VoyexTech

That can do everything that you stated in face it may be Overkill in some senses.

So, you're not looking at a new GPU either? Also if you don't care about the RGB aspect of the lights NZXT has some nice single color led airflow fans for around $15-20 a piece which might help you same some

These are my personal choice for fans they are relatively quiet and provide good airflow idk about static pressure though (not an affiliate link):https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007WR0FP4/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1511803753&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=nzxt%2Bfan%2Bpressure&dpPl=1&dpID=41YpHI6kriL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

As long as it's a 2.5in drive it should work fine but it may melt some internal components. So it will void your warranty to use the 7200rpm drive. It's really up to you if it's worth it.

While I should probably expect this especially considering how much I modified my hotend. I bought an e3d v6 hotend a few weeks ago: http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-3mm-Bowden And I ended up breaking the nozzle and losing the heat break. So I replaced the heatbreaks and nozzle with 1.75mm variants and then ran 1.75mm filament through it. It seems to work for a little bit and then after a while my extruded like the stop extruding. The issue seems to come somewhere from the heater block area of the hotend. If I pull out the filament, cut off the end and put it back in it works for about 15 again before I have to repeat this action and I'm wondering what this could be... As the same block + nozzle + barrel (heatbreak) worked on direct drive setup.

Ah thanks

You make a valid point.

I would like to follow a few specific tags on the forum not an entire topic and I'm wondering if that is possible?

Ok I'll try it out. Thanks!

I have an MSI H81M-P33 https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://us.msi.com/Motherboard/H81M-P33.html&ved=0ahUKEwja0ZPk_9jSAhVJB8AKHaZpBmwQFggaMAA&usg=AFQjCNEttRCmT1OaCLadyiMynfrgWvC85A&sig2=_RI9DzSZbOM8W75uGk9eRw

I'm using the Noctua NH-D15 CPU cooler and I will try adding some sort of mat to help with vibration

I clean out the dust yester and that's didn't help. A fan optimizing program might be a good idea and all my fans are new. Thanks for the help!

So I understand why my computer is loud... mainly because it has 8 fans (if you count the GPU, CPU, and case fans). All of these fans running cause my computer to vibrate quite a lot. This makes my PC so ungodly loud that it can be heard 2 rooms away. Any ideas on how to get rid of the vibrations?

It's fine thank you for your help!

I changed the cable and still got this screen only:

Here's the temps (everything seems normal enough though):

Hello! I have an odd issue with my dad's PC which is an HP Envy h8-1534. The computer occasionally won't wake from sleep (usually every 4-5 days). And it occasionally (2 out of 3 times) it won't boot as it gets stuck on the BIOS splash screen and won't load Windows 10 and I can't access the BIOS. I thought it was a HDD issue as it wasn't consistent so I got a new HDD and reinstalled Windows 10 and sure enough the issue still persisted. Any ideas? I'm completely stumped.

I am switching to Bowden because I have excessive ghosting and my corners are terrible and I have to print at 20mm/s so I want to switch to Bowden to fix this also my entire direct drive extruder setup has the weight of 2 nema 17 stepper motors which is excessive. I was at 1.75mm filament but I moved to 3mm so I can print some flexible filaments at least. Plus my new Bowden setup weights less than half of a stepper motor.

I'm currently switching from a 1.75mm direct drive setup to a 3mm Bowden setup for my 3D printer. I have a 3mm e3d v6 bowden extruder and I have changed my slicer settings for filament size and got the new extruder mointed. What calibration do I need to do besides what I already mentioned and retraction distance?

I did alot of looking around and you can smooth PLA with chloroform or ethyl acetate and other polar solvents. Although ethyl acetate can create white marks on the print. Overall chloroform looks to be the best option but I need a license to get it so...

I use blender. It is a bit harder to learn but it is very powerful and it's completely free

But I ordered it in early December...

ABS Pros: More durable that PLA, Higher glass transition temperature (so less chance of melting or becoming soft in a hot car), more flexible than PLA, can be smoothed with acetone, can be dissolved with acetone (allows for cleaning of blocked nozzles and heatbreaks) Cons: hard to print, requires heated bed, needs to be printed in ventilated area (smells bad), can't use a cooling fan, prone to warping PLA Pros: extremely easy to print, can use a cooling fan, doesn't need a heated bed, makes rigid parts, foodsafe, biodegradable Cons: low Glass transition temperature, parts are relatively weak compared to other plastics, susceptible to moisture (requires it to be stored away from moisture and kept with silica gel), is hard to dissolve (can be dissolved in chloroform and possibly in ethyl acetate), hard to post process because of low Glass transition temperature and other properties (you should use wet sanding). There ya go! P.S. ABS is also susceptible to moisture but much less than PLA

I agree PLA is way easier just remember you need a heated bed for ABS prints (run it around 90°). The Anet A8 had a heated bed so no worries! Also don't use a cooling fan on ABS

Good luck with your printer! I'm waiting on heat breaks for my e3d v6 to arrive from china *sigh* I didn't want to pay the premium from e3d but now I've been waiting for a month and a half :(. Good news is that it comes in on the third.