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Stipz

Member
  • Content Count

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About Stipz

  • Title
    Newbie
  • Birthday 1989-09-09

Contact Methods

  • Discord
    Stipz#3989
  • Steam
    stipz_09
  • Battle.net
    Stipz#1855
  • Twitter
    stipzzz

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Philippines
  • Interests
    Gaming, PC, MMOARPG
  • Occupation
    Graphic Artist

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-9700K
  • Motherboard
    AsRock Phantom Gaming 9
  • RAM
    T-Force Nighthawk 8gb x 2 @ 3200Mhz
  • GPU
    GALAX GTX 1050Ti EXOC White
  • Case
    Cooler Master H500P Mesh White
  • Storage
    M.2: Adata XPG SX8200 Pro M.2 2280 256GB
    SSD: Gigabyte UDPro - 256GB
    HDD1 : 1Tb WDC Blue
    HDD2 : 4TB WDC Blue
  • PSU
    Corsair RM750x
  • Display(s)
    Dual PHILIPS 246E7QDSW 23.6"
  • Cooling
    Cryorig R1 Universal
  • Keyboard
    Redragon K550W
  • Mouse
    Roccat Nyth
  • Sound
    Logitech Z212
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 x64
  1. overbending this plastic washer somehow fixed it. It's no longer coming off to make that ticking noise again so far. I'll look into making a clip lock by bending paperclips if those could work.
  2. It's making a ticking sound similar to when a drive needle is acting up during a read cycle, one of the scariest things I don't like hearing from my PC. I thought at first it was either of my hard drives creating the noise because those are fairly new and not much data has gone through them. I was able to isolate the noise and surprised to find out that it was coming from my CPU Cooler which is a Cryorig R1 Universal the noise is coming from the thin fan, the XT 140, I unclipped it from the heatsink and checked the axle lock, that thin plastic washer that keeps the bearings in and prevent them from coming off has loosened. I flattened the plastic washer and put it back in and the noise is gone, a day later it's making a noise again and most likely the washer came off again. Not sure if taking a plastic washer from a different fan would solve the problem because I'm think it's likely to come off again since it's of the same material. I'm thinking of other ideas for a fix at the moment, maybe someone else had this problem too and I would like to know how others repaired theirs.
  3. oh wait! i got it I've put a dummy audio jack on the side speaker out (black) so it doesn't switch to it... so it's kinda fixed.
  4. Actually yeah... observed it some more, opened up the control panel and saw that it keeps switching between green and black even though it's connected to the green jack. i think it's a grounding issue? I have no idea how to fix this now.
  5. Confirmed only experiencing issues when it is connected to the rear panel. this is definitely a driver issue of some sorts. Works fine if connected on the front panel
  6. power source is okay, cable isn't broken too since tried it on my phone and it doesn't seem to "unplug" itself atleast. at first I really thought it's the updated, but I postponed build 1903 then again I could be wrong at this point since I'm having audio issues now. good idea on the VM, will do that thank you.
  7. I started having issues with my audio and I'm stumped to what's causing it and how to fix it, I can't stream with my audio like this. It appears/disappears every now and then with the notification "an audio device has been plugged/ unplugged in the audio jack" I reinstalled the usual drivers I'm using for my Phantom Gaming 9 motherboard and yet it still persist. Tried messing with Realtek Settings and there doesn't seem to be anything different. I don't want to reinstall my OS and I don't think I could rollback updates that were installed. Windows updated recently, but still I'm not to v1903 which as far as I know has caused some audio issues, Current build: buildver 1809 v17763.737
  8. Friend asked me for help to revive his laptop, his hdd died months ago and replaced it with a blank one. got him a bootable Windows 10 USB Flash drive to do the reformat created a GPT partition with 180GB. upon installing the said OS it should restart automaticall to begin the actual installation, but that's not the case for this laptop, it gets stuck here. see: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZyDnHFx8np96kaXk6 I pressed ctrl+alt+del to force a restart. went into the bios via F2 and saw only the HDD and DVD drive but I did saw Windows Boot Manager in the boot override list which as far as I know shouldn't be there. I restarted it again with the hdd still on 1st boot. still nothing it gets stuck with the blinking cursor I took out the only hdd and powered it back up and Windows Boot Manager is still in the list of the override I think it's one of the cause of the problem. not quite sure how to troubleshoot this since it's my first time encountering such issue.
  9. great to know it suppors aux drives now, thanks i plan on getting the 32gb, i would have to look into the 800p that you've mentioned, thank you
  10. I'm planning to add a 4TB hdd soon and use Intel Optane to speed that up, is that possible if I currently have an M.2 NvME drive installed as my OS/Boot drive? I'm currently using an AsRock Phantom Gaming 9 motherboard which could support 3x M.2 devices. What I know as of now is that Intel Optane can only accelerate your boot drive, I'm asking if it is possible to have Intel Optane accelerate a different drive.
  11. Did a BIOS update, I saw Nuvoton NCT6791D for the firs time in the SpeedFan readings. I don't think this is the accurate temp for the CPU I didn't think that having all cores having the same temps at 51~53ºC was fishy. I guess it wasn't broken afterall. the fan tastic tuning directly reads the core temps that's why it doesn't change fan speed when adjusting the curve.
  12. yes, plugged it on CPU_FAN1 and CPU_FAN2 headers
  13. Doesn't have any slack or any wiggle when mounted as far as I know, it's similar to how I've mounted it on my previous board. At first I thought it was a thermal paste issue, tried with less amount of half a rice grain and 1 and a half rice-grain, only had a 1-2C d difference but still idled at around 50C. I set the curve to go 80% at 50C I tried it on full performance too, doesn't seem to speed up the fans.
  14. I'm using a Z390 Phantom Gaming 9 with a Core i3-8100 cooled with Cryorig R1 Universal. I'm pretty sure I'm using a decent cooler and it's properly seated with the right amount of thermal paste since it wasn't this hot when I was using an MSi H310M GAMING Plus board before I swapped. On the H310m my CPU idles at 22~28°C and on load peaks at 35~45°C as for the Z390 G9, it's hotter than the usual, based on UEFI's sensor it's at 51~53°C, even HWMonitor and SpeedFan is reporting temps at 47~53°C. I checked AsRock's UEFI Fan tastic tuning and it doesn't seem to do anything for the fan speed whether I set it on Silent, Performance or Full Speed, they just stay at around 950~1100 RPM. I tried updating the board's BIOS to v1.60, the only difference I've noticed was the Debug LED and power and reset buttons are no longer lit after booting into Windows. I found a thread on AsRock's forum but I have no idea what tctrl means and it seems for X470. I've yet to try their A-Tuning utility as a last resort, but hopefully I could get the UEFI tuning utility working w/ any additional application.
  15. I see! so it can work and yes, definitely not cheaping out on the PSU at the very least, I'm planning to upgrade to 850w, but it'll still be a Seasonic M12-II Evo brand. Considering that now, Thanks
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