KSP

Hi guys, So I finally got around to installing my HUE+. Initially ran into a problem with some of the strips not working, but I fixed that. Now, I have a problem where certain light modes (marquee, covering marquee, spectrum, alternating) don’t want to work. I have 2 channels of light strips in my pc, one on the side showing off my components and another on the side showing off my terrible cable management, and the problem only occurs on the second channel. The first channel works absolutely fine and responds to any mode I set in CAM. The second channel just won’t apply the certain modes I’ve listed above. I’m really confused on this one, and I can’t seem to find a good/clear answer on the internet. There is something odd in CAM however, Channel 2 doesn’t appear to be recognized(?) by CAM (in the pic below both channels are set to Fixed White but only Channel 1 appears to be that way in CAM). Does anyone know any possible fixes? I have the latest version of CAM and the last meet firmware for the HUE+. Does anyone know any fixes for this? Thanks!

I have not, Ill look into that once I get back home. Thanks!

Update: After the game finished installing on my SSD, I tried to uninstall it. However, the same thing occurs and the PUBG folder still remains on my SSD. I am going to ask Steam Support if it is safe to directly delete the PUBG folder off my SSD.

Update: I uninstalled PUBG through steam, with deleted PUBG from my hard drive. I chose to redownload it onto my SSD, and while allocating the disk space it discovered the old game files there. Its now downloading more stuff onto the old game files. Once it’s done I will uninstall it, which should uninstall it off my SSD. Hopefully then everything will be fixed .

I will try to uninstall PUBG from Steam itself later today. Perhaps it will delete both versions of the game, the one on my SSD and the other on my hard drive. But if it one deletes one of them, how should I delete the other version? I am pretty sure I made sure to install PUBG on the drive I wanted it to install, but perhaps something went wrong. Ill update as soon as I can, thanks!

I never have downloaded the test server. I’ll try redownloading it again later tonight. Thanks!

Hey,So this morning I was moving some of my games from my SSD to my hard drive and some games from my hard drive to my SSD. One game I was moving from my SSD to my hard drive was PUBG. I uninstalled the game and then chose to reinstall it on my hard drive. After it was done downloading I restarted my PC and checked my Steam folder on my SSD and hard drive to make sure everything was right. I found that the game was shown as still being on my SSD but was also on my hard drive. However, on my SSD, it was showing that the game was 13.8GB and on my hard drive it was displaying 17.2GB. Is there a way to fix this? Or is this even a problem? Is there a way where I can check what drive the game is actually on?Thanks

I honestly don’t watch a lot of YouTube/Netflix on my pc, but most of the 1080p content I have seen on my monitor just gets scaled up to fit the entire screen. The resolution/clarity of the image is a bit odd at first but you get used to it after a few minutes. There were only a few, if any, instances that I can recall where it produced black bars on the borders instead of scaling up.

After making the jump to 144hz a few years ago, there’s really no going back. If you are going to use the monitor for productivity primarily, however, then 4K 60Hz will probably be the better option over 1440p 144Hz, just for that extra bit of clarity. If you are going to use it for gaming, however, 1440p 144Hz all the way. I personally own the Dell S2716DG (revision A04). It’s 1440p, 144Hz, TN, and 1ms. After I messed with some color settings for about 5-10 minutes, I got the monitor to display really nice colors, for a TN panel; it’s the nicest TN panel I’ve seen. I would highly recommend, especially since I got it for $475. If you really can’t stand a TN panel tho, and if you’ve already looked at the Acer Predator lineup, the ASUS PG279Q is a good option from what I’ve heard, although some say it is plagued with many of the same problems as the Acer monitors have. That’s one of main reasons why I went for the Dell monitor actually; their QC is incredible. Edit: Gsync isn’t really needed but it’s really nice to have. I know that you said you were going to upgrade to the new GPUs whenever they roll out, but for the time being, having Gsync will really help your GTX 980 to provide a smooth experience in demanding situations.

Get the 1440p display. Going 60Hz and getting much worse frame rates just for 4K just isn’t worth it yet imo.

Just seems like bad luck to me then. I’m not really sure how to fix it. It is a very beautifully designed mouse indeed, I really love the wireless flexibility. I would go ahead and submit a RMA request.

Haven’t run into that problem. How long have you been using the mouse? It doesn’t just happen in PUBG right? As someone else suggested, I would just RMA it.

Unless you play games like roblox and Minecraft, you are gonna want to want a 1080Ti. Trust me, totally worth it lol. Though, I know this isn’t what you asked, but, if you can wait a few more months, rumor is new GPUs will be rolling out.

I would expect it would hit 70-90fps in most titles on reasonable settings, though I’m not 100% sure. Personally, id get the free sync monitor. I don’t think spending twice the price would be worth it, you get my gist? If you are starting to experience some tearing, I would just drop down to 120hz for that particular game. Though, one of my friends has a 1060 3gb and a 144hz 1080p monitor with freesync and he tells me he hardly ever notices tearing anyways, and he plays a lot of demanding games such as Battlefield 1 and 4.

Yeah you’ll be fine running 144hz on a freesync monitor with a NVIDIA gpu. You of course just won’t make use of the free sync technology. As far as whether GSync would be worth the extra money, it depends on your resolution and GPU you have now. If your GPU can’t keep up in more modern titles, gsync will help smooth it out.

Big difference? No. But the X72 should run a few degrees (we’re talking 1-5 degrees celcius) on average better temps when compared to the X62 or X52. Up to you if you think it’s worth selling to save some money.

Looking great! Definitely going to turn out to be a killer build! On a side note, how many hours of planning and working do you think you've put into this build? I only dream to have as much dedication as you do lol .

Hey guys, Sorry if this is posted under the wrong sub forum So I’ve been needing another internal USB 2.0 connection for my HUE+ for a bit, since my USB 2.0 header on my motherboard was being taken up by my NZXT Kraken X52. I’ve been looking at the NZXT Internal USB Hub so that I could use both my X52 and HUE+. The hub uses a Molex cable for power and of course plugs into the motherboard. While I was reading some reader reviews, I’ve read that the molex cable (I believe) is kind of “shady” and has caused some major problems in some people’s computers, including failing and releasing smoke and killing the whole computer. I’m quite worried about this of course, especially since I’ve put so much time and money into my build and NZXT doesn’t exactly... well let’s just say that have “questionable” customer service. Does anyone use this Hub? Would you recommend it? What are your experiences with it? Are there any alernatives? Thank you

Love the balance between the red, grey, and black. Really nice build! Edit: 07 to accomplishing so much in a mATX case. I can never see how people can fit a full custom loop in such a tiny amount of space!

Ha! Started taking apart PCs in the 4th grade and built my first in the 5th! . Although, with some “substantial” help from my father . Anyways, great job OP. Looking forward to seeing the finished product!

Question: I have a GSync monitor, and whenever I run FireStrike or any 3DMark benchmark, i always get a warning/pop up saying that GSync may affect my scores. Is this true? Is there a way to disable GSync, because I can’t find a way to do so through my monitors onboard settings or through the NVIDIA Control Panel.

Alrighty! It unfortunately looks like I’m gonna have to do the overclocking tomorrow. Something came up and I don’t have enough time to overclock. Will try my best to OC it tonight tho!

I suppose 2.1GHz isn’t super rare for a 1080Ti, but coming from thinking 2.0GHz was great for a 1080Ti, it’s pretty ambitious for me . So this is kind ok a update log/place for me to ask my questions, as I’m not exactly the best overclocked by any means. I’ll start off my posting my system specs. CPU- i7 7700K @4.8GHz Motherboard- ASUS Maximus IX Formula CPU Cooler- NZXT Kraken X52 RAM- Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB 3200MHz GPU- EVGA GTX 1080Ti FTW3 Hybrid PSU- EVGA G3 1000watt Storage- Samsung 960 Pro 512GB, Samsung 850 Evo 1TB, WD Black 2TB Case- The (highly airflow restrictive) Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX TG Other- a lot of Corsair ML120 Fans Now, let’s begin... Upon receiving the card, I had left it stock for the greatest time. Mostly because I was too lazy to overclock. By itself, the card boosted to around 1960-1970MHz on load. Eventually one evening I went ahead and started playing with Precision X and used the following to achieve a +110 on the core and a +500 on the memory: Power Target: 117% Temp Target: 80C GPU Clock Offset: +110MHz MEM Clock Offset: +500MHz Voltage Target: 100% Doing this allowed the GPU to achieve 2088MHz (stable) and just over 6000MHz on the Memory. All of this and never hitting above 55C on the GPU, 55C on the Memory, and 60C on the Power. I was already extremely satisfied with this, I personally did not expect my GPU to even hit above 2.0GHz (because you know, lottery system, and let’s just say I don’t have the best of luck). I ran a few more tests and benchmarks just to make sure my card was stable, and went on my merry way playing my games and doing stupid stuff in GTA Online. But something about hitting the magical 2.1GHz was bugging me throughout. So, I tried it. I added a +125 on the core and ran FireStrike Ultra. Ran fine for a few seconds, then it just crashed, closing the application. I wasn’t disappointed because I hadn’t seen many 1080Tis hit 2.1GHz without a custom loop, or even above 2050MHz. So I dismissed the thought of 2.1GHz and continued doing stupid stuff in online multiplayer games. But wait! There’s more! Little did I know, I forgot to change my GPU from the default “Master” BIOS to the “Slave” BIOS... until yesterday, when I decided to take a good look at my GPU while I was loading into a game (yeah I know I’m weird). Now, as far as I know, the Slave BIOS allows the Power Target to be set at 127%, and maybe it changes a few other things to help the GPU overclock just that slightest bit better. So there I was, in my man cave, ready to take the side panel off my case and switch my GPU BIOS to Slave to unleash its full potential, but I happened to notice that it was 2:40AM.... Crap You see, I get up at 6AM to head to work because traffic is just that bad. Now, I had to make the decision. Stay awake for an hour or two and try hitting 2.1GHz on the Slave BIOS, or be a good human being and get whatever sleep I could. Well, I choose to get whatever sleep I could. Fast forward and few hours and here I am now. I’m about to switch my GPU BIOS to Slave, but had a few questions: What exactly does Slave allow the GPU to do? Is there any harm in setting my Power Target to 127%? Would increasing the Power Target to 127% help in my goal of hitting 2.1GHz? I guess that’s about it. Thanks for any replies. I’ll try to keep this updated as soon as I start to (attempt to) hit 2.1GHz. Thanks all! Post any questions or comments if you have .

I would only recommend EVGA or ASUS cards. I have the EVGA FTW3 Hybrid, and I love it. It’s a bit pricey compared to other options, but it’s silent, keeps cool, and looks awesome .

FTW3 Elites aren’t different to FTW3s other than the colored shrouds . Not sure if FTW3s by default are binned however. That’s a nice clock speed, most 1080Tis hit around 2025 ish. I haven’t seen too many 1080Tis hit above 2.1GHz, so 2075 is nice. My 1080Ti ran 2090MHz smoothly but I decided to run it at 2075MHz as well