Daniel644

depends on your PSU, they worked right out of the box with my 2017 RM750x PSU. @grangervoldemort I bought 2 of the 10TB units with the bonus 32GB flash drive from Best Buy last november, shucked them and put them to work as the mass storage for my gaming desktop, no issues with the drives, they are the white label drives like every other unit, unlike most people that use credit cards and stuff like that to shuck them I used like every last pick from my IFixIt Protech Toolkit, it's possible if you are really careful to shuck them without breaking any clips so you could restore them to stock should you need warranty service, there is no "warranty void" sticker or anything like that on the enclosure. the real trick is once you have every clip spaced out by the picks you take the last one and where the back/bottom/top half of the enclosure hits the front, those are the last points you want to pop and you so it with a twisting motion of the pick and the 2 halves separate from each other and all the picks fall out simultaneously, literally takes a couple minutes to be at a bare drive. It's the same model number as all the other ones you will see on r/datahoarders, WD isn't just slapping random different 10tb drives into them, it's the same internal drive on all of them.

PSA: DUSTING your computer is also important, I reduced my Hybrid Cooled Titan Xp by 3 Degrees Celsius (at load 44-45 down to 41-42c) simply by blasting all the dust out of the Rad. Unlike CPU's where a decent aircooler can be equal to an AIO, no air cooler can touch what WATER can on a GPU.

thats not the only Mac i've had my hands on, I had to install a printer for 2 different clients that had Macbooks (the modern thin ones from the last few years) one of the printers had to connect over wifi, it took me 3-4 times longer to get shit working then it does take me to do it on Windows. That reference to when I was a kid was simply to show how long I had been around Mac's, oh and 3 of my sisters have Macbooks in their houses as well.

it may have been a Mac II, all I know is it was an Apple computer which we played Oregon Trail on and we had like maybe 2 of them in the corner of the classroom and I was like 8 or 9 at the time and this was one of the schools our school was sharing the building with after Hurricane Andrew in late 1992 since our school building was damaged by the hurricane.

hey hey hey, we aren't "insane" for being anti-apple, we are anti-apple because it's not intuitive for someone thats used windows since Windows 3.1 seriously no right click contextual menu's on MacOS (last I looked anyway) and no standardized back button within easy reach like android has in it's bottom row (which NEVER moves, unlike the back button on iOS).

well now you have, I use it daily, several times a day as I put my computer to sleep when I take it to work so I use it to sign in at work, then again at the restaurant I eat dinner at every night after work then again when I get home, i've legitimately used it well over 1,000 times to sign in since I got this computer in late November/early December 2017 and I can count the number of times the facial rec failed and I had to enter my pin on my hands and those failures pretty much all happened when I had a light source directly behind me relative to the cameras angle (aka a flood of infrared light).

boy I used a Mac when you where diapers, well technically it was the Apple II or something like that, that my school had when I was in 3rd grade (circa 1993) and I've had customers that had MAC's couldn't figure out how to do much of anything on them (seriously no right click?, no contextual menu's? How do you get anything done?).

the size of the enclosure doesn't dictate the amount of fans required, the amount of fans is dictated based on the amount of heat you need to remove, you only need enough airflow to remove the heat of the components, so if you where to say measure temps based on the tower the PC is in now (provided the tower has unobstructed ventilation) you will get the same amount of cooling by using the same number of fans, the larger volume simply means it will take longer to heat up the inside.

2 sticks vs 4 sticks is not dual vs quad channel, the Ryzen platform only supports Dual Channel, so when you have 4 sticks you have 2 pairs of dual channel (for lack of a better way of wording it), Ryzen NEEDS at a minimum a pair (dual channel) of RAM, but as you increase the number of sticks of ram you decrease the max speeds you can run the ram at, so you are better off keeping with 2 sticks.

you CAN'T increase the Voltage on a Pascal GPU (the Core Voltage line is greyed out and not adjustable) without having access to the hardware necessary to flash a BIOS which is not available to consumers, the only way a consumer can screw with voltages is through the use of a "Shunt Mod" which involves using liquid metal thermal compound to short and alter the resistance of key resistors on the board. The POWER LIMIT setting (while it does play with the voltage to some extent) is the one you can adjust, but Nvidia has the cap on it set to where it can't do any harm unless you just have piss poor cooling and even then it will simply throttle the clocks to lower the temp. You aren't gonna hurt anything trying to find what your stable overclock is on Pascal as it's Impossible to adjust any sliders in a way that they could damage the card in the way you are thinking, the worst thing that will happen is you push the Core or Memory to far and it causes the driver to crash and you have to reboot. I have many hours in fine tuning my GPU overclocks and have never hurt any of them from playing with the unlocked sliders on a Pascal card.

because the pins could be part of the connections to the memory?

what would make you think you can't? you do know the only thing that matters with a GPU is it being an x16 length PCIE slot and not an AGP lot (which haven't been on motherboards for like a decade or more now), there is no rule saying you NEED an AMD CPU to use an AMD GPU, you can mix and match to your hearts content, but I would wait on a 5700xt until partner boards come out with better cooling solutions and they clean up the drivers because those cards are all over the place in performance.

confirmed, if you go here https://www.ekwb.com/configurator/step1_complist?gpu_gpus=4584 and type in 2080 super it lists multiple Super cards with already supported blocks using regular 2080 blocks

I don't know about "all" but many will be, particularly the cheaper models, usually higher end cards get custom PCB's but ultimately this is nothing more then a GPU Die upgrade and maybe a memory speed upgrade, none of the physical dimensions are changing from a regular 2080 so you don't need to wait for a "Super" block to be released.

should be, it lists the regular "black edition" 2070 and 2080 which tells me the black edition EVGA uses the Founders PCB, so provided EVGA didn't go custom PCB for the Super Black Edition then it should be fine. a 2070 Super Founders PCB is the same board and components (with the exception of the specific GPU Die and Memory modules) as a Regular 2080, so just confirm with @Evga that the 2070 Super Black is a Founders PCB layout and you will be good.

if you are ever near a Microcenter swing in and grab a Ryzen 5 1600 for $80 USD and have an even more banging system.

why not just keep the GPU in the box it came in and put that box in the box the PC is being shipped in?

you can look up the specs for the PSU and see how many of each type of connection it has. this is a pretty standard list to be supplied on the product page.

some good adblockers, plus windows Defender and updated browsers and you are pretty decently covered, just don't be an idiot.

Also, Man you are so lucky, I gotta wait a freaking WEEK for stuff to ship cross country and my state passed a law so we get sales tax on all internet purchases, you are 30 minutes from Will Call, I'm an hour or more from the nearest computer store (Microcenter or Fry's, not counting Best Buy for obvious reasons).

you will pay a price premium for it a 16GB 2x8 kit will run you at least $40 more then a CL16 3200 Mhz kit (the CL14 is what I bought in preparation for the upcoming switch to ryzen 3000 on my gaming rig).

in my experience the price difference can be enough that it's still worth paying tax on, plus you can get the ram at Will Call if you are that close and not have to wait on shipping. https://kb.newegg.com/knowledge-base/will-call-hours-and-locations/

the whole "designed for intel" just means it's certified to reach it's listed XMP profile in the configuration that it's sold in with Intel CPU's, the worst thing that will happen buying ram listed as being for Intel is that you might not be able to reach the speed and timings listed on the RAM, also don't waste your time on Amazon looking at RAM, you wanna go to NEWEGG, you will find much better pricing in my experience and you will much more easily find the ram certified for Ryzen, just remember unless this is for Ryzen 3000 you likely won't hit 3200 Mhz on any ram kit you buy, early Ryzen CPU's are crap for doing 3,000 Mhz or faster.

Meshify C is Nice (I've built 2 PC's using them) I would mention the clearances are TIGHT if you have large hands or plan a large GPU, Founders cards are OK but putting a triple fan cooler card like an ASUS Strix might require not populating one of the front fan slots. and if you get to big a PSU (like the RM750x, which is what I have) you are forced to ditch the 3.5" drive caddy as the PSU is to long to fit leaving you only having the 2.5" sleds on the back side. Definitely invest in a datavac or other electric duster though, that front filter gets dirty and nasty looking pretty easily, but is easily removed for cleaning (without even needing to shutdown the system).

well i can tell you how I did Windows 8.1 on my Ryzen, that was to install Windows in an older machine and transfer the drive over. not sure that will work for 7 though.