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Chipset

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  1. But you need a high enough voltage (100+) to let enough current pass through the resistance of the skin to be dangerous. "It's the amps that kills you" is technically correct but dangerously misleading if you don't understand electricity.
  2. NO THAT'S NOT HOW ELECTRICITY WORKS AMPERAGE DOES NOT KILL YOU NEED VOLTAGE OF WELL OVER 100 VOLTS TO DELIVER ENOUGH CURRENT TO YOUR HEART TO HAVE ANY EFFECT LOW VOLTAGE CANNOT KILL EVER GAAAAAAAAH
  3. Unless you open it up and/or poke around inside it while it's plugged into the wall then absolutely no. Even the charged electrolytic capacitors aren't very dangerous when the device isn't plugged in. Contrary to what anyone will tell you, the amps are not the killer. Technically the amps are what kills you, since amperage is the measurment of the actual flow of electrons, but just because something can deliver a shitton of amps does not mean it's dangerous to a person. Skin and flesh has a resistance to the flow of electricity, the epidermis (outermost skin layer) is especially good at this and can provide several million ohms of resistance. Ohms law (V/I=R) says that at a given voltage, the resistance determines the amperage. Thus, touching a car battery fully charged to 12 volts with a typical skin resistance of 100k ohms, you would only have 120µA flowing through your body, more than 100 times smaller than the 20 or so milliamps needed directly across the heart to cause ventricular fibrillation. Keep in mind that for an electric current passing through your body to be seriously harmful or lethal, it needs to pass vital organs or your nervous system/brain. For this reason, arm to arm contacts are most dangerous, that's where you touch one polarity with each hand so the current passes through your chest. Excluding extraordinary circumstances, no voltage below about 30 volt can possibly be dangerous to a person and you need to get upwards of 60-100 volts before there's ANY kind of danger. The only time where voltages lower than about 100 volts can be dangerous or lethal is when both of the points of contact bypass the skin, as flesh and tissue have much much lower resistances. When contacting the skin, voltages over about 50 volts can cause slight discomfort or pain, voltages over 100 volts can be very painful and are potentially dangerous and voltages of about 200 volts or above are potentially lethal. Any voltage over 100 volts should be treated with respect, as if it could kill you, to prevent any accidents. Voltages over about 200-300 volts should be treated with extreme caution as these could potentially be instantly lethal, depending on the way you contact them. But back to the subject at hand, a charged electrolytic capacitor, even those big ones inside a PC power supply used for smoothing rectified mains voltages simply does not contain enough energy to kill a person. You'll get a hell of a shock if you bridge the connection with your finger, you'll get a burn mark and you'll be feeling it for hours, but you won't be dead. This is because the current drops off too fast as the capacitor discharges through you. An analogy would be that flicking your finger through a candle flame won't burn you because the contact time isn't enough, there's not enough exposure time to heat up the skin to give you any burns.
  4. I can't reply to comments so don't use the comment system for replying. You pretty much already stated the reason, the ups gets a change in voltage and obviously doesn't react to the changes fast enough to ensure 100% clean output, but still fast enough that it doesn't cause any problems to connected equipment. The resulting drop/spike in the ups output has the effect on the psu that it causes some of the coils to whine. This really isn't a problem besides the fact that it's annoying, there is no need to be concerned for your ups or psu. As I said if you wanna get rid of the whine, you need to put some hot glue or silica gel on the inductors to dampen the vibrations to make it not audible anymore.
  5. The term is "Coil whine" or "Coil noise" and you can read up on it here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coil_noise Basically the inductors in your power supply are resonating causing audible sound. You can fix this by opening your power supply and putting a blob of hot glue on each the large inductors.
  6. I very recently built a couple of routers using the Chieftec BT-02B and it's quite nice. Comes with a 180w psu which is probably a load of crap for anything more strenuous than like playing video but chieftec is a reputable enough brand that they probably didn't put the very cheapest one they could find. As long as you stay well within that 180w you will probably be fine. The case has a single 80mm fan slot in the front and two 60mm in the back, not terrific but I fitted one 80mm in mine and it's probably fine. The entire thing is cleanly styled so you should be fine on the looks requirement. Also it's not very expensive as far as mini-itx cases are concerned, and considering it comes with the psu that's some added value. I might as well say, I put an Asus C8HM70-I in it, it's a mobo with an integrated celeron 847 which is basically a dual core atom with integrated gpu AFAIK. After some reading about it I doubt the gpu is up to par for HD video though so I don't think I can recommend it for your purposes.
  7. They have fans so of course they mane noise, how much noise will usually be specified by the manufacturer on their website or on the product page of vendors that sell the item. I'm pretty sure acoustic noise is measured in a standardized way, but I don't know. To give you an idea of what the specified figure will mean, 40db is basically inaudible, 50 is audible, 60 is slightly loud, 70 will make you wanna kill yourself if you have to live with the noise day in day out. Of course if it is too loud fans can always be modded to a lower voltage. Still it's worth mentioning that if it's consumer level equipment (which this UPS certainly appears to be) it's almost always gonna be pretty quiet. Only times nowadays when manufacturers make equipment that's really loud is for use in data centers and server halls where literally nobody will give a shit about the noise.
  8. Not really in terms of electricity bills but the added quality of having a genuine 80+ bronze cert means it'll probably last longer than a psu without 80+ cert.
  9. You'll be fine. People who are all "onboard sound is the WORST EVAR" are idiot audiophiles who know shit about audio. Onboard sound is gonna be fine and it'll sound fine and you probably wont have any problems. If you do take great pleasure in music and want something better, get an http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/JDSLabs/O2_ODAC/ O2 amp + ODAC combo and never worry about the source ever again. The O2 amp + ODAC combo is completely transparent sound, it outperforms all headphone amps on the market under $1000 and is accurate to the point where only precision measurments can detect faults in it, no human ears can. People who tell you otherwise are lying shitbags who don't know audio. Basically get that and you won't have to get a new headphone amp or dac in a very, very, very long time.
  10. You're not gonna find a 5v battery, batteries have a really wide voltage range depending on charge and the rated voltage is the nominal voltage. example, a 3.7v li.ion battery is 4.2 volts fully charged and close to 3 volts discharged. How about you say what you're gonna use it for and I can help you find a better solution?
  11. Huge cases are a pain in the ass FYI, I couldn't live with one for more than a year. Pain in the ass to do anything with it because it's so big and heavy.
  12. http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/C...es/instpsu.jpg http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/C.../HAF_XB/5.html
  13. Expensive cases are rarely - if ever - worth it in my opinion, you're just paying for a bunch of features you'll never use in a sleek looking metal box that nobody but you will appreciate or care about. It's nothing but a hollow meaningless penis extension essentially, you buy it to boost your ego. Sooner or later you'll realize just how pointless it is and how much money you wasted on it. Or you go the smart way and buy a $50 case that has only the features you need in the practical reality and that doesn't look like complete arse and spend the ~$100-$200 you save on actual better performance components. Or on a gift for your family/friends/spouse, or on charity. Anything better than a pointless ego boost.
  14. That entire thing is horribly unsafe. Exposed wire splices right next to mains, different wire gauges, terrible solder connections and that second psu board doesn't even look like it's attached to anything. I admire the enthusiasm but you clearly don't know what you're doing, I strongly advise you to give up on this before you get yourself electrocuted or find an educated electrical engineer willing to do it for you or to guide you step by step. I might be up for that if you're hellbent on continuing this, but I'd rather you just buy that adapter off of amazon.
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