DailyProcrastinator

This may sound weird but worth a try, it has worked for me in the past. Power off the monitor, unplug it from the wall, and after doing so hold the power button on again for 10 seconds. Then plug it back in, and see if you are back to normal. Sometimes electronics get overloaded and the capacitors need to be drained. This has worked for me especially when I was frequently trying different display outputs and powering the monitor off/on very frequently. Worth a shot here, not a guaranteed fix though, but it does no harm.

Lets wait for the reviews to confirm if this will even matter

No problem! Happy to help!

Sometimes it is as simple as the port compatibility, some may not have the same display standards, although it would seem unlikely. Other times hardware just can act strange.

Yes it will fit, use PCPartPicker to confirm compatibly of parts! PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU Cooler Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler $33.99 @ Newegg Case Corsair Carbide 175R RGB ATX Mid Tower Case $59.99 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $93.98 Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-09-03 18:45 EDT-0400

Easily, systems do not draw at full load all the time, even when gaming. I got about 10min out of my 450W unit when I had a power outage earlier this year with an R7 3800x, 1080Ti, with tons of storage and fans, as well as my 34" UW monitor. Your system under real world max load only would draw like 280-300W anyways, and that is not sustained. So no concerns here!

Doesn't quite work that way. That's like a new Ferrari coming out and expecting a car person to know exactly how it drives on a specific track without them having actually driven it.

Yeah I have a similar preference Tactile > Linear > Clicky. Although I am not a clicky fan and I prefer heavy linear switches over something like a Cherry MX Red. I too ordered C3 Kiwis, excited for those to come in! I will likely Solder them into my 90% keyboard. I have a set of Zealios 65g right now, and yeah, they are currently the holy grail IMO. I was the same, the Gat Blacks I got with my GMMK have begun to change my opinion, still not better than tactile but actually tolerable for typing IMO, I have a wireless MX Red keyboard that I only game with and that is all I would tolerate with that switch. Where as a heavy linear switch feels smoother to me. Yeah unfortunately that they only go for 3-pin, but I too understand their logic. The GMMK for the price is actually a great buy IMO, just not the full custom keeb satisfaction of course, if you had to pick ONE custom option this would not be it. I require a numpad and function row as well, so I use my 65% KBD67 MKII in tandem with my Corsair K70 which I have now reassigned many keys as macros. I kinda like the dual keeb setups now TBH, but for aesthetic purposes I prefer a single one and I could not use a 65% layout for work. I am looking forward to finishing my 90% Tofu96 but there is an alternative. Go for a 75% layout, there is a lot of options out there in that size. And get a 20% num pad. I have a few examples linked in that spread sheet. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15IkyXUfMoV0boJ-nxkL2juAXbzxKH8xrOGnfJ3rSlk0/edit?usp=sharing Here is another option from KBDFans (no hot swap): https://kbdfans.com/collections/diy-kit/products/kbd75v2-custom-keyboard-diy-kit https://kbdfans.com/collections/diy-kit/products/gb-kbdpad-mkii-mechanical-keyboard-kit Or from KpRepublic you could do the same thing but have them install the hot swap sockets on the PCB: https://kprepublic.com/products/xd84pro-xd84-pro-custom-mechanical-keyboard-kit-75-supports-tkg-tools-support-underglow-rgb-pcb-programmed-gh84-kle-type-c?variant=31408374480989 https://kprepublic.com/collections/cospad-xd24/products/cospad-20-numpad-xd24-xiudi-custom-keyboard-pcb

Try different display ports on the GPU and check if there is a refresh rate setting in the monitors on board settings.

Large case so it should not be an issue here. How would we know this info?! Be patient, no one here has the answers, we are guessing. Just wait for reviews.

First make sure you have the latest GeForce drivers installed. Then try the following two options: Within Nvidia control panel, manual select your resolution (1920x1080 for you) and they Refresh Rate should now be able to be changed. OR Do into Windows Advanced Display settings for your monitor, select 'Display adapter properties' and under 'Monitor' set you Refresh Rate.

Motherboard has not bearing on GPU size limit, case does though.

How about we just wait for reviews. Problem solved, right now this is all guesswork. Not like we can buy now anyways.

If you are just gaming do not bother IMO. Is your 8700k overclocked?

Sh!t my bad lol, I forgot which is which.

What GPU are you using? Are you going into your display settings?

Speaking on personal experiences here. So this is my experience and opinion and others may not agree, but this comes with 7+ years of frequent PC building for myself and friends, and experience with nearly every platform within the consumer enthusiast space. PSU - EVGA and Corsair (high end gold and platinum models) just A+ quality and warranties to stand behind it. I've heard bad and good about SeaSonic (issues with their Focus Gold series) but have only used one PSU of theirs so I'm neutral to them. BAD exercises with Bronze Thermaltake units. Here I trust the PSU tier list though, Tier B or better and you have a good unit on your hands (linked in my signature). Motherboard - Asus, best stability and bios in my experience and opinion, used both with AMD and Intel. MSI seems okay as well but not my preference. I personally will not touch Gigabyte, one very bad experience and RMA process, that was years ago though, they seem good and I would recommend many of their products just not personally a brand I want to own a motherboard from. GPU - Asus and EVGA, EVGA has phenomenal Customer support IF you ever have to use it. Asus products just seem like good quality with regards to GPU's. I'v eonly owned GPU's from these two. RMA process with both in the past, but happy with the end result, although EVGA did better overall. Storage - WD Black is my go to NVME, competes with the high end overpriced Samsung BS without the unnecessary price premium. Seagate for mechanical HDDs, bad experience with WD HDDs in the past. I have used a lot of Crucial SSD products as well due to the excellent $/GB ratio and they have worked issue free as well. RAM - Corsair, G.skill, Crucial, Kingston, can't go wrong with these, haven't personally used the more budget brands. I have had 2 RMA's in the past one with Crucial one with Corsair, both were quick easy with no BS. Air Coolers - Cryorig, Noctua, Be Quiet, Cooler Master, personally have used multiple options from all and was alwasy very happy. Liquid Coolers - Corsair, NZXT, and Arctic make solid products. I have had issues with cheap Cooler Master AIO's in the past. When it comes to liquid cooling cheap is cheap. Fans - Corsair ML Pros or Noctua NF's aaaaalllll the way. For budget PWM RGB the DeepCool RF120 5-pack is great value though, I was impressed for the price. Case - Fractal Design and Phanteks make the best consumer cases IMO. Just great thought put into the deisng and good build quality. I know people knock Thermaltake but I have also liked many of their cases that I have used in the past. I would like to use a LianLi case in the future though, they seem highly regarded in the community. Monitors - I think I have been lucky because I have used so many different brands issue free, never a single RMA. My favs overall though have been Asus, Dell, LG, and BenQ. But I have used Viewsonic, Samsung, and Lenovo displays as well without any complaints or issues. Peripherals (Keeb & Mouse) - Logitech and Corsair have been solid to me on both mice and keyboards. Corsair is obviously more gaming oriented but I really like my Scimitar Pro and Ironclaw Wireless mice. The best value MMO gaming mouse is the UtechSmart Venus, amazing value and options nothing beats it for $40-50 IMO. Gaming keyboards are okay overall, switch quality and feel is nothing compared to custom though. The best value I have got out of a gaming keyboard was a Logitech G610 w/ MX Browns, it was such a good deal and other than fancy RGB my Corsair K70 Lux really offers nothing more for double the price. I've also used many non gaming products from Logitech, customer support was great in an RMA process and I have really liked many of their products over the years.

Welcome to the forum! Use HWMonitor64 instead of HWinfo. Go from there, but I mean low is good Ryzen LOVES cool temps. EDIT: Disregard, forgot what I was referring too.

PSU should be okay here. That's a good 1080p gaming monitor but the 3070 is going to max that thing out easily. I'd say look at used 2080 Supers in the coming months or wait for a 3060 which is probably going to provide 2080S level of gaming performance for $350-400USD. And is still mega overkill for your existing setup. Unless you plan on getting a higher refresh rate 1080p display (240Hz+) or go for 1440p (144Hz+) I would say that the 3070 makes no sense IMO if you do not plan to upgrade you monitor as well.

Just stay on the Intel platform, go with a i7 9700, they are better for gaming and Adobe still prefers Intel anyways. I would look at the used market. Otherwise I would also look at the used GPU market in the coming months, should be able to get a 2060S or 2070S for a real good price, the higher cuda core count would be beneficial for sure. And yeah, as you mentioned a new PSU would be a must at that point as well with more power hungry hardware. 650W is plenty. Refer to this list: I recommend Tier B or higher if possible and 80+ gold or better would be great as well.

Welcome to the forum! Second monitor should not have any bearing on the main displays FPS. So to clarify with your main display (BenQ XL2720) you are using display port, correct? And you have enabled the 120-144Hz refresh rate that the monitor is capable of via the Nvidia control panel? V-sync is of in games?

It would probably take nearly a year before we see 30xx mobile series GPU's anyways, still a good buy for now.

No problem! Glad it helps haha, and all of this info should be relevant as of right now, list was made about 8-6 weeks ago. In red text I highlighted some of the 'negatives' of each option for newcomers to custom mechanical keyboards. I just got into this bottomless pit of a hobby myself, dived head first haha. But I may even just expand on this list to include more options within given keyboards sizes/layouts. As of now I am still waiting for my order from KpRepublic to arrive, and a few group buys elsewhere. Another great option to order from is KBDFans but they are a pretty popular site so stuff is often hard to find in stock. I got two DIY kits from them and am hugely impressed so far, the overall shopping/ordering/info providing experience with them is a lot better but there is a price premium. They do offer cheaper options with plastic cases vs anodized aluminum, but again stock is an issue, and they don't have a hot swap option in a 90% or full size layout. But they too offer assembly so if you are set on a switch type you could have them solder them in, hot swap is nice though. Do you have a switch preference? Tactile, Linear, Clicky? This is a great vid if you have not already seen it. My first dive into different switches was with the GMMK Fullsize, being a long-time Cherry MX Brown user I decided to change things up and went with Gateron Black (first linear switch I really liked, heavy weight makes up for the lack of a tactile bump), Kailh Purples (just started trying these out), and their sample pack. Otherwise if you are sourcing parts yourself here are a few recommendations. - Go for 5-pin switches, especially for a hot swap socket this provides more stability. I would say it is noticeable over a 3-pin switch IMO. - Screw in stabilizers are basically a must IMO. GMK and Cherry offer good options from basically every retailer and the price premium is neglible may $5-10 more over basic PCB mount stabs. - Lube your stabilizers, switch lubing is not really a requirement, and it takes a lot of time. Plus any keyboard you have used in the past has never had lubed switches. But stab lubing makes a big difference, it is easy as there are few parts to lube, and smoothness + noise level changes a lot. You can look up guides on YouTube, even just dielectric grease works. Good luck!

What PSU model? What monitor do you have, what is the refresh rate?

Welcome to the forum! Trust me I went through this extensively a few months back. The best option would be the GMMK Fullsize, and its actually is a solid keyboard. Good build quality with a healthy amount of switch options that won't break the bank. The alternative is a PCB that you solder hot swap sockets onto the PCB, and if you want you could even get assembly service done so that you would not have to do it yourself. KpRepublic has some options that could work, the also offer assembly, customer service is meh if you have a slightly involved question, but if you got the following it would be straight forward. PCB - Hot Swap Socket - Case+Plate - Stabilizer From here you would just need the switches, keycaps, cable, and optionally RGB LED strip for under-glow. When I went through this process I started a spreadsheet to help me keep track. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/15IkyXUfMoV0boJ-nxkL2juAXbzxKH8xrOGnfJ3rSlk0/edit?usp=sharing Might help you out.