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Inzen

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  1. Hi! I'm looking to buy the laptop Gigabyte Aorus 15G KC and noticed that there are models that seem to have the same spec but slightly different model number and EAN. Any idea what the difference may be? I tried googling but found nothing. 8EE2130SH with EAN 4719331952914 price about 1700€ and 8DE2130SD with EAN 4719331955441 price about 1300€ - 1400€ Edit: I actually noticed now that the cheaper does not have an OS, Could that be the only difference? Edit2: I found out the cheaper one has German keyboard layout, I think that's all. I think I managed to answer my question with the help of my supplier.
  2. Front intakes are 2x Arctic P14 PWM PST Top exhaust is Fractal Design Dynamic X2 GP-14 or Dynamic GP-14 Back exhaust came with the case, some 120mm CoolerMaster fan with clear blades. Thx for the tip. I was guessing the same. I achieved 20 degree Celsius drop in temperature on the GPU when I opened the side-panel, CPU didn't care much, maybe 5 degrees. This was under load. Because of this it seems the case is quite airflow restricted. (GamersNexus review said the same). So now I'm looking for a replacement case. CPU cooler upgrade can wait a bit.
  3. Two of these https://www.kingston.com/dataSheets/HX432C16FB3_8.pdf Kingston HyperX HX432C16FB3/8 8GB 1G x 64-BitDDR4 3200 CL16 288 Pi DIMM At the moment I'm leaning towards a different case. System gets quite hot with side panel on. Temp is fine without side panel but still loud. Fans. Are the ones I have. But I can exchange them If I need. The dude I bought it from is a reasonable guy and is willing to buy back parts or the lot if needed. P.S. My room temp is around 25 degrees Celsius, If that is relevant.
  4. Just to clarify. Did you remove the button(plastic part you press) or the PCB with the 3 micro-switches? If you removed the plastic button only you can probably press the micro-switch with a blunt toothpick or something similar. Don't poke it with anything sharp like a needle. The switch dome should be in the middle of the hole. If you lost the PCB try buying new one, should be a couple of bucks from china. Shipping will take a while tough. This is probably a bad idea, you may kill your phone completely: If you really need to turn it on NOW and you have taken out the switch pcb, you could try shorting switch pins on the main board. Terrible idea unless you have nothing to lose. Switch PCB should look like this, for reference only:
  5. Hi! I'm looking for a quiet cooler upgrade for my recently acquired PC. The stock cooler too loud for my liking, I did what I could with fan-curves. I wanted to go with a noctua NH-15 or something similar but the big noctuas dont fit my case. Any recommendations for a quiet cooler? Air and AIO are both fine. I live in Estonia/Europe and I think price should be around 60-120 euros. Thanks for your time! PC info: CPU: Ryzen 5 3600X 3.8 GHz MB: MSI MAG B550M Bazooka GPU: MSI RTX3060 Gaming X 12 GB Case: CoolerMaster Masterbox Q300L Additional fans in the case, all tuned to run ~50% rpm. 2 x 140mm in front for intake 1 x 140mm exhaust on top of cpu 1x 120mm exhaust behind cpu
  6. 1. Budget & Location 1750 EUR (up to 2k if really needed) Estonia, Europe 2. Aim Gaming. World of Warcraft. Hoping to do some VR later. HL: Alyx I do some hobby level cad and coding. But I think any gaming system will handle that. 3. Monitors Main: Samsung LC27HG 27" 1440p 144Hz Freesync 2x 60 Hz 24" FullHD monitors in portrait. Gaming is done on main monitor, side monitors for looking up stuff and background stream or video. 4. Peripherals I have all I needed 5. Why are you upgrading? My old machine is 8 yr old now and an opportunity presented itself. I have been wanting to upgrade for at least a year. Maybe not the best time, but I don't see it getting better any time soon. I got a quote for the following system from a friend that professionally assembles and sells PCs. To me personally it looks good but I'm not up to speed on current CPUs, MBs and RAM (at all). Ryzen good, right? MB: MSI MAG B550M Bazooka AMD B550 CPU: AMD Ryzen R5-3600X 3.8 GHz GPU: MSI RTX3060 Gaming X 12 GB RAM: G.SKILL Aegis 3000MHz 2 x 8 Gb PSU: CHIEFTEC 650 Watts 80 PLUS GOLD RGB SSD: KINGSTON 1TB M.2 NVMe 1700/2100 Case: Thermaltake Versa H17 Window Including Win 10 Pro and assembly/testing 1960 EUR P.S. He's buying my old PC for 320 EUR so that will bring the price within budget. Old PC:
  7. Hello! If you have the time and willingness I would apreciatre some input on this build. Mostly if it makes sense and the parts have decent compatability. My sister asked me to look after the build process, but to be honsest im out of the loop on components. Thank you for your time. Budget (including currency): ~ 800 € Country: Estonia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Mostly gaming. Only game he says he had issues with is https://www.satisfactorygame.com/. And he may want to do some light OBS recording for fun. Other details Going to buy next week some time. Hes monitor: BenQ ZOWIE XL2411PBenQ ZOWIE XL2411P and a TV 1360x768@60Hz 60Hz Old pc: Intel Pentium G3258 ASUS H97-PLUS Motherboard 8,00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 665MHz (9-9-9-24) probably Kingston 3072MB ATI AMD Radeon R9 200 Series (Gigabyte) 223GB KINGSTON SV300S37A240G (SATA-2 (SSD)) + a pair of 150GB HDDs Proposed new build: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX AMD Ryzen 5 3600 (6c12t, kuni 4.4Ghz, 32Mb) – Box WD Blue SSD 3D NAND 500GB 2,5inch WDS500G2B0A MSI Radeon RX 580 ARMOR OC 8GB 256BIT 2HDMI/DVI-D/2DP CORSAIR 8GB DDR4 DIMM 3200MHz CMK8GX4M1Z3200C16 X 2 CORSAIR Builder Serie CX650M PSU CP-9020103-EU NZXT H510 Side window, valge/must, ATX, toiteplokk included No CORSAIR ML120 120mm Premium Magnetic Levitation Fan Dual Pack
  8. This projector awesome enough that I finally made a ltt forum account.
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