shibbs

I ran out of drive bays in my home server, so my OS SSD is being held to the case by a cable management "spring" piece of metal. No issues almost a year later! haha

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I have the HyperX Cloud II headset, and the only reason I could see someone wanting to use an AMP or DAC is to possibly enhance the bass response. I don't use either. 

I went HGST drives. They're formally Hitachi, but now they're owned by WD, but have less failure rates than WD or Seagate.

I've got 5 of them in my server with no issues yet. I've always run Hitachi drives and never had an issue.

Give it a day. The first half a dozen times I restarted after doing a clean install on my laptop the boot and shutdown times were infuriating.

A day and half a dozen installs (yay Steam!) later, and it boots faster than it did when it was new.

What driver version are you using for your video card? 

Is it possible to do a clean, separate install of Win10 and have it dual-bootable with my existing Win7 install?

I'm not 100% sure I want to switch yet.

I like my Tuniq TX-4 because it stays pliable and doesn't dry out nearly as fast as Arctic Silver does. It may get half a degree better, but I can't judge that properly.

I have the MSI and I absolutely love it. Good temps, even overclocked, and ABSOLUTELY NO COIL WHINE! 

I have the Fractal R5. I don't use any fans on the top - I don't like them there as I set my other keyboard on top of the case.

I have the two stock fans in the front, drawing in. One fan on the bottom, in front of the power supply, drawing in. This fan seems to have the best effect on the GPU. Then I have the fan on the back by the CPU as the only exhaust. This blows through my Corsair H90 radiator. Well, the PSU is exhaust, too. All the inlets are filtered. 

So anything watercooled goes, eh?

Sorry, my PC is only using an H90, and isn't too much to look at. Just trying to feel adequate.

(don't mind my brother's horrible cable management)

Can I complain about his color coordination then?

And I'll complain about the stock CPU cooler! Blech!

Id probably get a 780Ti simply cuz you can probably get one for less, and at 1080p I cant really think of too many games that will eat through the 3GB frame buffer

The 780 Ti is the more powerful card. The only disadvantage is 3GB of memory but that's unlikely to be an issue at 1080p.

So 3GB vs 3.5GB.  Laughable difference.   :lol:

(I have a 970, and love it, aside from the recent driver issues)

Checking what firmware ver is on the drive is a start.  It mentions the firmware version in the article Goodman2265 linked.

It still doesn't work like that it best to always do the step by step process and not take into account other OCs because for all you know you could get a bad chip that may not even get to 4.2Ghz it's a lottery and there's no point in asking for general numbers unless you're willing to damage your CPU by trying to go further then what it may allow.

Correct. Always start slow. Overclocking takes time. 

Agreed with Burner, don't have PSU wiring covering the cooling hoses if you can help it.

Also rotate the pump clockwise so the feed is towards the front of the case (if you can), this will help with your hose clearing the reservoir.

Possibly a 90 degree fitting on the top of the front rad, get it out past the fan so the hose doesn't bend so much there.

Go push/pull and then you get it all   :rolleyes:

That's not how overclocking works

I think what is trying to be said here is that every chip is different.

It's a lottery. You may have great chips that overclock a lot. You may have chips that will only get a few MHZ more than the stock clock. 

For example, my 4670K will get 4.6GHz with a fairly low voltage. My friend's chip bought from the same store on the same day won't get to 4.4GHz, no matter the voltage.

I'll generally wait a month or so before doing any warranty voiding. 

Just about every major component in my computer has had the warranty voided aside from the SSD.

GPU: replaced thermal paste with TX4

CPU: Overclocked, and using a non-stock cooler

Mobo: Removed and TX4'd the coolers on that, too

PSU: actually haven't messed with this yet. Planning on swapping in a better fan eventually--not a huge fan (lol) of the zero RPM fan thing.

If you're needing new, I'd go with the GTX 960. 

I'm still having crashes and hard freezes on my 970 with the 353.38.  Trying to install the 353.49 and see if it helps. I'm grasping for straws at this point.

I've personally found Tuniq TX-4 to be the best. Temperatures aren't really going to matter no matter the paste (hell, mayonnaise provides similar temps to all the top brands) but I've found Tuniq to hold up the best over time. Arctic Silver turns to clay after a few weeks, whereas the Tuniq has always stayed nice and pliable after time for me.

I've never owned a Team Red card, but these last few months have made me consider ditching my 970, that's for sure. "4GB RAM" (with no refund available or even an apology, ffs) and now month after month of driver issues.... 

That Fury X is looking pretty sweet right now.

I completely uninstalled all the 353.XX drivers, manually deleted all the folders and driverstore entries, and then let Windows install drivers from January (forgot exact version) and my stability issues are GONE. Even disabling hardware acceleration in Chrome my computer would still hang (with audio loop, btw) and require hitting my reset button. 

EDIT: GTX970 card, btw.

I have to make my post here.

First mech was a Razer BlackWidow Ultimate with Cherry MX Blues

Currently have a DasKeyboard with Cherry MX Reds

Also got in on the massdrop on the Ducky Shine 4 with clears and browns that completed today! Can't wait for that one to arrive!

Definitely do the single 980.