Anonymous1b

LOL Thanks everyone.

Is there any difference between the SATA cable used for a SSD and a hard drive? In order to upgrade my PC with a new GPU, I had to unplug a bunch of stuff and now I don't know which one was in the SSD and which one was in the hard drive.Does it matter? This is what they look like: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=4ED10AD967C3A43C!235738&authkey=!AJV5Vh92lpbTYpI&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg AND https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=4ED10AD967C3A43C!235737&authkey=!ACm3M4PEdexlhr0&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg

Thanks for answering, even if late (if course,I replied even later!). Anyways, the problems seems to have something to do with Display Porton the monitor. Using HDMI solved all the problems...but since this is a G-Sync monitor, that's another problem and not a solution...

I don't think that's going to be particularly easy, not to mention the fact that I'll now have to assemble everything myself. So, anyways, based on the advice given above, I tried to reinstall Windows and I have the same blank screen problem that I had before. The installation started and even had a bit of progress but, after the first of the many restarts in the process, I now have a blank screen. The system is running but there's no display output...What do I do?

Thanks a lot! I don't see how that could be the issue but before downgrading, I'll first nuke the current installation and re-install to see if that works.

Precisely. Now, if one of you guys could tell me what - or even if you don't know how to fix it, could just point me toward which part is faulty so I can have that replaced - I'd appreciate it.

Before that, I quoted my opening post saying that I had, even going so far as to embolden the relevant part.

I don't have a GPU yet. That's because I'm looking for the Zotac Amp! Extreme specifically and that's out of stock for the next two weeks so I'm making do with the Intel graphics for now. As for the shop, it's not the US. They maybe will but that's a big maybe. Their idea of 'warranty' is simply that they won't charge me to process a replacement from the manufacturer.

Hey guys! So, I just bought a new PC, which was assembled for me by the shop. And, now that I've started using it, I've got quite a few problems. First, though, here are the specs: OS: Windows 10 64-bit CPU: Intel Core i5-6600K CPU Cooler: Xigmatek Colosseum Motherboard: Asus Z170 Gaming Pro RAM: 2x 8GB Kingston Hyper-X Fury 2600 SSD: Samsung 850 Evo 250GB HDD: WD Blue 1TB PSU: Season M12II Bronze 750W Monitor: Acer Predator X34 The issues: 1. I randomly have 'thump' or 'pop' sounds coming from my monitor speakers. Also, when playing something, the audio often stops and it's a stop-start sequence, where the audio plays for 10-20 seconds then stops for a while then starts and so on. At first, I was chalking this up to the monitor, because the Predator X34 has had quality control issues but I'm not so sure now. This is also not a persistent problem. Sometimes, I can have a whole session without any problems and at other times, not so much. The computer going to sleep/restarting/shutting down seems to be the trigger but, then again, when that happens, the monitor also goes to sleep/turns off so maybe that's the trigger. 2. At times, Windows will randomly just go crazy and the taskbar will be visible but the right side of it (where you have the time/date/wifi/speakers and so on) just disappears. After this, the system is just crazy. I can open some apps but not others. Most of the normal stuff you can do on Windows just stops working. And, this isn't something that has happened only once but multiple times now. 3. At other times, the whole screen just goes blank and all I can see is the cursor. This usually happens after I restart the computer/power it on but has also happened after everything seeed to be working perfectly and I was on the lock screen but it suddenly blinked and bam! The screen went dark, with only the cursor. NOTE: Ok, so, when the PC came, it didn't have Windows so I installed it myself but, after it started and I left for a while to let it do its thing, and then returned a little while later, there was just a black screen. I let it remain like that for, I don't know, 30 minutes before doing a hard reset. Then, when I tried to boot using the SSD, it wouldn't work. I tried booting using the USB drive through while I was installing the thing and it didn't work either. Then, I chose a bunch of the options and it just did and booted me into Windows 8. I then upgraded to 10. Anyways, I first thought that some problem during this time was leading to my issues so I reset Windows and it's still the same but I thought I should explain it, in case it has some relevance. I'm a total newbie to DIY builds (which is why I let the shop assemble it for me) so I'm wondering what I should do. Any help would be appreciated. On the audio front, I was first thinking it was something to do with the monitor but now I'm not so sure since I've read about the Z170 Gaming Pro having other audio issues. It's not the same as mine but, well, it does make me wonder. Before you say install the latest drivers, I've already gone to Asus's website and done so. Also, resetting Windows obviously didn't solve 2 and 3 so I'm not sure exactly what's going on.

Well, obviously, when Bethesda bought the rights to the franchise, they also bought the publishing rights to all current and future Fallout games. So, currently, yes, Bethesda is the publisher as they're the ones who are paid when you buy the older games.

Bump! In the first ten minutes, you guys were jumping over each other to answer and in the next ten, the whole thread went dead! How does that happen?

Like I've said, most likely not. I might, however, want to in the future, when the system is 3 years or something old and most of the warranties have become redundant anyways. I'd like to have the option, if possible, but not if it's at a significant cost.

Oh, and thanks everyone, for replying!

So, even 650W will work just fine? Here I was thinking 850 would be bare minimum and I'd have to end up with 1000W. (Also, in case I want to upgrade to a SLI 3 years down the line, exactly how much power will I be left with if I go with the 650/850W?)

Sorry, I'm used to this other forum where every time I reply, I automatically follow. I'll be using it for gaming primarily, yes. So, you guys think I should go down to a i5-6600K? Or, even just the i5, without the 'K' overclockable edition?