FineVisionz

The budget is ~$1400 (must include a keyboard for this price)

I need a good workstation, Microsoft Office products, internet browsing, etc.  Honestly nothing crazy performance demanding.

A touch screen for note-taking with a stylus would be nice.

I'm open to Apple/Windows/Microsoft/Samsung/etc products.

Thanks in advance!

I currently have a Netgear N450 CG3000Dv2 and have had it for a long time (10ish years if I were to guess).  And recently, my WiFi has been unusable.  Took a speed test on my phone, S22 Ultra,  Ping 150ms, and Download 4Mbps.  While on the other hand, on my PC (LAN) connection, Ping 8ms, Download 250Mbps.  My WiFi a week ago was usable and I didn't have any issues but starting a few days ago it has just been unbearable to use.

Is there something I can try to fix it other than unplugging it for 10min or holding the reset button?  Is my Modem/Router just on its way out?

Budget for a new Modem/Router: ~$200 

Speeds: 300Mbps Cox (I see some routers support different speeds for different internet providers?)

Range: 3500 sq/ft (But I do know there are wifi extender/boost (if those are even worth it or snake oil, I've never looked into them before so I have no idea)

On 7/11/2023 at 11:47 AM, saintlouisbagels said:

There's not much reason to reply to old/dead threads - especially when the OP hasn't even signed in since June 1.

Although it'd be cool if they updated us with what they ended up purchasing.

Updated the post just for you

Looking for some front L and R speakers for under $300

Wall mountable

I don't have an amp yet since I figured I'd pick one out once I figured out what kind of power I need for the speakers.

Thanks

EDIT: 

I decided to go with the Jamo S 803 5.0 Home Cinema Speaker System. I got them on sale on Amazon for $169.  I then paired them with a Cerwin Vega CVT-200S 12in powered subwoofer all powered by a Yamaha RX-V6A I found locally on Facebook Marketplace for $200.  For a bedroom setup, I am very pleased!

43 minutes ago, mariushm said:

The bass shakers you linked to are for cars, and the amplifier came with 12v power supplies, so I assumed you want to add bass to your car and you wanted an amplifier compatible with 12v input voltage ... The bass shakers rely on the actual car frame and everything to produce that bass. So you need to at very least install them in some wood boxes or something if you want bass ... I'd say a box at least around 30-50 liters (or sort of like a mini tower pc case)

Anyway, i gave you plenty of links to power supplies, all should work much better than no-name amazon products.

Interesting, I was under the impression that these bass shakers are made for home theaters, to be installed on the under side of couches/seats with the purpose of vibrating to give you a more emersive effect, not necessarily add any sound.

"The Aurasound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker literally sends sonic vibrations through the material to which it is attached, enabling you to feel the earth-shaking bass from your music, movies, or video game soundtracks."

Appreciate you're time and help, I'll order one of the wall plugs you have linked.

Thanks 

4 minutes ago, mariushm said:

 

I linked to products that accept 12v DC (a range that includes 12v, because your car could have as low as 10v and as high as 14v while the alternator works) and produces a higher voltage.

 

The stuff you linked to outputs 21v at 1A , so 21 watts... but it needs 110v AC or higher to work.  It won't work in a car unless you use an inverter to produce 110-230v AC.

 

Maybe some slight confusion? I'm not using this in a car, but for my office/gaming setup at home

5 hours ago, mariushm said:

If you read the description of the subwoofer amplifier, you can see that it uses the same TPA3116 chip as the other small amplifier, so the same limitations applied to that one.

It's just a TPA3116 in BTL mode (to get one mono channel and higher output watts from a 2 channel amplifier chip) so it also needed higher than 12v voltage to output that amount of power. You can see in pictures that it even prints 12-24v by the barrel jack (though not sure how recommended 24v is, maybe 20-22v would be safer)

 

You can use step-up (boost) converters to boost your 12v to 20-24v, that's what most proper car amplifiers have inside.

For example, here's a 8-16v -> 16v..34v 65w power supply : https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/abb-power-conversion/ABXS002A3X41-SRZ/6010249

It does need a resistor to set the output voltage and some capacitors (the values are listed in datasheet, ex 20v  12.798kOhm, 22v 11.567kOhm 24 10.553kOhm so you could use a 12k resistor to get around 20.5v or 11k for 23v) but that means you need a soldering iron and skills to configure the power supply before using it.

 

Another example, 28$ for 50w power supply: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mornsun-america-llc/URB2424LD-50WR3/16348467

Easier to connect wires to it.

 

If you want something that needs no external part or soldering, you can also find ready made power supplies but usually they're bigger and more expensive.

For example this one costs 42$ and does 9.5v..18v input, 24v out (adjustable 23v..30v)  : https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/SD-100A-24/7706478

Needs at least 10v to do 100w, below that it's only guaranteed to do 80w or more.

 

or you maybe get a proper car amplifier

would this not work? https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Cordless-Perfect-Battery-Charger/dp/B07915GBF5/ref=sr_1_9?crid=36O8SVDFZ4KXE&keywords=21v+power+supply&qid=1684048808&sprefix=21v+power%2Caps%2C192&sr=8-9

I plan on just keeping the Nobsound one

On 5/8/2023 at 7:18 AM, mariushm said:

 

You'll probably be fine with AWG20 or AWG18 wires (~ 0.75mm copper diameter). Even thinner wire will probably be fine, considering it's just a few feet / meters of wire.

 

I would suggest TE's M12 connectors, the 4 pin versions support up to AWG22 wires (which is thinner than awg20 or awg18):

 

female : https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/T4110002041-000/6679504

male : https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/T4111002041-000/8537345

 

Big long PDF that presents M8 and M12 series : https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?&Action=srchrtrv&DocNm=1-1773701-8_M8M12_CONNECTOR_SYSTEM&DocType=CS&DocLang=English&DocFilename=ENG_CS_1-1773701-8_M8M12_CONNECTOR_SYSTEM_0914.pdf

 

Connectors are rated for up to 250v , up to 4A per pin, which is plenty. 

 

That amplifier won't do 50w per channel with 12v.  It uses TPA3116, here's the datasheet : https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tpa3116d2.pdf

It can do 50w 4ohm BTL mode with 21v input voltage, not 12v.  BTL means one chip combining the two channels into a single mono channel, so only applies if that amplifier uses two separate TPA3116 chips , one for each channel. 

 

With 12v, with a chip configured in BTL mode, you're looking at maybe 15 watts before the distortions go over what's reasonable : 

 

and if that's not clear, there's another graph ... go right to 12v and up to blue line, and you can see it barely does 15w with 12v input : 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh wow!  Thank you for pointing this out!!  I'll take a look at those connectors.  

Is there any way possible I can feed the amp the proper 21v input?

I'm currently using the amp and feeding it into Voicemeeter Banna where I'm able to set an EQ so I can cut out the highs and it works pretty well.  But now that you point out that I am under-powering it, I would like to get the full potential out of my gear if possible.

A link to a power supply to do so would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!

I want to add that I originally had this subwoofer amplifier but it did NOT power the shakers very well at all even though it advertises 100W max.  I thought this would be a better route since it would cut out the highs for me.  But I returned it and got the Nob sound one instead as it actually the one that almost every youtube tutorial recommends...  I would like to feed it 21v to get the proper performance/less distortion if possible though!

On 5/8/2023 at 7:27 AM, johnt said:

I will add to my previous comment that I am not fully sure I understand why you’re adding the complication of an aviator connector and a 4 conductor wire… Do you have two units that you plan to place right next to each other? I think banana plugs and traditional speaker cable will serve you just as well here.

 

Also, the claims from that little amp are bold. I wouldn’t be surprised if you don’t end up underutilizing the kickers bc the amp can’t really keep up. I suppose distortion doesn’t matter here, but overloading this amp is your biggest issue here.

I know, my use is a little unique.  But yes, I want two sets of speaker wires to run two bass shakers.  The aviation plugs do this neatly as I can run all 4 cables in one run.  On top of that, the connection is secure and I can easily un-connect them when I want to hide the cable. 

The bass shakers are being used on my office chair, so when I'm not gaming/movie watching I can tuck the cable away for a cleaner look.

I'm running this amp to power this bass shaker.

The amp is 50W x 2 at 12v 5a

I'm using these aviation connectors because they can carry 4 signals in one connector and they're screwed onto one another to eliminate any chances of them coming disconnected by accident.

I am in the process of making my own quick detach cable so I can hide away the cables when not in use. I want to run 4 speaker wires in the same cable seen here. I need clarification on the thinnest gauge I can use.

Thanks!

I'm using a projector placed behind the projector screen to be viewed from the opposite side.  This results in me viewing the reversed image.

How would I "unreversed" the image?

My input device is just my PC

2 minutes ago, Levent said:

Possibly due to ports on the card and lack of DSC support for that generation. Which card is it exactly?

https://www.newegg.com/gigabyte-geforce-gtx-980-ti-gv-n98twf3oc-6gd/p/N82E16814125803

My just got his new AW3423DWF but is stuck with his 980ti until he's able to get his hands on a 7900xtx.  Monitor won't let him go above 100hz while using the full resolution of the pannel.  Is he limited due to his old GPU?

Thanks

10 hours ago, Dedayog said:

You going to run a 1440p UW on that 970?

No, I really need to update that.  I currently have a Titan X Pascal, but I plan to upgrade to 7900xtx on December 13... hopefully.... lol

Hello,

I currently have a 16:9 1440p monitor and I'm looking at getting the aw3423dw 21:9 monitor.

What kind of a performance hit can I expect now that I will have to power the extra horizontal pixles?

To keep things simple lets say that I get 100fps on my 16:9 1440p monitor, what would you estimate the frames i'd get on a 21:9 1440p monitor?

Is it as simple as doing some basic math to just get an idea?  The ultawide has about 34% more pixels than the 16:9.  So I could expect ~66fps (if i was getting 100fps before)?

Or am I just overthinking it, haha.

Thanks!

6 minutes ago, Morgan MLGman said:

That is true. Anything above a 3080 or a 3080Ti will be bottlenecked by your CPU in CPU-demanding titles, unless you game at 4K. A 5800X3D is a worthy upgrade for gaming, but only if you have a significantly faster GPU than what you have now.

Ahhh.  I don't really plan to go higher than 2k.

Seems like most of the new GPU's will be better than the 3080 so looks like I may need a better CPU.

Thanks!

1 minute ago, evilmedic said:

If you are set on getting a 4090.   Get a 4K 144 Hz or 4K 120Hz OLED first.  You will surely notice that over the CPU upgrade.

This isn't a bad idea at all!  Me personally though, I don't upgrade GPU's very often so I kinda look at is as future proofing for a long time hopfully.

I mainly game and do some occasional video/photo editing.  Someone brought up that I may be bottlenecked if I get a 4090 or AMD's equivilent upcoming GPU with my current 3800x.

After seeing a comparison video.  I'm extremely surprised and kinda in disbelief that the frame increase from the 3800x to the 5800x3d is so large.  (up to 150 more frames in some games) Video

Curret settup is;

1440p 144hz

Titan X Pascal (plan to upgrade soon)

3800x

On 10/6/2022 at 2:20 PM, Abyssal Radon said:

Budget, resolution, desired fps targets? Also your current build? I mean buy whatever you want lol.

1440p 144hz

Current build is:

Titan XP

Ryzen 3800x

16gb 3600 MHz Corsair ram

850watt PSU

A few games I'm looking to play,

Cyber punk

COD MW2 (2022)

Tarkov

Star Citizen

Budget really isn't really a limiting factor here, I just would like to see what people would recommend when it comes to all the new cards coming out, Nvidia, Intel, AMD.  I've been Nvidia for the past 10 years so it's all I really know.

On 10/6/2022 at 1:29 PM, NaClKnight said:

This is akin to asking "what car should i buy?" with no.context or details

 

What games are you playing?

What frame rates do you want?

What's your budget?

What does the rest of your build look like?

 

most people fall into the RX 6600-6750 XT range, but you may decide that you'll settle for nothing less than 4k resolution at 120fps or something

1440p 144hz

Current build is:

Titan XP

Ryzen 3800x

16gb 3600 MHz Corsair ram

850watt PSU

A few games I'm looking to play,

Cyber punk

COD MW2 (2022)

Tarkov

Star Citizen

Budget really isn't really a limiting factor here, I just would like to see what people would recommend when it comes to all the new cards coming out, Nvidia, Intel, AMD.  I've been Nvidia for the past 10 years so it's all I really know.

On 10/6/2022 at 8:21 AM, Dukesilver27- said:

People need to give more information when asking advices. 

What resolution? Target fps? Types of games? Existing parts list? Budget? 

If your build is written on the signature, you need to upgrade the whole rig, period. 4790k with a 4090?

1440p 144hz

Current build is:

Titan XP

Ryzen 3800x

16gb 3600 MHz Corsair ram

850watt PSU

A few games I'm looking to play,

Cyber punk

COD MW2 (2022)

Tarkov

Star Citizen

Budget really isn't really a limiting factor here, I just would like to see what people would recommend when it comes to all the new cards coming out, Nvidia, Intel, AMD.  I've been Nvidia for the past 10 years so it's all I really know.

With all the new GPU's coming out, what would you suggest to go with and why?  Or would you suggest getting an older card (maybe used) like a 3080/90 as the prices of those cards are coming down.

I'm also strongly concidering a 4080 maybe even a 4090 but I've heard that Intel and AMD are supposed to release new cards that may be a good competitor/option.

1440p 144hz

Thanks!

Looking to invest in a audio settup for my garage to listen to music. (Speakers and Amp)

I like bass, so speakers with some decent lows would be great! 

It would be nice if the amplifier had built in Bluetooth, but if not I could always get a dedicated Bluetooth adapter.

Budget is around $225 give or take for a pair of speakers and a amplifier.

Thanks! :)

After many years of wanting to get into FPV, i'm finally doing it. :)

As a FPV newbie, all this new information and terms are very overwhelming.  Let me know if my shopping list is missing anyting.

Please leave any input/suggestions!

Shopping Cart

Radio:

• RadioMaster TX16S

Radio Battery:

• RadioMaster 2S 5000mAh (I plan to charge this by using the radio USB charge port)

Goggles/Antennas:

• Skyzone SKYO4X
• MenaceRC Antenna Pack

Goggle Batteries/Charger and Battery Case:

• 18650 Batteries
• 18650 Charger
• Eachine Battery Holder (I like this one because it has reverse polatiry protection built in)

Starting Quad:

• Mobula 6

1S Battery Charger:

• BETAFPV 1S Ph2.0 (Open to suggestions)

What i'm mainly concearned about here is getting a good 1S battery charger.  I chose this one becuase it has good reviews and it comes with a wall plug.

Any input/suggestions are welcome!  I'm very exited to start placing my orders :)

Thank you.

19 hours ago, GDRRiley said:

basically every other camera has that feature from like 2016 onwards

I'm not really convinced it is.

16mp is really not good in 2020. it lacks the 24-32 I'd expect in this price range in 2020

its got bad autofocus

it over sharpens jpegs

4k video at 100mbs is lackluster

 

its a sidegrade more than a proper upgrade.

you need a bigger budget to really get something better than the t3 for photos and video while it has increased in bitrate on may of these lower end isn't really there. you want 150-200 on the low side for 4k

What camera would you consider an upgrade compaired to the T3 if my budget were to be increased?