theKumba

3 minutes ago, fasauceome said:

The Fractal Design Focus G mini should work

Sadly it's too tall.

Hiho everybody, haven't posted in ages, but since I'm currently in the middle of upgrading my system, I thought I'd ask for some advice here.

Some background first: Moving into a new, tiny apartment for university and I simply don't have the space for my Be Quiet Dark Base 800 anymore. What I'm trying to do now is to put my pc into the shelf that's standing right beside my desk (IKEA Kallax). Since I'm upgrading my CPU I also have to get a new Motherboard, problem being that I'm somewhat budget constrained and the cheapest mini ITX board I can get is twice as expensive as a half decent micro ATX board.

What I need, but can't seem to find is a case that fits both a micro ATX motherboard and a roughly 170mm long PSU inside a case that's not wider and taller than 33cm. It should also fit a GPU at 300mm length and optionally a CPU cooler at 160mm tall. The price should, if possible, be below 60€. The rest doesn't really matter.

I already thought about using a test bench, but all the ones I could find were 100€+, and I'm not 100% prepared to pay that price for a sheet of metal with some screws in it. 

Thanks in advance

I'm sorry to have to break it to you, but there's no way for you to upgrade to iOS 9. The oldest iOS version you can upgrade to is 10.3.1, which might be jailbreakable in the next couple of months, but who knows. If you decide to do that you better do it quickly, since this version could be unsigned in the next few days.

The reason for this is that Apple unsignes all their firmwares a couple of weeks after a new version was released. The only way to bypass this is if you have an SHSH2 blob of the version you want to up-/downgrade to. To get those you would have had to have that iOS version installed on your device at a time when it was still signed, though.

I personally don't understand why Apple is doing this, but nobody can really do anything about it.

1 minute ago, pyrojoe34 said:

OK that's good. I only tried AIDA64 and HWINFO but if you don't turn off monitoring on the AIO and change a setting in them they fight Link for control on some Corsair AIOs and the you can hear the fans fluctuate a bunch (almost fried one of my CPUs during a stress test because the fans/pump were giving out).

 

A good way to test is to set the fan speed to max in Link. If they stay at a steady 100% then there's no issue, if they fluctuate a bunch then there's an issue. Then change the settings back to your fan curve.

That sounds way more entertaining than it probably was, but definitely good to know.

But I have to say that I didn't experience anything alike. Of course the fans were hovering around the set rpm, though I guess that this is to be expected.

3 minutes ago, pyrojoe34 said:

Are you running AIDA64 or HWINFO? You have to change some settings for them to play nice with Corsair Link or the fans and pump will not work correctly.

I was using HWMonitor and corsair link, as well as the MSI command center to monitor everything, while stress testing with heavy load. I believe that as long as the sensor readings weren't wrong, the pumps, as well as the fans were running at the correct rpm.

2 hours ago, TiberiusMoon said:

that cooler has a 5 year warranty

Holy...

Thanks for telling me, seriously. I would have probably thrown it out if I didn't know that.

Just submitted a support ticket.

I'm now officially fed up with this now most likely completely broken piece of cooling equipment.

After getting close to 100°C after not more than half a minute put the intel stock cooler and ordered a Noctua NH-D14.

Thank you for the help, but I guess it was all for a dying aio water cooler.

19 hours ago, airdeano said:

for the sake-of-science, flip the fans to intake and retest. with/without roof panel installed.

With the fans turned the other way I the temps are hovering at about 70°C with the cover off and 77°C with the cover on.

15 hours ago, TiberiusMoon said:

new tim made it worse? what tim are you using and what method of application did you use?

 

the h100's have had alot of issues in the past there was a time OCUK were selling them cheap as they were refurb's,

also i hate AIO's because you cannot clean the loop, for all we know a bit of plastic has decitergrated and circulating inside the pump.

 

you could uninstall the AIO and while holding the block and rad firmly shake the whole AIO to shift any possible blockage.

 

I'm going to give it a try. I did give it a try and it made the whole situation a lot worse, once more. I now get idle temps of just under 60°C.

About the tim. I am not really sure what tim stands for, but I'm assuming you mean thermal compound. 

I'm using Arctic MX-4 Thermal Compound and I applied it by putting a little bit of it on the middle of the CPU and then applying the cooler. From the looks of it, it did spread evenly.

8 minutes ago, airdeano said:

radiator fans are drawing air into the case or blowing through the radiator as exhaust?

Blowing out, through the radiator.

21 minutes ago, airdeano said:

pictures?

There you go.

The attic has about 4cm of clearance, while the radiator takes up a little over 2.5cm of that. So there's only less than 1.5cm left for the air to flow.

One thing that worries me though, is that even with the top and side panels off I only get down to ~45°C in idle and marginally under 70°C when stresstesting, which still seems quite high to me.

So maybe the top cover wasn't the problem after all?

On 9.9.2016 at 3:50 AM, airdeano said:

sounds like there is nothing errored in the AIO, that the CPU just is not cooperative in the thermal area.

one last item to look into is the H100i mod:

 

remove the backplate, install 4mm x 8mm o-rings to space the thread bung away from the mobo, this will apply a firmer clamping force to provide a tighter surface-to-surface contact to the CPU IHS and cold plate of the pump/controller of the H100i.

I did just that yesterday, but it didn't really change anything at all.

But I think I figured out the problem.

It's my case. The clearance from the radiator to the top part of the case is only a few centimeters,which takes airflow to a somewhat non existent level.

Hopefully this won't hurt my CPU in the long run, but right now there's not much I could do about it.

The spot the radiator is in right now is the only one I can put it in. All the other spots are for 120/140mm radiators only. 

I would definitely make good use of a Blade Stealth.

There's always a use for a potent ultrabook in a high school student's life, considering that my current laptop has problems compiling a console application without the processor maxing out.

14 hours ago, Monte_Carlo said:

I'll skip it aggressively.  Might look at a slim for remastered games, but the lack of UHD blu-ray playback is a deal killer for me.  If I'm gonna run a console on a TV, I'd love to get rid of as much clutter as possible.  Xbox One S does 4k blu-ray playback, and even does games.  

 

tl;dr: No.  I don't think the PS4P is a worthy upgrade.  Maybe a good entry into the console market?  Then again so is the Xbox One S.

I think at this point a Playstation is the far more logical thing to have (at least for people who own a gaming pc), since Xbox exclusive will in most cases mean Xbox and PC exclusive.

4k bluray would be nice to have, but it's not a must for Sony to include it, considering how many other things ps has going for it.

The frequent sales on the ps store for example. 

5 hours ago, swordsman247 said:

It will play games better at 1080p then the ps4 but 4k will be upscaled mostly I think(even though it supports the output...) which is what the ps4 does now with games it can't run at 1080p native. It will be better but not sure by how much. I would still get one if I didn't have a ps4 already.

This. Plus the better performance on psvr. 

The whole system with the vr headset and the tracking camera is 50€ cheaper than an HTC Vive alone. (at least where I live)

And I can now finally play all the exclusive titles that I was never able to play before. Especially with Microsoft releasing a lot of exclusives to pc.

Amazing times we live in. 

2 hours ago, airdeano said:

when the temps are high, the air coming form the radiator exhaust is cool, warm or hot?

After some time of gaming the air is pretty hot, but it usually is cold if under load for less than 30 minutes.

1 hour ago, airdeano said:

verify the pump rpm through the UEFI/BIOS. if less than 2200rpm, then you are having pump issues.

I did, and it's running at a little over 2400 rpm.

1 hour ago, airdeano said:

how long does the temperature spike to 95° under load from a normal idle? 1min? 2min? 5min?

Surprisingly it doesn't anymore, at all. Also, it is now going down to ~45° in idle.

After 15 minutes of 100% cpu load, it spiked at 85°C. It took around 1 1/2 minutes to get there from idle temperature.

While doing this, the cooler temperature never went above 60°C though.

Recently my CPU temps have gone up further and further. Right now they are <95°C while stress testing, which I think is not exactly where they should be. 

I already gave new thermal paste a try, but it somehow even made it worse.

So the thing that bugs me the most about this is that even when the CPU and the watercooler show high temperatures, the air that's coming out of the top of the pc is quiet cool. 

Does this mean that the coolers pump has broken? (Though it does give rpm readings in Corsair Link)

I'm using an Corsair H100i, purchased ~June 2014

Thanks in advance.

When I play graphic intensive games, like the Division for example, the game crashes after a couple minutes or an hour at most. The same thing happened in Titanfall and to some extent in WoW (it doesn't fully crash, but freeze for a couple of seconds). I've already tried everything that was said to help on the Ubisoft forums and the Division's subreddit. Nothing seemed to help.

Also, none of my components are overheating. My GPU is running <70°C and my CPU is currently running at ~80°C under heavy load. (Watercooled, but the thermal paste seems to have gone down the drain. Replacment is on it's way)

All the overclocks I had were undone and it still didn't change anything.

Closing close to all background applications also didn't change anything.

Specs:

Windows 10 64-Bit

i5 4670k (currently not overclocked)

Zotac GTX 780

MSI Z87-G45

2 x Seagate Barracuda 2TB HDD and a Samsung 840 evo 250GB SSD

Corsair semi modular 750 Watt Gold psu

I hope I did this correctly and you guys can help me out at least somewhat.

This guy (or possibly company) is a acutally pretty smart.

The first time I noticed him he had a hijacked account of some woman with ~30 ratings. Back then I was interested in one of his Oculus Rift's for less then 500€. I emailed him to be at least somewhat sure that he wasn't a scam and as a result of the short mail chat we had I can now 100% confirm that this guy is a scammer. If you send him an email with a link to a product you get an answer with a link to an external payment site. When I asked him how he could provide these products at such low prices, while still making a profit his answer was (in really broken German) "these are my prices". 

The people that buy his stuff directly over Amazon will never get their stuff and can easily get a refund of their payment, but the people that wrote to him via email get a link to a seperate payment site. These are the people that he is acutally making money off.

Pretty interesting to see, especially because he got banned several times now and he is still coming back. Also, the accounts he uses get more and more legit. The account he had yesterday had a couple of thousand positive reviews and an acutaly company name of an actually registered company. 

AppCleaner to uninstall apps you didn't download from the Appstore and maybe some essentail things like Lightshot, Skype or Dropbox for example. The Twitter program from the Appstore is pretty great too.

It depends on what you want to use it for.

Yes, they've done what they were expected to do : improve hardware specs.

 

Still, the IPhone 6S only has a 1715mAh battery, and it has almost the same PPI and resolution as my old Galaxy S3. D: Live Photos are glorified small videos, and 3D Touch is nice but not extremely useful.

True. But still, do you actually need a higher resolution and a bigger battery? I certainly don't and if you do, please just use an Android phone. I don't even know why you would debate whether to use Android or iOS. Every phone has it's pros and it's cons.

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&es_th=1&ie=UTF-8#es_th=1&q=apple%20stock

 

Look at me, I make statements about things I know nothing about. 

 

It would have taken 5 seconds to google that. 

? I didn't really talk about their stock.

I mean of course there's the everlasting comment of iPhone buyers being complete idiots, but I think this shows that those new features are acutally pretty great. I think Apple could become a fairly great company again, after their down since Jobs died.

Definitly the new round Pebble Time. It's the only smart watch I'd count as good looking.

Games like Guitar and Band Hero or Rockband are still worth playing if you are into that kind of stuff/have friends to play them with. Also the Halo games are pretty playable if you like shooters on consoles.

If you are more into racing games get Forza 4. In my eyes it still looks great and is playable for racing pros as well as casual racers.