markuess

No time to watch atm, what where the stable results? Thanks.

Ok I actually found something, after about 2h of trial and error. If you go into regedit to: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Power\PowerSettings\54533251-82be-4824-96c1-47b60b740d00\ (look at the keys below, this is just a folder) There you'll find a ton of invisible processor energy settings. Most of them are useless. There were 2 that did exactly what I wanted. I tried out each one and also compared the values to the "maximum" profile of Windows. HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Power\PowerSettings\54533251-82be-4824-96c1-47b60b740d00\36687f9e-e3a5-4dbf-b1dc-15eb381c6863 @%SystemRoot%\system32\powrprof.dll,-812,Processor energy performance preference policy Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Power\PowerSettings\54533251-82be-4824-96c1-47b60b740d00\6c2993b0-8f48-481f-bcc6-00dd2742aa06 @%SystemRoot%\system32\powrprof.dll,-701,Processor idle threshold scaling (Set "Attribute" to "2" to be able to see these in advanced power settings dialog) Processor idle threshold scaling is off at max performance profile, but on at all other profiles. So I turned it off at my profile to. Processor energy performance preference policy is set to 0% at max performance profile, 33% at balanced profile, 60% at aggressive power save profile. I set it to 20% and now my CPU is jumping nicely between 1Ghz idle and ~2.9Ghz under 40% CPU load - and it stays there pretty stable and doesn't flicker around. Of course don't forget to set "max cpu frequency also".. Have fun and happy sunshine holidays

I'm on a laptop with i5-8250u - depending on the profiles I created, my CPU will throttle below 0.8 Ghz and Turbo up to 3.4Ghz. I already used a registry hack to get back the "Maximum Processor Frequency" setting in power options. But that's not what I want. I want to set a minimum frequency of 1.8Ghz. Google shows zero useful results. Whatever I try in power options seems to have no effect. Only when I clone the Windows Max Performance Setting I get to remove this super-low throttle but then my CPU is constantly high and battery is dry within an hour. Is there no way with this super expensive and sophisticated CPU to make it run between 1.8Ghz and 3.4Ghz? Yes, I really need that for productive purposes, not for gaming (got a desktop for gaming). This constant low throttle crap causes my applications to stutter and hang, Windows never seems to guess right how much CPU power it should deliver anyway. Many thanks.

Sure mate, of course I don't mind you asking. Yes, only Amazon, only new, not warehouse deals, and all devices where new, didn't show signs of usage, and came in their manufacturers box. Also it was from Amazon directly, not 3rd Party vendors selling on Amazon. When buying that kind of stuff >500 USD, I'm not messing around. It's a lot of money for me. I've been wondering myself if this was just accidental or more than a coincidence. For example, my trusted Nvidia Shield tablet holds on by my side for over 4 years now, not showing any sign of issue - none of my Androids do. But reviews on Amazon of Windows Devices talk another language: Cases like mine seem to be common, especially on those full-SoC devices. Often reviewers speak of a "series", they get 4 devices in a row, 2 had the same issue with speakers, 2 the same issue with a touch pad falling apart. I just wondered if all these Intel SoCs for different brands and models maybe come the same factory (sure, the talked about touch pad isn't part of an SoC). I'm seriously confused and don't know what to try next. I'm generally looking for a real touch screen with pressure sensitive pen for digital painting, a i5-i7 quadcore and a small form factor. Oh and no more eMMC please. That's pretty much all my desires. That and the device not breaking after 5min of looking at it. Here's LMGs experience with the Razor blade, check the table at the beginning closely - it's like 80% of their devices fail on some part:

I had 3 of these "smoking" within the first 3 weeks I had them. I'm talking about full-SoC Windows devices with soldered RAM, eMMC or NVMe, Ultrabooks / Tablets / Convertibles / 2-1 or however they call it. 1.) was a cheap one, don't remember the brand, from Amazon. The device, although new, arrived in a non-working condition and was sent back immediately. It was a 13" Ultrabook with an 7th gen m-whatever, 4GB of RAM and eMMC storage. 2.) I thought I should invest a bit more and bought the Acer Switch 3 Tablet, again a full-retar.. erm sorry SoC device with Apollo Lake N4200, pressure sensitive pen (had to purchase separately), 64GB eMMC, 4GB RAM, total cost ~500 USD. The device worked fine at first, I was pleased with the nice screen, the ability to paint on it, and that it was fan-less. That was until it started blue-screening, saying "SDBUS_INTERNAL_ERROR" more and more often until the third week I had it. Windows reinstall fixed nothing. Sent back to Amazon. Had to keep the accesoires. (And also I had started to upgrade my Wifi to 5Ghz / Gigabit routers and a new NAS to compensate for the lack of storage) 3.) I thought, well maybe the last one still was cheap. So I paid about 8 times as much as I originally intended and bought an 8th-gen i7 intel tablet with 16GB of RAM, 1TB SSD, planing to keep the device for at least 5-10 years, maybe have the battery replaced at some point. The device smoked after a week. I'm not aware that I did anything to make the devices break, didn't even bring them outside, didn't play Crysis, mostly Office and Web, didn't drop them. Right now I'm pretty pissed. It's a lot of trouble going through sourcing the right device, ordering, installing, customer support, returning, feeling stupid, over and over again. These things seem to be as fragile as my love for Luke (no, just kidding, I will always love Luke). Linus kinda covered this (for about 5 seconds) with the recent Razor Blade update, check the table at the beginning. So what is going on? I cannot find reliable stats on the internet. There's one generic Reuters article about Microsoft Surface more likely to break than other brands laptops. I really hope LMM would dig into Intel-SoC devices and see how likely they are to break. You got any numbers or specific device recommendations? I'm probably spoiled, building my own PCs for almost 20 years, when a piece breaks, I replace that piece.

Thanks mate, I'm gonna check it out. Still a lot of trouble around mining it seems.

Any tips or tutorials? I'm in Europe, Germany. Back then I used a British Coin Bank but they wouldn't let me authenticate myself, the British don't seem to use the same methods to ID people as the rest of the world (via ID).

I've been mining Bitcoin a bit 2 years ago, but gave up due to the issues I had to actually convert my BC into CASH. Have things gotten a little easier until now? Got a supercooled OC'd Ryzen 7 with a GTX 1080 sitting idle 18h / day anyway. What's the most simple yet profitable way to mine on my machine, simple setup, simple cashout?

Ok, thanks again. I've talked to Amazon and they'll send a replacement. But they're out of stock so it won't come in before next wednesday. Hope the rest of the system will hold on till then *Fingers crossed*

Thanks guys. Please let me clarify: The random black screens are not crashes. It's just the screen going black, while in the middle of gaming for example. It goes black completely for around 0.5 seconds and the comes back. The game or video runs on. Sometimes it's 3 times in a row. When it comes back, I hear a silent "pop" as if I just plugged in HDMI. It's totally random, sometimes it doesn't happen for hours. (It feels like a neighbour would trigger it by turning on his microwave, although I highly doubt that's actually the case. Just to describe it better.) In fact not a single crash, BSOD or anything alike was involved in all of this as far as I can remember. That's why I'm so puzzled about the BIOS OC reset message. As I feared, the problem returned in the mean time. Switching ports on the PSU only fixed it temporarily it seems. I'll check for the chocked cables, that's a pretty good idea mate! I really hope my PSU doesn't take damage from this, I can still get a warranty replacement for the GPU, but the PSU is too old. I don't have money left for a new one.

Hi, I'm looking for some expert advise. Background: I got a Corsair AX760 Platinum PSU, recently I purchased a GTX 1080. Since I got the card, my monitor started flashing black randomly, sometimes only twice a day, sometimes 20 times in an hour. It happens while Gaming, watching videos or just sitting around on the Desktop. I've tried every tip found on the internet, older Nvidia drivers, different monitor drivers, VSync on / off, DDU, you name it. No success. Yesterday I reopened my case and did what you "do" hardware wise, gave everything a gentle push, like the RAM, the card, the plugs etc. just to make sure it sits tight. I also changed the sockets on the PSU for the two 8-pin connectors supporting the GPU. Now it seems the issue is gone, but I'm unsure what I'm dealing with here. In the aftermath some things come to my mind I didn't really think about before: - After installing the card at first and plugging in the HDMI cable I noticed some static noise on my speakers. The monitor and computer both were switched of, however still connected to power, and the computer being connected to an amplifier via analogue cable. - I also realized that I was missing some pre-boot bios messages for a while, the first one that comes direct after starting the computer, displaying the CPU frequency - While playing with the card, drivers and adjusting overclocking (gently) the BIOS sometimes reset my CPU overclocking for no reason. It gave me the BIOS message that "something failed and overclocking was reset for making sure the system runs safe" - I usually only get that message after screwing up overclocking completely or a hard crash. This time the message appeared without any noticeable reason. So my question finally: What's happening here? Is it the 1080 screwing up my power supply? Is it other way round? To me it seems something on the 1080 is not grounded properly, changing the sockets on the modular PSU did solve all problems ATM but leaves me with a bad taste in my mouth an the fear that I might damage those new sockets, too. Thanks for your help.

No choice here either, Win 10 came bundled with the laptop and I'm totally not in the mood to shove more money down the throat of M$ to buy a copy of Win 7. I've been saving up for this cool gaming laptop for a while, but Win 10 absolutely took the last bit of fun out of it. So I've been giving it to my wife 2 weeks ago, she's just skyping and emailing, actually a total waste from a hardware point of view. Sidenote: I've been working with Linux also for over a decade, not even in the early days I hat so many problems with Linux as I had with Win 10. This thing is a total, broken mess, the worst piece of alpha ware, spying, forced on people, forcing updates on people, breaking stuff, I really hate M$ for it and I hope from the bottom of my heart that somehow they go out of business.

Same problem here, disabled it a dozen times, still it keeps asking - not after boot but after standby. This Win 10 b****sh**** is so damn annoying. It takes my Laptop to boot between 2min and 9min, and that's an Acer V7 Laptop Core I5-4200m / GTX 760m, granted is has no SSD, but still. On my Desktop I will stay with Win 7, whatever DirectX.

I own a Zotac 970 and have it overclocked to +150/+250Mhz core/mem, custom air cooling so I'm below 67° on 100% load on the hotest summer days. No problems for the last 1,5 years until recently I started playing AC Black Flag, I got more or less the same symptoms OP described. Sudden frame drops up to 5fps and even up to a hard reset (not even a BSOD, PC just rebooted and reset my OC settings). So I downclocked my 2700K from 4.3 to 4.2 Ghz (also no temp problem here < 55° on 100%) and believed the problem was solved. Still problems kept arising especially when Alt+Tabbing in and out of the game. One day the hard drive went crazy, I figured maybe a memory leak in Assassins Creed. My PSU is a Corsair Professional AX760 760W 80 PLUS Platinum . TL;DR: After reading OP's post I now suspect the Nvidia beta drivers / Latest release drivers may be the cause..

Yeah not sure why it's doing that. I mean, I know "why", because it became loose a bit. When I click-in the front cover, the noise doesn't start immediately, it takes a couple of days. Once it started, I can push it back in half a millimeter and the noise stops - but then it doesn't hold very long, couple of hours only. When I completely remove the front cover and click it in again, it's silent for a few days again. There aren't any screws I could tighten, not sure what I should do...