Buyingbf_

Very recently and many times before, Internet has been knocked out entirely on every single device on my network after I turn on my VPN on one of my devices. Doesn't matter if it's running on my PC or phone, it's going to knock out the Internet eventually. However, it's not like the connection is cut off, more like blocked/interfered with. When I try to load a page on Chrome it gives me an error about DNS probe. The second I turn off my VPN, I can reload a page and continue watching my Youtube video. The device with the VPN is perfectly fine. I've been using Windscribe VPN for more than a year, and my dad has an extremely fast plan with Comcast/Xfinity. Am I getting throttled or blocked by my ISP? Is it some kind of network setting I need to change? Any help is appreciated.

How are you installing Windows?

Yes, it's perfectly okay to hold the heatsink while placing the motherboard into the case. Just make sure your mounts and screws are tight and correct so that the cooler doesn't slip or come off.

Yeah, your RAM kits should work fine. I myself had two 2x4GB of DDR3 back in the day, and I found out much later they were slightly different models with different timings and such lol. Worked perfectly fine, however.

Having two of the same exact kits of RAM will most likely work, but since your motherboard is having problems it's going to be hard to find out if your RAM even works.

The Zero RPM function is a good thing. The power supply does not need to pull a lot of power, meaning less work and less heat. The fan would not be needed in these low-effort situations since the power supply can handle it without overheating. By turning off the fan, it preserves the bearing on your fan and helps it last longer since it's only spinning in necessary situations. However, once you go over a certain power load, maybe during a game when your CPU and GPU are pulling hard at high frequencies and high power draw, your power supply needs the fan to cool itself down.

Most Corsair power supplies have a Zero RPM mode when the power load is low enough. Your HX650 has that function. It could be that it just automatically shuts off since its a low load, seeing you have a regular 2600 and only a 1050. The B350 motherboard might be problem, since as you addressed before it requires a BIOS update before you can slot in a 2000 series chip. The seller probably ripped the "Ryzen 2000 ready" off the product page since most 300 series motherboards can support them, but the big asterisk is that you need to update the BIOS first with a previous gen 1000 series chip. I'm running off an Intel qualified RAM kit. I'm only at 2666Mhz compared to the advertised 3000Mhz. For your first steps you should try swapping slots or only one stick.

They always mess with the mic and I hear them bumping it around and stuff. Don't know why they would take the effort of having a fake mic on screen, just adds clutter. I myself haven't watched the latest WAN show yet so maybe the audio was coming from the camera or some other mic.

There are a couple IEMs on Massdrop near your $25 budget. KZ ASO6 for $34 and TRN V80 for $25. Massdrop is a good place to get good gear, but I myself have not looked into these two pairs of IEMs.

Just now I'm monitoring my temps with HWMonitor and I opened up Steam. +10C in temps, but then jumps back down in less than a second. This is fine since it's a small, short load that can be handled efficiently by my cooling. It's probably not temperature inaccuracy. I think the real problem with your computer are your fan curves, since they are too sensitive and keep ramping up and down. I set my fans to run at a low speed until like 55C or something.

I don't know if it's fixed now, but before the temperature probes on AMD's CPUs were not not accurate in the lower ranges, near the area you're talking about. My 1500x does temp spike as well. I have an H100i cooling it and it jumps around from mid-30s to around mid-40s.

Whatever looks the best for you, choose it. However, I have an LG 1080p monitor with Super Resolution. With the setting on, it just gives everything a black outline to simulate a "popping out" effect in order to achieve the visual of "higher resolution." IMO, it is too distracting, even on low, so I turned it off. I don't know how SR+ would look on a 4K panel tho.

Most Bluetooth devices uses some kind of blinking LED to signify connections and power. I wouldn't be surprised if there wasn't any kind of option to turn off the light, since you need to light to know if it's working. You can tape the light with black tape or something.

Look for open/semi-open headphones. The drivers are open to allow for ambient sound to come in. This is so you can have a much bigger soundstage, but also for hearing your mum calling you from downstairs as well.