Jump to content

csanders

Member
  • Posts

    34
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

About csanders

  • Birthday Feb 01, 1986

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    NC, USA
  • Occupation
    IT/AV Specialist

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen R5 1600 @ 3.8Ghz
  • Motherboard
    Asus Strix B350-F
  • RAM
    16GB G.Skill TridentZ RGB 3200 CL14
  • GPU
    Gigabyte GTX1060 6GB Windforce
  • Case
    NZXT S340
  • Storage
    250GB Samsung 850Evo, 1TB Samsung Spinpoint S3
  • PSU
    EVGA 650G3
  • Display(s)
    Samsung Syncmaster 2323
  • Cooling
    Deep Cool Captain ex 240
  • Mouse
    Razer Mamba 2012
  • Operating System
    Win 10 Pro

csanders's Achievements

  1. Not sure if this is the proper section to ask this in, but it seemed the closest. For a work project, I have an isolated "island" network with various hardware connected. Mostly AV equipment that is IP controlled from a control device on that network. Occasionally, I need to access this island network to troubleshoot problems. Typically, this would involve just connecting my laptop to a port on the switch for this system, and having at it. However, this network is physically located in a different building from my office. Our enterprise network team does not want to consolidate the equipment onto our primary network, primarily because this equipment does a lot of its communication via multicast and video streams are huge. I'm trying to find a cost-effective way to drop a dual-nic device on both the commodity network, and this island network to act as a "bridge". In theory, I could VNC, RDP, etc onto this "bridge" device and access the island that way. Right now, I'm at the proof-of-concept stage. If it works, I'll pitch it for scaling up to the numerous systems we have deployed. For this reason, I'm trying to go as inexpensive as possible. I'd considered a raspberry pi with an additional USB NIC, but I'm unsure if that would be reliable long-term without constant care and feeding. I'd also considered a small form factor PC with dual NICs, but I worry about cost. Any suggestions of an alternative, or would one of these likely be the best place to start?
  2. That's kinda what I was thinking, but wanted the sanity check. Any noticable real advantage to the 6600xt vs the 6600, assuming about a $50 price difference? I'm mostly seeing 6600s in the $150-175 range, and the XT seems to be closer to the $200-240 range here. Is it worth the 25% price increase, or would it even be noticable paired with an R5 1600?
  3. Just upgraded my PC, and my wife and I decided to pass my old rig down to her, rather than trying to sell off the used parts (as we probably wouldn't get more than a couple hundred dollars for it all anyway). She generally doesn't play particularly intensive games, and if she ever needs major horsepower, she could always use my rig. Really, we're looking to just have a second PC so that we can play a few co-op games together. The build as it currently sits is listed below. I sold my GTX1060 6GB before we decided to keep the rest of the PC, so really I just need to find a GPU that can handle 1080p at 75hz reliably with mostly modern games while paired with a R5 1600. I don't see us needing more than 1080p, as she'll likely spend a good portion of her gaming time streaming to her iPad or a TV in a different room via SteamLink. Anyway, I'd like to try to grab a GPU that could do 1080p at High on the average modern title, so that we have the option to scale graphics settings down to medium over the next couple of years if needed. We're fine with Used parts, and have seen lots of RX6600 cards in our area within our budget ($150-175). The same for 5700xt. Occasionally, we see a 6600xt sneak in close enough to our $200 cap that we could maybe stretch it. In Nvidia land, I see a handful of RTX2060 and GTX1080 units floating around near the $200 point. Do any of those seem like a frontrunner, assuming pricing is all about equal? Is the R5 1600 going to be enough of a bottleneck to choke out any of these? Budget (including currency): $200 USD (but would prefer closer to $150) Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Clipstudio Paint, Photoshop, 1080p gaming Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Current setup is as follows: Ryzen 5 1600 Asus b350 Gaming-F 16GB 3200Mhz DDR4 750W Corsair PSU 512 GB Samsung 850 EVO SSD
  4. Sorry, I meant used. And yeah, it's the x570. I'm finding them cheaper than any b550 locally.
  5. I've noticed a sudden influx of really cheap (sub-$80US) ASRock x570 Phantom Gaming 4 mobos hitting the market in my local and semi-local area lately. Conveniently, right when I'm in the market for a new board to pair with my R5 5600 and replace my aging B350 board. (I'm in the middle of a piecemeal upgrade.) Is there anything to be concerned about with this particular board? I don't see it specifically mentioned in the tier list, but the "Phantom 4" seems to be landing in the B-Tier. I'd think that would be fine to support a 5600.
  6. Hi guys, I've been tasked with helping my boss find a new headset for video chat meetings, etc. He's looking for something with a better mic than his 5-year old $25 Logitech set he grabbed from Walmart (not even a model number on them that I could find). In particular, he had a few requirements. 1- not earbud style 2- wireless preferred 3- Bluetooth is a bonus, as his laptop already has it and he has limited USB ports 4- stereo circumaural headset preferred, but supraaural is fine. Any suggestions?
  7. Don't mine Bitcoin directly. You can mine an altcoin and exchange it for Bitcoin if you like. I'm using Awesome Miner connected to MiningPoolHub currently. MiningPoolHub will let you mine various different coins, based on what's most profitable for your hardware, and will pay you in the coin of your choice. Personally, I'm using my GPU to mine Ether and Sia, and mining Monero with my CPU. MiningPoolHub is set to convert everything to Litecoin for my payouts, but I could set it for Bitcoin or Ether if I wanted. Only been using it for a couple of days (since NiceHash exploded), but it's doing well so far.
  8. NZXT S340 non-elite. There's plenty of room for all but the biggest cards in there. I've got about 3 inches between the end of my 1060 (dual fan) and the edge of my AIO's fan. My only hesitation would be trying to squeeze in a really big card plus a Res for a custom water loop.
  9. I just got mine a couple of weeks ago, and it's been going strong. 1. I have my R5 1600 clocked at 3.8 and my TridentZ 16GB clocked at 3200, it's been holding that steady for two weeks 24/7 through gaming when I'm home and mining while I'm at work. 2. It does not have onboard Wifi. You'd need either a PCI based Wifi card or a USB wifi adapter. 3. That depends more on your case than anything else. I'm using a Gigabyte 1060 and it's not sagging. 4. When I got the board, it was $100 plus a $20 mail in rebate. This seemed to be the best bang-for-the-buck B350 board I could find.
  10. 1- Holds my keyboard still. 2- Spongy for my wrists 3- nice "playmat" like space for when I move my keyboard to use my desk for other activities (I play Magic: the Gathering, and it's nice to have something soft so I don't ding cards when I'm working out online trades or putting decks together)
  11. I just pulled the trigger on some TridentZ RGB last night. I've been a G.Skill user for over a decade, and their stuff just works. In the two links you provided, you've shown two different speeds of RAM, so that could be part of your large price jump. Amazon.co.uk has the Corsair 3200 CL16 at 260£ where the TridentZ 3200 CL16 is 220£. Granted, I don't know any other UK sites, but if you can find matching speeds to compare prices with, I'd definitely go with the G.skill.
  12. This guy does a fair number of reviews of inexpensive mics and interfaces. Here's some coverage of the UMC-22. Check out some of his other stuff, as he has tons of samples. Really, for Discord/teamspeak... I'd probably go with a headset mic to help cut out background noise. A ModMic would be fantastic for that application, assuming you're already wearing headphones. Otherwise, just about any decent mic through a decent interface would be more than enough coverage and clarity. (alternatively, a Yeti or Snowball would do the job and be USB).
  13. Also, don't confuse the UMC-22 with the UM-2. Vastly different interface there. The UMC has the Midas preamps, where the UM has Behringer's old nasty preamps that are noisy as hell.
  14. https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UMC22-BEHRINGER-U-PHORIA/dp/B00FFIGZF6 Check around on youtube for some demos of it. There's even some examples of the Neewer mic you listed running through this and it doesn't sound half bad. If I may ask, what are you planning to use the mic for? Just voice-over/podcast type stuff, for instrument recording, for streaming, etc?
×