KarathKasun

$20-$30

You get what you pay for TBQH. It is technically a "USB3" drive, but the flash is so slow that it doesn't matter. Just make sure that you get a SATA M.2 drive to go in the USB adapter if you go that route. A M.2 SATA 128gb drive + USB adapter is going to be cheaper than any equally performant USB stick.

Its an exceptionally cheap drive. How much did you pay for it? Drives with decent performance are in the $20-$40 price range.

Then the drive is just garbage. Its likely USB 2 with a blue plastic insert or USB3 connector on it.

5mb/s for writes is pretty normal for any generic USB flash drive. The only thing USB 3.1 gets you is faster reads. There are drives that will do 100mb/s+ writes, but you are going to pay 4x more (or even more than that) for them.

Ryzen 3000 series is very temp sensitive when it comes to boost, very much like modern GPUs. Something like 5-10 degrees can bump clocks down by 100 or so MHZ. 3800 is boosting, standard clocks are 3600. It is likely not boosting higher because of temps. Ive got a 3600 in an ASRock X370 Killer SLI cooled with an Arctic Freezer 33, my boost in CB R15 is 3900-3925 @ 63c. You are not that far off and your temps are over 10c higher, Id say its working as intended.

Stay away from cheap drives.

This is not true. B550 is Ryzen 3000+ ONLY. Any earlier processors are NOT officially supported. This does not mean that older CPUs will not work, but you would have to look at the manufacturers supported CPU list for each board to see if they have included the older bootstrap code for pre-3000 series support. AMD does not require that manufactureers include this support. https://www.extremetech.com/computing/310418-new-amd-b550-motherboards-are-incompatible-with-earlier-ryzen-cpus

Missed the boot failure and Windows installation post. This sounds like a failed flash controller or cache memory. A soft reset (reset button or restart from Windows) will not reliably cause the SSD controller to re-initialize, causing the UEFI to not detect the drive. AFAIK most controllers will only auto reset after a specific number of failed retries or a specific amount of time, and you wont necessicarily hit that limit before the UEFI does drive detection. The only 100% sure way to force them to reset would be to actually power cycle the system/drive.

Cache processing is Chrome trying to clean up the browser cache, which is accessing the SSD. It gets stuck because the SSD is no longer responding. The system is freezing for the same reason, the OS is stuck trying to access files that it cant get to.

It may be a failure of one of the SSD components then. You could try a full secure erase and see if that fixes it, but if that does not work the SSD may need to be replaced.

The drive is dropping connection. The SSD controler is locking up trying to deal with an error or the connection is dropping out due to a faulty cable.

Personally, I would have the fans set to ramp from 25% at 60c to 100% at 75c. I dont care about noise though, lower temps are more important and make parts last longer. The fans should be fine running all the time, and should be good for a long time even at full speed. Fans are also relatively cheap to replace compared to the GPU itself.

Yeah, I just remember when the 16gb modules came out there were both. Though I suppose that as more high density chips come along that most would end up being SR instead of DR.

Depending on how the higher cap modules are wired, two sticks can appear to be four as far as the memory controller is concerned. Im not 100% sure at what capacity current DDR4 transitions to dual rank, but it is worth doing a bit of research on before pulling the trigger on 16gb modules.

2x16 is also a thing, not 100% sure there is a performance benefit either way because some high capacity modules are electrically the same as two DIMMs on one PCB.

Another thing to keep in mind is that we are starting to get to the point where 16gb of RAM is filling up. I blame game distribution platforms and all of the crap they run in the background.

9900k will do a tad better for gaming only workloads, thats the only real alternate route I am seeing. If you are going AMD, grab an X570 board. There are some in the $150 price bracket.

Answered my own question, its ARGB. Its possible that you have connected it to an OG 12v RGB header, double check your MB manual. If it says 12v G B R for the pinout, you have likely damaged the fan. ADDR_LED1 should be what you connected it to on the MB. RGB_LED1 will damage addressable LED parts because it is 12v and not 5v.

Is the fan 12v RGB or 5v ARGB?

The GPU is rendering the menus and all graphics associated with them, generally games have graphics going on behind the menus. On top of this, most games try to spit frames out as fast as possible unless vsync is on. This means you will get near 100% usage at pretty much all times unless your CPU is not able to feed the GPU frames fast enough. With CPUusage that high you either have something hogging the CPU cycles, or your CPU is just flat out not fast enough to push the FPS you want. --found something-- This seems to be a known issue with the game. https://support.activision.com/community/s/question/0D54P00007I5jigSAB/low-fps-only-in-warzone-1080-ti-i77700k

Dont want to make a new thread since this is the one that comes up when searching for X370/Ryzen 3000 compatibility. I picked up an ASRock X370 Killer SLI and R5 3600, mainly because of pricing on the board. I already had an R5 1600 + B350, so I had a chip I knew would work in the board if it needed an update. If you are upgrading an existing build with a similar board, you should be in the same general situation. First, check your MB vendors support page/BIOS update page for explicit Ryzen 3000 series support. Second, update to the absolute latest UEFI/BIOS with Ryzen 3000 support. Third, cold boots with 3200+ memory can take a bit. I had to set the boot retry counter up to 5+ so that it does DDR4 training properly while using the RAMs XMP profile. Without the boot retry tweak the system will cold boot at 2133 memory speed, requiring it to be manually set back to 3200 in BIOS. The power button to display on delay is 15s or so, not horrid, but also not going to win any boot timing contests. This could just be a motherboard/RAM specific quirk. Other than that, it works perfectly. I can easily OC using Ryzen Master to 4.4ghz, no BSODs, no funny behavior. Performance is 100% where it should be, PBO works, default boost behavior is as expected on an X570 board (hitting 4.2ghz on the R5 3600), memory performance is in line with newer boards using DDR4 3200. On any modern platform the chipset itself has nothing to do with memory support, its just SATA/Ethernet/PCIe switch/some other things smashed into a single chip. Memory performance is down to UEFI/BIOS and trace layout alone. For PCIe 4.0... it only matters on VRAM limited setups. RX 5500 XT 4GB comes to mind, as it only has an X8 connection.

Higher resolution = less CPU demand and more GPU demand. If the CPU is good for 100fps at 1080p its good for 100fps at 8k.

Also, with how Windows handles threads, you will not really ever see one core pegged at 100%. It moves threads from core to core faster than the task manager can update.

USB isnt an audio interface, its a data interface with a host/client architecture. You need a USB host device (computer) to run a client device (DAC). You could, in theory, setup a Raspberry Pi to run headless and do the redirecting. But you will always have latency issues. Get a DAC with optical input if you really want to solve the issue.