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Limecat86

Member
  • Content Count

    652
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards


About Limecat86

  • Title
    Fish-tank enthousiast
  • Birthday 1986-04-23

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    The Netherlands
  • Interests
    PC's (Duh), Webdevelopment, Fish tanks,
    Gaming, Movies, Pets
  • Occupation
    PHP Developer

System

  • CPU
    Core i7 5820K @ 4.2Ghz
  • Motherboard
    Asus X99 Sabertooth
  • RAM
    Corsair Dominator Platinum 32GB 2400Mhz
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1080 FE
  • Case
    Thermaltake Core X71
  • Storage
    Samsung EVO 960 500GB + Samsung EVO 850 500GB + Samsung EVO 850 250GB
  • PSU
    Corsair RM750i
  • Display(s)
    LG 34UC89G-B + LG29UM58-P
  • Cooling
    Full custom loop
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K95 (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse
    Logitech Proteus Spectrum
  • Sound
    Logitech Z4
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

2,049 profile views
  1. Same here but with a 1080 FE (non-TI). Which would get, with the original cooler, up to 80C on a gaming session. On water it peaks at 50C.
  2. Well, it's not only the liquid that is bad. That kit involves (if i'm correct) a Copper CPU block with an Aluminum radiator. Copper and Aluminum in the same loop will cause some serious galvanic corrosion if your liquid doesn't have the required corrosion inhibitors. So keep that in mind when you're searching for new coolant.
  3. I still do play minecraft but not as often as I used too. It's nice to play with friends or on a whitelisted servers. Tried some public servers but most are full of angry 12 year old kids....
  4. Yes, liquid can pass through a pump that is not running. The whole idea of running two pumps in series is that, if one fails you can still use your system while looking for a new pump to replace the broken one. I'm using 2 DDC 3.2 pumps (serial) in my system and it still works fine if I pull the power from one of the pumps. Of course you will lose about half of the head pressure when running 1 pump instead of 2. Running two pumps in parallel is generally a bad idea...
  5. I would suggest the RM750i as it is cheaper. As far as I know the only difference is the platinum vs gold efficiency rating. I too have the RM750i. Can't say much else than that it's a solid and silent unit. The corsair link is nice gimmick which allows you to see your power draw and the unit can be set to single or multirail operation.
  6. As far as I know the minimum acceptable flow rate is around 0.5 GPM and anything above 1 GPM won't do much to your temps.
  7. Why wouldn't you just switch over to a good air cooler? A Noctua NH-D15 or a be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 should perform better that a 120mm AIO
  8. My guess is that the temperature sensor has gone wonky...
  9. Not really I'm afraid, assuming your GPU doesn't do anything while you're stress testing the CPU. If your GPU is idle it doesn't add much heat to the loop, so the CPU has (almost) the full 240mm for dissipating it's heat. It will be different when you start gaming though. Then both GPU and CPU will dump their heat on the loop.
  10. 25-30C for idle temps seems good to me and 60-70C won't hurt the CPU, but on stock I would expect it to be a bit lower. Then there is left that you're cooling a CPU + GPU with only an EK 240SE. The rule of thumb is 120mm per component + 120mm. Which means in your case you would need at least a surface total of 360mm². So I would add another radiator, preferably a 240mm one if money and space allow it.
  11. My Asus X99-A motherboard died a week ago and is replaced with an Asus X99 Sabertooth. Not really much has changed on the loop except that I had to go back using my EK Supremacy EVO CPU block. Had to mount it with the logo upside down so I wouldn't have to switch the tubings going in the GPU on the bottomside. Also, replaced the Thermatake Riing fans for Corsair's LL120 and a new color mixed from Mayhem's UV ice blue and a little bit of laser green.
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