t0mmy44

Wow what a cool comp. My favourite thing about the Z2 is that it's waterproof. That's the edge it has over most of the competition at this stage, and doesn't seem to lack anything its competitors are boasting (especially coming up to par with HTC on the front-facing speakers, bravo Sony!). dbrand, on the other hand, I have to say that given I haven't heard of them before, and the fact that I'm a web developer, my favourite thing about them -so far- is their website. It's got cool user interface elements, doesn't overuse colour, uses lighter fonts on dark backgrounds (ideal for viewing on a display as opposed to print), and to boot, it's actually PROPERLY responsive (fits pretty much all screen sizes and aspect ratios, and this is achieved in a very clever manner). Clearly a lot of thought went into its development, so A++ to that.

Cheers guys, I think I get the point. Basically for the most part there's no difference, unless you count the airflow profile out the back - which hardly matters if you're going with pull anyway.

Hey guys, just wondering if anyone knows: take any decent SP optimized fan like the NF-F12 for example. Will its static pressure (or rather, air pressure through a rad or heatsink) change, and if so, will it change much if you have it in pull instead of push? From my current understanding, this depends on the fan blade design, but most of them will have little difference. I am just curious what others think/know about this. I would imagine that a fan's static pressure would more greatly benefit cooling performance in push than in pull, but I suppose if it can push air hard it's also going to pull it hard. Hard to draw a conclusion here :\

Linus advocates Pull setups in his closed-loop watercooling benchmark videos. It makes the rads easier to clean, from his experience. OP, you won't notice much difference either way. I used to run my H100 in Push/pull as an intake in my Prodigy before switching to a (dodgy, getting RMA'd :() H80i. While the RMA is happening I'm going to put the H100 back in as an exhaust in pull only. I don't anticipate much difference at all.

AAAAAARGH I JUST WROTE A DAMN NOVEL HERE AND ACCIDENTALLY LOST IT I'M SO ANNOYED! *end rant* *begin input on topic* Just quickly, I own the following Razer products and have only one single gripe: Lachesis V1 (3 years), Orochi(1.5 years), Goliathus & Kabuto (more recent). My gripe: the scroll wheel on the Lachesis V1 (since been fixed in later versions anyway) slips sometimes. That's all. I'm probably incredibly lucky, but I don't really care all that much. The Mamba is probably my ideal mouse, and though I know that both versions have had issues, I don't mind trying my luck once more. If it doesn't work out, I can hardly blame Razer, given how much I research these things and still sometimes take the risk anyway, so I would just get something else. Having said that, I think Razer's problem is that they try to make everything. They've got headsets, speakers, keyboards, mice, mousepads, a laptop, a tablet, controllers and much more weird stuff. The key rule I follow when making purchases is to buy x peripheral from a company whose focus (or at least one of the major things that they do) is x peripheral. For a while I wanted a Razer headset. My mate talked me into an Audio-Technica headphone instead, and I'm much happier than I would have been. I also wanted a Razer Lycosa, but then the first wave of the mechanical comeback hit, and I got a Daskeyboard instead. Now I have a really good quality, functional, hardy keyboard instead of a flashy overpriced bit of plastic with a brand on it and a lighting effect. The only company I've seen 'step out of their comfort zone' so to speak, and absolutely nail it for most of their efforts has been Corsair. They're a MEMORY company, just look at the first case they brought out. It actually changed the case industry quite a bit, a lot of their design choices became industry standards. Razer wants you to have a whole matching set of RazerStuff and that's what brings down the quality. I think their mice are their best asset, and what they really need is to focus on the quality and durability of their CORE products, not expand into new markets where they have NFI what they're doing. This is not to say that they currently have the best mice. It's simply that that is what they really ARE good at making compared to the rest. Buyers should be wary of getting "matching brand" products simply for the sake of it. Look for a manufacturer who does it well. For example, if you want a graphics/pen tablet, you go to Wacom. If you want an LCD panel, you go to Asus, Samsung etc, because they actually have decent products in that field. Keyboards, you've got Ducky, Filco, Daskeyboard etc. The company that actually works on making a quality range of products to fill a certain need, rather than trying to get a finger in ever pie, often produces the absolute best stuff. Quality, not brand, is what you should look for. Otherwise you're just a sheep shopper. Quality is trustworthy, brand is not. This applies to everything, not just computers. If I want to buy a pair of boots (in Australia) I don't go to a fashion store once a year, I go to R.M. Williams *once* a decade more likely. Keeping this sort of shopper's mind helps you in the long run. You won't accumulate as much junk, and the things you have will serve you well. Nobody needs a pile of dead Razer/insert brand here products in a box taking up room in their house for years.

Hey guys, just been having fun with a H80i and a H100 (some of you may have seen my earlier thread debating whether to get a H80i - I ended up going with it!) and figured out a few cool things. I'll start with: Hxx(x)(i), LGA 775 and YOU! A guide to installing new stuff on old boards! So while I booted out the H100 from my main PC in favour of its smaller, younger cousin, it got a second chance at honourable duty in my multipurpose 24/7 rig (for simplicity: server). The server is my old gaming PC, with a GA-EP45-UD3 socket 775 board. There are a few small capacitors that are tucked quite closely into the top of the socket on this board, so while I initially thought the H100's water block & pump would squish them (not good) and therefore had to abandon this plan, I had a self-mocking facepalm moment a short while later when I realised I could simply rotate the cooler 90 degrees and this problem would disappear. The water blocks in these coolers are rectangular, so I just needed the longer edge to run parallel to this little row of caps instead of the short edge crushing them mercilessly. A little bit of research told me that this capacitor issue is more common in Gigabyte boards, but other 775 boards can have this problem too. Always remember to check for this if you're installing any of these coolers on an older board. You may have to sacrifice having the Corsair logo the right way up, but it's better than destroying a motherboard! Now for phase two: H80i and the noisy, clicky, slow pump! This issue is not 100% resolved, and the temporary solution is highly cringe-worthy, please take this with a grain of salt and not as PC medical advice. Sometimes when I start up my main rig, the pump will click, and the reading for the RPM shows only 500 or so. NOT GOOD! However, sometimes a reboot helps, and it also helps to give the PC a little shake (*shudder*). BitFenix Prodigy owners will find that this is the one time they're happy to have such wobbly feet. I gave the PC a good little shake (not too hard of course) and the noise stopped, and Corsair Link instantly showed the full pump speed of around 2100RPM. I breathed a sigh of relief for now, but I am inquiring with Corsair to see if there isn't a better solution. My hunch is it's a current (Amps, not present) issue when starting the pump - probably because of the fans plugged into the pump/block. I'm running a pair of BitFenix Spectre Pros at the moment, though I might switch to NF-F12s. I am also going to investigate whether powering the fans another way solves the pump issue. Well that's it, I hope some of this is helpful to somebody! I will update this if I permanently resolve the pump/fan issue or Corsair responds with anything significant. Til next time, don't forget to subscribe to LinusTechTips for more Unboxings, Reviews, and Other Computer Videos!

I have no intention of buying one (lolgeddit) because the direction consoles are taking frustrates me (TV!TV!TV!XBOX!SPORTS!TV!CALLOFDUTY!). I answered $299 US though, because it's more reasonable an entry into a platform, and also because Australians are likely to be forced to pay about a quarter extra compared to US, despite our strong dollar and enthusiastic market. Australians are so often forced to pay more for tech that it's frustrating and insulting. Shipping would be a reasonable excuse if it wasn't SUPER inflated. US Postal services are to blame for this as well (the ONLY country/region that will charge near $200 for shipping a trivial item to Australia, despite the distance not being great enough to justify that). But honestly, we get stung more because we have historically been happy to pay more. I believe the price will be closer to $600 AUD. Convert that to $US and see if you think it's justified.

Watching your youtube vid as I write this. I also have a CM V8, it's been keeping my C2D E8400 chilled while running at 4.0GHz for coming on 4 years now. Never had heat issues at all, so I'm wondering if maybe your thermal paste is too thick slightly or something. I'm about to throw an NF-F12 in mine to see how she goes! Nice build, live the brown sleeving!

Hello Linus! Agree completely with what you said (and did so before you said it). But the server's really not the point of my post, it's more about H80i vs. H100. Also, my server is not extremely mission critical. If the consensus is that a H80i is worth getting so I can fit optical, but a H100 is a danger to my server, then I'll probably just sell that off to someone else, and maybe chuck an NF-F12 in the V8 for a bit more cooling performance. So guys, the key question again: H80i - good enough compared to a H100 that it's not a huge sacrifice?

Excellent response to whether watercooling works in 24/7 setups, and citing an issue such as a seal cracking. Again, my server doesn't do anything intensive and is idling most of the time, so I don't see water temperatures being hugely problematic. The GPU in my server is extremely low end and passively cooled (it barely gets lukewarm), and the temps in my server on the whole are exceptionally low for an overclocked build in a silence optimised case. However, I think the point of my thread has been missed: It's not about cooling my server, but about whether going from a H100 to a H80i is a bad/okay/fine move for the main PC, for the purposes of being able to fit an optical drive without sacrificing anything. Reusing the H100 in the server is a side-issue, not motivated by any sort of perceived performance increase but rather avoiding "wasting" a H100, and can't really see how it would be a problem in my scenario anyway (not folding, not publicly serving anything huge to lots of people, no heavy usage at home). So to clarify your post, when you suggest not bothering, do you mean you wouldn't bother *because* of the 24/7 WC issue? Or you wouldn't bother anyway due to cost/benefit, and you also wanted to clarify Ghost's point separately?

Why would the fact that a machine runs 24/7 and has some network services running preclude it from being cooled with an AIO WC kit? Especially when it's Overclocked, and running inside a silence optimized case? Thanks for the reply, I just don't understand how that is necessarily a logical conclusion to make just on the fact that it's called a Server.. :S

Howdy guys! I'm trying to decide whether this course of action is worth considering. Before you immediately say one way or the other, here's the circumstances: Main PC: Prodigy case, H100 roof mounted, i7-3770K OC'd to 4.5, Windows 7 - Cannot have an optical drive - With a H80i mounted to the back, I can install an optical drive. Also, after installing one for a friend, I fell in love with Corsair Link lol it's actually somewhat useful, and absent on the H100 - A proper damn optical drive would be nice, since I buy CDs and rip with EAC rather than buy online/iTunes - My external Optical drive (slimline) has reliability issues particularly with this PC for some reason (causes EAC to hang, become unkillable etc etc, the system doesn't like it sometimes!) but not with other PCs Server: Define R4, currently got a CM V8, C2D E8400 OC'd to 4.0, Ubuntu 13.04 - Can roof mount a H100 with no major issues from what I can tell, as long as I offset it to the side. Mobo is older, RAM doesn't reach right to the top - Currently housing my nice Samsung blu ray drive (mammary glands on a chicken - utterly useless unless I start using my server to rip discs) - Not sure about running EAC in wine working, or a native app that is as accurate and reliable (and useful/well designed interface, database integration etc.) So what do you say, LTT forum? Is it worth swapping, or should I just deal with it, possibly get a better external or use my server to rip? Never thought this dilemma would continue to plague me after 6 months uptime! EDIT (for clarity): The plan would be to take the H100 from the Main PC, and install it in the Server, and put a new H80i into the Main PC so I can transfer my optical drive into it from the Server.

Have you considered purchasing a small mixing board/mixer? You could plug all of your PCs into the board as sources, then send the output to your sound solution (whether this is headphones or an amplifier or PC speakers). A mixer gives you a lot of control over the volume and EQ of the different sources. You could find a cheap one, but unfortunately I don't have any models or makes to recommend. These are usually used for music production or similar situations, but can be quite useful for home setups. It's probably a bit of overkill, but it's something I'd consider if it's crucial to have both sound streams playing simultaneously (an A/V switch will simply not do this)