turquato

Hi, Thank you for the reply. Unfortunately this drive does not have a physical on/off switch for the read/write function that most SD Cards have. I get your point about the data protection measures that are built in that protect files from being corrupted. If what you say is true, would this be part of that scenario?

Hi, Thanks for helping out. I've followed your suggested fix but unfortunately it did not fix the problem. I've included the screenshot of the process and Disk Parts reply.

Hello there, I am having an issue with my 16GB Kingston flash drive. It is detected using all my devices, however, on disk management it says that the drive is read-only. Upon using Disk Part it says that the current status of the thumb drive is read only, but, the Read Only attribute is set to OFF or NO. Could you recommend another method aside from using Disk Part or a program to which I could use to make the drive function normally again. Many thanks for the assistance. UPDATE: here's a screenshot of the drive details

Hey everyone! It's me again facing this odd error 43 on my Asus K555L with Nvidia GeForce 940M graphics. Scenario 1: Whenever I restart the laptop after a fresh install of Windows 10, everything works fine with the iGPU. But when the automatic updates kick in, it downloads the Nvidia drivers for the 940M and when it is installed, the computer restarts and shows nothing (same thing happened after manually installing the latest Nvidia Drivers). The screen is lit up but it's just a black screen. I repeated the process several times and still goes displays a back lit black screen. I then proceeded with installing Linux distros but the same thing happened, a black screen with its backlight on. After a few days of testing with software, I proceeded on doing something Louis Rossman would smack me in the head for. Yes! I tried heating the GPU and its memory. Scenario 2: So I've heated the the GPU and its memory. I tried a fresh install of Windows 10 and all went fine. Then I installed the latest Nvidia drivers. Please check the images I've attached. This didn't happen previously. The laptop is running on iGPU while the Nvidia drivers were installed. In Scenario 1 this would only be a back lit black screen. But to my surprise the OS has disabled the 940M GPU due to Error Code 43 and continues to be usable. My Thoughts Has anyone experienced this before? Has anyone ever tried to fix this successfully with or without the magical power of a heat gun? Please let me know how I could remedy this (aside from just using the iGPU). I've tried installing and reinstalling drivers & various operating systems. DDU has always been there during Safe Mode. Any help provided is highly appreciated.

I'm really hoping to find a cheap board replacement. 170USD and up + shipping would be a tough pill to swallow. I'll let you guys know whenever I get a replacement board or a replacement chip. @Kilrah thanks for helping out.

So it seems. I guess I should start the hunt for that specific chip. is it specific? I'd say you're on point with the "fried" components. that laptop lights the charging LED but does nothing. won't power on. definitely this chip took some components with it.

yes, that's the actual chip, removed from the board. the only visible print is the realtek logo

I'm currently searching for dead boards. but that's a gamble since I don't really know if the component I'm after is either working or not...but yeah, that's how it is with used parts. And I'm still waiting for folks that knows what the part number of the chip I'm looking for.

that is a good idea. but purchasing a defective board would still cost quite a bit. shipping cost is what takes the prices to another level.

hoping to find replacement boards cheaper than 170USD. took the board out and no visible texts next to the chip in question.

would you happen to know the part number of that chip? maybe you have had experience with these kinds of things.

it's near the Ethernet, HDMI, USB 3.0 ports and a card reader.

Hello! A friend of mine bought an Acer Aspire Laptop a few years back. Acer Aspire 3 A315-51 Series Acer Aspire 3 A315-51-39XM (Intel Core i3-6005u) Model No.: N17Q1 What I'm really here for is about a chip found on the underside of an M.2 slot, that somehow blew up / burned / melted itself. Here's an image of the board I found off the internet which I've encircled red with a blue arrow pointing towards it. The second image is of the actual chip, marked with the Realtek Logo (the crab looking thing). I was wondering if someone knew what this chip was for or what the part number is so my friend and I could look it up, find a replacement and have it repaired. We couldn't travel to any Acer repair centers at the moment due to the pandemic and repair centers are about 4-6 hours away from where I'm from. Edit: when the laptop is plugged in to the wall, the charging LED lights up but pressing the power button does nothing. Could this be an isolated problem? or did the blown chip took down some of the neighboring components with it? Many thanks!

hey @Likwid thanks for the immediate reply. I did try changing ram slots before. I also did use just the single stick of ram on different boards supporting much higher frequencies.

So I have a stick of 2GB DDR3. when installed alone in a compatible board, nothing appears on display nor beeping sounds. but when another stick of ram is installed, the computer boots, but only a single stick is detected by the BIOS and the OS. But while using CPU Z, and a 4GB stick is installed together with the 2GB stick (ram in question). The 2GB stick appears but with very limited information displayed on CPU Z. The 2GB stick has not been in use for quite some time but has been placed in its original container so to avoid damaging it. What could have caused this problem?

You guys guessed it correctly...thank you so much for the answers.

haha...true! sorry I didn't provide the specifics. its a DeepCool Maelstrom 240T. I never saw one with that thing on the radiator. however, I now know what it is. it is actually the fill-port. I saw it from Greg Salazar's video. He had a DeepCool Captain and the having compared the two, that part in question was mentioned as a fill-port.

How would the serial number help? ?

I was thinking that its the fill port too or the anti-leak valve but I don't really know what it is since there are no specifics with regards to the radiator of this AIO model. I've check their site already but thats the only thing I have of it. Sorry for the low res image. I was just thinking maybe there are forum members that have purchased this AIO.

I was thinking that its the fill port too but I don't really know what it is since there are no specifics with regards to the radiator of this AIO model. I've check their site already but thats the only thing I have of it. Sorry for the low res image

Hi, Does anyone know what's the purpose of the encircled portion of the radiator for?

I agree that it'll cost me, but compared to the price of one (1) Noctua Fan brand new, I could buy me about 4-8 scythe slim fans and still have extra. How can you say that it has no practical benefit? Have you tried it before or have read something about it? Can you point me to it please. Yes, I'm aiming for aesthetics but I am not keen on removing the bracket as I am using it as the tie down point for some of the thick mess at the back.

Why not? I've tried the push-pull config in the case before, but because of the cable shroud of the S340, I was not able to fit another 120mm or 140mm fan on top of the rad to make it completely push-pull config. So instead of using four (4) regular thickness fans, I was only able to use three (3) 2fans as intake (push), one (1) at the bottom for pull and the top was left empty.

thinking about what you said, I still haven't bought the scythe slim fans, and I might stick with the current stock fans. but if anyone has other inputs about this, please comment on.

PARTS IN HAND: NZXT S340 DeepCool Maelstrom 240T AIO (wih 2pcs stock fans) WHAT I WANT TO DO: Could I use 4pcs Scythe 120mm slim fans (12mm thick) on push-pull config? Are these fans any good? If not, what are the best alternative slim fans I could get?