Mendozacheers

Have you reinstalled the gpu drivers?

I always forget to list something that I have tried. Yes I have tried that

I made a video for easier explanation.

VIDEO

ISSUE:
Steam Big Picture does not work for my account. it appears to be an isolated issue.

SPECS:
Windows 10 Pro, upgraded from Windows 7 64-bit.
Intel Core i7 3770k (3.5Ghz Quad Core)
32GB DDR 3 Ram
Nvidia Geforce GTX 680 2GB
OS and Steam installed on Intel 520 series SSD 240GB (120GB free space)
Steam fresh installed
100 Games Installed

STEPS
Start Big Picure mode

EXPECTED
Big Picture should work

I have tried:
Restart the computer
Reinstall Steam

Opt into Steam Beta
On another computer
With alt. account
Waiting over an hour
Unplug every USB device
Flush registry files
Several more minor fixes from forums etc.

Update Graphics drivers

Been playing around with the Xbox App for Windows 10 for awhile. I am intrigued by the Game-DVR feature but so far you can only upload clips that are on the App store and have native support. For example "Minecraft: Windows 10 Edition Beta" and "Microsoft Solitaire Collection" works, as well as record Xbox One games being streamed over.

What I want to do is record non-native games and upload the clips, specifically games that Were Microsoft published (via Games for Windows Marketplace for example), like "Halo 2 for Windows Vista". It's no surprise Microsoft does not care by their old PC releases whatsoever. I don't expect native support will come for these titles, but I wonder if there's away to bypass the error message that appears when trying to upload a clip from a non-app store titles. This blockage is definitely here to prevent people to upload explicit content that is not related to the games.

I try to explain this as well as I can, to try and make a parable: The way you can upload custom images to the Steam Community via just putting the image in a particular map, the same thing but clips via Windows Xbox Apps Game-DVR function.

Any ideas?

This got to be a common issue, and I am sorry if there's a billion posts about it already. Tried searching "buzzing noise" and "coil whine", the later obv only gave a bunch of graphic card related issues.

I might even have posted this before. I looked for help a several months ago and found out that a "Ground Loop Isolator" would be one of the things to solve the issue. IT did reduce the buzzing with about 50%, which was good enough at the time. I now want this buzzing to disappear for good, and I had a customer yesterday that talked about something you could plug into the wall power jack to ground your audio equipment / computer. ?

I have an Asus Xonar DX and the drivers Should be the latest (been having issues with those too I might add). I could return the sound card and replace it with an exact copy (but I rather not go through that, should I?).

Thanks.

EDIT: It's only noticable through my speakers, and not through my headphones. Might be because the speakers are louder. They are plugged into the same jack in the sound card, the speakers works like a charm when plugged into anything else.

I have enjoyed Watch Dogs pretty much actually. I have been streaming it via In-Home Streaming on Steam, with a bit of a lag and a massive audio bug. Yet that have not stopped me from playing, and actually having a good time, with a controller too! Too bad my GTX 680 can't handle them ultra settings

So far I have been impressed by:

1. Hiding from the cops mechanic

2. Intelligent Cops and thungs following me

3. The online hacking mechanic

Not impressed by:

1. Frustrating being chased by the cops

2. Driving mechanic is worse than GTA IV

3.  No police on the water (easy escapes every time)

I tried playing some on my computer directly, and I must say that keyboard/mouse is to be preferred. I just want to show my roomates how much money I have spent, and how superior PC is I will play the game on Hard in my room once I have finished lollygagging in the living room.

Search for a "Ground loop isolator" (I dunno what store near you will have one).

Thanks, this reduced the noise significantly! Found one at the local electronic store for 20 bucks!

If you have a phone/mp3 player try that eighths speakers, willin to bet that it's the speakers.

I connect to them via bluetooth as well as 3,5mm cable, no static whatsoever

Get the community drivers

same issue.

So, I have had this sound card for about 9 months or so, and I seem to have encountered a few problems. First it was the small 4-pin molex connector that would refuse to connect with the card, the official Asus as well as the UNi drivers wouldn't work for months thanks to that. Even without the 4-pin, the audio card still worked, I eventually ended up forcing a cable-tie on there to hold it in place. Nevermind, this should be solved now.

I recently got a pair of new speakers, 40W each in stereo, and now I can hear a CLEAR static noise that is driving me NUTS. My old Creative Gigaworks T20 Series II never did this, at least not within my hearing. I have tried to use my on-board audio chip as well as through my display (hdmi through my Graphics card), and the problem is universal throughout all ports.... what is this?

The static reminds a lot of coil whine, because it fluctuates depending on what the computer is doing. When I scroll down pages, switch tabs etc, the noise changes to a different frequency. Could it be an unwanted current going through my computer components making this noise, maybe from the graphics card?

Thank you for helping me out!

EDIT: also, lowering the windows volume to 0 does not make it stop, which means the drivers are not the issue (?)

This is the WORST NEWS EVER.

I get it, and don't disagree on a lot of points, ultimately whether or not it is a benefit doesn't make it okay to take and use something you don't have permission for.

My real issue is with people who try to claim they aren't stealing when pirating.

 

Good we are on the same page

Yes, If you are over 20 years old and you still do not pay for games - Then please start doing so. I was without a job for 6 months, and yet still managed to maintain my gamer "affliction". Being over 20 and still pirating is bad, IMO pirating is for you to feel the deal. Kind of like porn: Eventually you will grow away from it (hopefully).

If you can't obtain a license properly don't use the product. It's that simple. Anything else is an excuse. There are plenty of other things to do. Stop being entitled thieves.

Edit: I was 15 once, I know what it's like. I was wrong then like you are wrong now.

If I never were an 'entitled thief' I would never have bought the games I have today, not all pirates stay pirates forever. In some cases pirating does not have to be bad. Like with me: pirating games made my hobby flourish in a time where any other hobby could've come into the picture and replaced it, if it weren't for the easy, cheap way of maintaining it.

250mbit/s?

 

Where in sweden is this and how high is the average rent!?

Norrköping. Not sure about the average rent, but ours are 9000:-/month, 4 rooms, 1 bathroom and 1 toilet. Bredbandsbolaget has "Bredband 250 plusfart" for 499:-/month. 

I think you should decide on who is going to be the one having to take out the trash......... the details of these arrangements always get overlooked.

Yes, this will get bad, and we will all hate each other. I have already overlooked this way too much.

If it werent for the warm confortable arms of piratebay when I grew up - I would NOT be the gamer I am today. In the age 10-16 I could not afford to buy games so I downloaded games like a maniac. I think I filled a 500GB HDD with ISOs, cracks and keygens.

Now, as soon as money started raining in I completely changed. From 18 years old and onwards, I have not downloaded a single game (unless the copy I legit purchased didn't work). I have in 4 years manage to repay what I stole by x4. The gaming market has profited from my 6 years as a pirate, and I am thankful for being able to pay legit today.

That router really isn't the best. There's some shocking reviews for it too. I'll let someone else recommend something. I would suggest something far higher end for 20 device connectivity.

 

250mbit/s down is plenty. It's rare you'd be hitting the 12MB/s level (100mbit/s) while downloading something.

Why would you need to limit the 100mbit/s upload? Do you plan to seed a ton of torrents/run a server or something?

Well, 20 devices was a stretch. 10 devices tops. I am a bit worried about the router now though, some say it's the best to get, that the Asus ones have had "issues" etc. I guess I will see (I already bought it, see).

Well, I am seeing myself streaming stuff, having a server and a home cloud. Seeing as 10 Mbit/s up and 100 Mbit/s up were the only options, I went for the 100 one.

2.1. Depends on alot of things, do your devices support ac and dual band. You should be fine though, if you place the router in the center of the house/apartment.

2.2. From what i have heard its okay, nothing special though. From my experience Asus has the best router UI.

2.3. You will proberly need a ethernet switch, which you can buy pretty cheap.

2.4. Qos is used to determent who gets what. With that you priorities traffic.

2.5. I would proberly take a look at Asus line up, i atlest really like them.

Thanks.

As for wireless coverage, it depends on the layout of the apartment, the contents of the walls and the strength of the router.

I once lived in a flat where my PC was 4m from our router, but there happened to be a bunch of electric conduits in the wall, so I was only barely getting a signal.

 

If you are planning to have LANs I would suggest you get a switch, so everyone can get a wired connection, as the ping increases quite notably through the wireless.

Also 250Mbit/s is probably enough, I have 100, and rarely use all of it, it mostly comes down to the servers I download stuff from.

Considering that you are 4 people, you may notice a difference from 100 to 250, as several people might try to download stuff simultaniously. If the price difference isn't too big, go with 250. How much do you pay for that anyway?

I envy you nordics and your internet...

Roger that, switch for LAN's

We are paying ~60€ for 250 down and 100 up.

Okay, so I could probably find all the information by searching for 1 question at a time, but I figured I would make a thread for them all to make it easier.

First of all, It's a 4 room apartment, with regular sized rooms (I don't know the exact area measured), we are going to be 3, maybe 4 people, sharing the same internet connection. We decided to go for 250 Mbit/s down and 100 Mbit/s up Fiber, since we are all pretty much used with 100 Mbit/s down before. The estimated amount of internet-enabled devices would be up to a 20 devices (5 computers, 4 mobile phones, 4 consoles, maybe a media center etc), These would not be on, using the internet at the same time obviously but still! I figured around 10 devices should be able to be online at the same time. We are also planning on having LAN's, with a lot of devices using the Local Network and not necessarily internet.

This is the router we chose.

Here are the questions:

1. Is 250 Mbit/s down good enough?

  1.1. Will we even notice it being slower if we are all used to 100 Mbit/s?

2. Is the router good enough?

  2.1. Will the WiFi be covering the entire apartment if it's located in the middle?

  2.2. Is this thing user-friendly? With opening ports, changing settings etc?

  2.3. Are the 4 wired ports going to be enough? do we need a hub?

  2.4. Can I somehow limit my roommates usage and re-direct most usage to my machine? Especially the 100 mbit/s up bandwidth.

  2.5. Is there anything negative about this router? All I have found has been positive.

  2.6. How well does it perform with a heavily used local network, for when we are having LANs? My last one made it lag for Everyone except the host.

3. Is this overkill?

So, I recently bought a very cheap home media drive, or whatever they are called. Simply a media center solution that you can set up to be a cloud. I got it for like 30 bucks, and it has a 1 TB drive in it. I figured that even if I didn't get the thing to work or w/e, I still had a 1 TB HDD to loot from it.

I can't however find the software for this thing. I have no idea if I am just being stupid, or if they simply does not exist for Windows 8. I don't have an optical drive in my PC, and even if I had, the included CD only comes with software supported up to windows XP or something.

The product itself is from Iomega, which appears to be bought up by lenovo. I can not find the product itself over at http://shop.lenovo.com/ . It's like they just wiped all previous product off the site. I just can't find the damn software to set this thing up... any help would be appreciated.

Product name: Iomega Home Media Network Drive 1TB "Cloud Edition", Model: HMND2. Closest I got to finding the drivers/software is here .

Thanks

Ugh, never mind, it's here, Ignore this post, lol.

I ordered the CM Storm Quickfire TK with Cherry MX Blue today. I usually don't do spontaneous purchases, but this one was just a instant buy for some reason. I have the 2012/old BlackWidow, non-tournament, for soon 2 years and I have really liked it so far. I just replaced my Deathadder with the Corsair Vengeance M65 Performance, which was a perfect transition I might add. I feel it's time to move away from Razer completely so the keyboard change was about time.

Anyway, I have a few requirements for my new keyboard, it has to be:

- Black, completely black

- Cherry MX Blue, nothing else

- Blue LED's and backlit, nothing else

- Braided cable

- Numpad

- Simple Design. Nothing more crazy than the BlackWidow.

In the end, not many keyboards were available for me without ordering overseas. 

So my question to this thread, to tie in with the OP. How does the transition between a BlackWidow and the CM Storm Quickfire TK play out? Are they very similar to the touch, sound? Are the keys positioned at the same places? How is that crazy numpad gonna work? Is the CM Storm software any good? Is the texture better than of the glossy pre-2013 BlackWidow?

Thanks.

You can replace the pads, or sock mod, but you are never getting the pads to not be rocks. 

Cloth/velour is usually good. Or buy real leather and take care of it.

Anywhere to get custom leather cups, specifically for the ATH-M50. I know I can just google it, but if there's a specific trustworthy site with good deals?

I have had a pair of ATH-M50 for about 6 months, I absolutely love them but the leather ear cuffs have gotten dried up, they are not soft to the touch anymore. I have only had cloth ear cuffs on my previous headsets and headphones - So I don't really know how leather become. I just purchased a pair of new cuffs for them and they are soft again, I want to know how to prevent them from drying up again, if it's even possible? 

It was a while now since I had issues with GFWL, but I am pretty sure I have had them all at some point. The service sucks. Luckily it will be removed next year, and Capcom has said that they will likely port their games away from GFWL. I am sorry, I can't help you with your issue, maybe you can wait until next year before GFWL is gone completely.

Personally I have this one http://www.amazon.com/Q1U-USB-Dynamic-Recording-Mic/dp/B000EZMYRS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381851079&sr=8-1&keywords=samson+Q1U I would like a more expensive one, but lets face it - I won't have any use for anything better than the Q1U

Have had a Razer Blackwidow since 2011, me and a buddy bought one at the same time. He later got one of those custom old school mechanical ones (he loves that old Macintosh keyboard), so I bought his blackwidow as well. A week after I bought his, I spilled coke on mine. So I was prepared with his directly.This one has started to put in double characters from time to time, which is highly frustrating. I am starting to plan a new purchase pretty soon, and I am leaning towards Corsair Vengeance K70 CherryMX Blue switches. Since I recently got the Corsair Vengeance M65 Mouse. Any general opinions about the K70?

70

I love playing with 60 FPS, but I Can play games down to 30, but below that I will not tolerate. So I voted 35+ FPS