Jasongreat

Booting without the cooler attached I was getting the same results sadly. Next, I did try reseating the CPU and still nothing. I tried more combinations of sticks and different placements which led me to discover that all of my issues occurred when a specific 3600MHz stick was in. I tested that one specifically by itself and it booted. I tried again with 2 sticks and it booted as well. Note the second stick could be either the 3200 or the other 3600. Once I added a third it wouldn't work unless I swapped it with the unused one. I confirmed this by booting with the 3 other Corsair sticks plus an old Ripjaws stick I had, populating all the slots. At least now I know it is a bad stick rather than the whole board!

Hello all, my system has been having an issue today where it won't boot up unless I have no RAM stick in the first slot of my motherboard. When powering on I get stuck at a black screen, no BIOS splash screen or anything. The EZ Debug LED on my motherboard is lit up for the CPU section. When I take a stick out of the first slot it boots fine. I can boot with just a single stick in the first slot though. It is only when I add multiple that it starts acting up with one in the first slot. This first started last night when I went to turn off my computer. The screen had gone black and when I pressed the power button it instantly turned off instead of the normal Windows shutdown. My troubleshooting steps so far have been: Clearing CMOS Try each slot individually Try each ram stick individually Update BIOS Changing RAM frequency from auto to 2666 My specs are: Windows 11 Pro MAG B550 TOMAHAWK (Latest BIOS 7C91vAG) AMD 5900x 4x32GB Corsair Vengeance RGB RT running at 3200MHz I did mix two kits (I know not good but it has been working fine) They are a 2x32GB 3200 C16 and a 2x32GB 3600 C18 EVGA RTX 3080 10GB Samsung 980 Pro 2TB Boot drive Corsair HX 1000 Something I'm thinking it could be (but really hope isn't) is a bent pin on the CPU. I haven't had a chance to take it out and reseat it yet. It was bought second-hand off eBay, but it has been working fine for about 13 months at this point. Thanks for any help!!

I'll take a look at that thanks!

I don't know if the title exactly describes my question but what is the best way to sync an external drive with a local folder. I have a partition of my drive for school files and I want to automatically sync them with my local One Drive folder whenever it is connected so any changes in One Drive get copied over to the external and any changes on the external are copied to One Drive. If there is a tool or utility that can help with that would it also work across multiple machine so my desktop and laptop? Both running Windows 10.

I've actually been watching this thread for awhile and can say I have safely charged my s8+ with no problems with the 45 watt stealth charger. This site says that "The Razer Blade Stealth power adapter offers 5 volts @ 3 amps (15 watts), 12 volts @ 3 amps (36 watts), and 20 volts @ 2.25 amps (45 watts) power options" https://gtrusted.com/how-the-razer-blade-stealth-charges-with-its-power-adapter-using-usb-power-delivery

I currently use MoCA (Multimedia over Coax Alliance) which uses the coax cables in my house to extend my network instead of having to run new Ethernet to each room. If your two rooms both have coax then you could look into that for the internet at least. I can't remember if MoCA would interfere with an HDMI over coax signal or if you would be able to run both over coax and eliminate the 100ft Ethernet all together. http://www.mocainyourhouse.com/what-is-moca This website explanis what MoCA is and how it works better than I can.