Dzzs

Ah that very well could be it. At my house at least there are 20 or so devices using the 2.4 band for better range and wall penetration. Maybe I'll just deal with this one instead of spending more on a different one to likely have the same problem. I didn't know bluetooth used 2.4GHz thanks for the info!

I don't have much experience with bluetooth mice so please excuse my ignorance here. Currently I have a few year old bluetooth mouse that appears to be an older gen of the Microsoft Modern Mobile Mouse. From day one it has felt inconsistent. Across many different computers, operating systems, and locations it has the same inconsistent feeling. A very minor input delay which I would expect compared to my usual wired or G903 mice and high refresh rate monitor. The input delay isn't the issue, but this inconsistent tracking is very annoying. It's not bad enough to assume a faulty mouse but it's definitely noticeable. Is this just a normal thing for bluetooth mice due to the nature of them? If this is not normal behavior for a bluetooth mouse can anyone recommend any solid and portable ones please? I got this one because it had the flat magic mouse form factor but has two actual buttons and a scroll wheel. Those are my only real requirements. Real left and right click buttons, scroll wheel, and preferably a longer flat design over the shrunken down claw grip ones. Thanks a ton for any information or recommendations!

I was afraid that was the problem. It's caused issues in the past, but a clean install means so much time setting things back up I've always avoided it.

How bad is doing a fresh install these days? Most of my games and data is on either my other drives or network storage. So data loss isn't a concern. I will just have to spend a few hours finding all the installers and tweaks for things I've done over the years. At this point I would have been better off just doing a fresh install, but with so much time spent trying to fix it now I would prefer not to. I can't just ignore it and continue using 1803 now that I know I'm having this issue it's going to bother me until I get it fixed.

I'm trying to update from 1803 (17134.1006) to 1903 so I can use the Xbox Game pass to download games which requires 1903. Posting here is my last resort before a clean install of Windows which I really don't want to do. I've spent the past 2 days looking all over and doing everything suggested with no luck. I'm hoping maybe someone here knows how to interpret some logs or anything to help me fix this. Windows 10 64bit (same install that upgraded long ago from Windows 7) Intel 5820k overclocked to 4.4GHz (completely stable for years shouldn't be an issue) Gigabyte Extreme Gaming 980ti 32GB Ram Samsung 950Pro 512GB M.2 SSD (C drive) Old 128GB Samsung SSD 3TB Seagate HDD What I've tried.. Removing all antivirus (Kaspersky and Malwarebytes) Update Nvidia drivers Remove all USB devices except mouse and keyboard Check for updates in the default updates way with nothing available (including 1903 not being offered) Restarting windows update service Running the different windows repair commands (although if those could be shared to try again and save for future reference that would be great) Checking for yellow *!* for driver issues in device manager Disabling as many startup programs and services as possible Windows update assistant for 1903 specifically Windows 1903 .iso (only way I got any error messages) There's probably more I've tried but I'm so frustrated at this point I can't remember. I do have other network drives that I haven't disconnected if that can cause issues like the external USB storage can. Everything goes fine up until the final restart then it stays in the motherboard splash screen loading for a while doing some restarts then eventually just pops back into windows after reverting to 1803 and gives the error code (0xC1900101 - 0x20017) failed in the SAFE_OS phase. I only get that error if I use the .iso setup.exe. Any other method just reverts to 1803 with no indication of what happened. These logs from C\$Windows.~BT/Sources/Panther seem to be relevant from what I've seen? Uninstalling Malwarebytes did make the setuperr log shorter but that uicciso.dll is still there and 32 bit hive not found thing. I have no idea what I'm looking at in those logs. I'll provide any other info required to get this sorted out, just point me to what and where you need. If anyone can please look over these logs and point out what they need fixed I would be beyond grateful. Searching that dll didn't return anything helpful. Here are those logs. Thank you to anyone trying to help! https://www.dropbox.com/sh/tzjm8rim8z7pn04/AADsKUAqSuNaxx7X2PaxYvaYa?dl=0

So I'm overclocking my AMD FX-8350. I've found it's stable limit, but the temp is a bit of an issue at this level. I'm just using a ThermalTake 240mm aio cooler. I replaced the stock fans with some high static pressure corsair fans and only have them getting 12v and ground wires so they're 100% all the time. Sound isn't an issue. I found that I can get up to 4.92GHz with +.150v without any crashes. My safe package temp is 70c. In prime95 everything runs fine without issues, but the package will go up to 75c then throttling will kick in making the frequency jump around to keep the temp around 68c. Now I know the general rule of thumb would be lower the frequency so I can drop the voltage to have better temps. My question though, is this an ok level to leave things at if my cpu is never above 80% (at stock 4.0 speeds)? Right now idle with 4.92 and +.150v the temp is 28-35c. Under a normal gaming load it's around 50c. So again, as long as things stay stable, is this an ok place to leave things if my cpu usage isn't going near 100% where throttling occurs? If you're curious why I'm overclocking, it's because Arma 3 is horrible with a cpu bottleneck while only using 25% cpu. This cpu overclock has gotten me an extra 3-4 fps.