SubLimation7

I have always suspected he runs off of greed... Now it is confirmed.

I didn't realize fixing problems accordingly was doing the same thing over and over. 1. Issue with 2080ti, rmad assuming bad card 2. Issues popping up pointing to failing PSU, computer not booting, low voltage on gpu, raid array breaking, proceeded to upgrade power supply (also providing a great platform for future upgrades) upgraded to a good m.2 drive, he needed more space anyway. Kept the 3 ssds but now non raid. This fixed all of the problems except GPU performance. 3. This is where I start getting super frustrated, still low voltage on GPU so at this point I'm assuming motherboard despite rest of the system being perfectly stable, but put in my personal rig just to test, and still low voltage... But thanks for your input.

Yeah Im sure it isnt bad design either, but wth... If this 4th card doesn't fix I'm gonna go crazy. Sticking next one straight in my PC to make sure somehow in some crazy way his isn't breaking them. Feel like he should get half off at this point, imagine buying a car, sending back to dealer 3 different times, and keep having same issue lmao, top of the line car at that. Everything else is perfectly stable in his system, and lots of noctua fans for airflow...

Irrelevant, doesnt matter if i just stress gpu or 100% load on cpu. Also, I just put in my personal PC (evga supernova 1000 platinum, 8700k) same crap... and Im on older driver Wow EVGA, way to lose my trust.

Sooo... asus z170a 6700k superflower 1000w titanium rated power supply evga 2080ti black edition (3rd card) My friend's pc that I built a while back, high end system but we budgeted on gpu at first (rx480), never had issues with that card, but he was also using a rosewill gold rated 800 watt psu at the time, which we purchased after a corsair one crapped out. So he decided to go big on GPU, and bought a 2080ti... but was having lots of stuttering and occasionally PC wouldn't boot, and then finally wouldnt boot at all. So I suggested to RMA card and get a new power supply just to be safe and get a good platform to build on, so we got that and installed it, booted up but 1 of his hard drives didn't like the raid 0 array anymore. So I suggested get an m.2 drive (got whatever the lastest samsung one is with a + behind it) and system booted fine, did a fresh install of windows 10, updated bios, fresh drivers. Sent him on his way, calls me "hey man still getting stuttering". So he finally got it over, and his GPU voltage is tanking, under load it settles in at .77-.78v , it should be at around 1.05, also boost clocks are all over the place (as low as 1300mhz sometimes) , maxing voltage slider does nothing in x1, power target does nothing, temps are great, staying under 60c, and ALL other voltage is stable in the system, and keep in mind we got a really high end power supply and still having the issue. Notes I forgot: Tried both PCIE slots, same results, in 1st slot its x16, 2nd slot x8, both configurations have the same voltage problem. THIS IS THE THIRD CARD EVGA HAS GIVEN US UNDER RMA!!!! Attaching a screenshot of voltage.

Thanks, that is certainly helpful. I will be ordering it!

Hello again everyone! I am hoping that someone on here has a bit of insider knowledge regarding monitor industry. I'm ready to buy a new monitor, I've been waiting for 4k, 144hz, proper HDR, etc. The PG27UQ has this, and now that price has dropped I'm ready to purchase. However, I am a little scared ASUS will throw out a new version of this monitor soonish that uses displayport 2.0 so that it can achieve 10 bit 144hz 4:4:4 with HDR enabled, right now it has to drop to 98hz because of DP 1.4's bandwidth limitation. So heres some things I'm curious about: Would it be reasonably possible (comfortable opening up and soldering some stuff) to replace dp module and upgrading to 2.0 later? Would a short fiber optic dp 1.4 be able to get the refresh rate any higher without sacrificing chroma or bit depth? (Or any mod at all I could do down the road to get full potential out of monitor) Should I wait for something new to come out that supports DP 2.0 (if you think it will be 6+ months I think I'd rather just get this monitor), just cant help but think ASUS will prepare a new version of this monitor with DP2.0 for holiday season. Really appreciate anyones help/advice!

So Im not happy with optical, lose a lot of detail compared to 3.5mm, my gf even notices. So 3.5mm run without compromising sound quality?? So apparently you can go pretty far with 3.5mm, Im just gonna try these for now. https://www.amazon.com/SHD-Auxiliary-Premium-Shielded-Connectors-50Feet/dp/B077XPQS22/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1544662006&sr=8-3&keywords=50ft+3.5mm I will update with results.

Thanks for all of the suggestions, I have a steam link and it works fairly well but not quite what I'm looking for. Seems like this is a great solution for HDMI, even their 100ft option supports 4k 60hz 4:4:4(HDR): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072M73NY9/ref=twister_B071ZRZYQC?_encoding=UTF8&th=1 So that leaves USB, which I would need to hook up xbox wireless adapter, corsair wireless adapter, and Logitech wireless adapter (lol), oh and a yeti mic... So far I'm looking at something like https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Extension-Repeater-PlayStation-Keyboard/dp/B0081LNQR4/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1544639780&sr=8-20&keywords=powered+usb+cable but adding a powered hub to it at the end; https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Port-USB-Power-Adapter/dp/B00DQFGJR4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1544639893&sr=8-4&keywords=powered+usb+hub And lastly would be audio, I use a creative ae5 sound card hooked to the Logitech thx 5.1 sound system. This may be one area where I have to slightly compromise unless someone has ideas, I would love to just run long 3.5mm cables but seems like that's a bad idea, do they have something that can carry said signal over a fiber or boosted cable? I haven't seen any great options, and messing with audio signal at all would make me unhappy. So I may just have to get an optical toslink cable, but I'm still a small bit worried about audio quality: https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Plated-Toslink-Digital-Optical/product-reviews/B00T6OVRK8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_paging_btm_2?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews&pageNumber=2 If anyone has better ideas I'm all ears.

Hello everyone! So, I really enjoy VR, but currently never play it because I have to move my PC everytime and it gets old. I really enjoy laying in bed with lapboard or controller gaming on 4k TV, so I want to preserve that experience but I also want to play VR without it being a hassle. In a perfect world I would just run cables from living room (VR) to bedroom (4k setup), but I don't think this is currently possible without huge drawbacks so here I am making sure no one has any ideas. I would have to run HDMI, usb hub, and 3.5mm audio so I can still make full use of sound system. I wouldn't mind adding a bit of latency if manageable, but I'd rather build a second computer before I give up much visual or audio quality. But I certainly would prefer not to build a second high end system, anything less would just frustrate me. So anyone know of any magic tricks lol?? Roughly a 60 ft run. Update 1: hdmi over fiber (4k ~50ft even 4:4:4, so im thinking 4:2:2 could go a bit further)

Posted this in troubleshooting, but got some views and no replies and this is probably a better place anyway. see this list for parts used Http://a.co/7aw66jP Hello everyone, been a while. But I just did a build for a friend, just did an identical one to it a few weeks ago except used (2) m.2 drives instead of the setup seen in list and that build had no issues. But anyway, build went fine, installed windows, installed storemi, installed updates, ran realbench for an hour no issues. Restarted a few times no problem, but then I shut it down and case fans dim a bit but stay running... I'll have to look closer when I get home to see how the fan controller works (this rosewill case comes with fan controller), but I don't believe it plugs into motherboard at all through usb or fan plug. Takes molex for power, which is plugged straight into perif slot on EVGA supernova platinum PSU. When I shut down computer you hear the power supply click when it shuts down and cpu fan stops running. But it seems like issue would have to be either with fan controller or power supply? Not gonna lie already didn't feel like doing this build was just doing it as a favor and with the holidays I really don't feel like troubleshooting. I have an extra rosewill fan controller from last identical build we no longer needed once I swapped to corsair fans, but if anyone has any idea where I should start first would be much appreciated.

see this list for parts used Http://a.co/7aw66jP Hello everyone, been a while. But I just did a build for a friend, just did an identical one to it a few weeks ago except used (2) m.2 drives instead of the setup seen in list and that build had no issues. But anyway, build went fine, installed windows, installed storemi, installed updates, ran realbench for an hour no issues. Restarted a few times no problem, but then I shut it down and case fans dim a bit but stay running... I'll have to look closer when I get home to see how the fan controller works (this rosewill case comes with fan controller), but I don't believe it plugs into motherboard at all through usb or fan plug. Takes molex for power, which is plugged straight into perif slot on EVGA supernova platinum PSU. When I shut down computer you hear the power supply click when it shuts down and cpu fan stops running. But it seems like issue would have to be either with fan controller or power supply? Not gonna lie already didn't feel like doing this build was just doing it as a favor and with the holidays I really don't feel like troubleshooting. I have an extra rosewill fan controller from last identical build we no longer needed once I swapped to corsair fans, but if anyone has any idea where I should start first would be much appreciated. P.S. This font seems quite large, but its on default so I guess I'll leave it alone.

Sorry to revive an old thread. But I was just crazy and over analytical when I first received the 6 series. I did some back and forth testing, the 6 series seriously outshines the 5 series. And after using it for a couple months now I am extremely happy with the purchase considering price.

Well idk but it works now, I'll take it. All I did was reseat heatsink, but after all of those issues I may still take the replacement. Not super happy with gpu temps or speed, but that memory though. 1ghz overclock on memory holding at 64c (thanks Arctic pads!) Also note that I pulled voltage all the way back to stock, didn't help at all when trying to push it. But unfortunately I had to pull the GPU oc pretty much off completely so its sitting at a flat 2k now, it would hang up my games. I assumed it was from the high mem oc but no matter how much I pulled memory back It would still hang so pulled gpu oc back and now all good. But since I already have replacement coming I'll probably use the new one and replace every thermal pad with Arctic pads not just vram. Sorry for the camera pic, was busy. Update: Apparently memory helps a ton on 1080ti's, I can bump ACO from 60% to 90% resolution modifier at 4k with everything maxed out and get mostly 60fps+ Also, shadow of war runs flawlessly now at 4k native, I had to settle with quite a bit lower res on other 1080ti.