Revan654

I had two similar issues with limited access. The first can only be corrected by your isp provider 1. My ISP had to come out and re-run some wiring and some how the one connector that connects from the inside to the outside became very lose. Once those fixes were applied everything returned to normal. 2. The second issue was due to drivers on my network card were not getting along with Windows. I could never get a proper fix for this due to most of the issues were at Windows 8.1 end. Once Windows 10 was applied it seemed to fix most of the problems, from time to time the issues does pop-up. I just disable and re-enable the device to fix it. Also have you tried other web browsers just to see if it's only chrome creating the issue? Not sure if you can do this or not, if you have access to any ftp sites see if you can download at your normal speeds. Could be a bug in software creating all this.

Yes and No. It's will be based on how the LED's are wired. Some of the controllers use different setup then Motherboard headers. I'm not sure what setup Gigabyte uses for Fusion headers. RGB350 does say Compatible with Gigabyte. It looks like only there RGB100 and RGB380 series don't work with motherboard header.

The PSU side will only accept 8 key connectors. You do 8-pin to 6-pin (but leave two of the wires off). Slot 7 and 8 which will not be used(There both ground wires).

I would use DarkSide RGB controller, it can plug directly into the PSU. Link: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product-category/lights/rgb-led/ RGB Controller: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/custom-configurable-colour-dual-rgb-led-controller-with-remote/ or Single version: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/rgb-controller-44-key-single-power-feed/ 5V RGB Controller(Digital RGB): https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/digital-rgb-8-way-controller-with-remote-control-5v-leds-only/

They use the thinner 16 AWG. Which is around 2mm mark. They also can use 15 AWG from MDPC-X if you request it. Only reason they use 18 AWG is JMT terminals can't properly crimp 16 AWG. The wings are to small to get around the wire(I've tried a few times, Only JMT short Sata works correctly). There are long wing versions which can be used on 16 AWG. JMT does make them not sure why Singularity Computers never added them to there store. I do believe Moddiy carries them. Molex version even though suggested for 18 AWG will work on 16 AWG as long as you don't surpass the 2.6mm OD. The wing span are longer then JMT. Pushdown style has no issue getting 16 AWG inside the teeth. I've even gotten 2.6mm OD wire inside molex Pushdown style.

Yes, Melting process creates the best hold. You can pull all you want if done properly the sleeving is not coming out. I have a box full of Cablemod cables with sleeving that came out of the terminal. ---------- Terminals: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0675810011_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml ^ These are the highest grade of gold you can get on a Sata terminal. Connectors: https://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0675820000_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml For Push Down Style: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-67926-0012 ^ These are the ones I use and are highest grade. End Caps: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=D%2by4jQJzx8Lk7varBV3GFQ%3d%3d Pass Through Caps: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=D%2by4jQJzx8KQDikq%2bMbTlg%3d%3d Tool (If you want it): https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/?qs=3OKVfsn1b5CX1XdFsIO98Q%3d%3d -------- Just Incase you need to make any MATE-N-LOK aka "Molex" Cables. Molex does not make them anymore, You will have to buy them from TE. Terminals (Gold Plated): https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/60619-5?qs=%2fha2pyFaduggvABNODO5aTm6xsobEJsQ5%2bS7dLW1alI%3d Connector: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/1-480424-9?qs=%2fha2pyFadujpv4rcdzZDERRC46O2waGYh24f1MK8h60WwkxTT3%2bbuA%3d%3d Top: TE Bottom: JMT

No, since there to many options of colors to pick from. Plus Sleeving is not that complex to start with, I tend to re-sleeve cables that are pre-sleeved already. Real quick examples of my sleeving.

Avoid Plastidip, it peels off very easily. Not to mention the Plastidip can version gunks up very easily. I use Spray paint (Cardinal Paint). The paint is still holding to this date and it's been years since I painted the parts. Some cardinal paint has a texture to it.

Terminals support up to 3mm. Your not putting the sleeving inside the terminals it's goes over the terminal. Take a close look at the photo I posted. Companies like Cablemod do climp there sleeving to the terminal and should not be copied. It creates a bad crimp to the wire. Secondly the sleeving can detach is your not careful. Not to mention the sleeving CableMod uses is paper thin(thinner then Paracord 95). Plus there process is done by machine, it's not something that can be done by hand since melting the sleeving creates a much stronger hold. Going to need to explain that a little bit better because I'm not following.

It doesn't matter really for sleeving Since MDPC-X can expand up to 8mm wide. Molex Terminals can't accept anything over 3mm, I personally use 2.5mm wiring. For Cable Combs most of the standard ones accept between 3 to 4mm. Which will accept MDPC-X easily with 2.5mm wiring. I have carbon Fiber Cable combs, Which are currently the highest grade of material you can buy for cable combs. @Mnpctech lurks in the forums from time to time and can explain there combs. Link: https://mnpctech.com/buy-stealth-cable-combs-for-pcs/carbon-fiber-cable-combs/ singularity computers has started to make there own version of cable combs which looks very impressive. Link: https://www.singularitycomputers.com/product-category/custom-wiring/sc-custom-cable/ Also if you want a sleeved PSU cable they also make them and test them too. Link: https://www.singularitycomputers.com/shop/peripheral-cables/sc-ion-power-cable/

Yes it can be poured down the drain, You can add water to it before pouring it down the drain if you want to be on the safe side. It is Biodegradable.

Molex site does not list everything just be aware of that. It's better to use Mouser/DigiKey and search Mini Fit Jr. - wire housing - 4.2mm pitch. For Sata/Molex you have to be careful, since EVGA and Conrsair have two completely different keys. Ensource makes the best I've seen that comes very close to Molex. They sell two different versions. Molex is suppose to be making PCiE connector in custom lot order for MDPC-X. Not sure when it will be ready. You can order directly off of MDPC-X that carry everything except PCiE right now. There all molex branded. If you want to order from mouser the 46xxxx is slowly replacing 5557 series. It's cheaper to just buy a reel for Mini Fit Jr terminals. As for Color, Molex only sells Natural, Ivory and Black. If you want other colors I suggest dying them. Which is what I did to get deep black color. Paracord is dirt cheap at most stores. Even Amazon has 100ft+ for like 8 dollars. Just make sure you buy the right type. I would look into MDPC-X sleeving, Paracord is a PIA to sleeve. If I can find it I'll post the link which I listed every single connector/part I used with my cables. MDPC-X doesn't make paracord only PET. MDPC-X sleeving is all made in-house and shipped directly from them. I ordered a few times directly from them. I also use there Crimper.

That's a bit vague, What exactly are you looking for?

I have a few that I've collected over the years. Need bit more details on what your looking for. Different lines use different splitters. I also have one splitter that can split and scale the signal if needed. It also allows custom EDID.

This is what I been working on currently: My Custom made Video encoder.

Again I was away not much time to work. Worst case scenario you can just cut the screws(Which is what I did with the 35mm to get them to 32mm). The rest of my screws were all 30mm. All my major screws came from @Mnpctech . They by far have the best quality, you may pay a little bit more but your getting quality screws that will wear&tear and are stainless steel. Farbwerk also uses different RGB input then every other RGB controller on the market. I have a standard RGB controller with Remote that I ordered awhile ago from Darkside which works with all there RGB LED's. FYI, There G2 LED(Which only come in Solid Colors) are very bright & High Quality. One LED strip could light up the entire case if you want (Minus UV version). The only way to get my farbwerk fixed would be to send it to Aqua-Computer, It would be cheaper and faster just to buy a new one. It's about 30+ to ship the item. Shame I couldn't use RGB controller, Since I created some some RGB cables that can sort lock onto the RGB input.

MDPC=X CTX3 (Which is the best 3rd party tool in my opinion and use the most up to date Molex standards) or Official Molex Tool(If you have the money). the cheaper ones usually have improper teeth are teeth are missing completely. If you have to do any smaller terminals in 2mm range I suggest using PA-09, the racket crimper are to larger to crimp the terminal without damaging them. Example of my own creation from CTX3:

Not sure why you want it for Looks or Performance. If for performance you could: Get separate blocks for each chip + VRam. Which would be the same thing as a Full monoblock.

If you can I would install a Manual Exhaust fitting on the radiator (at the highest point).

Not Bleeding, It's something else. I know Singularity Computers called it something else when they were filling the loop.

Forgot what the term is called. You sometimes have to add or remove air from the loop so the coolant can move and not be locked in by air pressure. Then the pump then can move the coolant freely.

It could have happened when it was being filled or could be from package material used. If it was leaking you would see the coolant drips and spots else too like the Bottom of the case and around the in/outlets on the radiator. Wrap and paper towel around inlet & outlet. If it still dry after 12 hours, It's not from the AIO.

Thanks. Got a few items from your shop. The screws you sells are defiantly allot better then anything that comes with the rads you buy. I just couldn't replace one set due to how different the screws are. I been away, Why the delay on the reply. - You need about 32 to 35mm screws if it needs to pass through any brackets. 30mm if it just needs to pass through the fan(maybe a bit more since GTR require longer screws). - The PWM problem is mainly for there older Fans. The SP if I recall correctly. You also have to be careful of the voltage and it does not surpass the threshold. So far 8 per channel and I have zero issues, they been running for a few hours on my one test. - Not sure if Lamptron even supports Fully PWM. Allot of the so called PWM are nothing but fake DC controller channels. MLPro's have to run in PWM or they will start to grind and make noise(Due to how Mag Lev tech works). - PA3's are only for DC fans, There not for PWM. You can buy Slave units and connect them. - The Farbwerk is giant PIA, I could never get mine to work correctly. I select Blue and you get some odd shade of it or it has a green tint to it. I just went with Solid Colors & I also have a standalone RGB controller installed just incase I need it.

- Corsair uses Capacitors to reduce the ripple effect. You can read about the Type 4 cables on there Blog Here: https://www.corsair.com/ww/en/blog/Explanation-of-RMi-New-Type-4-Cables - I never used Corsair PSU. I just can't go into depth about capacitors, Since I would never buy a PSU that require them. I just prefer using EVGA PSU. Just remember every PSU series uses a different pinout. There not all the same. This is across the board from Sata/Molex to EPS to GPU to FInally the ATX. - You can also build your own Pinout if needed with a Multimeter. Which is what I did with my cables. Since mine has the lease amount of wire crosses as possible. - One other thing to remember, The doubles wires from Brand to Brand are different. One Brand may only use 3 where another may use 4 or more. The Size of the connector may also be different at PSU. - Just make sure when crimping the wire strands don't enter the barrel of the terminal. They need to be long enough to pass through the conductor with strands exposed. No, has nothing to do with output. It's just uses a different key, Corsair are different uses compared to other brands. The housing/connectors from molex are rated at 13.0A(Which is more then enough for 12V or less). Most of the OEM connectors will match them. I know the thread is massive but there allot of cable information in my Build log(From PSU to Fans & USB). My Fan Cables are a bit more unique (Atlease at the time they were). I tried for every cable to be heatshrink free. I even have cable combs for them.

No, 1000x no on ThermalCrap. I have entire stacks of those fans not work and there Support just doesn't care. Just read the product description, Not all RGB strips and fans can connect to the RGB headers. Coolermaster is one of the few fans that do. InWin is another (In my opinion they are one of the best due to there linking system and quality of the fans/Products). Most Brands have there own ecosystem and require hub of some sort, Just be careful when ordering products. I use all Aqua-Computer/Asus EcoSystem for my setup.