Otaku_MasterRace

I'll being studying electrical engineering, and though it may be more of a matter of preference for me, I would make use of the capabilities of a 2-in-1 frequently (taking notes, sketches, etc.). In regards to what @Keg Ops advised, I may buy a less expensive 2-in-1 and repurpose my graphics card for another desktop.

Yeah, I've been looking at used Surface Books, I came here to see if there were any better options. It's probably what I'll end up doing

Here is my problem: in not too long, I will be heading off to college and I'm looking for a laptop to take up. However, due to budget constraints I won't have enough to buy a decent laptop without selling my custom built desktop, which I won't be able to take up at any rate. I have a buyer for my desktop and monitor at $450, and I have enough money to set aside to raise my laptop budget up to about $900. Here is my desktop's configuration: CPU: AMD FX-8350 MB: ASRock Fatal1ty 990fx Killer RAM: 8gb G.Skill Sniper 2133 PSU: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Case: Corsair Spec-01 SSD: PNY 128GB HDD: Western Digital Black 1TB Graphics: Nvidia GTX 960 2GB Monitor: generic 1080p display I have a few points which I would like advice on in both the sale and the laptop purchase. - Am I asking for a fair price for the desktop (good condition, 2 years old, aftermarket CPU cooler)? - I'm looking for a 2-in-1 with a bundled pen and good writing capability, as well as having performance as close as possible to my current desktop, seeing as that will be replacing it. The price range has a priority over the performance, as the most intensive tasks I do on my desktop as it stands are fairly light gaming (Warframe, older single player titles like Wolfenstein: The New Order), occasional light video and photos editing, and CAD software like Autodesk Inventor. Based on these criteria, can anyone recommend a 2-in-1 laptop with a pen that is within my price range and would be able to accomplish the tasks I mentioned before?

I've been using the PNY CS1311 for a few months. It's a pretty good SSD for a good price (50 bucks for 128 gb)

I don't think this will affect those with high-end rigs much, but this has huge implications for this shift we've been seeing to a more "console-like" experience. This will most significantly benefit lower-end and therefore cheaper hardware, and if it actually works this could mean cheaper gaming PCs being a viable option for those considering entering PC gaming. Couple that with the CSHELL idea of a single shell with a shifting UI that Microsoft is working on, things are looking very exciting for truly making the PC the best, no-compromises gaming platform. If those features take off, some of the main barriers to PC gaming - less user-friendliness/ease-of-use, cost, and relative difficulty in achieving a living room experience - are going to be significantly reduced or even removed. If that's what Microsoft's aiming for, and I think they are, this is a smart move.

This could potentially be a great thing for people with HTPCs, if this means a PC running Windows 10 would be able boot into the Xbox UI

Thank you very much for your reply. A separate opinion I got from another forum had the same conclusion — the Killer Ethernet drivers. I will take your advice and remove the old drivers manually and reinstall. Would it be a good idea to do this with the other motherboard drivers? Also, is there anything that I may have done that would have caused this driver issue? Good to know my post was in-depth, I was actually concerned I wouldn't be but I'm glad I was able to make it easier on folks like you. You guys have saved me so many times and I try to make it as easy as I can for you.

I am not very familiar with this type of subject so please forgive me if I say things that are wrong or I have missed some information that needs to be provided. Several times over the past couple of days, my computer has crashed during normal, non-stressful use(browsing the web, watching YouTube, etc.). So far, this has caused no major inconvenience but as I do school work on this computer I obviously would like to keep this from being a continuing thing. A quick Google search gave me the impression that this stop code can be the result of issues unique to each system and that someone smarter and more experienced than me would need to identify exactly what the issue was. I am providing the link to windows files I understand are required to perform this diagnosis. If any other files are required, please let me know and I will do my best to link them(at the time of writing the MEMORY.dmp file is still in the process of uploading but the crash logs are there). https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B8yLWnJwm3OELTJOWDhUMlJVN0U?usp=sharing Here is some background info about my PC, starting with the partpicker link(note: the OS is actually not OEM, it is a full retail version that I picked up the key for from Ebay when I first built the system) The PC was built about a year ago, completed in January of 2016, and for the majority of the time ran with just the included cooling solutions(a single intake fan and the stock cooler) and did not include an SSD). In December, the computer was upgraded with the new cooler and an SSD. The system was cloned to the new drive using the free version of EaseUS Todo backup and ran without issues until recently. None of the components have been overclocked and the PC has been used for fairly light gaming only. Recently installed applications included a couple new Steam games, Eset Internet Security. and the NiceHash hashing power selling program, which I picked up for experimentation, ran for about a half hour and then deleted. If I missed any information that is required to perform a diagnosis, please let me know. This happened again as I was typing this post(I did include that crash log as well) and it's becoming more frequent and quite annoying. Thank you for any and all assistance.

I did the same project awhile ago, even integrating Moonlight software so I could stream Steam games from my PC directly out of Retropie, even when at someone else's house. Good luck on your project!

Which of these boards would be the best for pairing with an FX-8350 in an HTPC? Gigabyte GA-78LMT-USB3 Asrock 970M Pro3 MSI 760GMA-P34 (FX) EDIT: I should have clarified, there will be a discrete GPU in this build(a GTX 960)

A little less than a year ago, I built my first gaming PC, and it's been serving me very well. The performance is perfect for the games I play and the programs I run, and all of the hardware is in great condition and still runs like the first day I bought it. However, I want to be able to game on my couch in the living room, with it hooked up to the TV, and also be able to move it around the house to the two other locations where I can game, in case someone else needs to use the living room. Though I do have a streaming device(a raspberry pi loaded with RetroPie and with moonlight installed for game streaming), I ultimately came to the conclusion that a small, portable PC would be the best option for me, especially considering the possibility that I will need to transport it to friend's houses. My current build is here: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/bpM7pb My question is, what would be the best, most cost-effective path to follow when building my new PC? Preferably, I would want to keep as many parts as possible. I don't require an absolutely minuscule build, just one significantly smaller than the mid-tower case I currently have. Additionally, remember that all the parts are in good condition and they produce all the horsepower that I need for my purposes, so I don't necessarily need a better-performing system, just one that fits a smaller form factor. What I was tentatively looking at was a build which involved switching out just my case and motherboard for a micro ATX AM3+ motherboard and small case. Are there better options than this? (also, I would like to keep the optical drive if possible, so I would prefer the new case have a 5.25 inch bay) Thanks for any and all suggestions!

I currently have a gaming rig that I've been using for nearly a year now, but I'd like to downsize and shift to a mini-ITX build so that I can move the computer into my living room or take it to LAN parties. The only parts I will be swapping out are my motherboard, processor and case(and memory if I end up choosing newer parts). I have an AMD FX-8350 with a GTX 960, and get pretty good performance in all of my games, but there are no options available for mini-ITX AM3+ motherboards and I've decided to go with Intel. I'm currently looking at several processors to pair with the 960 for equal or better gaming performance to the 8350: the i5-6500, i3-6100, and the i5-4590. The 4590 is a good option for me because of the fact that I can continue using my memory without selling it or scrapping it, but the i3-6100 is cheaper and the i5-6500 is the best all-around option for me at this price point. I use the computer for playing games, many of them local co-op, on a 1080p TV, and emulation(Dolphin, PCXS2, and CEMU). From what I've heard, the 6100 is more than capable of doing these jobs better than the 8350, but I'd like to know if there are better processors in terms of price-to-performance for my situation. Keep in mind I want the lowest price possible while still outperforming the 8350 for the aforementioned tasks.

I'm using the Moonlight software with GeForce Experience to stream from my PC to my Android device so I can play some of my games anywhere in my house. I've been able to add and play some games not "officially supported" by Geforce Experience streaming, but for some reason, Nidhogg isn't working. The app opens the game on my computer and I hear the audio on my phone, but all I see on my phone is a black screen. I've been unable to find any documentation of this issue and was wondering if anyone using the same software had a similar issue. I want to use my Raspberry Pi as a Steam link in my living room using the same Moonlight software and if I can't get all of my games to work, that's going to be a problem.

The motherboard was recommended to me by a friend, and I had considered upgrading my CPU later, but you make a fair point and I think I will be downgrading as you suggested. As you can imagine, my main concerns are reliability and wireless connectivity, and I will search for a motherboard accordingly. From the looks of it, this will be able to shift my price enough to compensate for buying a quality power supply. Thanks so much for your advice, it definitely helped! (also, to address your comment about future proofing, I was more meaning that I want to build a PC I won't have to upgrade for a while without compromising too much on performance and graphics. If that's the idea that you were addressing, then thank you for your input.)

I'm building a new PC to put in my living room and take to my friends' houses. I've been researching many of the individual parts of this build and their compatibility with one another, and am on the whole satisfied with what I have. However, before I buy these parts, I'd like the community's opinion on these parts both individually and as a unit. Recommendations, pointers, criticism and otherwise are all appreciated! Here is my parts list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/fXLfm8 Please keep in mind the purposes of this build when critiquing: - Portability - Small footprint - Gaming(emulation included) - Local co-op - LAN parties In addition, this build is meant to be kept on a budget. Going over the total price as it is currently is not an option for me, and neither is downgrading on the graphics card - I would like future-proofing and solid VR performance.