vagabond139

Those sites aren't legit. You would be paying a non legit key. That would be like paying to pirate.

They definitely do and not sure why they don't make it easy to understand and why you need their own program to get a accurate reading. Once again if that was true it would have triggered a shutdown by now, I have gone below 0C before and it caused a instant thermal shutdown. According to HWMonitor mine 860K is running at 62C right now and but the thermal margin is about ~57C, huge conflicting numbers. Which program would I trust more, AMD Overdrive made by AMD themselves who have the best understanding of their CPU's or some 3rd party..

https://pcpartpicker.com/forums/topic/142216-psa-amd-cpu-tempatures

I have actually done my research unlike you guys. The socket can easily handle way more than 62C. 70C thermal margin is a perfectly normal at idle. I'm willing to say I have the best understanding AMD temperatures here. http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-2122665/understanding-temperature-amd-cpus-apus.html

I'm not saying the max temperature is the same or even how you measure it is, I'm saying that sayings 70C isn't the max and that if it was running at 87C it would be 100% safe.

The melting point of plastic is 170C, not 70C. A CPU isn't going make the socket release fumes. That is the most ridiculous thing I have heard of.

Mind explaining how?

The 860K along with the FX CPU's use solder for TIM instead of the crappy paste Intel uses.

Its perfectly safe. If it was running that hot and 70C was the limit it would have done a thermal shutdown. Give that the thermal margin is on a scale of 70C with that being the coolest it will report and 0C being the lowest you can go safety and most people at idle will do at 70C and 21C is room temperature its safe to say that you can go 90C if not higher. AMD max temperature limit being at 70C is a complete myth based on a misunderstanding of the thermal margin.

The type of socket a CPU has no correlation to temperature. AMD uses solder because they either have sesne, want to keep their hot running CPU's as cool as possible, or something else, the type of TIM also has no correlation temperature it will all depend on the speed and voltage of each CPU in question. Given that the thermal margin is 70C to 0C with higher being cooler and AMD CPU's often running at 70C thermal margin and room temapture being at roughly 20C its safe to safe that 90C is fine and it probably could handle more than thaat before throttling or a thermal shutdown.

Its warm but a 860K should be able to handle it, Intel CPU's start getting into the danger zone at 90C and assuming the same for AMD and if the temperature is correct which its not I would say while hot its a safe temperature. How so?

What is your thermal margin? That temperature reading is 100% pointless since its not right.

That isn't too hot.

The Sytche Fuma if you can afford a extra $5. I think it might even be $50 currently. its on par or better than a Noctua D15. Its the best HSF you can buy for its price and easily is the best cooler for its price.

Lets say you overclock the CPU to 4.4Ghz at 1.3V. That would be 140W * (4400/3200)*(1.3/1.050)^2 = ~295W of power usage with it at full load. Now now lets add in the GPU's.According to Nvidia they have a TDP of 250W so that is almost 800W with the system at absolute full load. If you didn't overclock the CPU high as it could go, not sure why you wouldn't since you are on a enthusiast platform/socket, it would be probably about 650W for those 3 parts and maybe 700W at max for the whole system.

Ingore all of the tier lists, they all have gapping flaws. If you want accurate information about how good a PSU is and all of the flaws and pros it has is you are just going to have to do it the hard way and research reviews and all of terms. That Coolmaster PSU is insanely overpriced and that Astro is capable of getting INSANELY hot and has what I would call average to decent. Despite people saying 700 watts or even 850 watts is enough you will definitely want a killowatt unit for a overclock i7 5820K which is capable of using close to 300 watts itself depending on how much voltage and how high you overclock and the GPU's will do around 250Wish each so that is 800 watts just with those 3 parts. If I was you and you are in the US I would go for a kilowwatt Corsair RMx.

Yikes!!! 0C is the lowest you want to go, going below that is going into the danger zone. I would avoid putting it under any load and clean out all of the dust and replace the thermal paste in it and see if that makes it better.

I would get a Syche Fuma over the D15. It looks better, cheaper, smaller, and performs just as good if not slightly better.

The G2 for sure. Its quite a bit better than the others.

Somehow the RMi is worst than the G2 even though they have very similar performance and build quality and the RMi has a better fan and is quieter. The the current TR2 isn't a bomb, in fact its not listed which specific one to avoid. It lumps all of the CX series together, the new ones are fairly good. It has the NexB1 in it somehow even though its lacking a proper review. It doesn't differentiate between the Capstone and the Capstone G, the G one is far worst. The RM series definitely need split up since not all of them are equal. It also has all of the GS series together, the 550 and 650 watt one are on a different platform than the 850 and 1050 watt one. Also the 400 watt nothing Evga W1 PSU isn't near as bad as Logsyis units.The 750 watt GQ iirc is worst than the others so that needs to be split up. I'm sure I can easily find more flaws.

Definitely.

Motherboards can't bottleneck CPU's...

Use AMDOverdrive to get the thermal margin.

His thermal paste application, he used way too much and using that crap HSF on a FX 8350 and considering overclocking on it.

Seagate having a higher failure rate is a myth. http://www.tweaktown.com/articles/6028/dispelling-backblaze-s-hdd-reliability-myth-the-real-story-covered/index.html