Slyve

Small, kinda thick and packs quite a punch. Reminds me of my sex life. This would give me a reason to renovate my apartment, so i can make sure that i have an entire wall white and empty, just like my soul. JK, I'm gonna watch so much porn with that thing. It's gonna be amazing.

What would you say is the threshold you should look for in iops when considering a System SSD? At what point is the benefit purely theoretical and not really noticeable in day to day use? For example, is the difference between 100k and 50k worth a little extra or is it also just for benchmarks?

Hey there! I recently switched from an AMD FX 8350 and an ASUS Crosshair V Formula Z Board to a I7 4790k and an MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition Board. Apart from the obvious improvements, this meant i now had access to an M.2 Slot. After looking around for a bit i found an M.2 module i want to put in there. The Lucky winner: Samsung SSD SM951-NVMe 128GB, M.2 M.2/M-Key (PCIe 3.0 x4) • read: 2000MB/s • write: 650MB/s • IOPS 4K read/write: 300k/83k Now here's the thing: The Z97S SLI only has 2 PCIe 2.0 lanes powering the M.2 slot. Which means i won't be able to use the full 2000MB/s read speed due to the limits of the PCIe lanes. We're talking more like 800MB/s with this slot. I don't really care, though, since i want to use it for the System and i won't write a lot on there anyway. What's really important to me is: Will the IOPS suffer due to this? Or is this only bandwidth that affects big amounts of data but not access times? I am currently using a 840 Evo 250GB, which runs with 97k IOPS read and 66k IOPS write. The new M.2 will set me back around 80 bucks and i want to make sure that i will actually gain performance out of this. Otherwise there is no reason. Would appreciate any insights you guys can give me, since i have no real experience with M.2's Thank you for your Time! Oh, and another thing, what about M.2 Covers that you put over the drive? ( http://www.coldzero.eu/364-m2-covers ) Are those safe or will they overheat the drive or something like that?

I just fixed this issue. I ran the PC with Win7 for a while because that made no trouble whatsoever, but since i had an active win10 license running on the machine, i wanted to use it. Couldn't find the key, so using it for 7 again was no option. It turned out to be a BIOS thing. Flashed a new version and now it runs perfectly. In hindsight, i'm pretty pissed at myself for not thinking of that sooner. Should've been one of the first things that i tried, but for some reason, i didn't until right now. I spent the last hour turning the pc off and on again, removing the power cord for a while and everything, and it boots perfectly. Every time. Just thought I'd let you guys know. Thanks for all your input!

That was the plan in case this thing wasn't salvageable. Just wanted to make sure it was beyond hope, though. Thanks!

I thought as much. Thanks for the confirmation!

So, i have kind of a weird problem. I got the PC of a friend right now. He said it won't start anymore and i should try to fix it. Problem was the HDD. It may be completely broken, but I'd like to completely wipe it to see if that does anything before i throw it away. I hooked it up to my other PC to see if i can access it there (The original pc just freezes up just when windows should be loading). Once the HDD is connected (i tried it with a USB 3.0 dock station and directly via sata to the board) it seems like the pc is trying to read the file system but locks up while doing so. Windows explorer doesn't respond anymore, windows get greyed out, computer management doesn't show anything. If i turn off the USB Dock while this happens, he displays the hdd for a second before it disappears. If i have the Computer window open, i can see the 3 partitions on the drive, but no indication about capacity usage will be displayed. I'm hoping that there is something wrong with the drive that a complete wipe could fix, but i don't know how i can stop the system from trying to access it in this broken state. I tried booting from a Windows 7 USB Stick and accessing the command prompt via the system repair. I managed to get Diskpart running, display the drive and even start the "clean" command on the drive, but it never finishes. It usually takes a couple of seconds, i let it sit for an hour and nothing happened. Anyone has any ideas here? Is this even possible? Or is this a sign that the drive is actually broken and i should just throw it away? It's just a 500GB HDD, so it wouldn't be a big loss, but i hate the idea of throwing out hardware that could still be saved.

Hm, so it could be that the hardware is fine and i have to hope for a update from Microsoft? Maybe if i reinstall windows 10 without first installing 7 and updating, or using the windows 10 reset feature will work. I think I'll try this first. Create a USB install stick with the MS tool and have a go at it. Wish me luck!

If the times sets itself to 2182, the option to automatically set time is always enabled. If i disable and then re-enable it, it shows the little loading icon, but never actually changes the time. I let it sit like that for about 2 hours once, without anything happening. If i try to change the time manually, it won't show any numbers in the windows for the day, month, and year. I have to disable, and then enable, the automatic time thing, then go to manually change the time, for it to show 2076. Click the year, scroll up, select a year somewhere around 2040 (it won't show enough to directly select 2016) and then finally 2016. After that i have to reboot the system for everything to load correctly. From then on the PC works if it isn't turned off. I'm gonna look for a replacement board to test it with or try to remove as much stuff as i can and try it that way once I'm, at my GFs the next time. Thanks for the Tips!

Yeah, directly after i put in the new Battery. Couple of times since then out of pure desperation and because i had no idea what else i could try. Board is my last guess, too. Wouldn't be too bad, that thing is pretty rubbish anyway.

Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. It's, as far as i can tell, completely random. I cannot see any kind of pattern there.

Hello! So, i am having some really weird problems with the PC of my Girlfriend. I build the thing from the ground up, partly with parts i had lying around and some new ones. Let me list all the Parts in the PC to start with: Gainward GTX 960 2GB (From my own PC after i Upgraded to a 970) AMD FX-6300 (Bought new, because i had the MB already) 8GB Kingston ValueRam (4x2GB) 1333mhz (From my own PC after i upgraded to 2 8 GB Sticks.) Asrock 980DE3/US3 (Also from my old PC after an Upgrade.) SanDisk Ultra II 120GB SSD (Bought new because i refuse to build a PC without a System SSD) A Seagate 1TB Drive, not sure what kind, but i don't think it matters here, since it's just for storage 450W Corsair VS Series PSU Antec GX500 Windowed Case I put all of the stuff together, installed windows 7, activated it, upgraded to 10 and did the initial config with all the usual stuff. Worked like a charm for a couple of weeks. Then it straight up refused to start windows. It booted fine, showed the Windows loading screen and then it went Black. Nothing happened and there was nothing on the Screen. Had to reboot and checked the Bios. The Date was set to 2014, which seemed to be a weird date to reset to, since the Board was, if i remember correctly, older than that. Changed the Battery anyway. Reset the bios to defaults, checked the time and rebooted. Seemed to work. Next reboot, same problem. Date was set to 2014 again. Checked the Battery with a voltmeter. Everything fine. The voltage in the bios was fine, too. Now the weird part, since then, it sometimes boots absolutely perfectly, other times it won't boot at all and other times it takes ages to boot. If it boots, sometimes it has the correct time, sometimes it's set to 2182 (It's always this year, though). Bios time is sometimes correct, sometimes set to 2014. It's completely random, but more often then not, there is something preventing it from booting. Takes 3-4 tries before windows loads at all and most of the time, the date will be set to 2182. Sometimes the time will be correct, though. I am all out of ideas. Last thing i can think of is to get a new MB, but I'd like to ask you guys if you can think of something first. I don't want to buy a new MB just to have the same problem again in case it isn't the board. Did a windows reset already (even installed 7 again and upgraded for a second time. All after formatting the Drive completely. So i have to assume it's a Hardware Issue. Thanks for your Time!

Alright, i will return it to the Vendor and ask for a Replacement. Thanks for your advice, everyone!

Hey there. I ordered myself a LG 34um57-p a couple of days ago, because it was heavily discounted at the time. After a few days i noticed weird glowing when watching movies for example. After a little testing (by which i mean turning the lights off and display a plain black image created with MS Paint) it became apparent that there was lots of backlight bleeding going on here. (See the image. Took it with my Cellphone, which apparently doesn't really take good pictures in the dark. Who would've thought? But it's enough to clearly see the backlight bleed problem.) Since i have never had this Problem, my Question is: is this normal for a LCD Display of this size or is this worth returning? Could i end up with a worse case of bleeding if i get a new one?

Yeah, i was considering the 990FX Killer as well, but instead went for the Gigabyte one. Apparently, the Killer would have been a much better Option. On the other hand, now I'm gonna start all over again with a Formula Z, so, maybe this was the better way to go.