Seijuro808

Yu I've tried running it at the bare minimum as listed in the original post; cleared cmos, Unplugged cmos battery, 1 ram stick etc but still only turns on but no display out. But the diagnosis led status lit red signifying is a cpu error.

Pins/socket are flawless from what I can see

Ryzen 9 3900x to be upgraded to 5800x3D ASUS x570-i Gaming MOBO Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB 3200mhz kit (2x 16 GB) Gigabyte Aorus RTX2080 Super Waterforce w/ aio Samsung 970 Evo 1tb NVMe SSD Corsair RM850X PSU Corsair 280X Case I decided to upgrade my 3900x with a 5800x3d but I totally blanked out and forgot to update my bios for the new cpu. I installed the 5800x3d along with some faster RAM and an additional 2tb Samsung 970 evo name ssd. When I had everything installed and booted up, I noticed the onboard diagnosis led was lit up yellow then stayed red, indicating it was a cpu problem. That's when I remembered that I forgot to update the bios. I figured, not a big deal; I'll just install my old cpu and ram and update it. But after doing so the red diagnosis light did the same thing and stayed lit red. Things I've tried: I've cleared the CMOS repeatedly Unplugged the cmos battery Tried running just 1 RAM stick Removed graphics card Removed 2nd SSD just in case

I noticed this for a while now, but I've been waiting to see if anyone else noticed it... but the Monoprice Mechanical Keyboard looks A LOT like the MSI Mechanical Keyboard sold at online retailers. The MSI variant is only available in MX Red switches, and comes in an LED version with the MSI "Lightning" yellow stripe, and a standard blue striped version without blacklight that is priced at $70. A friend of mines got it on sale a couple of weeks ago on Newegg for $60. Here's a link to the MSI standard mech keyboard without backlight etc. Going to go ahead and claim that MSI and Monoprice are using the same OEM keyboards haha. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823167011 Edit: Forgot to mention that the caps lock/numlock LEDs are the same blue color as well.

What h264 means by wisping is "sibilance". An example of when sibilance is easily noticeable is when you have a brand new set of headphones, and you can hear the highs have a "static"-y sound to them, almost like a radio feedback sound.

I'm using a standard 24 inch TN panel from Asus; VW246H It's been tested by the fighting game community as a sub-1 frame input lag monitor. I've been using it since the end of 2009. Another rule that the FGC goes by is "Response time IS NOT the same as INPUT LAG". Thanks for your input guys. Gonna dial them in right now.

Input Lag, the evil of all evils. I've watched Linus and Slick say in one of the live streams that V-Sync adds a lot of input lag, and I can confirm that it really does. They also stated that anti-aliasing also affects input lag. But my question is, what other graphical settings cause input lag? Going down the BF3 settings as an example: Ambient Occlusion Anisotropic Filtering Anti-aliasing Deferred Anti-aliasing Post Another thing I read a little about was triple buffering in the nvidia console menu, but I've read mixed reviews on it. Some people claiming that it helps REDUCE input lag, while other people claim that it ADDS input lag. Do you guys have a concrete understanding on this subject? I'm a seasoned Street Fighter player, and even ONE FRAME of input lag completely throws my game off, as there are commands/inputs/combos that require the correct input to be done within exactly 1 frame of the game, that runs at a native 60fps. I know it may not be that big a deal for FPS and RTS games, but I'd still like to know THE BEST settings for THE LOWEST amount of input lag. Thanks in advance for your input, guys.

Kronvict, can you see if the guy lives in the States or if he's a tech reviewer? I'm guessing the board is gonna go up this week online if someone has a retail version already. My friend and I have been pouncing on this board for over a month now... The last part to complete his build haha. Tons of parts, can't plug them into anything. Even had the Corsair Carbide 540 since Mid-June, but couldn't complete the build because of the just released ASUS GTX 780 DCU2, and Formula board.

Thanks for the input, guys. About the "ripping him off" thing, He's giving me money for the parts and labor. I initially didn't want a payment for doing it or anything since building a pc is fun to me, but of course he threw in an extra $50 for my troubles. Just searched Amazon for a 2500k, and it cost MORE than the Haswell equivalents haha.

I currently have a 2500k OC'ed to 4.5Ghz, cooled by an H100i, matched with an ASUS P8-Z68V Pro And my cousin is also in the market for a custom build. So I'm seeing this as an opportunity to pass down my CPU and MOBO and upgrade my system. My cousin isn't very tech savvy, and will be playing undemanding games like Guild Wars 2, LoL etc. So he wouldn't really care for the bells and whistles of Z87. My question is, do you think upgrading from my current system to the current generation is a good idea at no cost? I know Sandybridge OCs the best and all, but what do you guys think? I'm thinking of getting the same level of parts, just the current generation of them: i5 4670k using the H100i to cool ASUS Z87 Pro MOBO