specialistHUN

It's my landlord's and I have complete access to it - including admin password. It's a modem+router unit provided by the ISP (Arris Touchstone TG3442DE).

Hello everybody, I will try to remain brief: I moved in to a new rented apartment that has internet/wi-fi - a fast one with 1 Gbps. My laptop refuses to work properly on this network. It keeps dropping the network, disconnects and does all kinds of errors all the time quite randomly and with varying intensity making it an extremely weird and annoying situation. Sometimes it works normally for hours with no issues. Sometimes it disconnects and reconnects in every minute. The network drops for a few seconds then it reconnects, only rarely does it stay offline for more than 20-30 seconds. Sometimes it says that it's connected to the wi-fi but it doesn't detect internet. Sometimes it completely loses the wi-fi and I can't even see it in the internet settings among the available networks. If I use the Windows network troubleshooter it always detects a different problem, then fixes it - only to have it return in a minute. The most common errors it detects are related to not having valid IP configuration or something DNS related. Sometimes it says that I'm just not connected to any networks. Sometimes when it works, during browsing it randomly refuses to load a page with a variety of errors: ERR_NETWORK_CHANGED, ERR_CONNECTION_TIMED_OUT, ERR_CONNECTION_RESET. The internet download speed is quite slow 30-50 Mbps. The weird stuff: On this same wi-fi network my own cellphone is working perfectly without any problems and with high speeds. On this same wi-fi network my friends' cellphones and laptops are working perfectly without any problems and with high speeds. My laptop works perfectly on any other wi-fi network (at my parents' house, at friends' places, on public networks and on my phone's hotspot). So for me it seems like that for some whatever reason my laptop refuses to function on this one specific network connetion whilst it it works well on any other and the same network connection doesn't cause any problems to other devices. Obviously this makes any browsing or streaming extremely annoying and online gaming is impossible. What I've done so far: Countless reboots and power-downs both on my laptop and on the internet modem. DNS cache flushes Release and renew IP address Change network adapter priority Complete reset of Network and Internet Settings Buying a new wireless network card (the old was slow AF anyways) - didn't help Hours of Google searches - I'm a complete nincompoop when it comes to networking My laptop: ASUS X451U OS: Win 10 Pro - 22H2 (Build 19045.2311) Wi-Fi card: Realtek 8821AE Wireless LAN 802.11ac PCI-E NIC Any ides what causes this problem? What other info do I need to share to better understand the problem? Thank you for your help! Cheers, specialist

Well, to anybody still listening here: we double-checked the saved data and everything is fine, no corruption, after this, my friend threw out this faulty SSHD and got himself a 1TB 3D NAND SSD, so he's set up quite nicely now. Thank you everyone for the input.

Had him take a screenshot. He also noted that the power on / off cycles didn't change since yesterday so I suspect something might off there. For reference, I checked my laptop which shows 12985 cycles in 165 days, his brother's shows 132010 in 2 years. Maybe laptop hard drives are just this special... He saved about 40GB worth of personal data yesterday, all seems to be intact, he didn't notice anything missing or getting corrupted. As for physical damage, I'm unsure. He doesn't remember any major bump or anything like that, he mostly uses his laptop at home. I know that last year one of his fans died but that got replaced immediately so I doubt a possible overheating could've caused it.

Thank you all for the input! However, I believe that 65k on/off cycles are still too high for 2 years of operation. His default settings were 10 mins off battery and 20 when plugged in. I've just checked the settings on my desktop and this feature is also enabled for me (and I assume it has been for years) yet I have much lower on/off cycles. Since September last year I got a second SSD so at the moment I'm only using my HDD for mass storage, no apps, which means that I don't use it that often. I'll keep an eye on my HDD to see at what speed my cycles increase now that my HDD is used less frequently. I told my friend to increase that value to something much higher in the meantime and we'll look up probably a 1TB SSD to replace this dying piece.

Hello everybody, a friend of mine has an Asus gamer laptop (i7 + 1050Ti) which he bought a little over two years ago. The laptop's storage solution is a 256GB m.2 SATA SSD and a 1 TB 2.5" SSHD. Today he approached me with a problem that mid-game, his game crashed and his whole system locked up. Eventually he managed to close the game, only to realize that his entire Drive D was missing from Windows, and most of his apps weren't working. A reboot managed to fix the problem but his laptop is acting weird ever since, and now that he's paying more attention to the laptop, he can hear that the drive is making some weird noises when spinning. I assumed from the get-go that his SSHD might be failing. I had him download HD Sentinel to have a look at his drive condition and as the attached image shows, according to the app, that thing is barely clinging on to life. Obviously I immediately recommended him to start saving all his important files to pen-drive. Naturally, the laptop's warranty expired in November last year. What I don't understand is the number of starts / shutdowns of that SSHD. Apologies for the UI being in Hungarian but I believe you can get all the data regardless. The app shows that in 268 days of operation, that thing was powered on / off 65535 times which is insane and (if the data is correct) it could've caused such degradation. What could've caused this? Did a controller or something die? For comparison, my 5 years old WD HDD's start / stop count was 2828 in 889 days of operation and it still has 100% condition according to HD Sentinel. Did anybody see anything like this? Does this seem abnormal only to me? Do Seagate's SSHD's die this fast? Is maybe HD Sentinel's data wrong (never had issues with that app before though)? What I'm worried about is that if something's wrong with the laptop, then even if we get a new drive, it might kill it with time. Any ideas / experiences are much appreciated! Cheers, specialist

My friend reported no thermal related problems, but he has a Noctua cooler.

I came to a similar conclusion that maybe a delidding would help. I know a guy who has the tools and does it so I will send it over. Even if ultimately something else ends up being the problem (other than a broken CPU lol), a fresh tim would only do good. I bought that cooler 5 years ago but it never crossed my mind that the paste could expire in that tube. To be honest, my i5 3570k had the same paste on since then, I never got myself to replace the paste as the temps remained pretty much the same throughout the years. When I got the tube out two days ago, the paste coming out seemed fine, it didn't separate or look watery etc. and when I removed the cooler from my i5, the 5 years old paste was still spreadable. But next week I'll go and get some newer, better quality paste just to be sure. I also took a picture of the paste spread yesterday after I removed the cooler the first time, assuming that I didn't install it correctly. I'm far from an expert but this doesn't look bad to me, correct me if I'm wrong though. I used Linus' uncooked grain of rice method and tightened the screws in a cross pattern.

Yes and yes. I already remounted the cooler twice, everything seems to be alright, the paste is spread out evenly in a nice circle. And both the BIOS and Windows picks it up as a 4790k. Yet I keep coming back to the cooler. I've just noticed something. Even after letting the AIDA stress test run for 10 minutes and technically boiling my CPU at 100°C, the cooler is blowing out cold air and the heatpipes are cold to the touch, even close to the socket. So something seems to not transmit the heat properly, but I checked out the cooler twice already, it's mounted fine, it's firm, the screws are tightened, there's no wiggle, no play to the thing, it's seems to sit flush against the CPU. I really can't wrap my head around it. All I can think of that maybe the CPU's own thermal compound gone wrong? Maybe I should delid the thing? It's driving me nuts because this is the second day that I can't use my computer because of this.

I reset the bios settings, did everything short of a CMOS clear. And as I wrote in the thread, I have a CM412S with an Arctic F12 Pro PWM fan.

Hello everybody, my best friend just upgraded his computer and decided to give me his old hardware because he knows that I can't afford anything new for my PC. I know that the 4790k is an outdated chip (just watched Steve's new video on it) but it's still an upgrade to my old 3570k, low-end Z75 mobo and 8GB of RAM, plus it was for free, so why not install it? Next to the CPU itself, I got an ASRock Z97 Extreme 4/3.1 motherboard and a 2x8GB Corsair Vengeance Pro 2400MHz DDR3 kit. After installing this "new" hardware, I did a few system stability tests and it quickly turned out that my CPU is overheating. After 5 seconds of AIDA64 CPU stress test, my temps jumped up to 100°C on one core, and about 90-95°C on the rest. The test reported 4-8% thermal throttling and my CPU core clock was staying anywhere between 4 and 4.2 GHz with some split second dips to 3.8-3.9 GHz. IIRC 100°C is below TJ max but I didn't want to cook my new, much appreciated hardware and stopped the testing after 5 minutes. I started to look at my idle temps which were quite high as well, about 40°C sitting on the Windows start screen and oddly about 55°C when I'm in the BIOS. The temps will start slowly creeping up by one degree at a time after 15-30 minutes. My CPU cooler is a Cooler Master 412S with the stock non-PWM CM fan replaced by an Arctic F12 Pro PWM that has quite an aggressive fan curve (I wear headphones, don't care about them sounding like a gas turbine). It ran my old i5 3570k (non-OC) at about 30°C idle and 55-60°C whilst gaming (never did a 100% load stress test though). My friend has a NH-U12S which allowed him to run this same CPU with an all-core 4.4GHz overclock at ~70°C. I know that the 4790k is a hot chip and my CM412S has worse performance than my friend's Noctua, but I still find my temps unrealistically high. I was looking at quite a few forums and CPU/cooler tests and it seems like that even the Intel stock cooler performs better than my cooler. A CM Hyper 212 EVO, which has comparable performance to my cooler, reaches about 85°C on a stress test according to one of the reviews I found. I thought that maybe I installed my cooler incorrectly so I removed it, replaced the thermal compound (the one CM included in the box), re-installed the heatsink, no change in temps. Then I repeated this again, this time also reinstalling the cooler's back plate because I read on a forum that an incorrectly installed back plate might cause issues, no change in temps. I removed my Arctic PWM fan and added CM's stock "silent" fan just out of curiosity, no change in temps. I removed the case's side panel for better airflow, no change. My ambient temp is 22°C. I started to mess around in software, I put my fans on maximum speed, no change; I put them on auto, no change. I started to look around the BIOS to see if maybe something's wrong there, but the only setting I changed after my friend reset his BIOS before giving it to me, was enabling XMP. The BIOS is running the latest "beta" version 1.71 that was released back in 2018 as a fix to Meltdown. All the core clock and voltage settings are on Auto, nothing has been touched. I get the following readings in BIOS as per the H/W Monitor: CPU Input Voltage: +1.792 V CPU Vcore: +1.048 V CPU Cache Voltage: +1.232 V System Agent Voltage: +1.112V CPU Analog IO Voltage: +1.168 V CPU Digital IO Voltage: +1.208 V Based on my search these are pretty much the standard values on this chip. Disabling XMP didn't change anything either. So to sum it up, I believe that my CPU should not run this piping hot and other reviews seem to confirm that, but seemingly there's nothing I did wrong and all of my remediate actions were unsuccessful. My last idea is to buy a better cooler, but I'm not exactly full of cash. I was looking at the Cryorig H5 Universal, which according to some tests should handle even a medium OC on this CPU, but I'm still finding it hard to believe that my current cooling setup is this inadequate (especially when the stock cooler seems to perform better based on other forum threads and tests). Any idea what could be wrong or what else should I try? My main concern is that what if I spend 50-60€ on a new, better cooler and get the same problem. I know that the CPU worked just fine a month ago in another system... Any help is much appreciated, thanks! Regards, specialist

I need to look into something cheaper...170€ is simply impudent.

I've been waiting for this mouse to come out since its first reveal. In the meantime my current mouse is dying on me (half of the buttons aren't even working anymore ). What really bothers me that there are barely any updates on these stuffs, apparently they were announced for November 2015 then Q1 2016 and what now? If this think won't come out in like a month I'll have to go for the Corsair Scimitar...seeing the price it would cost me half as much anyways what the hell is 140€ in a mouse?

Hey, I've built a new PC for my grandma (for internet, some movies, light Windows Movie Maker editing) and after the building I proceeded to Windows install. Here I have to admit that I wanted to install a pirated Windows on her PC because she didn't have the money for a clean Windows. I already had a pirated Windows 8.1 burnt on a DVD but I wanted to try Windows 10, I was like: If it works, huzzah, if it doesn't then install the good old Win 8.1. So I downloaded a pirated Windows 10 Pro x64 and burnt it to a DVD. After this I put the DVD into the DVD ROM of the new rig and it immediately told me to press a button if I want to boot from the DVD. I did so (just like so many times before), I got into the installer and I did the usual things. I set the language and added the partitions. I used my old 500GB Seagate HDD that was 1st my primary drive with Win 8.1 on, the it got replaced by an SSD and I used it as secondary drive, finally I added a WD Blue 1TB and this drive went to a temporary retirement. So with everything done the installation has started and after a couple of minutes it finished and I got the message that the system will reboot to continue the install. But after the reboot it didn't continue with the usual personalization settings but reseted everything and threw me back to language selection. Well I tried it again, I checked and my partitions were the same but I couldn't install windows, I got the message that "Windows cannot be installed to this drive" no matter how I deleted or reformatted my drive I got this message. I exited and checked the BIOS, everything seemed good, but I pressed the Load Optimized Defaults again just to be sure and restarted the progress. I could repartition everything again and finished the install one more time but it was the same thing: back to language settings. After this I tried manually booting up from the DVD drive 1st and then after the restart from the HDD but it was all the same, no matter where I booted from after the install it threw me back to the beginning. If I dismounted my DVD I just got the message that I should mount a proper boot drive. At this point I thought that this is some Windows 10 related glitch so I just pulled my trustworthy pirated Win 8.1 CD out (that I used for Windows install at least 20 times including to that 500GB drive like a year ago) and started the same thing. No difference, it did the same thing with Win 8.1. At this point I was really confused and just picked some old 200GB SATA II drive but the results were the same. I really don't know what to do I assume I'm missing something from the BIOS but I think I've tried everything. First I didn't really set everything just loaded the optimized defaults and enabled XMP plus made sure that AHCI is enabled. I tried setting up the boot sequence differently, or by pressing F12 and doing it manually but no change. Any ideas what am I missing? I've build like a dozen PCs already and I never had issues with Windows installation. Please help! Specs: - Intel Pentium G3260 - Gigabye B85M D3H - 2x2GB Corsair Vengeance LP 1600MHz - Seagate Barracuda 500GB

I don't have a bathtub at home and I don't have the budget to get one. If I put it under my showerhead whould it cool the PC properly?

Hey! I have an i5 3750k with an Asrock Z75 Pro 3 motherboard. Sofar I've been using the stock cooler which well got the job done but it's really loud and during gaming I get temps around 70-75°C which is probably not to good over a longer term. So I've decided to replace it with something more capable. I have the budget of 12.000 HUF which should be around 40 USD however I can spend some extra if needed. I was looking at some aftermarket coolers and the CM Hyper 212 Evo seems like a great cooler but I've seen some other nice ones. Most notably the CM Hyper 412S which has about the same price and for me the design looks almost identical aswell but I like the looks of the Hyper 412S better. Does this perform better/same? Or what's the difference? Other coolers I saw in about the same price range ( + - 5$) are the Arctic Freezer 13 Limited Edition, Be Quiet Pure Rock and Thermalright True Spirit 120i. For bit more money (at the very edge of my budget) I saw the CM Hyper 612 Ver.2 and the Thermalright True Spirit 140 Power. Would one of these be a better solution instead of a 212 Evo? Another question is: I've seen some Arctic fans on 40% discount, the F12 Pro PWM and the F12 PWM Rev2. Would it be worthy to replace the stock fan of the original cooler with these and like strap a second one to the other side in a push-pull config? Which of the above mentioned heatsinks support 2 fans and which have the mounting hardware for it? Thank you!

Yeah I just checked it. I bought it because it was really cheap due to a discount. I didn't even think that this might be the problem. Thank you for enlightening me! I'll get a new one immediately. Can you recommend me something with good quality? I thought about this: A-Data DashDrive Elite UE700 64GB AUE700-64G-CBK.

Hey! I've just got a new(ish) PC with a mobo that supports USB 3.0. I became really happy since I'm transferring big files all the time and I couldn't wait to get a high transfer speed. So I've just bought a USB 3.0 pendrive in the local store. It's a Kingston Datatraveler Mini 3.0 32GB DTM30/32GB. I pluged in today and I just got shocked. My transfer speed was 12-16 MB/sec. It's even worse than my 2.0 pendrive. I started to look for solutions. I look at my mobo drivers. I have an AsRock Z75 Pro3 and Win 8.1 x64. I saw on the official site that there isn't any USB 3.0 driver for Win 8.1. I tried to install the Win 7 drive but I couldn't it wasn't compatible (as expected) then I looked at Intel drivers but nothing. I read that Win 8.1 uses some own driver but I'm not sure. I tried to delete the drivers in the DeviceManager but it didn't work. Basically I've tried everything and nothing worked. Any ideas what could I do to get better speeds. I tried both my mobo I/O slots and my case's front plugs. No difference. I have both SATA II and SATA III HDDs too but it's the same speed. Any help please?

So if I go with the XPG SX900 I won't get disappointed right?

Okay I'll pass the Kingston. Then let's say either ADATA or Samsung. Those have the biggest capacity. Could you describe this problem a bit more detailed please? Will it be fixed or something? Btw. will I have to do something with my mobo to make it recognize the SSD? I have an AsRock Z75 Pro 3. The BIOS is P1.40.

Hey! I want to get a SATA 3 SSD in the 240-256GB region for about 120$s (33000 HUF). I was looking for some already but I couldn't decide between some of them so I'd need your assistance to help me find the best "bang for the buck". I'd love to get the most reliable with long lifespan. Here are the ones I found interesting: - Kingston 2.5" SSDNow V300 240GB SATA3 SV300S37A/240G this is the cheapest available for already ~103$ (27830 HUF) with 3 years warranty. But I'm not sure if the cheapest is the best -Kingston 2.5" HyperX Fury 240GB SHFS37A/240G available for 121$ (32730 HUF) with 3 years warranty. This looks faster than the V300 with 500MB/sec write/read instead of 450. -Intel 520 Series 240GB SSDSC2CW240A310 available for 119$ (32140 HUF) with 3 years warranty. Well it's Intel so if it's as good as their CPUs then it's probably good. -Crucial 2.5" M500 240GB CT240M500SSD1 for 120$ (32480 HUF) with 3 years warranty. It look OK too but it has only 250MB/sec writing speed although I'm not sure if it matters a lot. -SanDisk 2.5" Ultra II 240GB SATA3 SDSSDHII-240G-G25 available for 124$ (33445 HUF) with 3 years warranty. A local shop owner told me that it's really good. -Samsung 840 EVO 250GB SATA3 Basic MZ-7TE250BW for 124$ (33590 HUF) with 3 years of warranty. This looks like the best deal a lof of people like it but I'M not sure completely. The speed looks great though. 540/520 reading/writing speed. -A-Data 2.5" XPG SX900 256GB ASX900S3-256GM-C for 132$ (35840 HUF) with 3 years of warranty. This is the fastest one with 550/530 reading/writing speed. Plus according to the description it's ADATA's best SSD series plus I read something that it's flash memory chip thingy is the best. So please help me decide! I'd like to put my OS on it and some games like Battlefield 4, War Thunder. If it matters I have an i5 3570k with 8GB of RAM and R9 280. Win 8.1 Have a nice day!

I've just pluged it into my dad's laptop,does the same thing. So it just broke after a week? I can't believe it but it has 12 months warrantee so should I return it? Isn't there a way to completely reset the onboard memory?

Hey! The title might be misleading but actually I don't know the problem. About a week ago I bought a new keyboard to replace my old 7 years old one. The old is a Chicony KB-0108 and the new is an Ozone Blade. This new keyboard was working completely fine until today afternoon. For some reason it went crazy and when I press some buttons they do something different than they are supposed to. I realized this issue when I was trying to type my password and I couldn't get in. I really don't know how to express myself but the problem is that when I press 9 on the numpad it writes +9. When I press 6 at the top number row it writes 6-. Or when I press the left windows key it doesn't bring the start menu up,but mutes/unmutes the system. If I press num lock the num buttons work as the arrow keys and when I press 9 it writes a +. I've deleted the driver,reinstalled it,didn't work. Then I unpluged the keyboard,deleted the driver and then deleted every temp file with CCleaner. When I pluged the keyboard back Windows started to install the driver again I thought that it will work,but it doesn't work. Now I'm using my old keyboard that works completely fine. I have hungarian language enabled and my keyboard uses hungarian buttons too. What can be the problem? I use Win 8.1 Pro x64.

Hey! I'm planning to build a gamer PC and I got a bit stuck at the perfect mobo. I'd like to buy one for around 130$. I'm planning to put an i5 into it and probably overclock it. So I'm looking for an LGA 1150 Z97 mobo. I was bowsing some and I've found these ones,all of them look decent for me but probably someone smarter than me can recommend the best one. The ones I've found: -ASUS Z97C -Gigabyte GA-Z97X-Gaming 3 -Asrock Fatal1ty Z97 Killer -MSI Z97-G55 SLI -MSI Z97-G43 GAMING By the looks I like the MSI mobos the best and I've heared that ASUS makes overall nice mobos,but to be honest I like it the least by looks. But looks is only a small thing I can accept everything if it's the better. So from these what would you recommend? Also if there's one that isn't on the list then tell it too. Thank you!

Okay...I solved it...it was the biggest facepalm ever. For some reason the Nvidia Experience set the resolution to 1366x768 144Hz...and I got 60Hz screen. Then I've just realized that for some reason in the BIOS the Advanced Clock Calibration was disabled. So with enabling that (getting a quad core instead of a dual) and setting the proper resolution I get 80-120 FPS while playing on Ultra settings... Thanks to all of you who were that kind and tried to help me I really appreciate it. Have a nice day!