mortino

The best advice I have to offer is do what I did for my last build, I have a fully tempered glass case so I can't use a controller let alone with supplementary power so I hooked all my case fans up with 3 pin molex splitters. 1 molex plug and however many fans you have splitters. If you don't want that you can always get a powered pwm controller.

3 pin fans do not always run at 12 volts, 12 volts is the max speed, they are regulated by the pot which changes the voltage, that's how you get your varying speed. Again just a guess but some sort of safety implementation is your problem. If I recall correctly 3 pin fan headers are good for 0.5 amps not sure about 4 pin pwm, they are a bit less simple even if you are only using the 3 pins on them.

3 pin fan headers are literally just straight voltage and are controlled with a pot, simple as it gets for a dc circuit. 4 pin fans are pwm which is pulse width modulation and require a microcontroller. Far more complicated which is why I am assuming it is some over voltage protection for the circuit. Your fan controller itself actually has this function so it could be that.

lol somewhere, wonder where the might be ha.

Does the controller use a molex plug, if it does it is supplying the supplementary power needed. If this is the case I'm guessing your controller lacks a pwm chip and is just a passthrough.

Try watching it with her.

The pin header probably can't supply enough voltage 3 ways, generally you only split them 2 way or you can burn out the header from overvoltage and you are probably getting the result of some over voltage protection.

Either a troll or in denial. It's 2018 dude everyone watches porn and nobody cares. I'd go win7 without question in that case. Win10 has a couple modern features win7 doesn't but It hasn't affected me negatively yet except for dx12 only games which if I want to play I just use my laptop.

Obvious troll account. I still use windows 7 on my desktop, win xp is unusuable with modern hardware. I only use windows defender and I use shady sites all the time. I run malwarebytes like maybe once a month and every 6 months I install an antivirus and do a virus scan, never have anything show up. The only real downside of not using windows 10 is lack of dx12.

I've used thermal paste long past the expiry date and it still works great, I wouldn't worry about it unless it comes out of the tube with chunks in it.

Depends what is shorting out but if the board is at least relatively modern I'd say it probably fine, I've seen boards short more times than I can count and most of the time they are fine once the short if removed. Modern hardware is so idiot proof these days.

CPU bottleneck for sure.

Could be windows 10 background b.s. that it does or it could be that riser cable, just because it's not a cheapo one doesn't mean it's perfect. Issues with riser cables are well documented.

At the bare minimum pick up 2 WD Reds and raid 1 them, the couple hundred bucks is well worth it. Personally I'd get a 3rd drive to keep at your house and do a weekly backup or maybe even monthly if you can't be bothered.

That's weird, I have the same laptop(migh tbe a slightly different spec and I don't even think I've ever heard the fans go above barely audible and it's never even felt warm to the touch. That being said I use mine for gaming mostly and maybe the odd bit of rendering.

Ha, as I was typing, glad you got it figured out, cheers,

I think windows7ge is on point what is the secondary medium you are transferring to or from?

That I agree with that totally 8k chips were hot but also 30 watt TDP higher so like 30% more power. Also I have to make a correction because apparently I made some changes since last time I looked in the bios, something must of become unstable. The overclock is 5ghz or rather 4980mhz, x20 multiplier, 249 FSB, 1.39v (1.42v is the stock turbo boost voltage), 1.7v on the ram and the ram speed is 2988mhz with wide open timings. That's crazy. I run my fx6300 system with a 1050ti and my 7700k system with a 1080 with all the peripherals and monitors(4) and a 14000 btu air conditioner on the same 15 amp fuse 24/7. There is nothing special, it's a 95 watt TDP chip, it has a big single tower air cooler and a 80+ gold psu. the mobo is a UD4 I think with some glass fibric crap, I did manually replace some capacitors though to better higher quality japanese caps when I accidentally messed some up when my system used to be in a very small case with almost no clearance. 95Watt TDP ya the cores are weak but they are old and overclock like crazy, I had a 3700k around the same time I bought this chip and OC'd to 4.8(3700k) they were basically the same(in games) from my experience.

It's just a zalmon single tower cooler, it's pretty big but but nothing crazy. My voltages for that overclock are actually lower than the default turbo boost voltage by a lot.Idling at 33 degrees right now with the fan as low as it goes and it's 41 degrees outside today so inside is pretty toasty too. Don't know where everyone thinks all this power and heat is coming from, I don't even pull 325 watts running prime95 and furmark at the same time, I don't have a meter on me but at 325 watts my PSU fans turn on.

I have 4 systems and one is an fx-6300 running at 5.1ghz and ram is 2999.97, in games at alll resolutions I only see like a 20% from my 7700k at stock with a 1080, trying to figure out why people shit on fx chips so bad when they are very viable for gaming. There isn't a game today you can't run on at least high with an fx chip.

Just take the tray with all the caps in it and shake it back and forth a bunch of times

I have a membrane keyboard for my HTPC, It's a pain in the ass but I take it completely apart and wash it in the bath tub, obviously making sure I don't submerge the circuit board.

Torrent it, just make sure you don't grab one that is pre-cracked or something or else you might not be able to use your key.

There is no realistic way to judge how long a gaming computer will be relevant for, game makers make games based on current tech, so what software capabilities are out there and what kind of hardware there is to run it, if intel and amd come out with crazy amazing 10k times performance gpus and cpu's next year, another year after that there will be games that won't run on even the highest end gaming pc today. Your current setup is fine for gaming today at least at 1080p 60fps but if you aren't hitting your desired framerate of 144fps+ you need a cpu upgrade, like I said in all the games you listed the 1060 is capable of 144fps at 1080p.

First off, get your board off that towel immediately, put it on top of your motherboard box, static isn't as big of a concern as it used to be but it is still very real and can fry components. Remove and re-apply that thermal paste put your cooler back on, remove the ram and re-seat it aka put it back in, I would reset the bios as well just for good measure, you can do so by using the jumper and turnign on the computer for 10-15 ish seconds and turning off and moving the jumper back or by removing the cmos battery for 30 seconds to a minute, or if you have a dedicated button that is even more ideal, which this board just very well might as it's a higher end board.