NecroFlex

I'm having issues with both microphones and the top speaker, the bottom one works (the audio jack also doesn't work). I did an oopsie, phone fell from my workbench and my instinct (sadly) kicked in, quite literally, when i tried to catch/soften the fall of the phone with my foot, kicking it into the wall. (pro tip, don't do that when it's a knife and you only have socks on your feet) The phone itself is fine, but both the microphones aren't working, the top speaker isn't working and the audio jack isn't working either, the bottom speaker works just fine. Charging also works normally. Googling the pic of the motherboard showed that there's no SUB board, it's all one big motherboard with both microphones on the board and the top speaker and audio jack connected via ribbon cables. Is it possible that kick/wall hit somehow damaged both microphones and dislodged a bunch of stuff inside? I did a phone software update prior to this happening with no calls inbetween the update and me kicking the phone against the wall, so i can't tell if it was the update or the hit that did this. Is there any way to test without opening the phone up? EDIT: i'm getting a new phone anyway, but having a backup doesn't hurt.

Already tested it, i do have an M.2 to PCIe x4 adapter and then took a mining x1 adapter to x16 to plug a radeon 5450 in it and it found it with no issues, probably because the BIOS is similar enough that it has the hybrid option still in there, but unused due to no actual GPU on the board itself. I just thought there could be a better and smaller way of doing this, thus the idea of an MXM GPU.

Yeap, it's for shits'n'giggles, it's an HP EliteOne G2, which has an i5-6500 with 8GB of ram in it. Some models come with a dedicated R5 360 GPU, but this one is without it. Price isn't an issue honestly, this is more out of boredom and curiosity. PCIe to MXM adapters can be cheap, have one that's x1 and tested it with a Quadro 3000M, which worked and showed up in windows (not on this AIO, but some other system a while back). But you're right, it would be better to get an M.2 to PCIe and then attach a small GPU, something like a GT 1030 or RX 550 etc. Low profile and such.

I've been looking around but haven't found any, got an M.2 on an AIO, the slot is next to an empty space where a GPU would be if it was integrated into the motherboard. So there's some room there for DIYing. I was hoping to find an adapter that would fit into the M.2 slot and continue into an MXM slot for a laptop GPU to fit in, but i can't seem to find any at all. Do they even exist? I know an M.2 slot has quite the power limit of around 8W, but that shouldn't be a problem if there was a way to add power to it anyway.

I hav an older Odys Wintab 9 plus 3G tablet. It has an Atom Z3735F and 2GB of ram, which is the main issue. The tablet has W10 installed, tried to debloat it, so the ram usage is around 1.2GB at start. For just reading and music, it's ok, but the slowdown is felt. The tablet has an M.2 slot with a huawei 3G modem inside, but i have no use for it, so i thought of putting something else inside. It's a B key, so new NVMe obviously don't fit. I already tried an M.2 SATA SSD and an Optaine disk, none recognised, so i'm guessing it's either fully locked to only accept that modem or it's specifically PCIe exclusive. Is there anything out there i could use in that slot? Preferably to boost performance (tried Optaine so i could potentially use it as cache to slightly offset the load from RAM). Here's the pic of the slot and modem:

I want to make a portable speaker, big one since i have a lot of leftover unused speakers where i can harvest "membranes" from (some are from old home theatres, some from unused car speaker upgrades etc.) I saw i can get a nice BT amplifier with basically everything built in already for connecting the speakers to it and power. The main thing is, most of these are between 9-24V, some more powerful go up to 36V. I want to make a battery system for it from leftover e-scooter batteries, which are 36v (42v max charge), so i'd need a dc-dc step down that also has the option to connect and charge a battery, while being able to provide atleast 10A of power. I can find normal step down converters, but none have a battery option...or could i just hook it up some other way? EDIT: if this pic makes sense of what i wanna do:

So if i get another router, place it into my cabinet that has the switch and then change the living room router to AP mode, i should be able to find the printer?

That's why i said at the beginning that this might be impossible. Switch first, then modem, the opposite of what you drew. Problem is that the main cable too short, so i needed the switch. Could have used the router, but this is in a small nightstand ontop of which my PC sits, so it's quite hidden and the wifi signal would be crap in it.

i tried but it didn't find it. As i said, the main cable goes to a switch, which then provides internet to my PC and the wifi router. The printer is attached to the router, so it's not directly connected to the switch.

the main cable goes to a switch, which then provides internet to my PC and the wifi router. What's before the main cable, no clue, i know it's switches, because it's a shared internet for 7 apartments... The printer has its own IP, doubt it changes it.

So right off the bat i'll say that what i want might be impossible, but maybe someone has an answer. I live in a small apartment with the only ethernet cable from the wall coming to my room. That cable is connected to a normal gigabit switch. On that switch i have my main PC connected and a cable running out of my room to the wifi router (Netgear JNR3210). Because i don't have enough space in my room for a printer (Canon MF226dn), that printer is in the living room, connected by ethernet to the wifi router. My question is, am i even able to connect to my printer via my main PC that's on the switch, or would i have to be connected to my wifi router in order to print from the printer? Cause windows itself cannot find the printer at all, even if i use the IPV4 address it has to try and find it.

When it comes to software and most things outside of Windows and MacOS, i'm not that skillful. I presume DD is a Unix command from what i googled? That would mean installing any Unix distro then? Which would be recommended/friendly for someone who hasn't done much in Unix at all? Also, would this work with PCIe risers too? Since not many motherboards have a lot of X4 slots or bigger for the PCIe M.2 adapters, which are usually x4 or bigger.

We do boot into sysprep since we have to activate windows, we do basic checks if everything is working fine/no oddities, but we don't do any long run tests for each PC/laptop. I tried but it says there's another instance already open.

I'm looking for a disk cloning software, that'll let me clone 1 disk or an image of that disk to multiple disks at once. I work at a company where we sell a lot of new PCs and laptops, a wholesale. We get a lot of requests for fx. 250 laptops that we need to upgrade to bigger SSDs, which also means reinstalling windows. For now we've been doing it by hand using a USB with Ventoy to boot into macrium reflect to select the image we prepared from one already fully updated PC and then cloning that to the laptop. It's an ok process, but i feel like we could speed it up by putting in already cloned disks. I tried to google around, but i couldn't find any software or any mention that a software can do multiple clones at once. I know there are special HW arrays that you put an NVMe disk in and it clones it to multiple disks, but those range from hundreds to thousands of dollars for something that feels like a proper software with addon PCIe M.2 adapters should handle for 1/10th the price. Any ideas? I know Macrium doesn't have that option and i think EaseUS doesn't either.

Lenovo doesn't seem to have any earlier versions, tried to find it but no luck.