DDO

Nobody knows? I think I’ll just try it then

All coins per definition already reached their circulating supply. This is the numberof coins that is currently in circulation. I think you mean what happens when it reaches it’s maximum supply. When the maximum supply of a coin or token is reached it simply means that is the maximum number of coins that will ever exist and no new coins will ever be created.

Hi everyone, I'm picking some of the parts for a new PC and I'm not 100% sure if what I'm planning to do will work because partpicker is giving me a warning I don't understand. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tg9sdD The warning that is given is: "Corsair 5000D ATX Mid Tower Case has a front panel USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type A port, but the Asus ProArt B550-CREATOR ATX AM4 Motherboard does not have sufficient USB 3.2 Gen 1 headers. The case USB 3.2 Gen 1 Type A port will not be usable." Corsair 5000D tech specs: "Case Front IO (1x) USB 3.1 Type C, (2x) USB 3.0, (1x) Audio in/out" Asus B550-Creator tech specs: " Front USB:Total 7 ports: 1 x USB 3.2 Gen 1 connector (support(s) USB Type-C®) 1 x USB 3.2 Gen 1 header(s) support(s) additional 2 USB 3.2 Gen 1 ports 2 x USB 2.0 header(s) support(s) additional 4 USB 2.0 ports The Corsair case has 1 type C usb 3.1 and 2 type A usb 3.0 ports and the B550 mobo has support for 1 type C usb 3.2 and 2 type A usb 3.2 ports. Why is partpicker saying that the case USB type A port will not be usable? Am I missing something? Your help would be greatly appreciated!

Ok, thanks, I'll give it a try. If the tape isn't supposed to be in there they (MSI) sure dropped the ball on this one.... This was the first time I opened it up and untill yesterday the factory seal was still on there so nobody else could have gone in to add the sticker...

Hi CWALD, Thanks for your reply! If I would remove the white substance and replace it with thermal pads, how would I find out what thickness thermal pad I should use?

Sutor, ne ultra crepidam.

How did you know?

Hi everyone, The CPU temperatures on my MSI laptop were a bit high so I figured maybe I could improve the temps a bit by changing the thermal paste. I openened up the laptop and I was about the clean the old paste off the CPU and GPU when I noticed something weird. There is yellow tape between the thermal pads and the vrms (or mosfets,chokes or whatever they're called) and thermal pads are applied only to the top row. For the bottom row of vrms (R15), in stead of thermal pads, they put a thin layer of a white paste-like substance on the heatsink. Except for the one on the far left, it doesn't look like any of the vrms is actually touching the white paste. (see pictures) Does anyone know what this white substance is and if it's supposed to be hovering above the vrms without touching it? I have some spare 0.5mm gelid extreme thermal pads laying around here which I could put on the bottom row of R15's in stead of the white paste. Should I wipe off the white paste and put the thermal pads on, or leave it as is? Any advice would be very much appreciated! Dave

@OPSJono@Cajs@VerticalDiscussions You were right about the RMA service from Corsair. I Sent them my broken PSU ( just the PSU, no cables or anything) on friday the 19th. I forgot to request the express RMA service so I didn't expect them to send me a replacement within a week or 2. However, 3 business days later (today) a package from Corsair was delivered to my house. In it was a brand new AX860i sealed in retail box (including cables etc.)! Probably one of the, if not the best, RMA service out there. I don't have time to try it in the PC today, so I'm going to try it tomorrow. I'll let you know if it works.

@OPSJono I'll let you know when I have the replacement PSU, if they approve the RMA request that is (I can't think of a reason why they wouldn't, but you never know). Atm I'm still waiting for their response, they said they'd respond within 2 business days, so I guess I'll get an e-mail tomorrow.

@OPSJono Thanks for sharing your experience! I hope mine was just a faulty PSU from the factory too, I'm in the process of getting an RMA from corsair at the moment. It's comforting to know your new PSU is working without any problems now, lets hope it will be the same in my case. But I guess we'll know once I connect the new one. @Pesukarhu Okay, I hope this was the case. If so, my old memory might be just fine, and I can reuse it in some other build, that would be great! @Cajs The store advised me to contact corsair directly with my warranty issue. I know exactly where to start (your link). Thanks everyone, I'm going to send my broken PSU to corsair first thing in the morning. I'll let you know when the new PSU has been delivered, and whether thesystem is working again or not.

Thanks for the quick replies everyone! @Cajs and @Verticaldiscussions Where I live the store where you bought the product is the first one responsible if you have any warranty issues so I contacted the store first. Reading all the good experiences with corsairs RMA service it was probably better to contact them straight away. Now I have to wait for the store to react first, it wouldn't be nice if I don't wait for their response, because then they did all the work for nothing. Thanks for the tip, It's good to know there's a good RMA service to contact if the store doesn't come up with a good sollution! @godlygamer23 You're right and I'm really curious as to what's happened inside the PSU, sounded pretty much like a capacitor exploded somewhere inside. However, in order to open up the PSU I will have to break the warranty seal, which isn't the best idea i guess. Considering the fact that I might be capable of spotting the defect inside the PSU, but I'm in no way able to repair it myself. @Pesukarhu That rules out the mobo or ram causing the PSU to fail, am I right? Is it still a possibility that the PSU was bad from the beginning and that it caused the ram and/or motherboard to act funny?

hi everyone, Last night I was doing some 3d work in google sketchup, and all of the sudden my pc shut down, the house went dark and there was a loud popping sound coming from behind the pc (like a popping balloon). After some testing I discovered it was the PSU (Corsair Ax-860i) that was causing my fuse to blow out. I know this because when I unplugged all the cables that go from the PSU to the other components, plugged the PSU in the power outlet in the wall, and turned it on, the fuse blew again. I always have my PSU power cable plugged directly into a grounded power outlet in the wall. Does anyone have an explanation for what could have been the problem and how to go on when I get a new PSU? Moreover, I haven't overclocked the system since 3 months ago, it's been running at stock cpu clock speeds and 2100 mhz on the ram. When I first bought the rig I had my 5820k running stable on 4700 with 1.31V Vcore and Maximum load temps of 72-76 Celcius per core. For my 24/7 overclock I turned it down to 4600 with 1.29Vcore and sub70 temps. It never gave a BSOD, and never got above 70 Celcius. The only problem was the ram memory, which is G.skill ddr4 rated at 2800mhz C16. I couldn't get it to run stable on 2800mhz, not even with CPU on stock speeds. But I didn't have time to spend more time overclocking because I had to work on the PC, so I settled with 2666 on the ram, which seemed to be stable at the time. Although it passed memtest 24H without errors I still had some weird things going on with the PC in the following months, Icons not loading, memory sticks not beeing detected, etc. So I turned the ram back to stock speeds, and the problems were gone for a little while. When the problems started to return, I set my CPU back to stock speeds too, because I didn't really have time to diagnose. Turning down the CPU overclock didn't help. So last week I decided to replace my RAM kit with a slightly bigger one: 32GB G.skill 3000C15, which is beeing shipped at this moment. And now the PSU breaks down. Is this a coincidence, or are these 2 events connected in some way? E.g. was it the PSU that was making the RAM act weird all the time, or was it maybe the RAM that caused the PSU to short? Is that even possible? Or is it maybe the Mobo that is behind all of this? So my second question is: Does anyone happen to know what could have been the cause of the PSU short out? And how do I go on diagnosing what caused all this? I'm sorry for the long post, I don't think it's possible to come up with a sollution if I don't give you any background info. I hope someone can help me out with this. Thank you in advance for the effort! Best regards, Dave PS I'lll be out of town tomorrow, so I can't reply that whole day, so if my reply comes a little late, it's not because I'm not interested or I don't care.

Have you tried ebay yet? Thats always the first website I go to when something I want isn't sold in my country. The downside is that shipping takes a little longer than normal. Also for me the prices are a little lower compared to where I live, but the shipping costs more, so most of the time the total prices are the same for me. This might not be the same for you, that depends on the value of your local currency. The one I have does fit fine on the fan, but I think it looks better if you take one that is a little more stretched out so it also covers the top mesh holes. glad I could help!

I'm currently still using the setup in the second picture. (Front/rear/bottom intake and top pulling air trough the rad as exhaust). This is what I got on the front: Spent around $5 for it (which is nothing compared to the rest of the parts of course). I was actually surprised of the temps in my case. I can run my 5820k on 4700mhz with the temps staying pretty low in my opinion. Have to add that this screenshot was taken in the winter and with a brand new, dust free system. I have a pretty dusty house too, but 90% of the dust I find when I clean it is in the dust filters. The inside of the case stays pretty clean, which is a good thing of course. Something I experienced with the case is that all the dust filter are easy to clean except the on in the front of the case. There is no easy way to get the filter out to clean it like in the top/bottom of the case. also the alluminium plate in the front makes it harder to clean the dust that gets stuck in the mesh around it. For me it's not a problem at all, but you might want to take that into consideration when deciding whether you want to fit the radiator in the front of the case or not.