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atavax

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Posts posted by atavax


  1. I bought the new g14 laptop and i'm thinking one of the ways to get more use out of it is to use it as a secondary pc to stream myself playing games on my desktop. I'm thinking something like described here: https://www.obs.live/articles/2019/5/1/how-to-stream-with-two-pcs-using-obs-studio-and-the-ndi-plugin

     

    Should it make a difference whether it's usb a or usb c to ethernet? will one yield better bandwith? Are there any classifications I should be looking for to determine a higher quality adapter?


  2. 1 hour ago, Mateyyy said:

    You can connect it to your Windows PC and throw MP3s on it through iTunes. You just sync your device first with your PC, and afterwards it's fairly straightforward, but I've had times where I needed to resync my iPhone, therefore deleting the music that was on it which wasn't particularly pleasant but that happened on a new Windows install, and quite a while ago iirc.

    So I have to download iTunes onto my PC and get MP3s through iTunes to share MP3s from my PC to an iPhone?


  3. I'm thinking about getting the new Iphone SE, but this would be my first apple device since I got an ipod shuffle like 15 years ago and I just don't know how much freedom do you have with iphones. Can I connect it to my windows PC and upload mp3's onto it? How is the Navigation system? What are things a Windows/Android guy should know about the switch to an Iphone?


  4. I really like the materials of the g14 and how the aestetic isn't very gamer, and the size seems like the best balance between portability and performance. But In this day and age, I feel like I need a laptop with a camera. I know laptops are just beginning to come out with ryzen 4000 series CPUs, but are there any of laptop versions basically fighting for the same segment as the g14 but actually, you know, has a camera? If it is supposed to come out soon, but hasn't that would be fine.


  5. 8 minutes ago, Doobeedoo said:

    Well, as far as fastest, there are newer TNs and also 240Hz IPS ones for a better color. 
    You can get 4K run desktop and single player games or other online non shooter games, but in shooters just lower it, easy. Also which monitor you have? There are 1440p 144Hz IPS that are actually faster than equal TN ones, like both models from Asus for example. If you'd want the best you'd get a 240Hz anyway. QLED is still not as great as OLED too. 

    OLED still has burn in issues which is especially problematic if you use it with PC gaming. Maybe if you upgrade your display every other year it wouldn't be an issue, but if you want to upgrade after improvements in technology justify it instead of because of the short life expectancy of the product you bought, you still need to get an LCD display. I think a large 4k monitor playing at 1080p presents a worse gaming experience than a 1080p gaming monitor at whatever size you consider ideal for a 1080p gaming monitor and a small 4k monitor trying to be ok for playing shooters with is going to present a worse gaming experience for something like cyberpunk 2077 than a relatively low input lag TV.

    My monitor is the BenQ XL2720Z


  6. 23 minutes ago, Doobeedoo said:

    There are some rather fast new monitors though, as far as input lag, response time and low ghosting. It's all LCD tech and LCD is slow among other things so.

    Another thing, why does everyone think they need to run online fps games at native resolution? You can lower it no? You can get a 4K screen and play like 1080p easy. If you want balanced spec like monitor for a good budget then 1440p 144Hz IPS is a nice option. You can get those fairly cheap too.

    I haven't seen any decent color monitors as fast or faster than old TN panels in terms of input lag. As for native resolution. Either you buy a display with the size to appreciate 4k, in which case, running it at 1080p looks horrible, or you buy a display that is small enough to make 1080p look good but then even if it is capable of 4k, you can't notice the detail of 4k. It also doesn't help things that the type of game you want to play at 1080p 144hz is the type of game you're typically very close to your display for and want higher pixel density for, and the type of game you don't really care about refresh rate of input lag for and want 4k to enjoy the graphics, is the type of game you're typically farther away from your display for.The problem with a 1440p 144hz IPS display is still worse for gaming than an old 1080p 144hz TN and is a giant step backwards in image quality from something like a QLED 4k TV you can get at the same price.


  7. I have a 6 year old 27" 144hz 1080p TN panel. Logically with all these displays with higher resolutions and refresh rates and better colors, I was looking into getting a new monitor. Then looking at sites that measure input lag, I realize, they all have worse input lag than my current monitor. Further, I look at the prices, and all the good ones cost like well into 4 figures. Then there is the fact that driving these higher res displays at high rates for online FPS is going to be incredibly expensive and often times impossible.

     

    So the prospect is to spend maybe like $2k on a monitor that is worse than my 6 year old monitor in competitive gaming, doesn't create as good picture as a sub $1k TV and is going to be a bitch to play games on at the native resolution and a fps that takes advantage of the high refresh rate of the monitor. Probably causing my to spend twice as much on videocards to drive it. Or, you know, you could spend half as much on a TV with great color and decent input lag, use it for every game you don't need a high refresh rate and great input lag, and use your old TN panel for games you want that high refresh rate and low input lag for. And need to upgrade my videocard half as often because I'm not trying to drive a 4k monitor 120+hz monitor at native resolution and 120+fps

     

    I get some people wanting the newest and greatest thing or some people not having the space for two displays, but it seems like the vast majority of gamers would be far better off having a dedicated competitive display and a separate high resolution, good color display.


  8. Most of the time that i launch windows, the first time it will freeze, but the 2nd time without fail it will work. Also, if I leave it on the login screen and don't log in immediately, it will still freeze. I suspect that it may have to do with mozilla. That after a proper shut down, mozilla saves all my tabs and the next time i launch the computer, it immediately opens all the tabs and that causes the computer to crash. But after that crash, the 2nd time around, mozilla doesn't open all my tabs immediately and waits for me to prompt it to try to recover my previous tabs. Another weird thing that I have noticed, that I'm not sure if it is anything or not, is that the first time i windows launches, the password box isn't open; I first have to press a key to open the box, then type the password, but on my 2nd attempt, the box is usually open immediately and I can just type the password. I'm not sure why this is and if it could have anything to do with the freezing. ALso, the amount of tabs I have open that could be causing the crashes is probably 15-25.

     

    edit to include specs:

    8700k

    5700xt

    32gb of ram

    256gb m.2

    1tb m.2

    2 tb sata ssd

    8tb hdd

    750w corsair psu


  9. I really love my switch pro controller and want to use it in a lot of games on PC, but the connection between it and my PC constantly drops. I'll have it plugged in and literally 12 inches from my case, and somehow steam says the device was disconnected and the blue glowing circle will be off. This happens with multiple games on steam, and I'll get the message on steam even when I'm not playing any games and the controller is just sitting on my desk. Any ideas on how I can fix this?


  10. I bought an arctic accellero extreme III. Install it on my 1080ti. First problem is the card is too thick for my case. The psu shroud in my h200 is too high. So I remove the fans from the cooler. I have a sfx psu, and the shroud is ventilated and i have 2 120mm noctua fans blowing air from the front. Not ideal, but it should be ok. At least temporarily. I also decide to keep the side off for improved airflow. I boot into windows, and window is like downsized into about 1/4 my 1080p monitor. Also, booting into msi afterburner doesn't show my gpu and cam doesn't either. And maybe 10 mins in, my screen goes blank. My gut says this is far too fast to have overheating from having no fans. And it has to be a fuckup with installing the new cooler. Could this be solely from no fans?


  11. so, the product description says 610mm for the 24pin. any idea what the standard 24pin cable length is with the sf 750? I'm using the psu right now, just have it like laying in the bottom of the case instead of bolted in because the cables are too short right now. And rather not take things apart to find out.


  12. Just now, Spotty said:

    What case do you have? 

      

    If the other cables from your sf750 are correct length and you only need the motherboard and CPU cables, then you can buy them individually and it should be cheaper than the full kit.

     

    https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-|-Parts/PC-Components/Power-Supplies/Type-4-Sleeved-black-24pin-ATX-Cable%2C-compatible-with-all-CORSAIR-type-4-pin-out-PSU/p/CP-8920140

     

    https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-|-Parts/PC-Components/Power-Supplies/Type-4-Sleeved-black-8-pin-(4%2B4)-ATX12V-EPS12V-Cable%2C-compatible-with-all-CORSAIR-type-4-pin-out-PSU/p/CP-8920141

     

    Incorrect. The type 3 and type 4 motherboard 24pin connectors are different. For the SF750 they'll need the type 4.

    sorry i haven't replied, i've been busy stress testing my CPU I have the NZXT H200. So mini itx, but very large mini itx. And yeah, i know i can use a larger PSU, but i wanted to get this one in case i want to move to a smaller case eventually.


  13. bought a sf 750 psu, the atx and cpu cables are too short and I was wondering if there are extensions or if i need to buy new cables. Also corsair has this starter kit of individually wrapped cables. They're type 4, my PSU should be compatible with type 4 according to corsairs' website. Is there a way for me to make sure these are longer than the ones I got? It doesn't say mini itx on the product page, so I imagine they are longer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L5YG1GN/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

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