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Ryan Bellune

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About Ryan Bellune

  • Birthday Jun 29, 1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Athens, GA
  • Occupation
    Geek Squad repair agent

System

  • CPU
    i7-4790k
  • Motherboard
    Asus SABERTOOTH Z97 Mk. 1
  • RAM
    16GB Corsair Vengeance 1866 9-10-9-27
  • GPU
    Sapphire r9 290x 4GB Vapor-x
  • Case
    Corsair 550D
  • Storage
    240GB Corsair Neutron GTX, 2x WD Black 1.0TB drives in RAID 0
  • PSU
    Corsair TX750W
  • Display(s)
    Asus VG248-QE
  • Cooling
    Corsair h100
  • Keyboard
    Corsair k70 RGB
  • Mouse
    Corsair m65 (fps) Logitech g600 (mmo)
  • Sound
    Corsair SP 2500
  • Operating System
    Windows 8.1
  1. Jesus christ..... Oh well. Thanks for the quick reply
  2. Hey guys. I've got a problem with my h100i. I can't control fan speed whatsoever through corsair link. After seeing a build log Linus made where he attached all system fans to an h100i and controlled them through software with corsair link, I set out to do the same to my build. Here's where I stand now: h100i is plugged in correctly and is receiving power Fans have been plugged in correctly and are receiving power Pump coolant is circulating and cooling the processor correctly h100i is being detected in corsair link and by windows h100i firmware is up do date, according to link Link detects all 4 fans and accurately displays RPM information All fans that I'm using are from corsair (SP120 Quiet on the rad, AF140 Quiet in the case) and all fans are using 3-pin connectors. The fans were able to be controlled previously by my onboard motherboard connectors (Asus SABERTOOTH z-97 Mk. 1) with little to no issue. Any ideas? I've tried everything that I know how to do with conventional troubleshooting, and I'm ready just to blame it on the software and call it a day -Ryan
  3. You were exactly right. I re-installed both MSI afterburner as well as omega drivers, changed the settings as you described and now I can finally overclock this thing like I intended. Hats off sirrah.
  4. If you've never altered any of those settings, I would start at #5 and work backwards.
  5. Gonna need a lot more information than that. What type of headset was he using, USB or 3.5mm? When was the last time it was working? Some things to try: Change the recording device: this can be done following the steps here. Make sure the headset's cables aren't frayed or damaged. I know my cats have stealth-ruined plenty of headsets of mine. Make sure teamspeak's settings are correct and make sure it's detecting the microphone
  6. Ouch. Yeah, that might be an issue. I'm afraid I'm not versed enough in local telecoms to be of much use. Best of luck to you!
  7. I agree with you that it doesn't seem like a router issue. What I need to know is what ISP you use and how you're connecting to them. there's a lot we techs need to know to diagnose a network problem
  8. Let's try something: We need to find out a bit more in regards to actual hardware performance. I need you to run some sort of video benchmark, with one card in and with the cards in SLI. After we get those numbers, we can determine if it's a bad driver, bad hardware, or if it's just BF4 being bad.
  9. To me it sounds like the computer has a couple of bugaboos during the build process. Can you take a photo of the computer's mobo with the side panel off, and a picture of the rear I/O with the cables plugged in?
  10. No, you come over HERE! http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/275275-r9-290x-strange-throttling-issue-powerplay-issue/ Here's my thread regarding another sapphire card that won't overclock correctly. I'm still looking for a solution
  11. I'm referring to core voltage, although turning the power limit up can help stabilize your overclocks. Power limit basically just let's the card take more voltage if it needs it. Adjusting the base voltage is what you need to actually raise your card's maximum clock speeds. Be careful if you're overclocking on a card with a mediocre cooler though. Keep a careful eye on your temperatures, and if it hits 90° or up, stop the test and lower voltages.
  12. Hmm. Well if not ULPS specifically, this sounds like some sort of power saving issue. Heat generally makes computer components run worse, so the heat may not be a factor as much as the power draw is. Here are some things to look at: Motherboard load-line calibration: if this is set to something non-standard, change it back to standard/auto. If this is set to auto, change it to medium/level 6 (not sure which setting your motherboard has, change it to something in the middle ground) Adaptive voltage: Intel processors have adaptive voltage capabilities, which lower voltage when the processor doesn't need it. I would manually change the voltage to stock, as well as change the CPU multiplier back to stock if you've done some overclocking. PCI-E power savings: I'm also not sure if your motherboard has this, but it's worth a quick check. Make sure this is off, or set to "auto" XMP profiles: Kind of a long shot, but disabling XMP may prevent sudden system shutdowns from failing RAM modules. Windows power-savings: Make sure your computer's power plan is set to "high performance". not likely the cause, but worth a shot. In addition to the power savings-side of things, I would test your power supply for any problems. If you don't have a tester handy, most computer stores do. It's worth making sure it's working anyway. Let me know if any of this helps!
  13. I see. In that case, you will probably need to add more voltage. for that card, most people can expect to see maybe 1150-1200 on the core with good temps, depending on the model
  14. Find your hard drive, check the box next to it, and click on "Basic Tests". After that, select "short generic" and let it finish. If it fails, or if the program closes out entirely, this could be a sign that your HDD has failed
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