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About norgeek

  • Title
  • Birthday 1985-07-19

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Occupation
    Certified Electronics Technician, IT Consultant, Professional Driver


  • CPU
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-EX58-DS4, X58
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance DDR3 1600MHz 24GB CL9
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 980 Ti Hybrid, ZOTAC GeForce GT 720
  • Case
    Thermaltake Level 10
  • Storage
    Samsung 850 EVO, 250GB+500GB
  • PSU
    Tagan TG700-BZ
  • Display(s)
    Fujitsu L22T-3, SONY KDL40EX500, LG L206WTQ, ACER S241HLBbid, BenQ G2420HD, LG W2363D-PF
  • Cooling
    Cooler Master Nepton 140XL‎
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G19
  • Mouse
    Steelseries Rival
  • Sound
    X-Fi PCIe, Z5500
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro

Recent Profile Visitors

469 profile views
  1. I genuinely wonder how you LTT guys (or anyone online these days) manage to stay so enthusiastic and keep at it when it takes so little for drama to ensue. I have a minuscule SoMe involvement in comparison and I just find it so tiring at times.
  2. If there's no internet connection, RCS falls back to SMS. It limits the functionality but it does not render it unworkable.
  3. Can anyone spoonfeed me the difference between Android Messages and Chat? My carrier moved me to AM about two months ago as they implemented RCS support here and it's been working fine. They're calling it "SMS+" here, though. Is Chat just a different name for Android Messages? Is it a competing product, and in that case why? Does it matter which one I use? Why are the news articles making a big deal about Chat getting RCS functionality in the future when Android Messages has had it for some time already?
  4. They actually linked directly to the campaign site for color reference, as well as attaching a screenshot of the same website, so they appeared to go from that rather than any previously received design or internal documents. The negative impression I got only referred to their apparent inability to see a difference between the color I received and the color on their website. I got the feeling of being 'brushed off' as a customer, which is unfortunate. Yes, they are offering a new shirt and I do appreciate that - especially because they did so believing that they had done nothing wrong in the first place. Unfortunately they are not able to do a reprint, and there's nothing currently available that I have any serious interest in. Seems pointless to just get a random shirt as a 'replacement', especially with my limited closet space That campaign has ended, hasn't it? Pre-post-edit: It seems like the 'OFFICIAL Linus Tech Tips shirt' campaign has even been restarted and is currently running.. do I dare to ask for one of those, hoping that I'll actually end up with the right colors this time? I'm assuming they didn't offer a reprint/switch to that campaign because they were under the impression that I had already received the correct color anyway... Post-post-edit: A different CS came back to me overnight, said that yes, obviously something had gone wrong, and they had alerted the production facility. They also ordered me a new shirt from the new campaign (after confirming this with me). Woo, happy endings! Well, as long as it works out this time. But it should
  5. Teespring: "I took a closer look at the campaign that you ordered from and it does appear that these items were printed correctly." But they went on to offer me store credit for any currently available shirt anyway. With ShadowDeity confirming 'Noctua Orange' that sort of leaves me with mixed feelings regarding their customer service, but oh well. And yeah, I did vaguely remember something regarding printing problems in a WAN show, but I'm not going to look through them to find it. Thanks for the input from all of you!
  6. Oh well then, I'll just think of it as my extra-special shirt
  7. Allright, so I got my OFFICIAL Linus Tech Tips t-shirt (crew). Wooo! But the color seems to be way off, almost maroon-ish? I snapped a picture, with two LTT edition Noctua fan vibration dampeners laying on a 'white' A4 sheet of printer paper. It was supposed to be LTT orange, wasn't it? Just wanted to confirm an actual error before I contacted Teespring. Edit: New picture, more color and less blur.
  8. I had to choose between the X34 and Z35. I have a single 980Ti, my system is too old for SLI, and I primarily play Star Citizen and other high-demand games. The Z35 will give me much better (as in, actually playable) FPS, and offer better blacks in space. I'll probably never even hit 100FPS for at least another year, so the 200Hz max is irrelevant. Considering how my primary gaming display the last few days has been a 40" 1080p TV at desktop distances I know for sure the PPI will be more than acceptable for me. The 1440w IPS certainly has its place, but so does the 1080w AMVA.
  9. It doesn't appear on screenshots, I just tried several times. Pretty sure I hit the button at the right time, too, as the effect froze for a moment.. which I guess I kinda odd? I'll try to grab something with my phone the next time it happens. Managed to get a few bad screenshots off of a phone video. Not showing the whole screen (as my craptastic Z3+ apparently decides to zoom in a lot when it finally gets around to record a video), and I haven't been able to reproduce the issue since then. Seems like the effect is varies more than I had the impression of, too. At least the effect is quite obvious:
  10. My display situation is a little complex. I have an EVGA GTX 980Ti Hybrid outputting to a TV and (soon) a gaming monitor, and a passively-cooled ZOTAC GT 720 1GB connected to two 24" and a 22" 1080p 60Hz displays. The issue has only ever occurred on the 720. I'm running Windows 10 64bit pro. Drivers are current. I've had the Zotac since start of June and the 980 since early August. Before the 980, the 720 was working together with an HD7870. The problems started.. well, a few weeks ago. I think. I've been gone a lot recently and haven't had time to get overly annoyed with the issue, but now that I'm here a lot more and my use of the system has changed I'd like to deal with it. Until a few days ago I've been using an Nvidia surround setup on the 980, and the TV and two old panels on the 720. I first started noticing the issue on the TV, and admittedly my first thought was "Aw shoot, has the panel gotten cracked somehow?!" due to the weird tearing pattern(image below). A couple of days ago, in preparation of receiving my Z35 ultrawide, I completely recombobulated the whole layout. The 980 now runs the TV (and the saddest little 20" 1680x1050 temporary screen I could dig up), and the 720 is in charge of two 24"s as primary browsing monitors off to the side (as well as a smaller monitor that just does Spotify and the odd .PDF). The tearing problem has moved from the TV to both the 24"s which is why I'm suspecting the 720. Thing is, the issue might have been there on all the 720-connected displays since it first started some weeks(?) ago, but because the displays (other than the TV) never displayed any quick image changes it never became apparent. While it's nice to be able to watch Netflix on my TV again without the problem, it makes youtube videos, webshop galleries, or even just scrolling down Twitter (or even hunting down typos in this post) on the 24"s somewhat less enjoyable. I have tried to recreate the pattern I see in the image below. It's not a perfectly accurate representation. It's (almost?) always the same pattern, a triangle with two lines beneath. The area with the red lines will have quite severe tearing, while everything white is perfectly normal. I also believe I have observed a few cases of a complete diagonal line from top left to bottom right corner, but only a few times. It is not a constant issue, it'll disappear and reappear seemingly at random. I primarily use Chrome, and I know people have reported horizontal tearing there. I've tried the tips I've seen like forcing Vsync and setting the output to 59Hz. While I haven't been able to reproduce the problem on Edge, that might just as well has been my card not wanting to act up during testing as it didn't happen on Chrome either at the time. Also, is the Chrome-tearing-issue limited to a single GPU in multi-GPU-systems? So, anyone have any ideas? Is it a different form of Chrome tearing? Is this "normal" Chrome tearing and I'm just not understanding what "horizontal tearing" is? Is my Zotac unhappy? It's usually running at around 51 degrees Celcius when the system is idle, 50 when it's under load (increased airflow). The cables are all different now, and as far as I know they've all been working fine in the past. Could it be my relatively ancient system? My Gigabyte GA-EX58-DS4 has developed some other weird quirks throughout the years, and for all I know my Tagan TG700-BZ might be getting fuzzy. They're both from late 2008. I'm desperately trying to hang onto this system until Skylake-E launches in another year or so, but I might get a new PSU earlier if that's the case. Have I failed at searching and overlooked the thread where this was solved already? Help me LinusTechTipsers, you're my only hope!
  11. Your motherboard manufacturer might have software that lets you do that
  12. You'll obviously have to pay VAT regardless of where you order from as long as you're in the EU. If you order it from caseking.de or Overclockers.co.uk they'll charge VAT up front to save you the hassle, if you order from abroad you'll have to pay when you receive your package. Shipping costs are unfortunate, but not something LTT can do anything about. Maybe caseking can ship them in a cheaper way, if they ever get around to putting the fans up on their site. You could consider ordering some other computer parts at the same time to offset the cost of shipping. As for PLE, they are in Australia so that's 36 Australian dollars, which equates to 26USD. Shipping anything across the world from Australia is generally a bad idea. I ordered from NCIX.com, they gave me the best price for a total of 11 fans shipped to Norway. Again, that's Canadian dollars and not US dollars on their site.
  13. The fans are all controlled by the motherboard, using Asus Fan Xpert 3. It's really easy to set up profiles for all the fans, both 3pin and 4pin. How much control you get depends on the motherboard and manufacturer software, the MSI board I have in my file server is a lot less helpful in comparison.
  14. I recently built a Z170Deluxe/6700K in a Define S. I'm using an NH-D15, and for all but intensive work the only fans in the system that aren't shut down completely are the two noctuas - one on the cooler and one as exhaust - running at 300rpm. I can't hear them at all, the high-end fridge across the room makes more sound. System normally operates at 34 degrees Celsius, somewhere below 100 Fahrenheit. I have 3 GP-14's up front that kick in once it gets hot (rarely). At the lowest RPM, which is considerably higher than the Noctuas, they're quite audible (compared to an otherwise virtually noiseless system). But effective! As it's my moms facebook machine I don't have a discrete GPU in it yet. I'll probably throw a 970 in there at some point so I'm not limited to Steam streaming for my kitchen gaming sessions. Depending on how loud the GPU is I might consider Noctuas in the front as well.. but even with the GP-14's you should end up with a pretty quiet system even under load. Assuming you're able to control them. Keep in mind that the windowless cases are coated with noisedampening foam on both sides, whereas the windowed case is (obviously) not. It's a style vs. noise compromise, luckily it was easy for me to choose silence.