Emillionaire

Hi there, I took over my brothers old PC, which has a i7 7700k paired with a Corsair H115i. I took it apart and gave it a bit of a clean form dust etc, and gave it a factory reset. However after installing Corsair icue (mostly for light in the keyboard), i've had problems with the fans throtteling up all the time. I've then set my own fan-cuves in Corsair icue, as i understand it now controls my fans, but it seems like it detects the wrong temperatures. As you can see in the picture below, it reads the temperature of the I7 7700k-package to 79* Celcius. I dont understand that though as the CPU is not under load (only in idle), and its neither warm in the room, and its a water-cooler on a non-overclocked CPU. I then instead installed Core Temp, just to make sure. And Core temp only indicatesd that each core is around 35* celcius, which makes more sense to me. (see picture.) I guess the conclusion then is, that iCue is messing with me. But i have no idea how to fix it, or any alternatives to controlling the fans in iCue. I tried going into the BIOS and changing settings there, but that doesent change anything. I didn't build the PC back then, so i dont know how the fans are set-up. All I can see is that all fans (2x front intake, 2x top exhaust with radiator and 1x exhaust at rear), are all plugged into a FAN-hub on the back of the case, which is a Phanteks Enthoo Evovl with tempered glass. (see the picture below) Anyone with experience who can help me out with what is possibly an easy fix? After i restarted the PC and installed Core-temp, the fans does not even follow the fan-curves in iCue either. Is it the 2x different softwares/bios conflicting perhaps?

Hello, Currently looking to buy a ROG Strix B550-F mobo, as its on sale, with a Ryzen 5 5600X. I can see that there is Kingston FURY Beast RGB DDR4 3200MHz 16GB (2x8 gb) on sale as well - but when i look at the mobo QVL-list, i can't find the product number (KF432C16BBAK2/16). The closest thing i can find, is the HyperX Fury, HX432C16PB3K2/16. I remember HyperX being made by Kingston - therefore wondering if its just a naming difference. Will it work anyway, or should i find another pair of ram?

Hi, thanks for the feedback. I think i'll keep it then - i can't find any noticable cheaper, which is not TP-link, and i've had alot of issues with them in the past, and so has friends of mine. Thanks for the help!

Hi there, I'm moving to a smaller studio appartement on 50m2 (500sqft?), where the building provides a fiber connection, so i had to buy a router instead of having one provided by my ISP like currently. The purpose for the router is to distribute the internet from the ethernet-input from the wall, to my pc through a CAT6-cable, as well as give WiFi to my phones. I'm completely lost on the subject, so i just went online and bought the Asus RT-AX58U, as i wasent the cheapest i could find. However i wonder if its, a bit "overkill" for the purpose, since its such a small appartment, and only few devices use WiFi. My thought was, that i was afraid, of my ethernet connection being slowed down, if i used a cheaper router/bottlenecking, but i dont understand anything about the market, or networking in general - and it seems quite hard to get a quick understanding of. Would anyone recommend buying a cheaper router, or getting something else, for such a small place? Thanks to the people out there, helping out us hopeless people on these subjects!

Now i understand. That makes sense, thank you for clarifying.

Then how is the draining bulk cabs relevant?You're implying that the faulty PSU is from my actions, but from your comment I do not understand how. I never turned off any running electronics off manually from the PSU-button, wall outlet or anything else than through the OS. I have simply, when all electronics were turned off, also turned off the power. (two or three times max, even.) I can't why that is treating the PSU badly, when that is the same case every time someone moves their pc.

I never flipped the PC on the PSU to turn off the PC. What was referring to was that i flip off the outlet, in order to turn off other electricals connected to the outlet. @Jonnyguru, I never thought that turning off the power, when the pc is turned off, would damage the PSU, but thats it the case you say?

True that! Saddens me however, i've had alot of failed components over the years... Could this be prevented from my side? If the RMA will not cover, should i stay away from certain brands? I bought a platinum certified PSU to prevent in order not to end in this situation haha.

Take better pictures, write more info in listing ect.. Make sure the price is realistic..

No, sadly not. Do you have any theory in mind?

All right. I noticed now, that it got a burning smell. Is is likely that the RMA will cover?

Yes, that is on the first breaker as well. It was however put up by a former electrician. My TV (with ect.), lamp, ect. are connected to the same breaker as the first. But the problem still occurs when all of that is turned off. Yes, everything else works like it should. I called my dad who was a electrician decades ago, and at first he said that it could be damaged wirerering. He also seems confident that the PSU is causing it, but neither of us have that much understanding about the PSU, and what could have caused it. From your comments, i guess my best bet is just go try for a RMA?

Hi there, (backstory, can be skipped..) I have not been using my pc for some days, as i had just moved into a new appartment. (completely new, so all new electrics). I used my pc a bit in the beginning, but then i had not touched it for some days as i didn't have ethernet. Suddenly some days ago, when i turned on a lamp my breaker went off. I didn't think much more of it, and it didn't happen again when i turned it on again. (Present time) Now today i wanted to turn on the power to my pc, as i often turn it off to save on the energy bills. When i fliced the switch on the power-extender, the breaker went off again. When i plugged out the pc, it didnt. I quickly found out it was the pc, and my initial thoughts were that i used to much power, so i tried different outlets in the same room, but every time my PSU is connected to a wall outlet it turns off the breaker. Just by it being connected, and the PSU-button set to ON. I tried multiple cables, and also tried going to my kitchen, which is on a seperate breaker. Same thing: When PSU plugged into wall outlet, the breaker goes off. Therefore, i can't see it as a issue of drawing to much to much power, as it happened on different breakers, and therefore i can't see it being the electricals in the house being the issue. My theory is that my PSU is faulty, as i have nothing else connected to the PSU, and it turns off a breaker when connected to a wall outlet alone. Do you agree, that that is realistic? What confuses me, is that I bought the PSU, a Corsair SF600 SFX in April, and have not had difficulties with it before now. It also worked without problems when i first moved in. I don't remember changing anything from using it some days ago, where there were no problems, and now. Even though i tried different breakers, and tried turning everything off/plugging everything out in the appartment, its still the same issue. Whats your input? Bad luck and i should just RMA? Is it possible that i can get RMA, as i bought it in April? Thx.

Update - the solution: For anyone interested, or perhaps someone will find this post through search later on: I though the MOBO was dead, and then bough a new MoBo and CPU (was my next upgrade anyway). and the same thing happened!.. Only thing on the board that was the same, was the new cooler. I then tried using the included cooler from the CPU and that worked. I was perhaps not very smart, for not trying to change the cooler before, but I didn't think that a cooler could prevent the PC from powering on.. Now I learned something and is going to RMA the cooler.

All right, I will give it a shot. Thx!

Hi there, i am about to buy an ASUS ROG STRIX B450-I GAMING motherboard, and a Ryzen 3600. However, i already have RAM, and would like it to be compatible (of course), but i can't find the full product-number of my RAM on the different QVL-lists on Asus's website. I can however find one, which is quite similar. My ram product number is: HX432C18FB3AK2 (HyperX Fury DDR4 3200 Mhz 16GB) The only one i can find is: HX432C18FBK2/16 Does it have to match completely, and if so, is there anyone who can confirm for me, that the motherboard does not support my RAM? It's the only thing holding up my purchase, so any help is deeply appreciated! Thx!

Update: also checked the case power button. That wasn't the issue..

Update: I was able to short the usb-connectors which made something on the motherboard light up. But I am not able to short the Power-button connector.. this is weird.

Just did that. Still the same.

Thanks for the suggestion. Just tried it, but I didn't work.

I never changed the CPU, only the cooler. I reinstalled the cooler once again, now without tightening the screws completely, but still no luck.

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My Corsair H55 cooler was going bad, so I instead replaced it with a H60 today. After putting everything together again with the new cooler, the PC will not power on. Nothing happening when putting in the power-plug, and pressing the case button. Of course, the PSU is turned on at the psycical button, and the power cable is checked. Have used multiple cables, with no luck. The only activity in the case, is a red light being turned on, indicating that the MOBO is receiving power. I have replugged all power cables in the build, but still it won't turn on - only the light in the motherboard. I have tried jumping the connection, but that doesn't do anything, and using a different switch also doesn't change anything. Does anyone have any suggestions, on what this might be? Thanks!

What percent should the pump run at then?

But still running 3.7 GHz on turbo?