Wyre

In the past LinusTechTips did a simulated R5... and it turned out to be spot on. This is the reason why I am recommending the R3. It performs quite well, and if the price leaks are correct this will be a pretty hardcore part. 8GB of ram should be enough to get started. Like I said earlier in the thread. Just watch for if the memory is B-Die Samsung modules. Pick the least expensive B-Die memory and go from there. They all perform very similarly.

My 1600x did not. Another good reason to look at the NON X SKU parts.

Look at it from this perspective. The R7 1700, 1700x, and 1800x are all basically the same chip... they all overclock to about 4GHz. So why buy the most expensive one when a little bump in clock speed is all that is needed. I won the R5 1600x that I have in my main machine - otherwise I would have gone for the non X SKU, and overclocked it. It really makes no difference in the long run. Chose your core count, thread count, and then pick the cheapest one. From there it is all about getting the most from your system. As far as overclocking, just get your system built and then open a thread like this one... I am sure that there will be plenty of people willing to walk you through the steps of overclocking.

Doesn't matter if you plan to overclock

4core 4thread R3 would be fine, the only real difference between the R3 1300 vs R5 1400 is SMT (8 thread across 4 cores, instead of 4). 2x4GB memory for dual channel. just make sure that whatever memory that you get... it is samsung b die. It still has the best compatibility even after the latest firmware updates from AMD.

I would imagine that the R3 processors would come with a cooler... Personally I do not have any brand loyalty, I like price/performance... The R5 1600 is a huge step over my heavily overclocked i5 3570k that I just retired. There are a few R3 reviews where someone has disabled a few cores, and turned SMP off so that they could show (in theory) what the R3 would be like. Personally (especially if the leaked prices turn out to be true)... that will be the best bang for the buck. That will put you into a very modern platform with a good upgrade path for later upgrades... like pulling the R3 when you have so more dosh, and grabbing a R7 1700!

Wait a few days for the release of the Ryzen R3. The Ryzen R3 1300x is a 129.00 USD part. Add a nice B250 motherboard, and a bit of DDR4 memory, and it should fit your budget. "The more powerful AMD Ryzen 3 1300X will have four cores clocked at 3.5Hz base, 3.7GHz boost clock, while the AMD Ryzen 3 1200 will have four cores clocked at 3.1GHz base, 3.4GHz boost. They will allegedly carry price tags of $129 and $109 respectively." ~this is leaked information - may not be super accurate. AMD Ryzen R3 1300x (4c/4t 3.5GHz/3.7GHz boost) $129.00 ASRock AB350M AM4 AMD Promontory Mainboard $62.99 Ballistix Elite 8GB Kit DDR4 3200 - BLE2K4G4D32AEEA $103.99 (This is Samsung B Die memory, and has the best compatibility with the Ryzen processors.) Total $295 But this would give you a pretty serious upgrade path. The Ryzen R3 are set to release on the 27th. That is just a few days from today. If you do plan on overclocking the R3 1200 may be the better option, and will better fit your budget of $250. AMD Ryzen R3 1200 (4c/4t 3.1GHz/3.4GHz boost) $109.00 ASRock AB350M AM4 AMD Promontory Mainboard $62.99 Ballistix Elite 8GB Kit DDR4 3200 - BLE2K4G4D32AEEA $103.99 Total $275.00 That would be my recommendation.

It is probably time to send them into the manufacturer for repair/replacement.

These are the only ones that I can think of... Anyone else can chip in with corrections/additions. Corsair: 600C 600Q SilverStone: Raven TJ06 TJ07 RV02 FT02 TJ11 AvP: Commander x8 X-Striker A5 Wolverine Raijintek: Thetis Lian Li: A05 V1200 V2200 BitFenix: Prodigy M

If they work wirelessly I would imagine that there is nothing wrong with the internal components such as the drivers, sounds like either the jack, or the cable have failed. Try a different cable to see if that clears it up, if it does not - you may need to return them for repair/replacement.

Ended up buying the fans that I dont like... but at least they are not puke and brown colored. Noctua NF-P14s @ 1200rpm

That fan will not fit my application. It is a 140mm fan, but the screw holes will not line up with the holes in the case.

Already way ahead of you, there is no vibrations in the case when I shut all the fans down. I know that at least one of the fans is completely gone, the bearings are dead. Just need better replacements than the 7 dollar trash that came in the case.

The vibrations are dependent to fan speed, I would imagine that if my two HDDs were causing this much vibration that they wouldn't be functional. It really is a very serious amount of vibration... One of the fans is already making the growling noise of a failed bearing.

So, I have built a bit of a Frankenstein case. It started out life as a 330R Titanium case with a damaged case side this was purchased for 11 dollars. Then I replaced the damaged case side with the windowed panel from a 300R, this cost me 20 dollars. So I have a very nice (if slightly odd) Computer case that now has another issue. The supplied fans are terrible... I mean god awful pieces of trash. At 900 RPM they vibrate hard enough to set up resonance on my desk. So I am in the market for a full set of fans (6 in total) I would like to go PWM, but that isnt really necessary as the motherboard has built in voltage control for DC fan speed control. Currently I am looking at the following fans: Vardar F2-14 : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072BWC5W4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AVGUSX8EUG9VS&psc=1 Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-PS Black : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZXZ996G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AEELF2HAVZFED&psc=1 The NB-eLoop B14-PS is 30 dollars each, but the EK fans are 40 for 2 fans. I do not like the look of the Noctua fans, and two of the fans will be mounted in the window for everyone to see... So, I am really not interested in the Noctua fans. Really wish that the Gentle Typhoon was made in a 140mm variant... alas it was never to be. Please give me some ideas, I have been looking at 140mm fans for three weeks, and I am starting to get a headache. Thank you for your time.

https://clips.twitch.tv/PoliteColorfulGooseJonCarnage Amazing end to an epic run!

If it is a fake, it is a very good fake.

Ryzen 5 1600X w/ Zotac Geforce GTX 1070 No OC on CPU, or GPU Next will be to delve into the dark and forbidding world of overclocking to see what this system is really capable of.

Quite a lot - computers are a bit of a hobby for him... and one that he doesnt pay close attention to. Fine with me as every time he screws up and orders a wrong part, or decides that a particular project is going to be too difficult.. I usually reap the rewards.

Well, maybe not an idiot... but he does have more money than sense.

Sometimes it is good to have friends that buy stuff without really looking at what they are buying. One of my idiot friends bought this motherboard to build an Intel system... I bought it off of him less what he would have paid for shipping etc. So, it was 130 for me. Same friend that I bought two R9 290x Gigabyte graphics cards from because he decided he wasnt going to bit coin mine... bought the cards from him for 200 each.

I appreciate that, when I bought that PSU a couple of years ago, I checked on jonnyguru to ensure that it had been beaten on , and that it would stand up. It has been rock solid, even when running two R9 290 cards at one time... I am pretty sure that probably stressed it a bit.

According to MSI it is verified to 3200. It has the Samsung B-DIE chips, and is single sided... best thing for the Ryzen. Model number F4-3600C17D-16GTZ DocSwag the PSU model specifically is : SST-ST75F-G

Silverstone Strider Gold 750watt edit: Model number SST-ST75F-G

Already have the motherboard, waiting on the other parts. The memory was FAR more expensive than the motherboard.