joser1813

10400f is pretty good value at its current price; you get performance on part with the R5 3600 for way less money, you could also go with cheaper ram since the motherboard doesn't reach 3200 MHz anyways. That AIO is pretty basic, bad and non needed. There're air coolers that look better for cheaper, the 10400f is 65W, even the incluided Intel stock cooler would be enought, if you get a better one is mostly for looks. Also the P360A from Phamteks is better if available.

Would you recommend any particular SSD test software? I know I can use memtest86 for the RAM

Tried to repair the Windows Installation without success. Wiped the drive and resintalled the Windows and now it works. That's a very weird issue, never happeneded to me before. It might be something to do with the fact that the SSD is used or a weird bug of the motherboard.

The SSD shows in the BIOS and you can even see the Windows Boot Manager but it doesn't start onto Windows 10 Pro. Computer was working just fine until I changed from an 8 GB Oloy RAM module to a pair of XPG D50s 8x2 GB. The motherboard is a Gigabyte H410M H, the CPU is 10100f. Everything seems fine on BIOS. I can boot from the Windows installation flashdrive and attemp to install Windows again but I'm not sure that's the issue here. The CMOS has been cleared using the jumper incluided. Does anyone knows what to do?

This is the cheapest new build you could go for. It would be ok for general task and very light gaming. The Athlon 3000G can be picked for $49 + shipping at Adorama or $66.99 at B&H so the total would be about $260. As other have mentioned, used is probably the way to go for 200, it doesn't hurt to have options though. PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Athlon 3000G 3.5 GHz Dual-Core Processor $103.93 @ Amazon Motherboard Biostar A320MH Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard $58.99 @ Newegg Memory G.Skill Aegis 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2400 CL17 Memory $41.98 @ Newegg Storage ADATA SU635 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $31.99 @ Amazon Case Rosewill SRM-01B MicroATX Mini Tower Case $27.99 @ Newegg Power Supply Thermaltake Smart Series 430 W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply $41.25 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $306.13 Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-03-29 23:23 EDT-0400

I started with only the 120 GB Dramless SSD and then upgrated to NVME. PSU is listed as Tier A on this list ([psucultists] PSU Tier List - Power Supplies - Linus Tech Tips).

I bought the 2700 when it was around $150, pretty good deal at the time, 3600 was just a but above my budget in the moment. I'm planning to go with 5600X next year, when hopefully prices return to normal. For the mean time, I'm getting by with an all core OC at 4 GHz.

PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 7 2700 3.2 GHz 8-Core Processor CPU Cooler be quiet! Dark Rock 4 CPU Cooler $69.90 @ Amazon Motherboard MSI B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard $138.94 @ Amazon Memory Team T-Force Delta RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory $90.00 @ Newegg Storage Team GX1 120 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $20.99 @ Newegg Storage Patriot VPN100 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $71.99 @ Newegg Storage Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $55.49 @ Newegg Video Card Gainward GeForce RTX 3060 12 GB Ghost Video Card Case be quiet! Pure Base 500DX ATX Mid Tower Case $109.99 @ Amazon Power Supply NZXT C 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply $119.99 @ Amazon Operating System Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit $139.88 @ Other World Computing Monitor AOC 24V2H 23.8" 1920x1080 75 Hz Monitor Monitor MSI Optix G241 23.8" 1920x1080 144 Hz Monitor $189.99 @ B&H Keyboard Redragon K551-RGB VARA Wired Standard Keyboard $49.99 @ Amazon Mouse Logitech G305 (Black) Wireless Optical Mouse $39.99 @ B&H Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $1097.14 Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-03-28 22:49 EDT-0400 Not the actual prices that I paid, those were autoregerated. What would you guys improve? Any comments?

My friend is planning to upgrade from i3 10100f to i5 11400 and he would like to know if the new 11th gen CPU would work on the 10th gen motherboard. The upgrade would be free since, his dad is the one paying for the new CPU.

I want to buy a pair of headsets. I'm not sure which one of these should I go for. I'm not in the USA, that's why I'm only considering the options listed below. I care about mic quality, decent materials and sound quality. LISTED FROM LOW TO HIGHER PRICE HYPERX CLOUD STINGER CORE RAZER KRAKEN X LITE 7.1 HYPERX CLOUD STINGER XBOX LOGITECH G332 CORSAIR HS35 HYPERX CLOUD STINGER

I'm from Costa Rica and basically all the SATA SSDs I can buy are DRAM less. I'm planning to get a 1 TB SSD, a cheap one, just to storage games. I already have a decent VP100 from Patriot as a boot drive. Would it be a good idea?

PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gnVcBc CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 2700 3.2 GHz 8-Core Processor CPU Cooler: be quiet! Dark Rock 4 CPU Cooler Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard Memory: Team T-Force Delta RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory Storage: Team GX1 120 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Patriot VPN100 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive Storage: Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: MSI Radeon RX 570 4 GB ARMOR OC Video Card Case: be quiet! Pure Base 500DX ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply: NZXT C 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-12-25 21:17 EST-0500 I think I managed to get an stable OC 4.0GHz @1,350V LLC Mode 2. I used AIDA 64 for over and hour to check for stability. I was reading different threads about OC and some people recommend to disable AMD CoolN'Quiet and Global C States. That's why I'm wondering what settings should I pay attention to when OCing. I've seen several Bulzzoid videos in which he also disables overcurrent protection settings. Is there a good article to read and learn about all this little details? I was reading this (AMD Ryzen (2000-Series) Overclocking Guide | TweakTown) but it doesn't go over everything I wanted to know

I'm going to buy a new GPU, haven't decided which one yet, but I'm looking at: 5700XT, 3060ti... It all will depend on pricing and availability. My current unit is a basic System Power U9 500W. It's fine for my current RX 570 but I simply want to upgrade to something solid. These are my options, I don't live in the USA, so will have to stick to these: BE QUIET! PURE POWER 11 CM 700W- 80 PLUS GOLD (~$104 USD) EVGA 750 GA SUPERNOVA MODULAR-GOLD (~$136USD) SEASONIC CORE GC-650 GOLD (~$80USD) There's a store that I believe sells the XPG Core Reactor ($120USD) but I'm not sure if it's still available.

Afterburner worked just fine. Thank you! Now I have a custom fan curve that actually works

Could I leave Radeon Software alone and it won't interfere with other fan controlling apps?

I have tried everything but it just doesn't work as I'm telling it to. Radeon settings ignore when I tell them what to do with a custom fan curve. It doesn't matter what I do.The software randomly report peaks of usage and 80% of VRAM usage when I don't have games open (only Spotify, 2 diff browsers, calculator and email on 2 monitors ). Is there any way I can set the settings how I want?

Yes, they are

I have one MSI 144 Hz and one AOC 75 Hz. First one is connected trought display port (eventhough it comes with a HDMI cable in the box), second one is using HDMI. Everything works fine until the displays go into sleep mode, when I move the mouse or press a key to awake the monitors, AMD drivers freak out and after a while it works but it somehow restarts some of the settings, like refresh rate to 60 Hz. Is there anything I can do to improve this situation?

I'm buying at my local store and these are my options for an NVME SSD with about 500 GB of capacity and also with DRAM buffer. The RGB one looks pretty good, however if I get significantly better performance from what of the others, I'd prefer that instead. I'm currently using a GX1 from Teamgroup which has no DRAM buffer and is only 120 GB. I also have the option to buy a Patriot Burst which is SATA and has 32 MB of DRAM buffer for quite a bit lower price. Which drive would you guys go for? PATRIOT VIPER VPN100 512GB (NVME) ADATA XPG SPECTRIX S40G RGB 512 GB (NVME) ADATA XPG GAMMIX S11 PRO 512 GB (NVME) PATRIOT BURST 480GB (SATA)

Update on the situation: it seems to be a driver issue. I did a clean install of the latest recommended driver 20.9.1 using DDU to uninstall the problematic driver 20.9.2 (this driver was a beta or optional one). Performance of the card improved somehow.

My PC was suffering of some artifacts and crashing (computer restart) in the recent days, the apparent cause was the 20.9.2 amd driver. I found a number of people reporting the same or a similar issue within the last week. I made a post about it. Anyway, I used DDU to erase the drivers and proceded with a clean install, the issue seems to be gone. I haven't had any crashes while testing with 3D mark Timespy, Timespy Extreme, Forza Horizon 4, Control, Dota 2... What I find interesting is that I got more performance out of no where, I was consistently averaging 72 FPS on the benchmark of Forza Horizon 4 and now, with the exact same setting I get 82 FPS on avg. Control seems to be performing better as well. How is this possible?

That's not my card, it's another person post with a similar issue this week

20.9.2 was an optional driver. I just used DDU and installed the last known stable driver (20.9.1). Lets see what happens. I wish AMD fixed their drivers for once, lets hope that was the cause. About OC settings, I never use them, I only made 1 profile for Horizon Zero Dawn and played some hours but that was it.

Searching in Google a little bit, it seems that it might be an issue related to the latest driver. There are 2 stories of people with the same issue or a very similar one, on Polaris GPUs. I have overclocked my GPU on a profile for certain demanding games: 1420 MHz on the core and 2100 MHz on the memory. The thing is, that I practically never use those settings, cuz my most played game is Dota 2, in which I don't need the OC at all. Could it be that the memory overheated when overclocking?

This has just started happening to me this week as well. It could be a driver issue, lets hope that's it. Otherwise, our GPUs are in their last days.