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Stipz

Member
  • Content Count

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About Stipz

  • Title
    Newbie
  • Birthday Sep 09, 1989

Contact Methods

  • Discord
    Stipz#3989
  • Steam
    stipz_09
  • Battle.net
    Stipz#1855
  • Twitter
    stipzzz

Profile Information

  • Location
    Philippines
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Gaming, PC, MMOARPG
  • Occupation
    Graphic Artist

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-9700K
  • Motherboard
    AsRock Phantom Gaming 9
  • RAM
    T-Force Nighthawk 8gb x 2 @ 3200Mhz
  • GPU
    GALAX GTX 1050Ti EXOC White
  • Case
    Cooler Master H500P Mesh White
  • Storage
    M.2: Adata XPG SX8200 Pro M.2 2280 256GB
    SSD: Gigabyte UDPro - 256GB
    HDD1 : 1Tb WDC Blue
    HDD2 : 4TB WDC Blue
  • PSU
    Corsair RM750x
  • Display(s)
    Dual PHILIPS 246E7QDSW 23.6"
  • Cooling
    Cryorig R1 Universal
  • Keyboard
    Redragon K550W
  • Mouse
    Roccat Nyth
  • Sound
    Logitech Z212
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 x64

Recent Profile Visitors

414 profile views
  1. My OS updated last night and found some of my sound settings have changed, one thing I've immediately noticed is that when I'm adjusting my sound volume via my keyboard roller the UI no longer appears. Version 1909 Build 18363.836 anyone else has experienced this error and managed to solve it?
  2. overbending this plastic washer somehow fixed it. It's no longer coming off to make that ticking noise again so far. I'll look into making a clip lock by bending paperclips if those could work.
  3. It's making a ticking sound similar to when a drive needle is acting up during a read cycle, one of the scariest things I don't like hearing from my PC. I thought at first it was either of my hard drives creating the noise because those are fairly new and not much data has gone through them. I was able to isolate the noise and surprised to find out that it was coming from my CPU Cooler which is a Cryorig R1 Universal the noise is coming from the thin fan, the XT 140, I unclipped it from the heatsink and checked the axle lock, that thin plastic
  4. oh wait! i got it I've put a dummy audio jack on the side speaker out (black) so it doesn't switch to it... so it's kinda fixed.
  5. Actually yeah... observed it some more, opened up the control panel and saw that it keeps switching between green and black even though it's connected to the green jack. i think it's a grounding issue? I have no idea how to fix this now.
  6. Confirmed only experiencing issues when it is connected to the rear panel. this is definitely a driver issue of some sorts. Works fine if connected on the front panel
  7. power source is okay, cable isn't broken too since tried it on my phone and it doesn't seem to "unplug" itself atleast. at first I really thought it's the updated, but I postponed build 1903 then again I could be wrong at this point since I'm having audio issues now. good idea on the VM, will do that thank you.
  8. I started having issues with my audio and I'm stumped to what's causing it and how to fix it, I can't stream with my audio like this. It appears/disappears every now and then with the notification "an audio device has been plugged/ unplugged in the audio jack" I reinstalled the usual drivers I'm using for my Phantom Gaming 9 motherboard and yet it still persist. Tried messing with Realtek Settings and there doesn't seem to be anything different. I don't want to reinstall my OS and I don't think I could rollback updates that were installed. Windows
  9. Friend asked me for help to revive his laptop, his hdd died months ago and replaced it with a blank one. got him a bootable Windows 10 USB Flash drive to do the reformat created a GPT partition with 180GB. upon installing the said OS it should restart automaticall to begin the actual installation, but that's not the case for this laptop, it gets stuck here. see: https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZyDnHFx8np96kaXk6 I pressed ctrl+alt+del to force a restart. went into the bios via F2 and saw only the HDD and DVD drive but I did saw Windows Boot Manager in the
  10. great to know it suppors aux drives now, thanks i plan on getting the 32gb, i would have to look into the 800p that you've mentioned, thank you
  11. I'm planning to add a 4TB hdd soon and use Intel Optane to speed that up, is that possible if I currently have an M.2 NvME drive installed as my OS/Boot drive? I'm currently using an AsRock Phantom Gaming 9 motherboard which could support 3x M.2 devices. What I know as of now is that Intel Optane can only accelerate your boot drive, I'm asking if it is possible to have Intel Optane accelerate a different drive.
  12. Did a BIOS update, I saw Nuvoton NCT6791D for the firs time in the SpeedFan readings. I don't think this is the accurate temp for the CPU I didn't think that having all cores having the same temps at 51~53ºC was fishy. I guess it wasn't broken afterall. the fan tastic tuning directly reads the core temps that's why it doesn't change fan speed when adjusting the curve.
  13. yes, plugged it on CPU_FAN1 and CPU_FAN2 headers
  14. Doesn't have any slack or any wiggle when mounted as far as I know, it's similar to how I've mounted it on my previous board. At first I thought it was a thermal paste issue, tried with less amount of half a rice grain and 1 and a half rice-grain, only had a 1-2C d difference but still idled at around 50C. I set the curve to go 80% at 50C I tried it on full performance too, doesn't seem to speed up the fans.
  15. I'm using a Z390 Phantom Gaming 9 with a Core i3-8100 cooled with Cryorig R1 Universal. I'm pretty sure I'm using a decent cooler and it's properly seated with the right amount of thermal paste since it wasn't this hot when I was using an MSi H310M GAMING Plus board before I swapped. On the H310m my CPU idles at 22~28°C and on load peaks at 35~45°C as for the Z390 G9, it's hotter than the usual, based on UEFI's sensor it's at 51~53°C, even HWMonitor and SpeedFan is reporting temps at 47~53°C. I checked AsRock's UEFI Fan tastic tuning and it doesn't seem to do
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