Slimyhead

Sooo, as everyone so far knows and may have installed the new update (that means me as well) and for probably most people no hitches right? Well in my ("minor") case it looks like I am the one among those other 100s of thousands facing problems. http://www.kitguru.net/gaming/operating-systems/matthew-wilson/the-windows-10-anniversary-update-is-causing-problems-for-some/ For me outside of gaming, I have basically no problems so that's good. But when I play games like TF2 and CS:GO (Admittedly the only "major" games I play atm till next month due to "reasons"), I get 190fps in the menus and upon ACTUALLY playing the game, idk what the hell just happened as my fps suddenly vanishes from a good 40 minimum and 70 average (Pre-Update) to SINGLE DIGITS and it lags like hell along side with the loud stuttering audio. Not sure what to do atm.......(Lol, Oh well back to Windows XP Pinball I guess )

Sorry abt that. Will try to fix.

Well Hi everyone. As of the time I released this forum post, It is my Birthday today (18yrs by now) on April 19. I wanted to share some more concept ideas I had in mind as I have seen not many people in most forums or rather none have made a list of cool stuff to be attempted/shown in the future. At least the forums I have been to(like 7-12 forum sites). Google and Youtube didn't show anything much at times either. You might some stuff interesting here. I've spent quite some time working on this so hope it's worth it. Feedback needed. Take your pick & maybe suggest your own ideas if you want. List of sites that I referred to: http://www.kitguru.net/components/graphic-cards/anton-shilov/msi-rolls-out-limited-edition-geforce-gtx-980-ti-with-copper-cooler-factory-overclocking/ -For this particular Paragraph: (The "spark" of the cooling concepts I had in mind) (The decision to use copper radiators is a debatable one, keeping in mind the fact) (that while copper quickly absorbs heat, ) (it does not quickly dissipate it, unlike aluminium, which dissipates heat rapidly. ) (Practically all high-performance coolers use a combination of copper & aluminium.) http://koolance.com/cooling101-heat-transfer (Helped me to understand "which metal does what" better) http://www.tweaktown.com/news/49967/twin-stack-cpu-cooler-weighs-gigantic-2-6lbs/index.html http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/asrock-develops-mini-itx-lga2011v3-motherboard-with-quad-channel-memory.212204/ Gaming Mice and keyboards: -What do you think of adding a Micro-SD slot inside a Mouse/keyboard? -Is there any RGB keyboard that can run via a P/S2 connector? (No lag and looks beautiful in the process) -How much power does a P/S2 keyboard consume vs an RGB and USB model? Watercooling: -Watercooling a heatsink/an air cooler from its heatpipes. It was somewhat inspired by those ROG Posideon GPUs unintentionally. (so you got yourself a computational kraken with 6-10 glowing light blue tubes & fluid in them) (or it could be a bit more digestable to look at if it's attached to those low profile coolers with 2-4 ends of the heatpipes at the sides of the fins.) -Covering the waterblock's Micro-Channels with a certain amount of aluminium or using a Aluminium Cover Plate on the copper for better temps in the inside while the water carries it off. (Why? Since aluminium is a good heat dissapator & water helps to carry it away very quickly, it could work like in a submerged mineral oil rig) (Plus Less Anti-Corrosive/Algae agents have to be used as you are technically not mixing metals in an AIO like this) -Another Alternate method for metals used in a WC loop-->> Heat source-> Copper waterblock -> Aluminuim Micro-channels -> Coolant -> Copper Radiator -> Aluminium coating on the copper fins -> Exhuasted hot air+Lower temps Watercooling Side Questions: -What temps & acoustics would I get if I were to attach a TITAN X/R9 290X (or any GPU) with: * a 540mm Radiator in Push-Pull (Biggest Radiator I heard of so far) * Min & Max speed using fans from:- * Noctua/Be Quiet! to Corsair SP140/Cooler Master Silencio FP140 to Jetflow 140mm? -What is the best 120mm slim rad/single fan AIO out there? -How much would I get out of a GPU with a Phase Change cooler attached to it? Air cooling: -Limited Edition recycled silver heatpipe heatsink with it's fins made out of aluminium with a silver/copper lining beneath each fin. (Heat at the bottom will rise quicker this way due to copper/silver and get removed faster by the aluminium) -Heatsink with 50/50 aluminium and copper fins for Increased TDP and performance in a smaller form factor (For e.g: A heatsink with 100 fins would have 50 fins out of aluminium & the other 50 out of copper alternating each other) (Cause if I were to make my next build, I'd prefer the same performance of this cooler in a smaller version) ( http://www.tweaktown.com/news/49967/twin-stack-cpu-cooler-weighs-gigantic-2-6lbs/index.html ) Air Cooling Side Questions: -Does a basic copper heatsink compared to an identical aluminium heatsink (In dimensions) require fans with slightly better static pressure? -If Noctua and Be Quiet! collaborated on a laptop cooling solution? (Apart from Linus's Ears being at peace forever) Mini ITX-Motherboard Concept: (This is what I actually want out of a solid MOBO) -Clean BIOS Layout plus rock solid reliability -Switching the Standard DRAM DIMM slots to SO-DIMMS to save space & allow more DIMM slots/fan headers/SATA, etc.... (At least from entry-level boards onwards. Personally, I would use it til flagship Micro-ATX boards as I find it laughable that Mobo manufacturers find it difficult to save space) (well atleast that's what ASUS said on the page for their Maximus 8 Impact Motherboard....) (Only seen 1 SINGLE MOBO that has this & it is an AS-Rock M-ITX server board of sorts) http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/asrock-develops-mini-itx-lga2011v3-motherboard-with-quad-channel-memory.212204/ -Ditch the SATA Express as we had boards from Z87 with this & it's still taking so long. Probably swap them with USB 3.1/Thunderbolt 3 headers inside to make it more baller. (U.2 Header will also do well for those Intel 750 SSD users) -All outside connections are Thunderbolt 3, USB 3.1 Type-A, HDMI, Mini-Display-Port, P/S2 Ports, 10-Gig Ethernet -Mandatory Upgardeable Wi-Fi built in -Additional pins in the CPU socket for bonus stability when Overclocking (If required) -Great On-Board Sound Card (Good thing that is standard these days.) -M.2 Slot below the Board or even 2 of them. (1 above & another below) (standoffs will be provided) -Usual Stuff & Software Gimmicks in the box plus a PCIe 16x riser card & a Fan Hub Module Storage Side Questions: -Is it possible to Cache a Cache Drive with another Cache Drive to create a cache circle/chain? (Or Cacheception... cough.. cough.) -How would those SSHDs react with a cache drive linked to them? Like using those Sandisk Readycache SSDs. Power Supply Units/PSUs: - Hoping that Higher wattage & performance Units such as a 850W-1000W Gold unit come with an option to use some power from them for directly powering displays(like the basic monitors), case fans, RGB lighting strips (It should all be fully controllable through software/firmware) Software: -I was thinking if a Dedicated OS for Purely Benchmarking things like CPU, Storage, RAM, Graphics, VR/3D testing, Overclocking etc. should exist considering the amount of such benchmarks out there but straightaway realised what's the point as anyways you can do a lot of things inside most MOBO BIOSes these days. (Valve could give the Steam OS a booster with this one and I think I should make a poll for this one....) Internet Related: (Troll idea maybe/maybe not) -Running Crysis 3 or other Demanding games inside Google Chrome or other web browsers (Not enough internet & RAM. R.I.P All Internet Peripherals/Devices of all types when doing this+ Data caps+Internet Speed+Web Browser+Your PC itself ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ ) (P.S: That is just Barely the loading screen ) (Wait till you touch the Witcher or even METRO series.) (That is so going to set your house on fire if not nuke it. ) Build Logs I'd like to see how it looks like IRL: (Mainly Example builds) This Section Features build that I want to see OTHERS to try out. Not me. -Silent Gaming Computer with all BLACK coloured parts. For e.g: Project Blacked-out >Parts to use: Case: Deepcool Dukase Mid Tower Case MOBO: Z170 SLI Plus/X99 Godlike Carbon RAM: Corsair Vengence LPX 128GB (16GB*8 DIMMS) kit all slots populated (When using X99 platform) (OR) Corsair Vengence LPX 64GB (16GB*4 DIMMS) kit all slots populated (When using Z170 platform) Storage: Every Type of consumer grade storage possible and available on this planet. (Can never have enough fast storage. ) HDD 1: WD Veloceraptor 1TB HDD 2: WD Black 6 TB HDD 3: WD Black2 1TB+128GB SSD (That 2-in-1 hard drive which you can just google about it.) HDD 4: A 1TB 10000RPM SAS Drive (Already Pretty Expensive now right? Storage master race material right here.) ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) SSD: Samsung 850 Pro Evo 1TB SSHD: Seagate 4TB SSHD M.2 Drive: Samsung 950 Pro 512GB Cache Drives: Any cheap 60GB SSDs for the 1st 2 drives PSU: Doesn't Matter as long as it can power everything and has all black and flat cables. Probably try to hide the large label showing out at the side of it. CPU: Intel i7 6700K/5930K/5960X or the upcoming Broadwell-E CPUs GPUs: 2 or 3*ASUS Strix GTX 970 in SLI CPU Cooler: If Watercooling = Corsair H110GTX in Push-Pull If Custom Watercooling = All black coolant with black waterblocks. If Air Cooling = Be Quiet Dark Rock Pro 3 Fans: All of them are Be Quiet Silentwings 2 fans. Lighting: Keep it a dim white colour at the bottom of the window or even off completely. -"Lightweight-Heavyweight" SFF Gaming PC: Objective of this Build is to be literally lightweight & easy to move around while cramming in some of the best high tech stuff available at the moment of this log. Speaking of which, what is the lightest possible Watercooled (Both CPU & GPU) build that people can make? Parts to be used: Case: Cooler Master Elite 110 ITX Case Mobo: MSI Z170I Pro Gaming AC CPU: Intel i5 6600K (It's a small case so gotta show some leeway here.) CPU Cooling: Corsair H75 (Both fans used) GPU: AMD R9 Fury Nano (It's small and ballin') SSD: Samsung 950 Evo Pro 512GB M.2 NVME drive (The GPU & the SSD are the main kicker here to this. You will be ONLY using the SSD for everything) RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16GB*2 Sticks PSU: Seasonic 650W SFF Gold rated, Modular Power Supply Mods Done: Adding a DIY Carrying handle on one of the sides of the case. Build Log Side Questions: -Does anyone have a Full Fledged AMD FM2+ System running in Dual graphics mode & a High-end Discrete AMD GPU SIMULTANEOUSLY? To put this in perspective for e.g.: AMD A10-7870K APU+ R7 250 In Dual Graphics mode & a R9 380X in a ASUS ROG Ranger FM2+ Motherboard How's the overclocking? -Is it possible to CFx 2 R7 250s and the iGPU of the A10-7870K? Products I would like to see new revisions/improvements of from specific companies: Corsair: -That H90 Liquid Cooler is all alone & sad... Might as well give it dual fans, a "slightly" thicker radiator & RGB Cooler Master: -Buff the Elite 130 Mini-ITX case. I would like to see a front 140MM radiator support along with different mounting brackets for those neat SFX PSUs. -The above includes the Elite 110 as well. Needs more space for cable management anyways -The V8 GTS Air Cooler. Add RGB & make the middle tower's fins out of copper. Could help with performance. -Add RGB to their new air cooler, The MasterAir 8. Everything else seems decent on paper.

well there's that.. but I'd rather prefer the natural rubber that mousepads have as they feel nice for me plus that stuff (plastidip) is somewhat non-existent around here. Edit: *locally. derp

Hey guys, Is there any sort of "Re-peel-able textured Rubber cutouts" that you can use to apply on anything? I was not able to properly google this stuff as it showed only stick-on mousepads and desktop skins instead. Okay, forget cutouts, more likely rubber "Sheets" instead For e.g, my Razer Deathadder mouse has only glossy plastic at the sides and I want more grip so I stick this stuff on there and move on.

Alienware Command Centre. It's more of a neutral to lightly sour and buggy relationship on my laptop (Alienware 14x R1) just so that I can properly use the FN key to remove a CD from my optical drive and turning off the keyboard lighting to save a few mins of battery life. Since my computer is kinda slowly dying (The HDD crapped out and had to be replaced 3 times. Ouch) and play like basic Valve titles such as portal, tf2 etc. I decided to uninstall it and now stuck with a permanent green backlighting.

Not really but only read about it slightly

Q1) Has anyone tried to install all versions of Windows (from the 1st Windows OS to windows 10), Added Ubuntu and Hackintosh on a single hard drive? (If it's possible. Just curious really.) -Space Taken Along with Installing all the recent updates? -Time taken overall? -Partitions required? -How's the experience? -Issues to deal with? (apart from the security updates from XP and below)

Considering all this external GPUs are some of the next big things in the future for laptops (and eventually might become a rage who knows.), I began to ponder what to do if I were to make Improvements to the current stuff like the Razer Core for e.g. (Only Example I know of.....) regardless if the technology is available or not. Here are some of my suggestions for a more "Deluxe" version/versions: Deluxe (Modest) -Room for AIO watercooled GPUs like the AMD R9 Fury X and the EVGA Hydro GTX 980 Ti - 2 Thunderbolt ports so that the 2 computers that have Thunderbolt can utilize the same GPU simultaneously. Even when Gaming. (To give the GPU some space, The Resolution will have to be dropped to 1080p or 900p (Still better than 720p) or it might go tripping balls) (Yes, This does negate what I just wrote earlier but whatever.) Expected Price: $550 U.S Super Deluxe (Silly) -External GPU 2-way SLI/CrossFire X and so you'll clearly need two Thunderbolt 3 Cables to be plugged in your machine. Otherwise it can be used like the normal Razer core without SLI/CFX and each PC gets their own E-GPU while the box gets hidden easily in a place with good airflow. -You Can attach a 240mm AIO to the GPU (Like by using those special GPU mounting brackets for e.g. NZXT Kraken G10) for better performance and overclocking. (1 GPU only inside the Enclosure) Price: $650 (This does have SLI/CFX Support. Even then you can always build your own) UBER (Seriously stupid) - Just Enough room for a Pair of Custom Watercooled GPUs -A 3.5 inch Internal drive slot that can also accomodate two 2.5 inch drives and an M.2 NVME SSD (RAID Ready) - A pair of 10 Gig Ethernet Jacks -You'll need a machine with 4 thunderbolt ports like the Mac Pro. (It actually has 6 but you get the Idea) Price: $1000 What do you guys think and what would you do?

Thanks . Now I just need to find a way to clean the dust beneath the rubber at the switches area. My laptop Vaccum cleaner didn't help out with that.

Personally, I would say "slightly". If I were them they could just ask the forums. I am actually looking for a thread where people are giving workshop submissions. I am having 3 ideas now with case fans: -Case Fan Model Plane -Case Fan R/C Hovercraft -Case Fan Air Hockey Puck

Hello there. As the title says, I need help for cleaning my gaming mouse (Razer Deathadder 3.5G 3500DPI max), my mousepad (a Razer Kabuto) List of Issues: - Mouse : -Cleaning the Rubber coating safely(without damaging the surface) while maintaining the grip. I know how to clean the side plastics. -Removing dust and grime stuck on my scroll wheel and between the plastics, switches and the rubber bottom part. (Not sure how to exactly call it apart from "gap") (Main drag is that I don't want to remove the mouse feet as I can't buy (Forget buy. More like "can't find") direct replacements for it in Chennai, India(I Live here). So I want to keep using the current ones. If I can, I would look into it. Has to be cheap and effective though so I can pass this mouse to my relatives if they want in the future while I get a new one) -Mousepad: I tried looking online for cleaning these things but could not find one for my mousepad in particular apart from the Goliathus mouse pad (I use a Razer Kabuto cloth mouse pad) Last time I tried cleaning mine, I just simply used water. Is it fine or I can/should also use detergents like mild soap?

Yeah my net is 75mbps But....... So sorry if this breaks your style. This happened some time back in my Grandmum's house with a 512kbps that was tripping balls (the 20GB data cap for the 4mbps ended quite fast as 5 devices were using it at once brutally). I was downloading a few game patches when this came out of nowhere in real time as well..... *I could say Gaben blessed me but then I'll feel stupid. *Enuf Internet Speed to run Crysis 3 INSIDE Google Chrome *Grandmum's Wifi is too Stronk

Well this my net connection (actual is a 60mbps up/down) But....... This happened some time back in my Grandmum's house with a 512kbps that was tripping balls (the 20GB data cap for the 4mbps ended quite fast as 5 devices were using it at once brutally). I was downloading a few game patches when this came out of nowhere in real time as well..... I was not sure what to even say afterwards ..... *I could say Gaben blessed me but then I'll feel stupid.