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Siskofan

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About Siskofan

  • Birthday Sep 03, 1991

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    The void between Milwaukee and Chicago

System

  • CPU
    Intel - Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor
  • Motherboard
    MSI - Z97-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard
  • RAM
    G.Skill - Ripjaws X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory
  • GPU
    EVGA - GeForce GTX 760 2GB Superclocked ACX Video Card
  • Case
    Fractal Design - Define R4 w/o Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case
  • Storage
    Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive; Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
  • PSU
    Corsair - RM 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
  • Display(s)
    A 1080p LED LG TV (because I'm a derp)
  • Cooling
    Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
  • Keyboard
    A cheap Logitech wireless thing (because derp)
  • Mouse
    SteelSeries - Rival 100 Wired Optical Mouse
  • Sound
    Whatever my GTX 760 uses
  • Operating System
    Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit
  • PCPartPicker URL

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  1. I've done more soul searching than one might expect for a piece of stamped and riveted metal, but I have thought a lot over the suggestion for a new case, and I'm forced to conclude you're probably correct. My issue remains is I do not have the space for a second computer, or something like a self built NAS which means I would habe 2 mid tower cases sitting around, one of which is doing nothing, so I will have to find something to do with it. Perhaps resell it, I don't know. But upon reconsideration I'll get the new case. As for the spinning drive, yes I know performance will drag, but I am adamantly against contributing to e waste (it's bad enough I have and old CPU, RAM, MB, GPU, and now PSU I cannot find a use for aside from reselling) so as long as it spins I will endure it. (Maybe I'll repurpose it to mass backup storage. I don't know). But it and the SATA SSD are sticking with the new system. As for the cooler, yeah upon a deeper check of that roundup I see my initial assessment was not correct. This is why I asked in the first place afterall. Once again I appreciate your input and apologize if my previous replies came across as rather harsh. That was not my intention byt reading back now I can see how it may come across that way.
  2. I appreciate your through response to my original post and I will probably stick to most of your suggestions, however i do have a few issues I wish to discuss. This first is the PC case. I am strongly preferring to stick to my old one. I feel the airflow in it is more than adequate so I likely will not take your suggestion for a new one. Thank you though. I based my air cooler choice on the recent LTT roundup of coolers and again would probably prefer that one to what was suggested here. But again, thank you. The GPU suggestion is excellent, I will go with that! As for the drives... well it's not that I don't need my old ones for mass storage, it's more I own them, I have data on them (like my Steam Library) I see no time to waste time and energy transferring files. I will take your recommendation on the NVME's though. You're right, there is no reason to not go NVME in this day and age. PSU, again fine. The higher wattage and PCIe 3.0 Standard is excellent and useful. Overall this is a much better build than what I had originally planned and unless you have further suggestions for my system, I will likely be going with this within the next week. Thank you again!
  3. Budget (including currency): No more than $3000 (but ideally under $2000) Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Modern and old AAA games, MMOs Other details: So I won't need peripherals as I plan to reuse my monitors, mouse, keyboard, speakers etc from my current system. My old system can be seen here: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/GGGCCb but in short it is an Intel i5 4670k and GTX 1070 8GB, I was planning on buying in the next week, and as for resolution and refresh rate I play at 1080p, 120-144 hz (but am perfectly happy with 60, I just have a 144 hz monitor). Basically my new system I want to get is here: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/J3dbW4 (plus this as PCPP doesn't seem to have the 7600 listed yet). My questions are 1: Does this build make sense or am I going over/underkill on the CPU/GPU combo? 2: Is my 650 watt PSU from my old build ok to use with this (I do plan on keeping and reusing the storage from the old system) or is it smarter to get a new PSU? (I am currently not worried about future proofing the PSU for an upgrade in TDP. I will cross that bridge if I need to). It seems my new system will not surpass the continuous rating of my current PSU. 3: My current case, a Fractal Define R4 is perfect for my needs, should I keep it or will my new system (say the cooler height or GPU length) not fit in it? I think I know what I am doing as this will be the second PC I built myself without help, but a little reassurance is never a bad thing. Thank you! (PS: I know wifi isn't as good as wired internet, but in my current living situation I'm stuck with it. That aspect cannot be changed).
  4. Reporting in, reinstalling the graphics card changed nothing. The computer still refuses to boot automatically, but will still do it manually if I select the SSD as my boot device in the boot menu.
  5. I'd just be too tempted to use myregular account. Yes my self control isn't all that good... lol. Can do. I'll report back when I give it a shot. I don't so that'll be the next thing I try if the reinstalling the GPU doesn't work. Thanks again you guys. I'll report back here when I have a chance to try these out.
  6. The thought hadn't occured to me. I really don't feel like putting it back in there only to take it out again (I'm doing it because it's hard to game on an igpu which means it won't distract me from school), so no. I can't see how that would have caused the issue (though I suppose it is possible). I just assumed unplugging my machine so I could move it into a spot whereI could work on it and then plugging it back in caused an issue. I could restall the card, but I won't have time to do it until Thursday at the earliest.
  7. I recently ripped out my graphics card and switched to my Intel CPU's onboard graphics, and after I put my PC back and plugged everything back in, the system refuses to boot automatically. The system will boot without a hiccugh if I manually go into my boot menu and select the Windows Boot Manager on my SSD, but it refuses to do it automatically no matter what settings I fiddle with in the UEFI. If I rearrange so the one of the WBMs I can see is at the top of the boot priority, I get sent into Windows recovery, that won't do anything but insist on a full reinstall. Something I know I don't need because I know my system is capable of booting up just fine. The other WBM the UEFI shows just causes the same mesaage to pop up: "Reboot and select a proper boot device." I'd prefer it if I didn't have to go into the boot menu each time I wanted to start up my pc. Also, my Windows 10 install is the only OS on my system.
  8. Not entirely true. My tv is by LG and will go into a powersave mode when my pc shuts down or turns off the display. To answer the OP another question is if you game competitively in fast paced games like shooters, go for a monitor because tv's traditionally have a really low response rate. Otherwise for single player gaming, or games where quick reactions aren't critical I'd base the choice more on what was already said namely, distance from the screen and resolution.
  9. Thanks for the advice guys. I'd rather not put in in the storeroom as my dad may end up flinging it around while he's rearranging so I'll probably stick it in a wooden dresser drawer. It's much less likely to get any physical damage from jostling around in there. The double wrapping in a paper bag and then aluminum foil sounds OK. I may try that for protection from static.
  10. So in order to help me focus on school, i ripped the GTX 760 out of my PC and switched to run on Intel Integrated Graphics. I have to do it this way or else I may be too tempted to just reopen the case and plug the power back in, or open the UEFI and switch back to my DGPU over the IGPU. The problem is, is that in the 3 years since I got the card, I seem to have thrown away all the original packaging, including the anti-static bag and the clamshell it was kept in inside the box. All I have left is the outer box. I think at the time I just planned to store my 760 in the packaging my new GPU would come in when I upgraded. With prices being what they are that isn't happening any time soon, so I'm stuck needing to store a GPU with nothing but the outer cardboard box. I really don't want to damage the card as I may need it once I get out of school if prices haven't dropped, but I'm unsure if just the box, and no clamshell or bag will be enough. I know this is an odd request, but I think I'm in an odd situation. Any help would be appreciated.
  11. Banned for pronouncing "aluminum" the Austrialian way.
  12. I was recently looking for something for my own Play Station 2. It came with the composite cables, but I was wondering if upgrading to component would be better, but after reading this I see it probably wouldn't on its own. The problem is, my space is limited, and I don't really have room for a CRT big enough to support component (or one that supports composite and stereo audio either) so my conclusion is that investing in a Framemeister is my only option. Would this be correct?
  13. So when installing Windows 10, I don't use the same product key that was used for the copy currently running on my desktop, correct? I don't want to inadvertently deactivate Windows on my gaming/main PC by using the same product key for the laptop. (The gaming pc was the one I used to create the installation media).
  14. Yeah I know, that's the other reason I should stop formatting it. Still it wasn't that expensive so I'm not incredibly worried. Anyway, the boot drive has been created and I'm running setup on the laptop now now.
  15. Thanks mate. I keep formatting the flashdrive I used for my desktop to make it a backup drive for my files when in reality I should just permanently keep it as a Windows install boot device. I'll get the device created then install the new OS. Because I'm a paranoid nut who should really invest in a NAS I have the files on my laptop, desktop, and backup HDD all mirrored so I don't think a backup of the laptop will be necessary, as my desktop has the most up to date files on it anyway. Thanks again. I'll certainly create a post or a new thread if I run into any issues.
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