J/C

How much of a performance increase would I be getting with the 6600k?

Will be upgrading within a few weeks, with a budget of around 350. I am a "gamer" and use the adobe suite very frequently. (light-medium video editing, and graphic design work using photoshop and illustrator) I was leaning towards getting a Xeon E3-1231 V3 and a decent b85 motherboard. But I'm wondering now if its worth stretching my budget 50-70 bucks more and upgrading to skylake. (i5 6600k, decent motherboard and 16gb ram.) What should I do?, if skylake. I'd like to know what kind of motherboard you guys would recommend. (~$90?) Thanks.

HWMonitor, HWInfo are my personal favorites.

Hey guys so I'm looking for a mic around $60 bucks and I found two options I might like and was wondering what would be better. I'm thinking of either the Blue Snowball (non-iCE) which is around 60, or the Newer NW-700 Bundle which is also around $60 w/ a phantom power adapter. What would be my best route?, are there any better mics in my price range? I will be using the mic mainly for commentary on videos and VOiP and maybe some instrument recording here and there. Thanks

So I might be upgrading within the next month or so and was wondering what my best upgrade route is. My budget is around 450, and I want to upgrade my cpu, motherboard and include a case within that budget. I am a avid gamer, and also use the adobe suite pretty frequently, (light-medium video editing, and graphic design work using photoshop and illustrator) so I am looking for a "best of both worlds" upgrade. What would be a viable upgrade for me? (I am leaning towards a Xeon 1231 V3) Any help is appreciated.

Yup for me the adhesive was very easy to take off after heating it with a hair dryer. Chances are you probably wont pull off the chip.

Don't quote me on this but I believe they do. Also from my experience G.Skill heatspreaders removed the easiest from me (no residue or anything left behind), just make sure to heat it a little bit before.

you should be fine, I took my old G.SKill Ripjaw X's heatspreader's off and worked just fine.

So a while back I posted THIS post. I thought it was fixed but I guess not. So recently I've been monitoring my pc when lagging and when playing normally and I found that both SLI Sync and the Voltage Limit stays STUCK on 1 when the lag is happening(when playing normal with no stutter/lag it just stays on 0), I'm on a single gpu. Can someone explain what SLI Sync is? anyone have any ideas as to why I'm getting this lag? I am monitoring this through MSI after burner and I can link the HW monitoring files if you guys want to take a look. If you want more info keep reading: So this is an issue that has started happening over 8 months ago where when I play games for about an hour or two the game would give me a "screen tear" like effect. There is extreme micro stutter and gets to the point where I cannot play anymore, in some games like CS:GO my fps goes from 230-250 and then dips to 160 when this starts happening, and in some games fps is perfectly fine but there becomes extreme screen tearing and micro stuttering. I've tried nearly EVERY fix I could find but nothing, I'm going nuts over this as I have not even been able to use my pc to its full potential because of this issue. My PC is practically all new parts now, besides my cpu and motherboard which are the only thing left from my original build from three years ago. (my gpu, ram, psu, etc... are all new, ordered around two months ago. Full specs listed below) What I've Tried: - Uninstalled Geforce Experience - Uninstalled and reinstalled CSGO in Steam/ Reinstall games. - Uninstalled the Nvidia HD Audio driver. - Tried Unplugging my second monitor out, tried new cables. - Uninstalled and clean installed drivers(audio, video etc...) - Cleaned PC - Reinstalled windows (issue started after an upgrade to windows 8 from 7) - Practically all my parts are new now. (only leaves cpu or motherboard if this is a hardware issue) - Run memtest86, defrag, etc... - Reset bios - Power options, both for windows and nvidia control panel (max performance) Extra: - No this isn't your typical screen tear, I know what it looks like, I'm a fairly "tech savy person" and have been working a few times a week (for many months...) researching online to fix this issue and still have not found anything. What I'm getting is extreme micro stutter and also this affects ALL games once in starts even games like minecraft. - Temps are perfectly fine, GPU full load maxes at 72C, and CPU at 55C - Also my GPU is OC'd a little bit, but this issue has happened before my gpu upgrade as well so this most likely isn't the issue. (I've tried with other gpu's same result, and have tried with the OC off) - To cope with this issue and the ONLY fix I found was putting my pc to sleep and turning it back on or restarting and then it works find for another hour or so. Any help is appreciated thanks guys.

Hyper 212 EVO?

matchmaking,

Ah alright, glad its fixed. Np

Did a restart do anything?, or is it still missing on windows?

As soon as you start your PC, you need to repeatedly press the assigned key. (Usually the delete key, but can be something else like F2. Google your motherboard to find the exact key or take a look in your motherboard manual.)

Don't use skype anymore, feel free to quote me and reply and I'll be happy to help. I'm sure others will be more than happy to help as well.

Start > Search "Disk Management" > Your drive should show up as "Unallocated" > Right Click "New Simple Volume" follow the steps and you should be good. If it doesn't show up there, check your bios to see if its detected and try a simple restart. When I install a drive, I usually have to boot into windows, and restart one time for it to get detected. (idk why)

IMO I'd go with the Galax... cause looks.

Try reinstalling the cooler, at stock those temps seem pretty high. there's no way you can get a stable OC. EDIT: also for higher OC's I'd get a slightly better cooler.

From Newegg "Warranty Info" Limited Warranty period (parts): 2 years Limited Warranty period (labor): 2 years

Do you mean you want to split parts of the videos? If so just click "s" at a certain time and you can move the clip around anywhere.

Usually "desktop" external drives need to be plugged in (to an outlet) with the cord they give you. (unlike portable ones which are powered by the usb cord)

Nope, power supply is too low, and also seems like a generic psu brand. (wouldn't be safe)

All good, and I used Seatools (its a seagate drive) and got errors I'll be using the warranty most likely. It looks like there was a process that kept starting, and it forced it to run chkdsk on it over and over.