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flaviu.vlaicu

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Everything posted by flaviu.vlaicu

  1. If you have time can you please post the models? From what i’ve read the current thunderbolt from QNAP are with intel, at least the lower tier ones and have problems because the CPU can’t handle the bandwidth.The highest CPU is some i5
  2. Will this card work as a DAS solution between the NAS and a MAC Studio? https://www.qnap.com/en/product/qxp-10g2u3a
  3. I thought that the first pins are only for power. Is there any other solution to make this model of NAS a DAS, even over USB?
  4. So, I recently bought a QNAP TS-473A and also a QNAP QXP-T32P.When I wanted to install the card I realised that I messed up.The card does not match the PCIE slot on the NAS.The PCIe port on the NAS are x4 Gen3, two of them but don't have that first part. So the card fits in the slot but the first part of the card remains unconnected ( in air ).My question is...Can I hack it? Can I connect with the X1 cable the first part of the card and put the other side of the cable in the second slot? Do I risk burning the card or the nas? I can't manage to figure out hot this works regarding powering. The last pictures are from QNAP TVS-1288X which is the nas that the card was designed for.This NAS also cost around 3000+ euro and mine was around 600 euro, so a big difference. Any engineer advise would be highly appreciated as this is the only solution for having a DAS / NAS configuration at this price.
  5. Can someone please help me with some info?! Will the Asus Hyper M.2 : https://www.asus.com/Motherboard-Accessories/HYPER-M-2-X16-CARD-V2/ work with a Z97 motherboard? Asus Maximus VII formula.Currently I have one NVMe drive installed in the second PCIe 16x slot and it works great but I would love to add two more NVMe drives for storage.I found this solution but don't find any information regarding compatibility.I don't plan on making raid with the card.Just stand alone drive. Thanks in advance.
  6. Would you consider this a real issue as long as the card runs ok? Should I RMA only for this and stay without a card for a week and mayber after that receive one that has the same issue?
  7. Does any one of you know hot the command actually works with the latest nvflash software? I get this error : C:\Users\flavi\Downloads\BIOS>nvflash64_patched_5.527.0.exe NVIDIA.RTX2080.8192.180828.rom --wrpersrgb <R10>:<G10>:<B11>:<R20>:<G23>:<B20> The syntax of the command is incorrect. C:\Users\flavi\Downloads\BIOS>
  8. Is it possible for an app to mess up the colors for example and remain like that? Like somehow be a glitch that remained like that?
  9. The RGB connector on Gamers Nexus does not look like it is going to go out by itself
  10. So... I have an Nvidia RTX 2080 FE and when I installed it in the PC the NVIDIA logo was Green, not it turned to a RED - PINK ish color.I do not know how to make it back.Even in the BIOS section POST the color is still the same, I have also tried re flashing the card with the same BIOS and nothing.Changing the color with third party software does not work also not even with the new EVGA X1. I have seen the card the last few days change color a few times from Green to RED but now it has remained RED.Other problems besides this I have not seen.Since I do not have a transparent case or one with a windows, is it worth RMA ing it since this is the only problem? The problem is reported by others also.I have also posted the issue on the NVIDIA forum.The issue is also seen on reddit. https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/1073171/geforce-rtx-20-series/rtx-2080-logo-is-red-/2/?offset=32#5906830
  11. Has any of you had any problems with the new RTX 2080 FE? There are a lot of reports of failing RTX 2080Ti Fe on reddit and nvidia forum.If yes please explain.Some report the cards are failing after a weak of use, artifacts start popping on the screen, blue screen, crashes.
  12. The thing is the cooling of the card is not a problem because the full load temperature in furmark is no more than 70C and the fans are silent.The problem is the fan speed in idle, and the locked % of the fans that does not drop below 40%. The problem is with the noise in idle not in full load.Liquid cooling a 1000$ card is not an option taking count it's new.
  13. None of the software currently available works with the card.To make it more clear, you cannot go lower than 40% fan speed that is 1500rpm.The idle is set to ±1500, you can go higher and make a fan curve but not lower than that.I have found a new YouTube post but did not try the procedure yet.
  14. Hello, So...I had the opportunity to receive an Nvidia RTX 2080 FE and swap it for my EVGA GTX1070TI FTW2.Till now, all is good to say so in terms of build quality.The card is very well put together, premium material used for the back plate, fans, the display port and hdmi connectors look solid, also if you put the card in front of the light you can see that almost the entire back plate has contacts with the card itself and no light is passing through. The problem I am facing is that I got used to the 0db of the previous card and when I listen to music and photo editing I hear the fans of the card that from what I have read the cannot be slowed below 40% ±1500rpm.Now I am thinking if I made a good deciding with the swam despite the increased performance and maybe a better card for the long run. Has anyone found a way to lower the fan RPM of the card? I also notice that in the BIOS post the fans of the card run at lower RPM till it reaches Desktop.I also tried MSI afterburner and the new Software from EVGA but no results.Fans don't go lower than 40%. Please share some info if there is some and what do you think, will there be any BIOS update in the near future?! Regards, Flaviu
  15. Hello guys, Yesterday I have encountered the following problem.I have not turned off my PC in a while and I have it hooked up on an UPS so even if the power goes out I do not notice.Yesterday I have shutdown the computer and set the PSU to O and pulled out the power cord.I only moved the case from point A to point B without opening it.After putting the power cord back in the PSU, the PSU received power and the power LED on the motherboard are on but I cannot start it, no matter if it's from the case power button or the dedicated button on the motherboard itself.I have managed to start the PC with a reflash of the BIOS.It work ok if it shut it down restart bla bla. But if I shut it down again and pull the power cord out of the PSU I have the problem again :)) It does not want to start and I must reflash the BIOS one more time.I have dissembled the PC and only left the PSU, CPU, RAM, MOBO on the kitchen table and it worked, I have not managed to reproduce the problem once more.Could it be the motherboard or the PSU? Does it have something to do with the graphics card? So once again if I used if normal shutdown restart bla bla sleep it works perfect.Problem is when I pull the power out of the power supply it will not start again tho the motherboard had power on it.It's like it does not want to start or has a short circuit or something like that. 1) When the problem occurred I had an older BIOS and after that reflashed with a new one, but seem to do the same with the new one also. 2) After putting the motherboard out and trying to reproduce the problem it worked without any problem, but with the graphic card out. Regards, Flaviu
  16. Thank you @Sernefarian for the clear answer to my question.Problem solved
  17. Hello, Could anyone pleased enlighten me with a more specific information regarding this? Is this a warning or an actual error? Attached are pictures with model of ram and the warning. Will this cause any issues? RAM is running with XMP setting at the specified specs Regards, Flaviu
  18. Myeah just that here in Europe prices are bigger ADATA - XPG GAMMIX D10 16GB ~200$ Ryzen 7 1700 ~300$ Thanks for the tips guys will try to pull as much as I can from this rig.
  19. @IdiotPenguin, Display is at 60Hz, not planning to change it. Dell UP2516D 1440P, bought it for it's GB-R LED technology
  20. Yup, this is my current PC and I asked cause an upgrade would cost a lot.New CPU, MOBO, RAM :)) basically the entire rig.
  21. Hello, I was just wondering if the 4790K will still be enough for upcoming 2019 games. System is maxed out with 32GB DDR3 2400Mhz GTX 1080 Samsung 960 PRO Any suggestions? I also do some photo editing on the machines, no video yet.Besides that, a lot of tabs opened and that's it
  22. As long it works and no harm done, then who cares about the rest?!
  23. Hello Just wanted to drop a few lines here to mention that I have successfully delided my Intel 4790K using Rockit88 delid tool, bought from Amazon.Used my nails and some icecream wood sticks to get rid of all the black rubber sealant.After the PCB, DIE, and IHS were clean, I put a thermal tape over the line of SMD's and after that applied Conductonaut on the surface of the DIE.Remade seal between the IHS and the PCB using black silicone gasket maker and put the entire assembly back together using the Rockit 88 press.Left it for ~8H and put it back on the mobo using Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut.The cooler used is a Corsair H80i GT.In Prime 95 latest version - Small FFT, before I had ~102 Celsius.Now I have 80 Celsius.I have gained somewhere between 15 to 20 degrees. Is it worth the risk? If you have time to do it then YES! I was also afraid that I might have a fancy keychain but with the tool you feel so safe doing it.If you will do this, don't bother using anything else than Conductonaut as it will not work.Normal paste will pump out and all the oil from the thermal paste will get out of it. This is the tools used https://rockitcool.myshopify.com/ I also used this http://www.soudal.com/aerosols/Aerosols_Sealantremover_EN.html before I scraped the original sealant off. I live in Romania so I had to pay customs, VAT but it was worth it. Regards, Flaviu
  24. Did not see this 6Gb/s SAS per physical link 3Gb/s SATA per physical link PCI Express Gen3 You are tight regarding the speed.
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