jdjinn

Lil update here: I asked for a refund and had to pay the shipping costs (some 45 USD) I always thought Amazon Export Sales LLC was Amazon and not some random seller... So it is/was probably some kind of scam? 1) to send the wrong product knowing that 2) customers will be placed behind a pay wall (shipping costs) to be able to apply for a refund. 3) they got to keep the money for over a month. 4) Imagine doing such thing to 10.000 ppl each month: some ppl just won't send the product back and the money interests while the whole refund process take back! Is there a way to blacklist/block/ignore such sellers from amazon? So they won't show up on my results?

Hi. on prime day I bought a Samsung 990 Pro 2TB NVME on Amazon (sold by them: Amazon Export Sales LLC) since it was cheap (129,99 USD). After waiting two weeks (it was shipped to the country where I'm residing) I got the wrong product: a 1TB 970 evo plus. I opened a ticket and the first person answered me they would send the correct product (the 2TB 990 pro). I accepted the offer. After a while, he told me there was a problem with the system and redirected me to a second person who told me there was indeed a problem. After that, I was redirected to a call where I was told there was no other choice but to send the wrong product back and get a refund. They wouldn't fullfill the promise of sending the right product. I didn't accept it since I need the 990 pro and it is available on Amazon. Today I contacted them again and the first person told me they would send me the right product, but again "there was a problem on the system" and got redirected to a second, third and fourth person who then told me again there was no other choice but to send the product back, wait until amazon gets it and then wait some other 3-5 work days to get my money back to then buy again the product!! Since it could mean 1+ month lost waiting for a product I bought from amazon. Is there a procedure to make them fullfill the promise they did or I just have to wait 1+ month until I get my money back and then buy the ssd with the price they have it. Any help is valuable since this is my first time I get the wrong product (and it would be my first return).

I agree the one used by GN looks amazing. I'll try GenericLogViewer. I hope it will give me a better glimpse in the information I'm looking for.

Hi. Thanks for the information. I found a program called "GenericLogViewer" on HwInfo website (Add-ons | HWiNFO). I wonder if it is a good or among the best options for a reliable presentation of the log file. Has anyone tried it or any other program?

Hi, I would like to test my laptop (all together and CPU and GPU alone) and see if it's power consumption while idle and under gaming is normal and stable. I watch many youtubers showing a clear graphic very easy to read showing it. What software do they use and how do they convert to such easy readable graphic? For example GamersNexus's video about the 3090 Ti. Source of the screenshot: (EVGA RTX 3090 Ti FTW3 Review & Benchmarks: Power, Thermals, & Overclocking - YouTube) I was told HWinfo64 would help, but I don't find how. Any advice / tutorial?

Well, thing is, even the most basic game makes the CPU go that high, and it doesn't go down unless fans go full speed (even at this point temps dont go below 63°C and I'm pretty sure hotspot are higher) . To play with such temps or having the fans at full speed isn't a solution. My temporal solution is just to not play. How do I measure power drawing / watts? Using the micrometer depends of the store. I'll ask them in advance. I'll try to contact MSI . If the thermal pads are in decent shape, then I'll ask at the store to reuse them. I have no idea if the store uses this. I'll ask as well. Any advice on the Cooling base? Since it is probable this laptop will be used afterwards on a 35°C highly humid location. I was thinking if a cooling base will help.

Hi, My laptop really needs a CPU and GPU repaste, since CPU is reaching temps over 70C by just opening a game (any game) and the GPU some 67C or more depending on the game. Since the only offical MSI service store says it will take them two weeks to do this, I decided to go to a well known local store. But I was thinking what are the best thermal pads to replace the actual ones (almost 6 years since laptop's production) and the best thermal paste. I was offered this options: Cooler Master IC ESSENTIAL E2, EVGA FROSTBITE 2, Cooler Master MASTERGEL PRO, Cooler Master MASTERGEL MAKER. Which thermal pad do you recommend? Is the thickness standard or should I ask MSI for such information? Which thermal paste do you recommend me from the list above? Do you recommend any other thermal paste better than those in the list? I was also thinking on buying a laptop cooling base, which do you recommend? Thanks.

Have you tried running 3Dmark tests? Specially Fire Strike test. With it I discovered the latest Nvidia drivers were (partially?) the cause of those drops on fortnite.

Wow. Seems like now many many ppl is having this issue. Mine began last year and with each update (from nvidia and fortnite) it becomes worse and worse. Just out of curiosity, have you run some test lik 3DMark's tests? I discovered (thanks to my laptop's manufacturer) that the Fire Strike test results were almos 20% worse with the latest drivers than the drivers of 2020. Here is what I 've tried to "solve" this issue:

Hi. It seems more and more ppl is having this issue. It all began on march or april last year. My only "solution" was to reinstall some old driver to have a playable game, it isn't as smooth as it once was. If you want to see what I've done until now to try to solve this issue here is link:

Hi. I also have that issue (since march or april 2020) here: you can see what I've tried to solve it:

Browser, version and OS: google chrome, Version 95.0.4638.69, windows 10 home. (uptodate) Steps to reproduce/what were you doing before it happened? I was attending a lesson on a google Meet with the camera and microphone off. Besides chrome I had Word open editing a file. the Laptop was unplugged: using the battery on energy-saving-mode (Laptop is over 4 years old). I rarely used the laptop unplugged. What happened? I noticed the battery was depleting very fast. All the sudden, the laptop turned off without any message indicating low battery level. It didn't turn on again until I plugged the charger (the battery was at 27ish % charge left). After that, the laptop worked normal but the camera didn't work. And whenever I joined a Google meet, the light indicator besides the camera didn't turn on and instead it showed my screen as if I were sharing my screen. What did you expect to happen? 1. To turn again on with the battery since it had over 25% charge left. 2. The camera would work after restarting windows again. Link to a page where it happened, if applicable: Screenshots of the issue, if applicable: Any other relevant details: I tried opening the camera app on windows and get this error: 0xA00F4244<NoCamerasAreAttached>. If it's a cloudflare error, what was the ray ID from the bottom of the error page?

I thought the same.

The laptop wasn't on. A detail I forgot to mention, the pop sound was "like when you press a plastic bottle with a thumb and then release it".

Hi, Some four weeks ago a friends laptop made a pop sound (twice or three times) after connecting it to the power supply. Some context as he described it: The night before he used his laptop ( not connected to the power supply). After he stopped using it (still with charge), he left the laptop on the table disconnected, although the power supply was connected to a generic ups. That night there was a heavy thunderstorm. The next morning he connected the laptop to fully recharge it and after some minutes he heard two or three "Pop" sound coming from behind the laptop. The thing is, his laptops works as intended and he continues playing/working/editing with no issues. He even run some tests after that issue (3d mark and some others). All results are as good as before. So the thing is. What was that? just some non damaging static in the air because of the thunderstorm? A serious thing that luckily didn't fry the laptop? An issue he has to further investigate to see if something or the whole laptop is about to go kaboom? If the last one is a probability. Any advice of how to self identify it or just turn it to a repair store?