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Sazexa

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About Sazexa

  • Birthday Sep 22, 1993

Contact Methods

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Connecticut
  • Interests
    Computers, photography, automobiles, aerospace, engineering, construction, audio gear, and more.
  • Biography
    Hey there. I'm an electrician residing in Connecticut whose just as interested in technology as you.
  • Occupation
    Electrician

System

  • CPU
    Intel i7-6950X
  • Motherboard
    ASUS Rampage V Edition 10
  • RAM
    Corsair Dominator Platinum DDR4 32GB 3,00 MHz
  • GPU
    GTX 1080 SLI
  • Case
    OpenTestBench
  • Storage
    Intel Series 730 480GB SSD, Western Digital Black 6TB
  • PSU
    Corsair RM1000X
  • Display(s)
    Dell Ultrasharp U3415W
  • Cooling
    EKWB Custom Loop
  • Keyboard
    Ducky One TKL
  • Mouse
    Corsair M65 RGB
  • Sound
    Schiit Audio Bifrost & Asgard 2
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 64-bit

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  1. The Xbox One X will run games at 4K. I don't want to scale down at all. I'd rather just have a 4K display. lol
  2. The 2715K is definitely cool with it's 5K support, but, when gaming at lower resolutions (like 4K or even lower) I've heard countless times that scaling introduces input/processing delay, which I want to keep as minimal as possible. It's cool that the 2715K is so cheap now though. Amazon had it listed for I think $1,300.
  3. That's a bit too large vertically for me. I'm currently using a Dell U3415W, which is a 34" 21:9 screen. It's height is equal to a 27" screen though. I don't want anything bigger than 27" in 16:9, and basically want something with equal-to, or greater, color accuracy in 4K compared to this monitor. This is a great monitor, but the curve throws off some of my photos, as well as since it's so large the light/color dispersion doesn't always seem accurate.
  4. Well, I suppose seeing as I don't really want to spend up to what the cost of the UP2718Q is, I'll say $2,000 since that what it supposedly costs. I suppose if the difference between HDR and standard viewing isn't vast or that necessary, I'm okay without HDR if it means saving a lot of money and still having really good color accuracy/coverage for photography.
  5. Hello everyone. I'm looking to get a new monitor. I want something between 24 and 28 inches diagonal screen space. I'd like true HDR/HDR 10 support, as well as 4K (3,840 x 2,160) at 60Hz. I don't need anything higher than 60Hz. The monitor will have two uses primarily. The first use, being a photography editing device. My laptop currently has a NVidia GT630m, and I don't think it supports true 10-bit end-to-end, or HDR, work flow. But I'll be getting a new desktop (or lapto) soon and I'll be sure to grab something that supports it. The second use of the monitor is going to be gaming. The response time is good enough, as I don't really feel too much difference on anything under 6MS response time. But I am very perceptible to input lag. If the display has input lag of more than two frames, I usually feel it and get pretty aggravated. I plan on using it with the PC, as well as with the new Xbox One X when that releases. So far, the only monitor I've found that hits all the check boxes is the Dell Ultrasharp UP2718Q. It seems to me though that there isn't a lot of information about the monitor yet, and it's very pricey. I'm only starting to actually sell my photography, instead of doing it professionally. I'm basically looking for more information on the UP2718Q regarding it's input/processing delay, and I'm also open to suggestions that meet the criteria mentioned above.
  6. That's also true. One of the motherboard's ports does both SATA and PCIe
  7. If the Mac Mini was a bit taller and didn't have an Apple logo, I'd likely consider a used one for a case. I don't think that photoshop and lightroom gain much from GPU's. My laptop has an NVidia GT630m, but before it ran off Intel integrated graphics. The newer chip didn't seem to boost it much. As far as the looks, I'm considering getting a custom glass or plexi panel made for the top, as it will be visible from my seating position. So internal aesthetics are a bit important. I mostly chose the NVMe drives for the space saving aspect. I have plenty of 2.5" SSD's laying around (a few Intel and Samsung ones), but I don't particularly want to use them if I don't need to. More clutter in the case. I can always add more storage to my NAS as well. I don't think 16GB is overkill. Perhaps the speed/frequency, but, aside from paying more for looks it's nothing crazy. And again, I'd like the system to be relatively fast for what it is, just without the use of a dedicated GPU.
  8. Hello everyone. I'm starting a new build soon, and the purpose of this one is mostly focused on smooth, fast photo editing and work. I'm going with a small system because I'd like to maintain as much desk space as possible, but not something as small as a NUC or embedded solution, as I still want the build to have some flair "under the hood." I also am not opting for a laptop as I currently have one. It's starting to show it's age in the sense of photo editing, but, I'd still rather use a desktop. The secondary useage of this PC will be just typical stuff, such as browsing the internet, streaming music/videos. I've considered the aspect of gaming, but sadly I don't have time anymore, so, I think I'm going to opt out of a dedicated GPU. Basically, all I need this machine to do is photowork in Lightroom and Photoshop (at 3,440 x 1,440) and stream music at the same time, while being somewhat quiet. That will likely be it's highest load. I'm looking for a few pointers on parts, so, I'll delve into it. Case - Realan E-W80 This case is pretty interesting. I learned of it a few days ago and fell in love. I'm a big support of ITX, and it's hard to get much smaller than this case. It's a 200mm wide, 225mm deep, 80mm tall case. It does have support for two 2.5" drives or one 3.5" drive. It has two USB 2.0 ports, and a very clean exterior. A large portion of it's casing is ventilated to allow decent airflow and heat dissipation despite it's size. It uses an external power source with an internet DC power distributor. A big part of the reason I want this case is because it will blend in and stack perfectly well with my DAC/amplifier (Denon PMA-50). I would be able to place the case directly on top of it and it would be marginally smaller. CPU - Intel Core i7-7700T I'm not dead settled on this choice. I'm still considering just the regular i7-7700, or even the 7700K. The 7700T seems like a smart choice, given it's incredibly low TDP of only 35 watts. It's still a quad-core chip, with eight threads, and 8MB of cache, just like the other two. And though it should definitely run cooler, it's only clocked at 2.9GHz turbo to 3.8GHz. I think I'll be able to cool either a 7700 or 7700K (not overclocked) without much issue, but it might get a bit noisy. I like the idea of the 7700K simply for it's ability to overclock should I ever do so in the future. Motherboard - ASUS STRIX Z270I I'm very partial of ASUS motherboards. And I really like the design of this one. It features pretty much all the features I want/need, and will allow me to use higher frequency RAM. Plus the RGB LED's will work with the selected case in a manner than will act as an accent light to the power LED. The board features WAN, which I'll need, a plethora of USB ports, two M.2 storage ports, and plenty more features. I also appreciate the robustness/reliability of ASUS STRIX/ROG boards. I suppose I should consider the H270I and B250I, but I'm put off by the lack of +2,400 MHz RAM support and the missing VRM heatsink. RAM - Corsair Dominator Platinum This one also boiling down to aesthetics. They're a little bit pricey, but the heat spreader of the memory will match my case flawlessly. I'm debating between a 32GB or 16GB kit, both at 3,000 MHz and 15-17-17-35 timings. I'm leaning towards the 32GB kit so I don't have the urge to "upgrade" in the future. But I don't think with my photo editing I'll ever really use more than say 12GB or so. I've maxed out my laptop before, but it only has 8GB. Storage - Samsung 960 Evo I've chosen a 1TB Samsung 960 Evo as my go to choice. I already have a NAS at home with about 7TB of storage in it, so, I don't necessarily believe I need a lot of storage on the PC. Though my photos do add up quick, I can store or archive them on the NAS. At the same time, I'm wondering if it would just be better to go with a smaller capacity, faster drive then. Something like the 960 Pro. The 2TB and 1TB 960 Pro drives are a bit out of my price range. I won't be using any 2.5" drives or 3.5" drives inside the system, to help minimize heatsoak inside the case, as well as keep power draw lower, and allow more room for airflow. Cooling - Noctua NH-L9i I've picked out a Noctua NH-L9i for the build, as I have one on hand. I used it a few years back on an i5 CPU and it did a pretty good job. Noctua recommends the use of 91W or less on Kaby Lake CPU's, with proper ventilation. I'd say that's being a bit generous, as the cooler is better than the stock Intel cooler. I'll be upgrading the fan from the 92mm x 14mm on it, to a 92mm x 25mm Noctua Redux B9 fan. Partly for aesthetics, but also for better cooling potential. Power Supply - ? This is the part where I'm looking around for some serious recommendations. The case uses an external power supply, to deliver in 12V DC power. The company offers a few different distributor boards. One of them goes up to 250W. I know my system will likely only pull around 115-130W maximum, but, I'd like to have as much headroom as possible. I'll be purchasing their 250W distributor board, and I'd like to find an external power brick to match it. I'll also likely do some custom wiring as well. The stock wiring comes with what seems to be pretty low gauge conductors, and a lot of parallel runs. The Basically a SATA plug, 4-pin EPS, 4-pin MOLEX, and 4-pin Floppy all parallel off the 24-pin ATX cable. I'd like to copy the pin out, subtracting the connectors I don't need, and putting in thicker gauge wire with custom sleeving to make it look nicer on the inside as well. Part of this will be changing that 4-pin EPS connector to an 8-pin set, just to ensure the CPU gets all the juice it asks for. So, that's pretty much all I've got for now. I'm considering some small touches too, like re-soldering the power LED from blue to a pure white one. I also like the idea of replacing the top panel that hides everything with a glass panel. Looking forward to some feedback.
  9. I like that green and purple build. Finally got my panels in. Last teaser picture, I'll take more once it's finished.
  10. So I ended up buying the 2009 Audi S5. It has 88,000 miles. Car runs and drives excellently. It's likely got a small leak on the oil filter housing, so probably just an o-ring. And I don't remember the name of the part, but something towards the front wheels that help reduce road vibration needs to be replaced also on both tires. It's not dangerous though. The interior is very nice, though I'm scouring eBay for a replacement driver seat back, since the previous owner scuffed up one of the side bolsters on it pretty well. Myself and a couple friends worked on a muffler delete this weekend, and the 4.2L V8 engine just sounds soooooo good! We were thoroughly surprised. I'm not really tempted to do anything else to the exhaust, as it's plenty loud now. I'd like to do an intake, a really nice tune, some coil-overs and sway bars. And maybe in a few years once it's paid off a supercharger after building it up a bit. It needs some exterior touch up paint, but other than that, the car is in near flawless condition. Planning on getting the RS 5 honey-comb style grille and fog-light bezel, and, maybe some tires and wheels for the summer. Also once the brakes get more worn, some drilled and slotted rotors to top off the look. Does anyone know of any good sites for aftermarket parts for the car? I know there isn't many as far as I've seen.
  11. They're made by Nanoxia. They're the "CoolForce" aluminum cable clips line. Expensive, but very good looking. And you need a 2mm Allen key for them. I also changed my PCIe power runs to Bea bit cleaner.
  12. Here's a picture of one of my previous builds, in an NCase M1, using EK's ZMT tubing.
  13. So my glass panels for the case came in. Here's some more pre-finished shots. All my parts should be coming soon that were getting cerakoted. And I'll be pre-building the loop using PETG, mailing it out to Mayhem's, and they'll make glass tubes to mail to me pre-shaped.
  14. EK ZMT ("Zero Maintenance Tubing") is rubber-based I believe. No plastisizer.
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