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Everything posted by Naveronasis

  1. I was literally just about to post this very same thread. Showing the difference between what reviewers have been tearing down, and what all the promo material says. I have been using TUF boards since... 3770k and they have all been extremely reliable. I miss the thermal shielding on the newest non-x299 versions. Software (ai-suite) is good when it works, though when it works seems to be never. I wanted a TUF 3080 or 3090 BEFORE seeing the problems, now I want one even more. Idk if I'm happy it will be the most reliable, or sad it will be harder to get. Hopefully the 3070 comes out and the pressure will be off, except in winter time my job goes into overtime from nov til January so it's the worst time of year for me.
  2. Trying to decide on the best method to do a local redundant drive. Now understand, I know that for backups cloud storage or a NAS or other dedicated external solution is best. I don't care. I want to do what I want to do. So given the limitations here we go. Using my main PC I wan't to have some semblance of automatic parity for active projects and files. A long time ago (2007) I had 4 drive raid array managed through windows that worked fine. Eventually it fell out of sync and while I was able to recover all of my data easily (only 1 drive "failed" to sync) It wouldn't rebuild the array. Whatever, fine, mission accomplished the data was safe. I want to do something similar again. I'm just using windows 10, I will be upgrading soon (And this won't be setup until I have the new Motherboard). Should I go with another windows raid? Or motherboard raid solution (probably going AMD Ryzen 9 or TR) If so.. Should I bother with Raid 5/10 or just mirror the drives? The primary used of this array will be to dump large collections of files, maybe some active use for large video editing projects. So photo's, rom's, word docs, video files, just locally not over a network so if I decide to mount a rom/play a video file I don't have to wait on the cloud or my home network to keep up or buffer.
  3. or a 7950gx2 I love those thing's I want one to use as a decoration.
  4. I wonder if they ever made a 290x with a dual fan so I can test smaller cases too. Good one.
  5. Yeah I thought maybe I could just look up power consumption statistics because power basically is heat, but It's been hard finding a decent "list" compiled in one place. But those did come to mind.
  6. Is there a relatively current NOT blower style card that runs kind of hot in the 100-200 dollar range? I was thinking of doing some case reviews and I'm trying to build a low-cost system that produces above average heat to sort of get real world comparable results by transplanting the same system to various cases then loading them with a specific set of fans to compare. It's going to be more than just "graphs" opinions about how nice it is to build in and features will be included ill leave the hardcore laboratory stuff to gamers nexus. Anyway, none of that is important. I just need to find a graphics card that recirculates heat into the case and produces a decent amount of it, without breaking the bank or requiring a massive overclock.
  7. Well the R7 has 2 5.25" bays but the problem is what I use them for. I make blu ray discs on occasion and still have an optical drive, but more important I use the second bay for a custom front panel connection board. The downside is the R7 has a door on the front, and isn't meant to be seen with the door "Always Open" as it would be in my case. this isn't a vanity project (well not entirely) my desk looks somewhat borg like with all the cables, but ill often have multiple devices quick charging or multiple external drives working on projects, etc. So right now my front panel has a 6 port usb3 with 4 quick charge ports and a card reader bay installed next to the Blueray drive. I also have a front panel control board installed to give me toggle switches for all the internal lighting and whatnot, but I suppose that is optional. (as it's inclusion would require 3 bays at least)
  8. Right now I have an ancient Mountain Mods H2GO case. I love it's full atx hoizontal deisgn but its... extremely dated... by today's standards. Is there anyone else who still makes custom cases that aren't designed from scratch anymore? (aka not looking for protocase) Short of that I want a new case but I have some unusual specifications. Specifications: 2x or more 5.25 drive bays. Space for at least 5x 3.5" drives. Non-horizontal GPU mount option that does not block PCI slots. So alternative mounting, or 90 degree rotated case, or horizontal MB config. Full ATX motherboard support. Glass/Acrylic window. One of the things I like about the H2GO case is the space it has for upto 6x mechanical drives and how the bottom fans are so close and blow air DIRECTLY onto the GFX card. I have gotten better cooling results out of the H2GO's fan configuration than out of water cooling thanks to this, though I do plan to completely water cool future builds anyway. I also like the footprint of the case, being compact but with enough space to cram all kinds of full size stuff into it. What I don't like is how much it costs in 2020, how poor the window options are. The too-low clearance for modern air cooling in a pinch. So I was entertaining alternatives and finally after almost 20 years retiring this case to a backup or HTPC. In the image below (not my build im too lazy to take a pic) you can see how super-compact it is, and how insanely close the fans are to the GFX cards, this build is water cooled, but you could just imagine using a lower PCI-E slot with air cooling how much airflow hits the card. Currently I have a 1080ti EVGA Black edition (with the spiderweb style shroud) which allows me to maximize the potential here. I'm not too concerned with having a compact case, it was just nice. My main goal is to fit all the hardware I want, and not have GPU sag or a giant cooler hanging off my socket. Which again, I know, I could water cool. But still. Also I use most of my PCI slots for things, so I cant have a horizontal mount that obstructs where you mount the GFX card against the window and use a PCI-E extension cable. But maybe there is one that doesn't obstruct. Anyway, I'll probably end up using the case again for my next build even though it has frustrating limitations (like where the fuck to put a reservoir/pump, or having to rebuild half the PC to swap power supplies or doing any cable management at all whatsoever) Look forward to hearing your suggestions. Thanks!
  9. I never asked about GPU but by mentioning SLI It was implied I am going Nvidia. Although it dawned on me as soon as I posted this before the edit you may have been referring to the tile based rendering performance, which yes, is part driver bound. Anyway not entirely sure how that relates to my CPU choice, it's not like they make Nvidia chipsets anymore XD.
  10. I have a 3x NVME M.2 Setup with a single GPU, was thinking of going to SLI if they get this new tile based system going well. I tend to run triple 4k, play mostly sightseeing games at 60fps 4k. So that being the case, Can I still get by on a Ryzen 3, or do I need to go to Thread Ripper or X299? Currently I have a x99 setup. Is quad channel memory and more lanes required for my setup? Or will chipset lanes be enough. (I understand the memory and pice lanes are different things. Just going for brevity.) I also edit 4k video but not very long clips and not very often, so I'm not too worried about rendering speed these days. But I figured I would include that. Money isn't really an object but I don't like to spend money I don't have to. So I would like to get setup with a new board and CPU for around 1000, but am willing to go upto 3k if it removes a bottleneck somewhere. Even if it wont improve games, if im going to lose a bunch of bandwidth to the drives because of limited lanes or something I would rather just spend the money. I also have a ton of USB 3 devices. External storage and stuff. We also play 4 player local multiplayer on games that support it and emulators etc. From what I understand you use like 4 lanes for ports. 16 lanes for the GPU 4 lanes for each NVME drive. So it sounds like I need 32 lanes in order to avoid limitations. vOv But then again if I was sure about that, I wouldn't be asking.
  11. I have an old laptop I am putting a SSD into. However, the old laptop is not currently operational, so I thought "Hek I'll just toss it in my drive toaster and copy it to the new drive via my desktop." Should be easy enough. Whelp I was wrong. Since the SSD is smaller, and since EVERY FREE UTILITY ON EARTH only wants to migrate my MAIN OS DRIVE as the source and not let me choose a source I am at a startling lack of software to get the job done. To be clear. System: Boot OS: C: 500gb Blank Drive: D: 500gb Laptop Boot Drive: E: 1tb (only 89gb used) Want: I want to migrate E onto D. Problem 1: Every free migration tool wants to migrate C onto D. Problem 2: Every free clone tool wants D to be 1tb+ in size and wont smart-trim the empty space. Things I tried: Shrinking the free space out of the patrician on the laptop drive. 10 different software solutions. Praying to god. Praying to Satan. None of these things worked :( especially Satan, he sent me a bill too. Where am I supposed to get a soul at 8pm on a Sunday night? I guess I can wait till I have the memory to put in this thing so I can boot it up. (I do know it works I gave the memory away a while back). But I don't like to give up so easily. So if anyone has a solution I'm all ears.
  12. Thinkpad may be the best option off the top of my head... still open to suggestions!
  13. I need a laptop for a very specific use application. I need to do a lot of writing while traveling. So I need something with an extremely durable keyboard and a very long battery life. I am a novelist, but I spend a lot of time outdoors and traveling. The closer the keyboard is to a normal one, the better, I have large hands and do a lot of typing on a standard mechanical keyboard at home. Things that do NOT matter. Size Weight Brand Gaming Price Literally, money/size is no object, I already carry around a GT80 Titan, but the battery life isn't enough. But if I can save money by getting a normal laptop VS an ultralight, I want a normal laptop. The only things I care about are Typing experience and battery. IF I can save money going slightly thicker, fine. If I get a better typing or battery experience going bigger, Fine. it just needs to have the best of those 2 things. I don't plan on gaming on it, or video, or even web surfing. Just working on my novel outside and on the road. PS I got the GT80 Titan for reasons OTHER than writing. I just feel like I should mention that since I'm sure at least one person is going to say "well, of course, the GT80 Titan is awful for battery life, it's an SLI gaming desktop replacement." I know. That's why I bought it like 2 years ago when I had different needs. Now I need a PC for writing. Some Tiny things that do matter, but secondary. LED keyboard, because I type in the dark a lot. Numpad, if possible. Video out, and at least 2 USB ports. No smaller than 15" unless it's VERY cheap and still meets other requirements. I'll probably replace all drives with solid state drives if not already for battery/shock resistance if it has mechanical. 16gb ram or an empty slot to make it 16+ Not apple. Strong hinge. It will not live its life on a desk.
  14. nvidia control panel is a pain with interlaced, you can use it to make an interlaced resolution then you need to apply it through the display adapter properties, not through nvidia. it's annoying.
  15. I actually intend to pick up one of these 16:9 CRT tv's to add to my collection but from what I understand... They are capable of 1080i or 720i with a max progressive resolution of half of 1080 (aka 540p). Why idk, is it true? idk. I assume I'll find out. The delay isn't significant and does not from what I understand add any ghosting, but it's not the 0 latency experience of a truly VGA direct input display. I do know that fighting games clubs and enthusiasts say to avoid them. But then again, I'm not a fighting games enthusiast.
  16. Not everyone knows they are called CRT, so looking up "monitor" or "tube" can also yield results.
  17. since most of the time (at least here in 2019, hello potential future readers) you can get a CRT for free, its pretty low risk to give a try.
  18. Fast moving is what it does best :3 Its ultra-fine text and having a screen larger than a laptop display that it has trouble with Which is funny when they support such high resolutions, but convergence and flickering at 60hz hold it back in that regard. Just see the blur-busters comparison above. NOTE: some very cheap office space monitors have much worse ghosting because they use long persistent phosphors to make the text experience better. This is why you want to avoid monitors that have specs like "1280x1024 60hz" because a fast response phosphor will flicker at 60hz.
  19. They usually give better both. But depending on G2 settings, direct ambient light, and scaling options can underperform. Example, having the image scaled by the graphics card can and up adding more blanking space to the signal. This meant the image takes up less of the total available signal space but that dead space still gets traced, resulting in dropped brightness. The screen itself is (typically) more reflective (both on the surface and internally) so having a bright light on can drop perceived brightness as well. One interesting thing you will notice with a CRT is shrinking the image with the OSD will increase brightness, this is because in many ways a CRT is like a projector, your focusing the beam on a small area, this means more intense brightness in that area (see the inverse square law in lighting). Also the electron gun will get dimmer as its used (very very VERY slowly over years) which can require a G2 adjustment to increase voltage (i assume) to the gun. So in good condition, it will outperform in blacks, not as often on whites but possibly. Also, color-wise, LCD comes pretty close for green/blue BUT red/yellow/orange/pink are usually no contest win for CRT. Also due to convergence and the fine-ness of the color splitting on a CRT colors feel much more natural and things like bump/normal mapping just tend to look better (obviously subjective and hard to describe how this is possible) but once you see it, you'll know what I mean.
  20. Well first, if you're in the Pittsburgh area you can come try out the CRTs I have laying around. I would recommend Samsung NF900 or Viewsonic. A lot more sony's exist with alternate brands on them like Sun Microsystems or SGI. The main thing you want to look for is google the model number and look up (usually on cnet of all places) the resolution and HZ. Usually nothing under 17" is any good. If you're going to pay money 1600x1200 at > 60hz. Or at a minimum 1280x1024 85hz+ Also while it won't really improve the image any from a color or resolution or refresh rate a 'Flat Screen' CRT with a flat glass front may be an easier transition although early 'flat screen' monitors have more geometry issues than alternatives. (The image is stretched over the screen by a magnetic field, and is not automatically spread evenly like a LCD) Keep in mind when testing a CRT that they do take time to warm up. the geometry or color may be off when you first turn it on, and after a few minutes, it is fully on. Avoid TV's although there are a bunch of 16:9 'HD' CRT's (usually 720i over Component) these use digital encoders which do add latency compared to the VGA PC counterparts. IMO just go on craigslist, or facebook marketplace and find a free monitor someone is giving away. 99% of the time you can get a 21" for free after a week or two or at least for under 100 bucks. Some CRT's may have bad convergence (colors separate) or low brightness, neither of these are a dealbreaker if your willing to crack it open and make some adjustments and can score you some free "broken" crt's that just need a little TLC. But pick up any craptastic one for free to play with while you search for your dream CRT since it can take a little time.
  21. PS i have played overwatch on it, and that works fine great even! I dont have fortnite installed.
  22. They still sell a HDMI to VGA adapter at wallmart, so you can grab one fast, but you'll overpay for it vs online. There are some artifacting issues with basic ones at very high pixel clocks, a good one online (which I will link once I have one and can verify) costs around 70 bucks. Assuming it works as advertised. Again, review pending. As for new games on an old monitor... Some games like Fallout 4 will have scaling issues with either the background or UI similar to how ultrawide can require some mods or .ini adjustments. There's a 4:3 mod for Fallout that fix the problems with the UI. League of legends, for example, does a zoom crop thus putting a native 4"3 player at a disadvantage and finally since a lot of these monitors lack perfect convergence due to age and whatnot games with very fine text and UI details like Stellaris can also be a pain. That being said, you can run games like league in 16:9 letterboxed, and mods or edits exist for a lot of games like fallout. But with a decent quality CRT that isn't super high hours most games particularly colorful ones will be more vibrant, have better black levels, and unparalleled anti-ghosting. You can achieve better colors on the Samsung quantum dot monitors but they have a ton of other drawbacks. (I have the Samsung 4k 32" UH850) Drawbacks include, not great ghosting, no gsync, persistent film grain, 60hz. But it's perfect for everything a CRT is awful at, like Stellaris and Eve Online
  23. I love GN XD I just love how even on youtube, the Simpsons did it first XD
  24. Oops, and the funny part is I know this XD. I fixed it thanks!