. SATA cables without the lock are ideal, since they use the bumps for retention, which is the only option as these extensions don't have anywhere for the clip to interface. In my case I didn't have enough cables of that type so I used hot glue to keep it in. Currently only the 5 drive cage has been done, but I might do the 3 drive section too. It looks like it should be straightforward to add that one. If anyone makes it for themself, please post your results.

as far as I know, it is still shipped by the seller to the buyer, but it offers protection for the buyer.

swappa is trustworthy. it's the safest place to buy and sell used phones, and they verify clean identifiers.

Nexus 5X is within your budget, and is probably the best option all around, but if you need more than 16GB of on device storage, you'll have to drop $400 for the 32GB model edit: as a@isle9 said, the Moto X pure is a great option, and I'd say it's be better overall than the nexus if you aren't into modding. also has a MicroSD slot which is a big plus in my opinion. available to ship immediately at B&H http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=1196054&gclid=Cj0KEQjw5Z63BRCLqqLtpc6dk7gBEiQA0OuhsAHYZI4CY20JDZn7E6FhLSQRSe1td3QBhLKSOP7bcPQaAuZk8P8HAQ&is=REG&ap=y&m=Y&c3api=1876%2C92051678882%2C&A=details&Q=

I haven't seen a good reason to upgrade in a while. my sandy bridge CPU is good enough for me.

why not get some automotive split loom while you're at it

this is normal. that extra space is used for wear leveling, firmware, and for swapping in when you have uncorrectable sectors. you have 512 GB of space, you just can't use it all right now, and it's to increase reliability dramatically.

I am a lover of the samsung drives, I have 2 840 evos personally, and 4 in my household. I haven't had any failures with my OCZ drives, but I wouldn't trust it with anything important.

*nods in approval still would recommend a better SSD like an 850 evo, but for the most part it's not bad. also you should probably pick up a newer hard drive, as old laptop drives are prone to failure, and not in a graceful way

I disagree. you spend every moment of your computing experience interacting with the monitor. no $1500 rig should run at 1080p IMO. I would rather have a $500 monitor and a $400 computer than a $700 computer and a $200 monitor.

my $0.02 is that you should be spending more money on the parts that will make your computer a joy to use whether gaming or browsing forums. a good monitor, keyboard, and mouse will do a lot more for you than a $300 Motherboard, (a $125 mobo would be fine) don't do crossfire. when you need more performance, sell your current GPU and buy the best you can. crossfire is unnecessarily noisy and sucks power, not to mention relying on support of crossfire with that title.

try both in the same memory channel. both on the right 2, and then both on the left 2 slots. if this works, run in the same channel. technically it will cut your memory bandwidth in half, but usually you already have more than you need, and i'd be suprised if it made any noticable impact on real world performance Good Luck!

determine which stick it doesn't boot with if they all work, determine which slot or slots don't work. chances are, it will be one of the 2. if you have dead sticks, RMA ram, usuallythey carry a very long warranty that isn't a hassle to deal with. if it's a dead slot, could be the motherboard or a dead/wonky channel on the CPU's memory controler. process of elimination until you find the specific culprit

a used 2600k for $200 is a little bit steep, but if you could get it for $150 it'd be well worth it. the system I just built is using an old i5-2400 and it's pretty awesome. significantly faster than a new I3, which would have a similar price to what I paid

try booting with each stick of RAM independently

850 will still be enough if you want to go overkill, the HX1000i isn't too expensive, and it is very power efficient available here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139082

850W should be plenty, 750 would still probably be okay, but a bit too close for my liking Nvidia's recommendation for 1 is 600W, and it's 250 W TDP, so 600+250 for the second card=850

probably KODI but I don't know. I just use Windows Media Center because it is able to handle Cablecard receivers in a decently streamlined manner

yes, that is perfectly normal. both of my H50s do the same.

if it's according to the same standard, which it is, it should work, but it isn't guaranteed by the manufacturer. I have not once checked the QVL before buying RAM, and have never had it not work. I don't think DDR4 would be different in that flexibility

it's pre-filled, you don't need to and shouldn't try to add any fluid to it.