vagabond139

17 hours ago, W-L said:

53 minutes ago, MadOlive said:

If you are gonna use this (or any glass for that matter) PLEASE wear proper protective gear... prefferably thick safety gloves and also glasses and a long sleaved sweater or jacket. Like W-L said if it shatter than you dont want to hurt yourself which you otherwise will!

 

Can you not sent it out to have it cut for you? idk what that would cost you but it wold probably look cleaner and you cant cut yourself. But i get you want to DIY

I will definitely use safety gear, already thought of that. I could do that but I really want to keep the cost down as low as possible and buying two sheets of glass would probably be cheaper than paying someone to do it. Plus I'm a big DIYer

7 hours ago, W-L said:

Any polymer or plastic won't be as resilient to scratches as glass since it's just not has hard as a material but if you wanted to acrylic would be your next best option. For mounting you would need to design some bolt points but very possible to do with some knurled thumb screws. 

I decide that I'm going to go with glass since it doesn't seem that hard to cut or drill into.

Would glass like this work?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/24-in-x-36-in-x-0-125-in-Clear-Glass-92436/300068389

I want to make a full, not partial, glass window for my Define S and I am wondering what material should I use to make it with. I could do Glass but that will cost at least around $100 just for it. I am wondering if they is anything scratch resistant plastic that I could use instead. 

Also I am wondering how I should mount it. I am thinking 4 screws into the corner of the case like a lot of tempered glass cases do. I would put some sort of padding around the case to protect the window.

Make sure you have a good molex to sata adapter.

The fastest RAM that is 8GB or greater. RAM speed can make a difference during gaming.

A Ek Preadtor 360, currently the best AIO on the market. Or just buy a custom loop kit from EK and replace the rad with a 560MM one and get 140MM fans.

The Fuma one of the best HSF's on the market at a unbeatable price and if you tighten it right it will even out perform the D15 by a fair amount.

The Leadex

3 hours ago, Respawnuo said:

About $50 USD but i'm willing to go a little higher or lower depending on value/performance. Probably going to get one on Cyber Monday or Black Friday for the holidays.

 

A Sytche Fuma. Also the amount of heatpipes doesn't always equal performance. The Fuma is a great example. Its capable of beating a Noctua D15 which is taller and has more heatpipes.

Define hot. If its hot to the touch that is to be expected and is nothing to worry about. Now if the VRM is running at like 95C that is something to worry about.

3 hours ago, AimlessFlame said:

Thats more than my budget allows

Its within budget.

http://pcpartpicker.com/products/case/#m=229&t=3&u=1&X=0,7645&sort=a8&s=1

There is also the Pro M which is similar to the P400 internally but has a different front, a 5.25 bay,supports 360mm rads on top, and while I am not sure I am wanting to say it has no LED controller.

The Phanteks P4000. All around better than the S340.

4 hours ago, WoodenMarker said:

The convex shape seems to be better for 115x than 2011 looking at the results from Frostytech. 

It seems like results are a bit spread out when it comes to the Fuma's performance. I personally see it as just a Ninja 4 variant with a more compact design which lends to a few differences including being louder at load. 

I would like to get a hold of a Fuma to play with but can't justify it just yet. That being said, I can say 2dBA louder isn't the best description of how it sounds compared to the NH-D15 or NH-U14S. Unlike the Noctuas, the Slipstreams included with the Fuma have a pretty audible clicking and isn't as smooth sounding.

That being said, I would recommend going with the Fuma if the pricing was anything like that in the US and the OP wasn't shooting for the quietest solution.

I have a Fuma but no other dual tower coolers or 240mm/280mm AIO coolers to compare it to unfortunately I really don't hear any clicking from the fans and they overall are pretty silent at full speed but then again I haven't measured the dba and I have a bunch of other fans.

Yes. Also the fluid inside of them does too when the performance can drastically drop off.

8 hours ago, WoodenMarker said:

I'm not seeing how it performs better than the NH-D15 or R1 while being as quiet. It often has to ramp up fans to keep up with any of the large dual tower heatsinks.

http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2794&page=6

The NH-U14S isn't far behind the NH-D14 and is a lot more convenient to work with due to the form factor. 

http://www.overclockers.com/scythe-fuma-heatsink-review/ 

According to this review its only about 2 dba louder than a D15 with both at full speed while the Fuma cooling about 4C better. In that review you linked two they didn't run the D15 at low speed. Also mounting pressure is key for its performance which is likely in the frostytech review its behind the D15 performance wise.

True but the D14 is still ahead.

3 hours ago, mpsparrow said:

What do you guys think of this cooler? It is available in the NCIX Nepean store. http://www.ncix.com/detail/noctua-nh-u14s-lga115x-2011-am2-am3-20-82802.htm

Its decent but not the best. The TC14PE or the D14 would be your best option with both getting similar performance and imo the Phanteks cooler looks better.

6 hours ago, Enderman said:

You can't run 4 fans off a single header or you will likely damage the motherboard.

You need something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/ModTek-4-Pin-Molex-Connector-Connection/dp/B00MYA3A4C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1476449090&sr=8-2&keywords=molex+to+4+fan

Or one that uses sata instead of molex.

 

I have no idea how your PC doesn't have molex, literally every single PSU for the past 20 years has had molex connectors.

That would all depend on how much amps each fan pulls. If its low lower fans that only draw like .15A you could easily run 5 without problem off a single header. Now if its a Delta fan that draws like 5 amps the header would be fried with just a single fan.

I would go for a Corsair 450 or 550 watt CXM. Both should be under $60 and are unbeatable for their price.

3 hours ago, TheRandomness said:

Tbh, that's not even good. NEX = G1 = Bad. There's a useful list btw which lots of people follow (@Allshevski):

 

Ehhh I wouldn't call the NexG1 bad, sure its not good but it definitely isn't bad.

3 hours ago, mpsparrow said:

obviously didn't see my last post

 

Oh. I would go for a Nocta D15 or a Cryorig R1 then, whichever is cheaper. Also you could try contacting Scythe to see if they will sell you one directly, its worth a shot.

A Sytche Fuma. It out performs the Noctua D15, Cryorig R1, Dark Rock Pro 3, etc. While being smaller and cheaper and about just as quiet.

The issue is your BIOS version which isn't compatible with the 6800K without a update.

The toms tier list is total dog shit, its like it was made by a 10 year old without any research that won't take advice from anyone. I would suggest either a Evga G2 or a Corsair RMx or if you are lucky and will use MiR a Seasonic Prime which is iirc the best PSU out there.

Bottlenecking all depends on the game and graphical settings. Any CPU is capable of bottlenecking any GPU under the right circumstances. There isn't a blanket yes or no answer to your question. Bottlenecking isn't something that you can instantly say yes or no to.

For $50 the 450 watt Corsair CXM, its is better than a Seasonic M12II and really any PSU in the $40 to $60 range.