ehawkins2232

I've been running my 5800X for about six months now, and I've noticed that it hasn't been as cool and quiet as it should be. During startup and while playing games, the CPU fans really ramps up, even when the utilization is 20-30%. Even though the 5800x is a 95W chip, I feel that the cooler I have shouldn't be running at 1500rpm at low utilization.

Here are the specs of my machine:

CPU: Ryzen 5800x

CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S chromax.Black

Mobo: Gigabyte B550 Aorus Pro AC

GPU: EVGA FTW3 3060ti

RAM: 16GB Crucial Ballistix 3200MHz DDR4

PSU: Be Quiet Straight Power 11 850W Platinum

Storage: WD SN750 1TB m.2 SSD

Case: Phanteks Enthoo Pro Full ATX:

Fans: 2x 120mm (Front), 1x 120mm (Rear)

Windows: Latest Update of Windows 10

(All hardware running at stock speeds)

Here is a screenshot of HWMonitor on startup with no apps running  (note the Power Reporting Deviation, might be relevant)

I'm not sure what BIOS version I'm running right now, but I would be willing to update if an outdated version may be causing the issue.

I repasted the CPU a month ago but this did not remedy the issue (used included Noctua paste which is supposed to pair well with the cooler). I heard that with the underlying chiplet architecture of Zen you have to make sure the thermal paste covers the entire IHS, but the new paste didn't seem to make a difference.

Any suggestions or help with this issue would be greatly appreciated. 

2 minutes ago, aDoomGuy said:

It wont cause a problem but make sure you set the boot device to the M.2.

 

Wipe them by deleting partitions and creating new.

Alright thank you, I appreciate it. Just had to make sure.

So my current rig is now five years old (currently running Skylake) and now I'm upgrading everyone except the gpu (I'll stick with my 970 until I can grab something). 

With my new PC I will be using my WD M.2 drive as my boot drive, but I currently have two 500 GB Crucial SSDs in my rig. I want to use them both as secondary storage (probably for games and such), so I wanted to know the best way to reformat the drives for usage on the new PC. There is only a few sensitive files on the PC that will all fit on a flash drive, so there's no need to mirror over data from the old SSDs.

My plan right now is to build the new rig with the M.2 drive, use Windows media creation tool and set up windows, and then connect up the two secondary drives, then wipe those as well. I'm guessing my question is, will plugging in my new M.2 drive and my old SSD drive which both have OS installations cause a problem?

I have been experiencing frame drops in all of the steam games I have been playing recently (Dishonored, Deep Rock Galactic, and Skyrim). These frame drops occur in game and as a far as I can tell, there is no pattern to the drops. I did some research into disabling in-game overlays but that did not solve the problem. I don't believe this is a weak hardware issue as games like DRG have low recommended specs.

I ran the Unigine Heaven Benchmark I happened to have installed to see if the same problem occur. During the benchmark, I did notice occasional frame dips. Looking at MSI afterburner, these dips correspond with a drop in the GPU utilization. GPU is running at around 65-70 Degrees Celcius during the benchmark.

Here is my current rig (I was able to snag a 5800x so hopefully I can get a 3070 soon):

i5 6500

Hyper 212 EVO

MSI GTX 970

Gigabyte Z170-XP SLI ATX

16GB DDR4 2133

EVGA 650W G1 Gold

Crucial 512GB SSD + Crucial 525 GB SSD 

Enthoo Pro

Windows 10 64-Bit (latest update)

Latest Nvidia Drivers (Jan 7, 2021)

Unknown Bios Version (haven't updated since 2016)

I don't know if this could cause an issue, but both SSDs are almost full. However, they have been like this for a long time and it hasn't caused an issue in the past.

I'm also guessing frame drops can come from a multitude of sources, but any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

I'm looking to buy an X570 board to pair with my 5800X. I saw the MSI X570 "Gaming Plus" at a discount on Newegg ($149 after $20 off and $139 after $10 mail-in rebate- Link). However, I saw that it was ranked D tier and I was wondering if I would be better off getting another board around the $150 price range.

I will likely run at stock, but I'd like a quality motherboard anyways. I see that the ASRock X570 Phantom Gaming 4 (I hate these names) is around $150 on amazon right now and I believe its ranked B tier. 

Are either of these motherboards a good pairing with the 5800X, and is there any guarantee that the BIOS will be Ryzen 5000 ready? Thanks.

In the past, LTT has done some audio reviews here or there, with the most recent being the Sonos Arc. I think it would be really interesting to see their take on home theater audio set ups at different price points or different levels of surround sound. At each price they could have an off the shelf kit that includes everything or one that is bought from individual components (i.e. buying tower speakers, center channel, and the A/V receiver).

For example, they could build a 3.1, 5.1, 5.1.2, 7.1, etc. I don't know how much Linus is into home theater audio but I thought that would be really cool.

I recently purchased a Raspberry Pi 4 (4GB Model). I installed a new copy of Retropie software on the device and it booted perfectly to EmulationStation. I also bought a 3.5 inch touchscreen + case to use with the Pi (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WQW6H9S/). 

After following the steps outlined by the touchscreen manufacturer for it to work specifically with the retropie software, I was able to get the touchscreen to work (This touchscreen requires a driver to work through the GPIO pins rather than the HDMI out). However, retropie is boots to the terminal and gives the following message:

lvl0: Error creating SDL window!
Could not initialize OpenGL / GLES library
lvl0: Renderer failed to initialize!
lvl0: Window failed to initialize!

I did a complete wipe of the microSD card, reinstalled retropie, reinstalled the driver for the touchscreen to work, and the problem appeared again. Retropie does not seem to be playing along with the driver I installed for the touchscreen and I do not understand why. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I have been looking to upgrade on my current 2.1 setup. I have been looking into 5.1 setups, but the only problem is finding devices that support wireless surround speakers. I found a lot of simple 5.1 prepackaged systems that say 5.1, but most of them have a soundbar controlling the L/R/Center channels, and I was looking for something with separate floor-standing speakers for L/R and then a center channel speaker.

From my research I have found that Denon has their own "HEOS" wireless technology for surround speakers, but I was little confused on comparing their Denon Heos AVR vs their regular black box AVRs. Does the Heos AVR contain some wireless tech not found in the rest of the lineup, or is the Heos AVR just different by its appearance (with the single volume knob and no buttons) and control by app functionality? Additionally, I was looking around the Denon website for wired speakers for the L/R/Center, but I can only find wireless. Do they just expect you to use a different brand for wired front speakers, because I thought you are generally supposed to stay within one brand for speakers.

I also looked into Yamaha's MusicCast system with their MusicCast supported receiver and MusicCast 20 wireless speakers for the surround. Would it make sense to use a Yamaha RX-V585 AVR, wired Yamaha L/R/Center, wired Yamaha bass, and then dual MusicCast 20 for the surround?

19 minutes ago, Crunchy Dragon said:

This is definitely in the grey area, but take a look at the computer cases and see if you can pull a Windows 7 or 8 key off the sticker. Windows 10 will activate with those, but that is the closest you will get to a free Windows key(and it may not even work).

 

There's no real fully legitimate way to obtain a free Windows key.

I have tried this method in the past, and while I have had some success, I was looking for a more permanent solution. As you said, I guess that does not exist.

At my high school, I am conducting a project where I take old business computers, refurbish them, and then donate them to children in need in my area. Basically, my school is set up as a charity allowing the businesses to receive tax deductions on the donated computers, and then the children get the computers for free, so its a win win. 

I have been able to successfully source enough computers and parts to have enough functioning computers. However, most of these computers are running dated operating systems and I want to upgrade the computers all to windows 10. Since I don't want to give away computers with the watermark and the other minor issues that come with un-activated windows, I need a way to obtain Windows keys for free. I know Linux is an option for free operating systems, but for this case let's says Linux is out of the picture and I only use Windows 10.

Where would be the best places to source these free windows keys?

I recently built a new pc, and while playing certain games (Borderlands 2 and Supreme Commander 2), black screens occur often for a split second. Newer games such as the Witcher 3 (which is much harder to run) have no problem. These are the current specs of the machine:

Ryzen 5 3600x 

MSI Radeon 5700

16gb Crucial Ballistix 3200 DDR4 Ram

Evga G5 80+ Gold PSU 650 W

Asus x570-P Motherboard

1TB Samsung 860 Evo SSD

Hyper 212 Black Edition

Corsair 275R Case

Acer 144Hz Monitor

Windows 10 Home 64Bit

Not sure what version of the BIOS I'm running, whatever came on the motherboard

I was thinking that the age of the game might be a problem, but I am not entirely sure. What might cause black screens such as the one's I am experiencing?

I've been trying to install a copy of windows 7 on an old Optiplex machine. Each time I start it up, I get a system battery voltage is low warning. I found a video online that says to switch to ATA in the BIOS which I did. After doing that, I still get the warning, and when I press f1 to continue, the machine just beeps at me and accepts none of my inputs. 

Additionally, on a different computer, I plugged in a USB drive to install windows 7, and after reordering the boot sequence with the usb drive coming first, all I get is a blank screen with a blinking white bar in the upper left-hand corner. What would cause this issue? Is it a problem with the USB drive?

12 minutes ago, SenpaiKaplan said:

One of those is display, the other is webcam.

 

The main display cable is the one that's too short. I believe it is the one you mentioned first that you see.

Alright I'll give it a shot, thank you

9 minutes ago, SenpaiKaplan said:

9.9/10 chance the cable.

 

It sounds like somebody knocked the screen all the way back, yes? The big brains at Apple made the cable too short to allow the screen to rotate the degree the hinges can. This is a known issue with the 2015/2016 MacBook.

 

I love Apple, I really do, but this is one of those fluke products.

Ok just want to make sure we are talking about the same cable. There is are two cables I see inside. There is the one I see that extends from the bottom of the computer to behind the display:

 and there is another I see on ifixit this one which connects the cable above to the logic board:

Which cable would you say needs replacing?

My friend recently gave me his 12" macbook (2016) to see if I can fix. It is a display issue. A year ago someone had knocked into his screen, making it really flimsy past a certain point of opening. This is not a huge issue, but the more troubling issue is that display started to flicker recently, and now starts to show color bars and then goes to completely white when fully extended. I opened up the laptop using the ifixit guide to check to display cable, but nothing looks out of place. I want to buy a replacement display cable via ifixit, but I want to know if there is anything else I should try before buying the cable. Any suggestions?

48 minutes ago, Crunchy Dragon said:

Z87/Z97 is gonna be the easiest to find on the used market.

 

Asrock, Asus, and Gigabyte all make pretty good boards.

I guess I'll just look on ebay for one of those boards, thanks!

4 minutes ago, AskTJ said:

It isn't an overclockable chip so a H87 chipset will work, but I have a refurbished Z87 board and it works alright.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ASRock-Z87M-Extreme4-LGA-1150-Socket-H3-Intel-Z87-Motherboard-DDR3/132631976646?hash=item1ee17b5ac6:g:FboAAOSwPapbA7gX

I think I'll probably stay away from the z87/z97 chipsets because it's not a 4770k, so do you know any good h87/h97 mobos?

Today I just got a computer from a scrap yard for free, a Dell Optiplex 9020. I salvaged a Core i7-4770 and 8 Gb DDR3 Ram, and I want to use it to build a different computer. However, since LGA 1150 motherboards are on the older side, I'm not very familiar with the models, so I don't know what model would be a good one to choose. Thoughts?

Requirements:

-New or Used (I wouldn't mind buying used since I want to save money)

-Micro-ATX or ATX

9 minutes ago, Unimaginative Name said:

Tell him to try the usual troubleshooting steps:

1) Try to boot without GPU (if iGPU exists) and only one stick of ram (if possible), also have him try different dimm slots

2) Clear CMOS, just because

3) Try again.

 

If there are debug codes or debug leds on the board, use those as guides. All of this is to try to find the extent of the damage. Without extra hardware, it's hard to find damaged components at times. It's possible only the board is dead, it's also possible that the cpu is dead as well as a number of other things. 

Thx for the help, I appreciate it!

17 minutes ago, Princess Cadence said:

you should never ever unplug or plug PCI-e , DIMM, CPU or any thing.... even SATA Drives if your motherboard is still being powered on by the PSU, doing so can result in damaged hardware.

What should the next step be?

I am aware of that, but my friend was not. It's pretty obvious that it would cause damage. However, I am asking for suggestions that I can tell him over the phone ( I can't meet with him at the moment)

So a buddy of mine just called me, and told me that he was unplugging his editing PCs gpu (gtx 970) and swapping it with a gtx 1070ti, but he didn't turn of the PSU. Now he is attempting to turn back on the computer, but all that happens is his fans turn on for a second then turn off. I think it might be possible that he fried something inside the computer.

-I have limited knowledge of the specs, except the 2 gpus he swapped

-He is running Windows 10

- I do not have the time to look at the pc right now, but he tells me that there is no burning smell coming from the case.

I suggested he tried to at least get into the bios, but it seems the system doesn't even want to post. Any suggestions?

1 minute ago, herman mcpootis said:

you can replace it just fine. but other towers might not so you'll need to check if you're planning on those. the I/O connectors may be different as well so if you want a case upgrade check if any forum posts or manuals online say anything about the layout.

Sounds good, 1 more question. Do you have any tips for searching for the old desktops. ebay's filters really don't help b/c most hardware is listed as "unspecified". Do you think it'll be more effective just to search "Core i5 2nd Gen Desktop" or something like that?

6 minutes ago, herman mcpootis said:

yeah it's standard atx mounts.you'll have to check, standard tower prebuilts usually have normal PSU mounting holes but you'll need to check manually.

Checked the manual, it doesn't specify the power supply form factor but I found some forum posts about replacing the power supply that say it's atx.

24 minutes ago, herman mcpootis said:

the motherboard uses standard 24-pin and 4-pin psu connectors and is standatd MATX, but the I/O connectors look proprietary. you'll have to look up a manual online and figure it out manually if you want a case upgrade.

Ok I'm actually planning tomorrow to drive over to a used PC shop just to see what they have. But if they don't have anything, does this dell (and oem pcs in general) have standard mounting holes for an ATX psu? I assume they do if you can replace them