NavXIII

So I have with me a Sandisk Extreme Portable and Extreme Pro Portable SSDs. The former is rated for 1050 MB/s and the later is 2000 MB/s. I have an ASUS ROG Strix X570-E Gaming motherboard and a Corsair 680X RGB case. Both have USB 3.2 Gen 2 ports which should have a maximum speed of 1200 MB/s (10 Gbit/s). I tested the Extreme Portable on both the motherboard USB-C port as well as the case's USB-C port, and got ~1022MB/s reads and ~940 MB/s writes. The Extreme Pro Portable has a read of ~1034 MB/s and writes of ~950 MB/s. The Extreme Pro Portable should be able to saturate the USB 3.2 Gen 2 ports but it barely does better than that.

Hola, My local ISP (Shaw) replaced my old 4-port router/modem with a new 2-port one because apparently, they are attempting to push their new cool wireless capabilities onto all of their customers. Therefore I'm in need of a network switch and I need some help deciding. I uploaded 2 pictures below describing the setup I had with my 4-port router, and the setup I should have soon. I was using our old Linksys E2000 router as an AP and a network switch to provide ethernet to the second floor of our house, but apparently, it was bottlenecking half the network with sub-100Mbps speeds so that may have to be replaced too. The Chromecast and the printers don't need to be connected via ethernet, I'm just showing it as a possibility. I have my eye on the following gigabit switches below. I'm not too well versed in what specs I should be looking at when shopping for a switch beside it being gigabit. I was thinking of either getting 2 8-port switches for the basement and the second floor or getting one 16-port to be futureproof (because we plan on moving to a larger house next year and put off getting new tech for a while) but I will have to drag a few wires through the wall. https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX48574 https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX64318 https://www.memoryexpress.com/Products/MX14573 https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00A121WN6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1 https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07GR9S6FN/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

Hey y'all, I was in the market for a screen protector for my S9+, and while normally I get one from Spigen for every phone I had in the family for the past couple years, Spigen doesn't seem to have one for the S9+. Instead, they got something called "Screen Protector GLAS.tR Nano Liquid", which is a wet wipe that you rub on your screen and the solution fuses with your screen or something. It claims to have a higher hardness than your average phone's oleophobic coating and might potentially cover up tiny scratches in the oleophobic coating. I tried searching for reviews online, and anything currently on Youtube about it is garbage. A few people asked about it on Reddit and various forums but many responders to those threads simply called it snake oil with no explanation. I discovered a few other similar products like "Nanofixit Phone - Nano Liquid Screen Protector", and a few others that I simply cannot remember at the moment. There are also a few products that claim to remove scratches or restore the oleophobic coating like "Crystal Armor Fusso Cell Phone Fingerprint Oleophobic Coating", and "Nanofixit Scratch Remover". Of all these products, there seems to be very little third party info about them. It'll be pretty cool if we can get a video or two about whether or not these products are more scratch resistant, can fix scratches and micro scratches, and endurance of the coatings. LTT does have one video about a wet applied liquid screen protector, but that was from 2012 and it was tested on a Blackberry.

Hey, wondering if this is still be updated.

1. Mad Catz RAT 7 mouse. An expensive mouse I got from the Apple store back in 2012 and it barely lasted a year. 2. MSI X99 Gaming 9 ACK motherboard. This is a long one so bear with me. Got this for my first pc build in early 2016. I told myself I can splurge a "little" on an expensive motherboard as I already had a keyboard, mouse, and monitor that I used for my old MacBook Air, as well as a second HyperX Savage SSD I got from Linus' garage sale back in 2015, therefore making my first build really "cheap." I also had a second a GTX 570 and was waiting for the 1000 series to come out any time. One of the main selling points was that it had an onboard hardware streaming device and 2 years of XSplit subscription. The streamer didn't work on mine, but I couldn't send it in because I needed it for school. I sent it for repair during semester break and they said it'll be mailed to me in 2 weeks. Instead, I had to go pick it up from them 6 weeks later. The thing still didn't work and now my motherboard has lots scratches on it. I didn't want to deal with waiting another 6 weeks for cosmetic repairs so I just kept it. At least it gave me another 2 years of XSplit. Turns out the streamer's problem were driver related according to XSplit support and they told me the drivers from MSI's site doesn't work so I had to download it from some obscure site they directed me to. After testing it out I concluded that this thing is outdated as it can only record and stream up to 1080p 30 FPS. Recording with my CPU can go up to 4K 60 FPS. therefore this onboard recorder is only useful for certain CPU intensive games. I dunno what I was thinking. I don't even stream lol. Could've got an ASUS Strix motherboard for much cheaper and got a 1080 instead of a 1070. 3. Not a regret of buying, but a regret of not buying. On Boxing Day 2016, Newegg had Kingston HyperX FURY 2x8 2133 MHz RAM on sale $95. NCIX had it for $125. I initially got this pair of RAM sticks for $80 back in early 2016 with the idea of doubling up later. So I walked down to NCIX and asked for a price match. They said $124.35, and I'm like u say wot. They look at their computer for about two minutes and then say $123. I dunno what happened to their price matching policy, but I just left, went home, and went to sleep forgetting to buy them on Newegg. Now they cost like $215. 4. I regret buying some cheap ass HDMI cable online that seemed to have fried HDMI ports on my TV and monitors. Luckily my main monitor had a second HDMI input, but I have to use a GTX 570 to hook up my second monitor via VGA and a DVI adaptor that apparently isn't the same DVI port on my 1070. Had to get an HDMI switcher for my TV.

Hola, I got a 28-inch monitor that is my main display and a secondary 23.4-inch monitor. Initially, I had a folder of wallpapers that W10 would switch ever 30 mins. It would display two different wallpapers but occasionally I noticed that it would display very wide wallpapers on both monitors. Now I want to display a wallpaper across both monitors but have it aligned. How can I do this?

Hey y'all, I have a MSI X99A Gaming 9 ACK and my Bluetooth simply doesn't work. There's no icon in the taskbar tray, the troubleshooter said that my device doesn't have Bluetooth, and my Xbox controller doesn't connect. I set Bluetooth support in services.msc to automatic. Also tried updating in Device Manager and then uninstalling it when that didn't work (it also never showed back up again). I fixed this problem before, but it's been a few months since I clean installed W10 into a new SSD and I cannot remember how I solved it. Thanks for the help.

Well, I've been googling about the 20K mah Anker PowerCore I have and apparently it doesn't have pass through charging. ='[

At the same time. I screwed up the title >_<

Should've said: "at the same time." to be more clear =P.

Question in the title. EDIT: At the same time I mean. Additional Question: If yes, is it bad for the health of the battery bank?

Firstly, thanks for the reply to both of you. I tried Memtest a couple month ago and everything came out just fine, so I don't think I need to do that again. Clearing CMOS did not help either. I am currently testing a 2.5" SSD as a boot drive and I installed all drivers and software as usual. After about 12 hours of regular usage, including consistently restarting, shutdowns & boot ups, everything seems OK. Seems like I can narrow it down to the M.2 drive or the M.2 port.

Hola, This just started to happen out of the blue. The PC would try to boot up and is always greeted with the blue screen. The error was "system thread exception not handled". It would restart and then present me with a screen with a bunch of options. None of them helped besides System Restore, but even that would be occasional. I then decided to clean install W10 on my M.2 SSD and then install whatever drivers I had before. Still got BSOD after a few restarts. Installed W10 and all my drivers on my HDD. Everything seemed fine, so I decided to clean install W10 and all my drivers on my M.2 SSD again. Everything seemed fine for about a day, so I went ahead with transferring my backup and installing all my applications.... until it BSOD again during a restart. At this point I don't know what to do nor do I know what is wrong. I had a week off university and I planned on gaming and catching up on projects and this really just killed my weekend. ='[ SPECS: X99A MSI Gaming 9 ACK i7 5280K H115 Kingston HyperX 2x8GB DDR4 2133 MHZ ASUS GTX 1070 STRIX Corsair RM1000i Kingston HyperX Predator M.2 480GB SSD WD Black 2TB

Hola, I've been getting this error while booting up my PC for the past few days now. It would go through a boot-loop: Attempts to start up, BSOD (gives me that error), attempt to start up again, goes into Automatic Repair where none of the options help to resolve this. I even attempted to clean install Windows 10 again onto my boot SSD and that did not help at all.

Something really weird is going on. Apparently, my splitter no longer works. I haven't used it since I used to record gameplay off my PS3 back a few years ago. I got a new HDMI 2.0 cable from Best Buy, tested that and 2 other cables by connecting them directly from my PS4 to the TV. They all worked fine. They I tested the splitter and the signal stutters for a bit and then results in a weak or poor signal. So I tossed that aside and focused on figuring out what's wrong with my monitors. Since I knew the HDMI 2.0 worked just fine between the PS4 and my TV, I hooked it up to the port 1 of my Samsung monitor. I got audio! Hooked it to my other display and got nothing. Then when I put it back onto the TV, there was video but no audio. Unhooked it and rehooked it, this time a black screen. Restarting the PS4 resulted in video but no audio. I then swapped the cable and still got video but no audio. So now I'm thinking, "Did one of these two faulty ports messed up this new HDMI 2.0 cable?" It appears that whatever the problem is, it spreads to other cables and ports.

Hey y'all, I need yall's help on this one. I have a 28" 1080p Samsung monitor with 2 HDMI inputs. Yesterday I moved my entire gaming room to a different room in the house. So far everything after the move was working just fine. Then I had the smart idea of attempting to split my PS4's signal to the TV and the second port of my monitor. It was also at this time that I decided to try out the new Razer Ripsaw capture device (Best Buy didn't have the Elgato at the time). So I hooked up my PS4 to the Ripsaw, Ripsaw into the splitter, and splitter to both my TV and monitor's second HDMI port. When I booted up my PC I got no signal from the first port. Using different cables didn't help. Trying to directly connect my PS4 to first port didn't help either. The second port works just fine if I plug in the HDMI from my GPU. It also accepted the PS4's HDMI directly. I even connected my PC to a second monitor and that worked fine... until I woke up the next day and figured out that that monitor stopped detecting the signal too. So far it appears that something had killed the sole port on my second monitor, and the first port on my main monitor.

IIRC it doesn't update that often so no need to check it every day. They sent me an email when it was ready to pick up.

So here's my results: 4.0 GHZ 1.25V 90C IBT 4.1 GHZ 1.25V 90C IBT 4.1 GHZ 1.25V 70C P95 4.2 GHZ 1.25V 80C A64 4.3 GHZ 1.25V 76C A64 4.4 GHZ 1.25V 78C A64 4.4 GHZ 1.25V 83C P95 4.4 GHZ 1.25V 93C IBT FAILED 4.3 GHZ 1.25V 88C IBT - 20 passes 4.4 GHZ 1.275V 93C IBT FAILED 4.4 GHZ 1.30V 98C IBT - 20 passes Going to see what GHZ is stable at 1.25V before upping the voltage to 1.275.

I OC'd my GPU before, but I reinstalled Windows and didn't bother OC'ing again. From old notes I found apparently I OC'd up to 2150MHZ, and 4450 on the memory. Just to make sure, I'm only going to be doing these 24 hour tests after I feel like I'm at the limit, not at each incremental increase in GHZ right?

Thanks for the help. Well, I already did 4.0GHZ at 1.25V at 20 passes with IBT, and 4.1 at 1.25V at 5 passes (20 takes way too long). I'm getting 90-95C. Would you go with Prime95 Blend and for how long? And both at the same time? My plan is to keep clocking up until it fails either Prime95 or Aida64, then push up the voltage by 0.01 increments at the clock that it failed at until it passes. Rinse and repeat until it's either too unstable or when the temps go above 90C. Will post results tomorrow. Also Corsair Link seems like a very bad fan controller. Silent fans at 90C is not good even though the curve is set to 80% above 70C. Gunna be overclocking my Strix 1070 next, hopefully that's a lot simpler.

Ok so here's what I did initially earlier today: I first set it at 4.0GHZ 1.35V and going up to 4.6GHZ. Intel XTU 15 mins each to see if it's stable. 4.6GHZ pretty much crashes instantly. Temps were around 80C in all tests. Then I started to take the voltage down in 0.01 increments while keeping 4.5GHZ. 1.31V crashes instantly, same with 1.315V, but 1.32V was fine. The temps for the XTU test at 4.5GHZ and 1.32V were just under 80C. So I thought I was fine with 4.5GHZ at 1.32V, but I wanted to use other stress tests. LinX was my next choice, which didn't go so well. 4.5GHZ crashed pretty quickly, same with 4.4 and 4.3. 4.2GHZ was "stable" but temps hit 105C so I took a guess and brought the voltage down to 1.3V. Probably could've gone more, but I wanted to try other tests because maybe LinX is too hardcore, which is why I posted here. AIDA64 stress test for 4.2GHZ at 1.3V was stable at ~77C and 4.5GHZ at 1.35V was stable at ~83C after 1-hour stress tests each. 10-minute baseline test (no OC) was ~53C. I'm gunna take yours and @tbake0155 suggestions and start over with 4.0GHZ at 1.25V and do 20 passes of IBT. Going up from there.

Ok so I did the Prime95 Small FFTs test for 30 mins (was doing the blend test before) and it was still thermal throttling for some reason at 4.2GHZ and 1.3V. Currently doing Aida 64 CPU/Memory/FPU combined and everything seems fine so far, hovering around 80C. If it doesn't crash I might test it on 1.32V and 4.5GHZ again.

Currently, they are on 80% according to Corsair Link. 100% is crazy loud. I normally run them on silent.

Corsair H115, idles around 40-45.

I now clocked it down to 4.2GHZ 1.3V. This time it passed LinX at 8GB and 5 passes but it constantly thermal throttles at 105C. All other stress tests stay under 90C at all times even at higher voltages. Currently doing a 20 pass test.