-
Posts
301 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Status Updates
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store Home
Posts posted by shibbs
-
-
Not 100% sure, but if you'd mount the radiators with the endtanks on the side, you should be good. If it'll fit 2x140mm fans, it'll fit a pair of 120mm rads.
-
I posted about this a while ago (snatched mine up in April) and this monitor is GREAT. Yeah, it's not IPS. Whoopee.
Great monitor, multiple inputs, and fast as hell. Definitely worth the money.
-
1 minute ago, slap_shot18 said:
True, but I they have a reference cooled card. If not I know the Last gen cards did. Hopefully we see one this gen, espically for water cooling.
I'm sorry, I just re-read your original post. You're talking about reference board cards only.
We could easily expand this to more cards using the copper heated block method I posted. Then we could even compare between iterations of certain brands of cards. (TwinFrozr 4 vs 5 vs 6)
-
1 minute ago, slap_shot18 said:
I figured they could use a reference board, for instance EVGA's SC ACX 3.0 uses a reference PCB with an aftermarket cooler. Theoretically you could mount that cooler on a founders card or any other card that uses that reference PCB
Yes, but then there's MSI who (imo) has some of the best coolers, but use some absolutely ridiculously designed board that's 5 feet tall or some BS.
-
In all honesty, they could even take the card itself out of the question (because BrandA's custom PCB might not allow BrandB's cooler to mount properly) and just use a simulated die made out of copper. Load that block/die with sensors and heaters, strap it to the cooler, and then measure its performance. Linus's neighbor has a mill, he could make this easily.
-
On my board, I plugged the pump into the PWR_FAN which would shut down the computer if it detected a failure, and always ran at 100%. I then plugged the fans into the CPU_FAN header and set them up with a custom fan curve of my choosing.
-
Nothing wrong with that, just that you may get more dust in your case, as even when the computer isn't on, dust can fall in.
Just clean your case more often.
-
-
Nothing special. Your memory is more important for long uptimes than your storage.
-
59 minutes ago, Webkitnote said:
And is there something that won't kill me? I've read on Alternate site that someone who ordered it complains that it stinks like gas from lighter... shouldn't it be straight compressed air?
It's not just straight compressed air, it's actually a refrigerant---and it's got a bitterant in it to prevent people from huffing the stuff and killing themselves.
-
I just bought a Trion 150 drive because it was cheap.
After running it for a while and running some benchmarks, I can see why it was about 30% cheaper than the Samsung Evo 850. Because the performance numbers are about 30% lower.
That being said - it's still worlds faster than a platter drive.
If you can afford the Samsung Evo, do it.
-
If this is your first hardline build, I hope you got about 5 meters of tubing to allow for your inevitable screwups. haha
I needed an entire day to get my run set up, but I have 2 separate radiators, one in the back and one up front.
-
My first computer was all at once. From then on, it's been one piece at a time, or CPU/MOBO/RAM combo.
-
I have the Z87 Extreme6 and it's been really good for me the last 3+ years.
-
I just built my first water cooling loop in my computer.
I used Bitspower PETG, Hardware Labs radiators, EKWB pump, reservoir, blocks and fittings, but also threw in some 90 degree Bitspower fittings, too. IMO the Bitspower fittings are a little bit better than the EKWB---they seemed to fit a bit tighter, but I've had no leaks from any of my tubing and I'd DEFINITELY recommend anything I used to the next person. This forum was TONS of help when it came to selecting quality components.
-
23 hours ago, airdeano said:
we don't do silly here.. otherwise it is a waste of time, money and the community's resources..
At one time, people thought water cooling a PC was silly, though.
"You want WATER---INSIDE a computer???"
-
You're wanting to go push-pull? Is twice the noise worth 1 degree?
-
Yeah, Linus has even given a shoutout to Monstercat in a few of his videos. A lot of their music is from the Monstercat releases.
-
-
First off, most people prefer POSITIVE pressure inside the case to cut down on dust. (More airflow into the case than out)
Depending on the layout of your case, either intake or exhaust through the AIO is just fine. Intake will get you slightly better CPU temps, exhaust will get you slightly cooler case temperatures.
I personally would have the 3 loose fans as intake, and then your dual-fan AIO as exhaust on the back.
-
14 minutes ago, SLAYR said:
You can find 970s at $250 new in some places right now microcenter (dont think that is in hungary) had one a little bit back.
Heat really isn't an issue on the 380s, or any non-reference hawaii card, unless you are literally suffocating the card, or lighting it on fire.
While I do agree with you to a point, the fact still remains that a higher TDP card has to output more heat, which can be a factor to some people--especially in a smaller form factor build.
-
If you're really set on either a R9 280/380 or a GTX 970, I'd recommend the 970. They'll overclock better than the R9 cards. Most games end up being "biased" to NVIDIA cards anyway, so you'll get better performance, too. Also less power requirements, and therefore less heat.
-
If you want good temps, just run an open test bench, since that's pretty much what you're doing if you're taking panels off and shoving a box fan in it.
-
I've seen a post where someone tried this.
They had a problem getting enough water to flow through the heat pipes for it to do anything properly. I think the main issue is that the inside of the heat pipes are NOT at all smooth, and almost completely close off on the bends. It's much easier getting a gas to move through them than water.
[Canada] Save $125 on a Huawei Watch from June 13 - June 20
in Hot Deals
Posted
The US saves $100, too. Nice!